1997 Explorer V8 AWD Codes I have
C1185 ABS power relay output circuit fail
C1102 Acceleration Switch Malfunction, may not apply to AWD
B1318 low battery prob had that issue sometime in its life, currently bat is 12.4 and 14.3 running.
And ABS light is on.
Where to locate the headlight relay for a 97 Explorer Limited 5.0 AWD? Dim lights are not working changed the multi switch and connector but unsure where the relay is.
View 10 RepliesI bought late 98 F-250, 5.4 G, 4WD. OHad to replace the steering flange because they messed up the ignition cylinder and flange. Truck didn't run for 4 years. 249K miles, no history available. Got the engine running, no DTCs. D, 3, 2, 1 barely moved the truck forward but, R hauled butt in reverse. Checked transmission fluid it was good and clean.
Came back to it a few days later it threw a P0720 (output speed sensor circuit) and I have no reverse, park feels like it wants to move, R is neutral, N is forward, D is forward, 3 is forward, 2 is forward, 1 is forward. The N is full drive. I cleared the P0720 code after it came up and it has not returned. The instrument gauges work but the odometer display is intermittent. Linkage? Fluid? Sensor? Wires?
I have a 2007 f150 sport. I am getting a 24 code on the airbag light and I do know that is Sensor output feed/return circuit open. What I do not know is where is this sensor located and what could it mean if I am getting the code...
View 2 Replies1996 izusu rodeo had check engine light on got code for egr valve. Replaced it light when out drove fine all day. Stopped at grocery store came back out would not start ... Will crank over but will not start. did a obg (two) scan get a p1640 output A circuit fault code along with a 1460 egr code ....
View 5 RepliesLet's start from the beginning. I have an 03 f150. After loading it up for a big kayak trip, it wouldn't start. The odo read all blanks and the theft light was blinking rapidly( for about a min, then the "16 code")
Soo I checked all the fuses and relays with multimeter and they all checked fine. Checked all the connections and everything else right in front of me.
Soo this is where I'm stumped. On the pcm relay, I get constant power on the bottom pin. I also get power when the key is on to the right pin. The ground is good(left pin), as I used it for the test.
Now if I jump power from the battery to the top pin the truck starts right up. No theft light, and the odo is fine. So I replaced the relay, even though it tested fine, because that had to be it...right? Still nothing...
Not really sure what that means, or where to look.
I have an emissions test coming up. I have 3 P codes that I'd like to eliminate before then. I don't want to "fix" the issues they are telling me about. Just make the codes go away. I know why they're there I just need to get rid of them.
What I have coming up is:
P0475 Exhaust Pressure Circuit Valve (result of EBPV delete)
P0541 Intake air heater A circuit low (result of aih delete)
P0640 Intake air heater control circuit (also result of aih delete)
What resistors I'll need and where to put them in?
My Sport Trac will periodically fail to start after shutting it down for a short period. It doesn't stall, but won't start after parking for just a few minutes to a couple of hours. I've had it towed twice, but it always starts after it gets to the shop and the mechanic can't find a problem or a code. It has happened 4 times and seems to start again after it sits for 3 hours or more, definitely by the next morning. A fuel system cleaner had been tried and the fuel filter has been replaced, but the problem continues.
View 6 Repliesi have a 2005 Town & Country that now won't turn over. When I just turn the key to the on position (not even to start) the gauges flip around, the odo flashes intermittently as if there's some kind of short, and i can hear a regular, repetitive clicking from an area behind the battery that sounds like an electrical relay of some sort trying to engage but failing. Short history that may be related: I recently replaced the blower motor resistor since the AC blower would stop after about 10 min of driving. (Btw, replacing the resistor worked for a while, then failed again, so something else is going on).
I had disconnected the battery when I replaced the resistor and then 5 days later the car wouldn't start. It's 2 year old battery, so I assumed there was corrosion on the terminal and I had not reconnected it tightly enough. At that time, a quick jumpstart got it going again. A couple days later, it wouldn't start again, would only "click" when turning the key (e.g. starter solenoid). Now, it won't even do that, just this repetitive relay sound and the "short-circuit" appearance on the gauges/readouts. At least it's in my garage!
I have a 2001 5.4 4x4 supercrew with 300,000 miles.. This truck is my baby. Recently when I start it up and after putting it in gear and begin taking off my engine is loud as if I am revving the engine without any indication in the rpms. I want to say it starts out on the trip a tad sluggish. Is there anything I can do to eliminate?
View 1 RepliesGirlfriend got a 98 ex. got a CEL for a torque converter clutch circuit. Changed out the TCC and the light is still on. I don't know what to do next.
View 1 RepliesI got a 97 f150 4x4, 4.6 and I had the shop replace the seal 3 times and it's still leaking, the seal where the driveshaft goes into the t case, I call it the slip yoke seal, they said the bushing inside looks good, there doesn't seem to be a whole lot of play in the driveshaft, it doesn't seem to leak a whole lot, I'm about ready to just forget about it and just run it, they put a seal from oreillys in, it seem to be leaking out of the bottom hole on the seal...
View 8 RepliesI cant find my original post but I am reporting back on a low heat output issue. Not the climate door. It was the heater core clogging up. Instead of replacing, this is what I did. Purchased a "drill pump" and some clear hose and some CLR. Cut both the heater hoses,taking consideration of where best to install "T" connectors.
While hoses disconnected,filled heater core with CLR(as much as I could get in it). Hooked clear hose,drill pump configuration,on to the heater hoses. Ran drill pump in both directions for several minutes and stopping and letting it sit for a few minutes.
About 1 hour all together. Pieces of debris came out of the heater core and I could see it through the clear hose. Flushed the heater core out. Installed "T" connectors and it is heating very well now.
2004 Sport Trac V6. Been having hard shifting and P0715: Input/Turbine Speed Sensor Circuit. Cleared the codes and still returns.
From my searches, readings and looking at the parts diagram. On the newer 5 speeds the sensor is the one on the inside of the tranny. This requires taking the entire tranny apart? Is there an external connector for the sensor that I can check or clean first? Replace this sensor. I know the older ones were mounted on top of the tranny. I think this one is mounted on the inside though.
Where is the signal flasher relay located. I can hear it but can't track it down.
View 5 RepliesI have a 1996 Ford Explorer Eddie Bauer Edition 5.0, the check engine light is on and my code reader gives P0161 and P0155 both stating that the O2 heater circuit sensor is bad. I replaced all 4 of the O2 sensors in the truck, cleared the codes but they still keep coming back. I have tried for a few days now to find something online similar to this but have had no luck. I am not sure what else to do.
View 1 RepliesSometimes after running my 94 Limited, it doesn't want to start - it does crank - like it's not getting fuel. I have found the work around and want to know if it would be fixed by replacing the fuel pump relay.
The symptom is just after starting, it starts to run poorly, and then dies out, then will not start at all. I use to keep trying to start it for 20-40 minutes and suddenly it seemed to work.
It seems the work around is to turn the key to on for about 5 seconds and then turn it off - then it starts and runs as good as ever.
So, is this a symptom of a bad relay? I thought I'd start there because of the cost of the relay is fairly cheap. 1994 Explorer Limited 4x4?
I have a 1999 Ford Explorer with the V-6 SOHC that is stuttering and stalling when I try to accelerate. A very slight acceleration will get the vehicle moving, but anything coming close to normal gas pedal pressure causes immediate stuttering and/or stalling. Check Engine light came on when problem started yesterday.
Where is the EVAP System Canister Vent Solenoid? I bought a code reader after beating my head against the truck all afternoon and got code "P1451 EVAP System Canister Vent Solenoid Circuit Malfunction". My Haynes book says on the left side frame rail... can't find anything along there that looks like it (based on picture from Rock Auto for replacement part) and found some people online talking about it being in the engine compartment on the passenger side...
Just crawled all over the truck and I think I found the charcoal canister, but couldn't trace it back to the vent solenoid... There was something right next to the canister, but again, it looked nothing like the replacement part listed on Rock Auto...
I purchased a 94 Ford Explorer 4x4 4.0L w/ Automatic transmission with Overdrive. Great work truck, but I am finding that these had a lot of wiring problems. First thing that messed up with me is the backup lights wouldn't work. Then the dash lights and parking lights stopped working (Still no fuses where bad). Then about 2 weeks later, I was on my way home when It just died like someone had turned the switch off, I pulled off the side of the Interstate, and after checking my fuses/Relays under the hood.
I found that the EEC Fuse (30AMP-BIG Fuse) had blowed, I didn't have one and the truck wasn't off the road good, So I wrapped a small wire around the fuse to see if I could start it and get it out of the road better, It started right up, but soon as I pulled it off the road it died again, and I found that it melted the EEC Relay, I went to the parts store and got a new relay and fuse and put them in, It blows the fuse as soon as I put it in, with the switch off or on. I just need to know what things will cause this so I can check them out one by one, until I find the one that is causing this problem, cause It run great up till this happen.
Only other thing I may need to let you know, Is when I bought it, the key switch would start it, The guy had put a push button starter switch that you push to start it with the key on, I unhooked it, and it started fine with the key for a while then it stopped again, so I had to hook the push button back up and had been using it until it stop running with me.
I recently bought a wrecked '97 Ford Explorer Sport with 51,000 miles to use as a parts car for my '97 Ford Explorer with 300,000 miles. The two front power windows in my Explorer just go "click, click, click, click..." when I try to use them, and they won't go up or down without a manual assist. The power windows in the Sport worked fine. I first replaced the motor... no improvement. Th
en I replaced the linkage with the flywheel, thinking it might be worn. No good. Then, after watching a video on youtube showing how to replace the power windows, I noticed that a new assembly comes with new tracks, so I replaced the tracks also. No go. I took the old motor and linkage and hooked it up to a 9 volt battery. It works just fine. I greased the tracks but that didn't work. I can't see anything that could be jamming the works. Fixing my windows is one of the main reasons I bought the Sport.
4.0 liter V-6 with only 51,000 miles?
White 1997 Explorer XLT 4 door 4x4 4.0 sohc 220,000 miles. The power windows and locks don't work. I've tried all of them in the whole car and nothing. Replaced all fuses at the inside panel and replaced all fuses and relays under the hood. Replaced master control switch on the drivers side and still nothing.
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