I have a friend with a 96 4.6 4x4. He tried to put a new starter. He couldn't figure out how to get it out! So I got called out. I can barely get under this dam thing. I'm lost on how it comes out. It stuck by oil pan and front diff housing. It not much that I'm stuck by 1/4" at most.
View 3 RepliesI now purchased a 1997 Ford F150, I bought it with the past owner saying it needs a transmission but it drives nice until I get to about 35mph, at which point it feels as if the front diff is stuck in 4wd and it shakes violently, I have read other forums and was hopeful that it was the transfercase issue where you take the transfercase motor off and turn it into 2wd manually and it didn't seem to change anything, it sounds like it is trying to change from 2wd to 4wd high and then to 4wd low, but it doesn't seem to sound like it is actually changing anything, the turning on dry pavement does change after switching it but it still shakes and feels like the front end is keeping it from being in 2wd, as I have done very little work on Fords, in the past and I do like the feel of this truck and would love to fix it myself and not take it to someone to have it fixed.
View 6 RepliesHow hard is it to replace the front diff cover seal in an 03? Mine is leaking like a sieve... On a better note, it's the only leak I could find under my new-to-me Explorer.
Also found a broken coil spring in the rear, explains why it's leaning to one side. That is getting fixed later this week.
I am trying to remove the center console in my 1996 explorer limited 4x4 4.0 liter v-6 . Is there some type of trick or hidden fasteners? I am trying to replace the heater core.
View 2 RepliesI just acquired a 2007 Ford explorer. I'm in the process of changing all the fluids and am wondering if there is room to pull the front differential cover off to clean the gunk out of the bottom of the front differential. It looks tight and I'm wondering if the differential or the steering rack and pinion need to be removed to remove the cover or if there is just enough room?
View 1 RepliesI thought this might be a little difficult but it wasn't at all. Simplest door panel that I've ever pulled off.
first remove the panel that goes around the door handle, gently pry it up in the front where the speaker grill meets the panel, use a couple of flat head screw drivers for this. It will pop up once the tabs are released, then you can remove it.
Then remove the window/lock control panel, the front of this will need to be gently pulled up and then you can remove it by sliding it forward. Don't pry up on the rear or you can break the tab off. Unplug the three wire connectors/plugs. A small flat head will work with this.
Remove one 7mm screw behind the panel that you just removed, then remove the two 7mm screws on the very bottom of the door panel.
Now simply lift the door panel straight up and then outward, remove the last wire connector for the power mirrors & it's off.
I also replaced the outside door handle & lock assembly. It was very easy as well. just a 12mm socket, 1/4" drive ratchet & small flat head screw driver.
I have a 1996 Explorer with the 4.0 motor. Today coolant started running out between the Freon compressor and the block at the front left corner. I cant see behind the compressor. Compressor hose seems to be short and stiff so removal of the compressor is questionable? I look from the front and does not seem to be thermostat or temp sensors. It appears to be behind that, like the bottom of the intake manifold? I wonder if there is a known problem in this area or how to go about disassembly. Don't want to take off compressor and steering pump if the problem is intake manifold. Have a problem ? Where to start disassembly to look?
View 6 RepliesI have a 96 explorer 4x4 that i just bought and it has wheel shake. It also has a slight noise coming from pass front. So i jack it up and there is zero wheel play. I spin the wheel and it spins kinda freely until about 3/4 away around then it has some resistance to stop the wheel. Im thinking that could maybe a rotor a lil warped but not sure. Same wheel there are wires showing on the inside. Now i try the driver side and i cannot spin that wheel it has resistance all the time. So could this be hub or maybe just bad tire?
View 12 RepliesMy Wife's Explorer rear diff grinds after long highway driving. around town, it never happens, but on long trip, once you start a turn you can hear and feel the grinding coming from the rear end. it is 4wd
View 3 RepliesProblem on early 2001 Sport Trac 4X4. I don't have the whining but a clunk when I go over bumps. I jacked up the left side and I can pull the rear wheel in and out maybe a 1/32 and I hear the clunk so I'm sure the loose rear end is the problem. How do I go about fixing it? New/used rear end? Mine is a 2001 (drum rear brakes)...
View 3 RepliesI have a 1996 Ford Explorer (4WD model). Approximately 4 months ago I had a new set of tires put on it, and in the process of replacing the tires the shop noticed that I had a bad ball joint and one of my wheel bearings was going bad. They said the ball joints were known for completely failing, but the wheel bearings usually didn't, so they recommended that the ball joint be replaced first. That is what I had them do. I haven't had the money to get the wheel bearing replaced yet. This past week it got worse to the point where I can hear it now.
At low speeds I can hear a grinding/rattling-type noise from the front drivers side (that's the side that has the bad wheel bearing). At higher speeds the grinding/rattling-type noise fades away due to road noise, but I can still hear a humming-type of noise that is a bit loader than normal - this noise just started a couple of weeks ago so I'm suspecting that this might also be related to the bad bearing.
I won't have the money to get this fixed for another 2 weeks. In order for me to have the money in 2 weeks I will need to continue working at my job 2 days a week. It's approximately 2 hours round-trip from my home to my job. Obviously with the bearing sounding significantly worse I don't want to drive it any more than I have to, but the only way I can get the money to fix it is to keep driving it back and forth to work.
Here's my question. What risks am I running by continuing to drive this? Am I running the risk of the wheel falling off while I'm driving down the freeway at 70 mph? Am I likely to experience other damaged parts in that area of the vehicle?
Any success story on converting 2003 or 2004 f350 with leaf spring front end to the 2005-2007 f350 coil front end is it possible?
View 8 RepliesHow to remove the entire headlight housing? I want to pull it off and open it up for there is some condensation inside the lens. I just need to know which screws and stuff to remove.
View 4 RepliesMy '96 ranger, 4.0, auto transmission has developed a coolant leak. It is at the rear of the engine, passenger side, at or just above the bell housing. I can't quite see where it is leaking from even using an inspection mirror from on top or underneath. The engine runs great. I just finished replacing the power steering pump, ac compressor, dryer and hoses. What is back there? Freeze plug? Do I fear the worst and that the head or block warped? I may drill a hole from the passenger compartment to try and get a better view.
View 4 RepliesThis problem started in Jan this year and got worse through feb, got it checked in march to find out it had metal shavings and chucks stuck to the magnet. Ive searched the forums for the last few weeks but noticed no one seemed to point out if you can drive it while its like this or is this a recipe for disaster. other than the droning/whining the car will fight me will going in reverse while turning which has happened twice. Need to get the whole rear diff/haldex replaced....
View 7 RepliesMy explorer with 4.0 sohc is starting to leak fluid out of the thermostat housing. How hard is this to do and what can I expect in cost to do it myself. I dont drive this explorer but about 2 miles each way to work as I live on a military post. I have been putting it off ( just keep adding coolant and water) every couple of days. I have noticed that the engine temp doesnt not get up to half way like it use too. Maybe 1/4 of the way on the gauge now. I have always flushed coolant system very two years. It is starting to get some rush in the overflow bottle now too. Other then that she runs good and no other engine issues. She does have a 136k on her.
View 7 Replies2000 Explorer: on the drivers side is what looks like a vent hose coming off the axle housing. Is it a vent and why??
View 3 RepliesGetting a chirping noise coming from (i think) the bell housing. a few small chirps at start up, then constant after about 1300rpm, eventually gets high enough and drowns out behind the exhaust that i cant hear it.
Possible flywheel issue? I've uploaded a video to try and illustrate the issue. 1996 ford explorer XLT 4.0.
Just replaced starter a few weeks ago, but this problem was happening before. I dont know if it was as prominent and got worse, or if im just now noticing it and focusing on it.
1996 Ford Explorer bell housing chirp. Flywheel? - YouTube
Front diff does not leak but seems to get alot of oil coming out vent hose. enough to make a mess and require more top offs.
View 4 RepliesI have a pretty good leak coming from the front of the rear diff. is this a common problem on the 10.5 ? How hard are these to do without a lift? I still have warranty left but will have to swap out exhaust so its almost a toss up whether I do the seal myself. Also was considering a new posi unit because seems like the original is about toast, might be a good excuse to swap a new one in. 2009 with 95,000 on it. Bought it a year ago with 70,000 on it, the rear was dry till at least 90,000. I serviced the fluid at about 90,000 and didn't have a leak so now a couple thousand miles and its gushing???????
View 7 RepliesI have a 2002 F250 SD 4x4 w/5.4. I drained the front differential gear lube and refilled with 2 qts of gear lube as specified in my owners manual. Actually the manual says 1.8l / 3.8 pts. The fluid level is not up to the fill hole and if I stick my little finger in the hole I can barely get any on the tip of my finger. The owners manual says these capacities are for F250/350 w/ Dana 50 axle. It then says F350/450/550 capacity as 2.7l / 5.8 pts with a Dana 60 axle. My question is should the fluid level be up to the fill hole, as with the transfer case and rear end levels? Could I have a Dana 60 with the higher gear oil capacity in my F250? Whats the proper gear oil level?
View 4 Replies