Have a 91 Exp 4.0 v6, has a no start problem only in the cold weather. Last year, replaced coil pack, fuel pump, crank censor, this winter...same problem. Just will not start when it is cold. No codes, no ck engine. Checked it today...it has no spark. What could cause this? Fuel filter has also been changed. told him to ck crank position censor connector.
View 7 Replies1991 Ford Explorer XLT, 4X4, 4.0L push-rod motor, 315,000K
Problem Part 1: Excessive fuel consumption
Codes for O2 sensor, system lean, some black smoke, unburnt fuel smell, some slight hesitation when accelerating from a stop
I replaced the 02 sensor, replaced the IAC, cleaned the MAF, replaced the coil pack, replaced the plugs, replaced the plug wires, replaced fuel filter, replaced air cleaner, replaced the PVC valve changed brand of fuel, checked tires and "brake binding" - NOTHING. Truck ran "fine" other than excessive fuel consumption. I decided to replace the fuel pressure regulator and before I could get to the parts store we have...
Problem Part 2:
Truck begins to lope along like there is one bad cylinder. It sometimes "fixes" then comes back (all this over a period of 3 days).
Day 4 it's dead - no start.
The motor cranks, the fuel pump "pumps" 3-5 secs KOEO fuel line is clear, return line is clear, filter is clear. There is fuel at the Schrader valve (do not know pressures) and the electrical system seems OK (sparks to all 6cyl). I believe the crank position indicator is OK because the CEL is on KOEO but goes out when cranking. I have no codes because I needed to remove the battery to re-charge. Fuel pump fuse is OK.
Only other information that may (or may not) be relevant is that lately it is slow to heat up. It does not come off "cold" (for the last 4 days). Maybe it's the thermostat or temperature sending unit? Maybe it's because its -30C here. It heats up fine if I block the airflow across the radiator (the old carboard solution).
I have not checked the relay. Where this unit is on the 1991? Don't say fuel pump.
Its a 1991 Toyota celica with the 1.6 and 5 speed trans. the motor on cold or hot start up shakes really bad and has a lot of valve chatter. Along with that, the motor does not want to rev at all, almost like you are not even touching the gas, but you have it to the floor. A little back ground on the car is, the car sat for 6 months and i bought it from a friend to drive back and forth to work to keep miles of my supra. He said that the CAT was plugged so i replaced it. I have replaced the coil pack, distro cap, spark plug wires, spark plugs, rotor button, catalytic converter, air intake, and all the air tubes that looked like they were cracking. Now I can start the car, and it does the same thing. I thought it may be out of time, just because that is sort of what its acting like. I have had the motor rev up 3 times since i have had the car. But everytime I do it back fires and DIES, the car will not start til after the car cools down.
View 2 Replies1991 Buick Regal, 3800 V6
As the title says, when I start the engine cold I get a slight puttering and drop in RPMs followed by the engine revving itself to about 1100 for a few seconds and then normalizing at 600. It has only actually stalled out a few times. This does not happen once the engine is near operating temperature.
Now, I did not notice this issue prior to doing some maintenance on the vehicle (radiator replacement and transmission service) and I've read that this can be caused by a faulty coolant sensor. Possible?
Battery is new.
Also, when I say cold start I mean summer temps here in Michigan. So it's happening anywhere from 50 to 90 degrees F.
My 1991 Acura Legend LS does not start in cold weather and in the morning. Once it does, it keeps on starting and runs great. Prior to catching and starting it rattles and shakes and when I press the accelerator, it makes sounds like it is not getting enough air. The problem occured abruptly after a mechanic tried to find out why the radiator fan does not come on. That has been fixed by putting a new relay. The car has 176,000 miles and has never given starting problem before.
View 6 RepliesWhen it's cold outside my car will start up, but not stay running. The only way I can get it to stay running is to keep my food on the gas for up to five minutes. Once the vehicle is warmed up, it stays running. If I start it every hour or so, it will run fine. It's just when it's been sitting out in around zero degree weather overnight for example.
View 4 RepliesI have a 1999 Explorer with a 4.0 engine and when it gets cold it has trouble starting. It will click for a while and then start, but when it is warm I have no problem starting it.
View 3 Replies'99 Explorer 5.0 doesn't want to start in the cold weather, below 30. After it finally starts it runs great and will start all day. It cranks fast but it doesn't get driven every day.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2002 Explorer with 147K that makes a chirping sound when I start it and the engine is cold. So far I have replaced the serpentine tension-er and the water pump. After about 10 minutes of running the noise stops. With the belt off the idler pulley spins freely. It does have the original power steering pump.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2000 Explorer W/4.0 SOHC engine. With summer nearly over and fall on the way, I need to figure out what is going on with my engine. This problem has been going on for the past 2 years. As the outdoor temperatures get cooler, the harder it is to start and keep the engine running. This starts happening around 65 ambient temperature, and gets worse as the temps drop. By 30, I can barely keep the engine running.
Odd thing is, all I have to do if the engine starts is, keep my foot on the pedal to keep the engine around 2000RPM, put it in gear and start driving. After about a mile or two, the engine runs normally, and will do so the rest of the day. So far I have cleaned the air flow sensor, replaced the IAC, replaced all the injector "O" rings, and cussed a lot. I smoke tested the engine and the only vacuum leak is a very small one at the EGR valve.
I have a 1997 explorer sport 4x4 4.0 sohc It has a real tuff time with cold starts sputters won't hold and idle sits at about 500 rpm once its warm its not as bad still has a low idle.
Also i have a constant engine rattle thinking left front cam tension-er
Also throwing and check engine light odb scan tool shows o2 sensor position two is bad
I was thinking intake gaskets and new tension-er is a good place to start.
My power steering pump in my 05 Explorer 4.6L V8 is starting to howl it's displeasure on a cold start at near zero temperature. It doesn't do it when warm.
I thought I would change the fluid but the owners manual says to use Mercon ATF, but Ford now sells Mercon V as power steering fluid. It also warns not to mix the two kinds.
So, which one should I use? And, which way to change it, siphon pump the reservoir and replace with new a few times, or let the pump pump it out and replace as it goes?
I have a 2005 Sport trac, just recently, I started my truck and my check engine light was on and my trip counter and odometer went blank, not off, just dashes going across the panel. I recall noticing that my rpms were a little high. I turned off the truck and restarted and after a few minutes it came back to normal. Check engine light went off and my miles were displayed again.
A few days later, it happened again, except this time the rpms were normal, just the dashes and check engine light. I happened to have an obd II with me and I immediately scanned it for any codes. NONE. Few minutes later, back to normal. Scanned again, NOTHING. Its been happening more frequently now, every time i turn on the truck when its been sitting for a while. Like I said, it takes about 3 minutes or so and it goes away. Nothing unusual happens during this time. Motor sounds fine and runs smooth.
A friend who is a mechanic told me that it could be a ground cable for the COIL? that could be loose or damaged? He said its more than likely a ground because it happens when its cold and takes time to warm up and goes away. That if it was a hot it would happen all the time. I have searched online for something similar and have found similar problems but no exact match. I just changed the motor about a week ago. I had problems with the timing chain and broken oil pump.
Due to the amount of damage, cost and time to repair and amount of miles on the truck (180K) I decided id be better off putting in a new(used) motor with 67K miles in half the time for labor. I dont think this makes a difference though, because the first incident happened about a week before the truck broke down and the second about two days before. So Im guessing that the change of motor has nothing to do with it.
My 1991 Explorer 4.0 4x4 overdrive not working, so far have checked ohms on sensor at trans and it appears to be ok. Also looking for the pinout of PCM under passenger kick panel to see if voltage is being output to the sensor at trans.
View 1 RepliesAnyway I have a friend with a Mazda Navaho. 1991, 5spd transmission
It jerks intermittently, and sometimes quite severely. Myself, and 4 other ASE mechanics, and 1 "old ford guru" are stumped. We know we have ruled out the clutch for sure....
We think It started when my friend put a clutch in it. He did not have the flywheel turned . When we looked at it, we were all convinced this was the issue....drive test and dumping the clutch in and out at cruising speeds could replicate the issue. However, he had just bought the truck, and it needed a clutch, however the jerking we think was happening before, but we didn't know as we couldn't drive it till we put the clutch in it.
So we re-did the clutch...had flywheel machined, and got a warranty replacement clutch just in case, and put it back together.
Same issues. so we checked, and tested.
1. Fuel pressure test- passed, no issues
2. Checked fuel regulator for leaks - none
3. Checked for and found no vacuum leaks-none
4. Swept, and actually replaced (3 times) the TPS -is working fine
5. Replaced the MAF - Thought we had it, as we disconnected the MAF and jerking seemed to go away instantly...however few days later jerking returned, and driving with MAF unplugged still jerking.
6. Replaced Ignition Module, checked coils, plugs etc...actually replaced plugs and wires as well
7. Disconnected Transfor case plug to make sure it wasn't the issue as well.
I really don't know what else to check. The motor runs fine, the trans shifts smoothly...the clutch is new and was done correctly. I run a small auto shop, and we have access to Mitchells, All-Data, and Identifix....all were no dice. It seems you try and research jerking and hesitation all the hits come up for Auto trans and Torque converter lockout issues. This truck is a 5 spd .....
I have owned many Aerostars back in the day (loved em, same 4.0) and I have never seen this
The jerking is random and intermittent...symptoms would be similar to a small child flicking a light switch on and off rapidly when it does it. power, no power, power, no power, and rapidly...it feels like someone herky jerking on the clutch but we have ruled that out....its definitely electrical.
Also, and naturally, even though it is Obd I we have checked and there are no pending nor stored codes....PCM thinks everything is hunky dory. No backfiring, no smoke, no misfires....runs like new except this perplexing issue.
I just got a '91 Explorer. It has no brake lights at all. I've checked all the fuses and everything's fine there.
What's the next thing to look at? I can't say I've seen this problem before.
I just bought it off my friend yesterday and I noticed the back door doesn't lock, the glass part doesn't either. How I could fix it?
View 7 RepliesMy voltmeter (91 Explorer) bounces with loads, i.e. when sitting at a stop light with the brake lights and turn signal on.
Revving the engine up doesn't seem to work. What does this indicate? Bad battery? Bad alternator or voltage regulator?
I'm fixing up my 1991 Ford Explorer Sport. I've replaced door panels, handles, center console, seat upholstery etc... I'm now looking for a replacement headliner. I've already checked LMC without any luck. Also my windows will not roll up/down even though the electric window motors are working. I can push and pull the windows up and down by hand while pushing the corresponding direction on the door control so it seems the mechanism is just slipping against the window. What exactly is this mechanism? what do I need to fix this problem?
View 3 RepliesThe colder it gets the harder it takes to start my 2000 Ford Explorer. Have read that it's the Intake Air Temperature Sensor.
View 3 RepliesAt highway speeds above 60 mph on a smooth road, the vehicle runs fine. But if the road has any bumps at all, even small ones, it starts to vibrate very fast as long as there are bumps. The steering wheel almost becomes a blur. It's like it's going into oscillation.
The wheels have been balanced and rotated. The movement the steering wheel is not side to side, like I have experienced with imbalanced wheels.
The shocks look fine and I am told that they are OK by the tire dealer . I have never had this kind of a problem with bad shocks. The vibration is just too rapid.
Before I take the truck in for the mechanic to inspect it, I would like to know what the problem might be.