Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: Shutters At 35 MPH / Front Diff Is Stuck In 4wd?
Aug 5, 2014
I now purchased a 1997 Ford F150, I bought it with the past owner saying it needs a transmission but it drives nice until I get to about 35mph, at which point it feels as if the front diff is stuck in 4wd and it shakes violently, I have read other forums and was hopeful that it was the transfercase issue where you take the transfercase motor off and turn it into 2wd manually and it didn't seem to change anything, it sounds like it is trying to change from 2wd to 4wd high and then to 4wd low, but it doesn't seem to sound like it is actually changing anything, the turning on dry pavement does change after switching it but it still shakes and feels like the front end is keeping it from being in 2wd, as I have done very little work on Fords, in the past and I do like the feel of this truck and would love to fix it myself and not take it to someone to have it fixed.
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I have a friend with a 96 4.6 4x4. He tried to put a new starter. He couldn't figure out how to get it out! So I got called out. I can barely get under this dam thing. I'm lost on how it comes out. It stuck by oil pan and front diff housing. It not much that I'm stuck by 1/4" at most.
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Any success story on converting 2003 or 2004 f350 with leaf spring front end to the 2005-2007 f350 coil front end is it possible?
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Ok, I was reading the one on the V8s, but not sure with the V6s. First off, let me tell you what has been done. I replaced fuel and oil filters, Plentum seal, and bolts, replaced plug wires, and coilpacks, and the PCV valve. I can't remember what else I did, but it was before Spring Break last year when my daughter and I were taking a trip across the US to pick up a motorcycle and do site seeing. Anyways, before I did all of this, the truck was getting to the point where I could not get it over 45 or it would feel like the trany was going. When I pulled the plugs out, they were running lean. I have had my Check engine light pop on with the Cam Pos Sen, but I have replaced that. That code has never came back, but it is still running lean, and backfiring in the intake when leaving a stop. I am wondering if the fuel pump may be going out, or what else it might by. I work on older cars with carbs, so not all that sure with the injection stuff.
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I have a 2001 F-150 4x4 SC with a 4R70W. As a a couple weeks ago the transmission (or so I think) is slipping. When I take off from a red light the truck is shuttering. I also can be driving along at 55-60 mph and the truck jolts and shutters. I was reading some other threads and some guys think it could be a misfire, but since mine does it from a stand still i don't think it is. Just throwing that out there because it could be a factor, but once again I don't know.
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I've got a 2000 f150 with a 5.4 and 135,000 miles. The other day it was driving fine then i stopped and got gas and after that it was boggy and running rough so i thought bad gas but i ran through that gas and got more at a different store. The cel came on i got it checked it was misfire cylinder 1 so i put new cop, spark plug, and injector. Unhooked the battery and then the light came back on so i ran the code and now im getting a p0171. I checked the pcv and sprayed around the intake and vacuum lines. I also checked the pcv hose and elbow in the back and i found nothing its a fairly new hose. So, it does run rough it shutters a lot.
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What the exact part number is for the seal for the rear axle in a 2003 F150 4x4 ?? Mine decided to leak yesterday and so I looked up Ford for the part but there's two .. one is thick and one is not. I don't want to take the seal out first to look because I got no other vehicle to get it and putting it back in and out would be silly.
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How hard is it to replace the front diff cover seal in an 03? Mine is leaking like a sieve... On a better note, it's the only leak I could find under my new-to-me Explorer.
Also found a broken coil spring in the rear, explains why it's leaning to one side. That is getting fixed later this week.
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I have a 98 F250LD, its a Lariat, so everything electric/auto. Shift on the Fly 4x4, 5.4, 188K, Factory rear air suspension. Typical Minnesota rust. Anyway, I just noticed in the last 75 miles or so, a drive-line vibration. There is nothing until 39 MPH. Then from 39-41 MPH there is a decent vibration. Stops until 50, then from 50 MPH up it is a steady vibration. I have already changed the u-joints in the rear shaft. I have pulled/wiggled on everything else I can think of with no luck of finding of anything loose.
One thing I did notice, is that the front axle is locked in all the time. How long it has been like this: years for all I know... I can flip the switch from 2wd to 4H and 4L. It all seems to work fine, I hear clicking, the 4x4 engages, the proper lights come on/off. The front axle will pull when supposed to. The transfer case seems to be working fine, but the front axle won't disengage. I am hoping this can be fixed cheaply/easily (DIYer), and also hoping this explains my low fuel mileage.
Front axle? Where to look or what to try and fix for the vibration?
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This problem started in Jan this year and got worse through feb, got it checked in march to find out it had metal shavings and chucks stuck to the magnet. Ive searched the forums for the last few weeks but noticed no one seemed to point out if you can drive it while its like this or is this a recipe for disaster. other than the droning/whining the car will fight me will going in reverse while turning which has happened twice. Need to get the whole rear diff/haldex replaced....
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Front diff does not leak but seems to get alot of oil coming out vent hose. enough to make a mess and require more top offs.
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My 2003 ranger, 4.0l, 5 spd manual with 295K miles has no power on acceleration. Engine shutters/stalls. The following have been replaced in last 20k miles; fuel pump, plugs/wires, mass flow sensor and fuel filter. Last week left for work and could not go faster than 50 mph. Condition has gotten worse (barely goes past 40 mph).
Changed filter with no improvement.
Checked fuel pressure - constant at 65 psi.
Changed coil - no change.
The tank of gas I put in just before problem was from station with tanker dumping while I pumped. That tank is out of truck; filled from different station. Also put can of seafoam in tank. No change.
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I have a pretty good leak coming from the front of the rear diff. is this a common problem on the 10.5 ? How hard are these to do without a lift? I still have warranty left but will have to swap out exhaust so its almost a toss up whether I do the seal myself. Also was considering a new posi unit because seems like the original is about toast, might be a good excuse to swap a new one in. 2009 with 95,000 on it. Bought it a year ago with 70,000 on it, the rear was dry till at least 90,000. I serviced the fluid at about 90,000 and didn't have a leak so now a couple thousand miles and its gushing???????
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I have a 2002 F250 SD 4x4 w/5.4. I drained the front differential gear lube and refilled with 2 qts of gear lube as specified in my owners manual. Actually the manual says 1.8l / 3.8 pts. The fluid level is not up to the fill hole and if I stick my little finger in the hole I can barely get any on the tip of my finger. The owners manual says these capacities are for F250/350 w/ Dana 50 axle. It then says F350/450/550 capacity as 2.7l / 5.8 pts with a Dana 60 axle. My question is should the fluid level be up to the fill hole, as with the transfer case and rear end levels? Could I have a Dana 60 with the higher gear oil capacity in my F250? Whats the proper gear oil level?
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My 2000 Ranger has been leaking fluid around the front Diff cover so I decided to pull the cover and reseal it. It was obvious that this was going to be a tight job but I didn't anticipate running into a bolt that can't be removed because interference from the front cross member.
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Truck is a 2000 7.3 PSD Exursion, 300k miles, automatic. Does this when cold, I let warm up for 5 minutes before this happened as its been doing it. Going to plug in tonight, was about 40-50 degrees out.
What is causing this shutter? Injectors? After I get off my dirt road to street it runs fine, also notice the ebpv. Seems to do shutter most when reversing.
Does this when cold, I let warm up for 5 minutes before this happened as its been doing it. Going to plug in tonight, was about 40-50 degrees out. What could be causing this? Injectors? After I get off my dirt road to street it runs fine, also notice the turbo waste gate? Seems to do it most when reversing.
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1999 f150 4x4 the wife used my truck and had to use the 4wheel to back the truck up, now the truck is stuck in 4low.
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I have a '97 F150 Lariat Ext cab, 5.4, 2Wd, 175K, a bit rusty but for the most part functional. Unit is parked for long periods of time.
3 - 4 years back the gear shift did not want to go into PARK and and the gear indicator was out of register. Unit would not start and I had to move shift lever to N to start. Fixed the two screws on shift plate/column per this site. Then 18 months ago same thing begin to occur but this time I used blue thread lock to hold screws in place. Still had to throw into park to get it to stay.
6 months ago shifter became very difficult to move and near impossible to get into PARK. When in PARK the interlock must have not been engaged so had to move to N or push lever hard into PARK to start.
Tired of this so I cruised the site and found several posts on taking dash apart, repairing a broken shift tube and or replacing bushings.
Battery disconnected, dash apart, cluster out, steering wheel still on and steering column still in position. Shift tube appears OK, i.e. not broken as in one post, bushings appears OK as there is no play or slop evident, but I cannot get the shift lever to move from PARK, period.
When the shift lever is pulled toward the wheel, a pawl on the tube causes a plastic or nylon arm to move about 90 degrees. It must be a stop or safety of some sort. I have not dug deep enough to see the shift plate with the two screws. At 75 I find it difficult to lay upside down to reach and hope I can get to them from the top.
Questions:
1. How do I get it out of PARK to check all things on shift tube and gear selector units?
2. Does the battery need to be connected for the interlocks to function?
3. Do I need to drop the column to check on shift tube items?
4. With a rusty trans, can the shift cable to trans connection be the problem?
5. What to look for, how to repair. etc.
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1998 f150 4x4 the drivers window is stuck up. It clicks by the up button but not the down button. The pass window works fine by both buttons, the door locks work fine. Took out the switch it tests with a ohm meter fine. The switch has power to it. I took out the window motor jumpered it to the battery and it works in both directions. Manually ran the window up and down and it moves freely. I swapped the relays under the dash and everything operates the same. I'm not sure where to go next for trouble shooting this problem.
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i just purchased an '01 expedition with the 5.4. I was told #5 spark plug blew out. Upon examination, it appears to be #6, second from the front driver side. Anyway, as I was looking, it just didn't look right. There was a spark plug socket stuck in the well, with the plug still in place. How to get the socket out? I can get an extension on it and it will turn, but it's tight. But I can't pull the socket out.
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Well I was trying out my four wheel drive today and it worked fine until I went to turn off switch, it would not cut off it is a 98 F150 switch is located on dash. It is stuck in four wheel high!
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