I have a 1998 Explorer XLT with the 5.0L V8. My check engine light has been on and off sporadically for the past two months. Lately, it has been on more than off. I brought it to a local place to diagnose the problem. Both upper O2 sensors are shot. What kind of difficulty level am I looking at if I tackle this myself?
View 14 RepliesI have a 1998 Ford Explorer 4.0 V6 with 200K miles. I plugged an OBII scanner with live data readings and my o2 sensors never relayed any information (voltage), they all ead -100% and the voltage never changed. Could all four be bad? I left the truck running for 15 minutes with the scanner attached and nothing changed.
BANK 1 SENSOR 1 = -100%
BANK 1 SENSOR 2 = -100%
BANK 2 SENOR 1 = -100%
BANK 2 SENOR 2 = - 100%
I've changed the upper and lower O2 sensors the Manifold/Cat and still getting the code. Was wondering if the the valve guide seals would give off this code.
View 3 RepliesI recently purchased a 2003 Explorer. Two weeks after I bought it I found out the motor on the windshield washer water pump was shot. The dealership fixed it for free. About a week after I got it back when I was driving in the morning to work I noticed the check gauge light go on and saw that my temp gauge was pointed at HOT!! I pulled over and stopped immediately. As soon as I slowed down the temp gauge went back down to normal. It happened 2 or 3 more times and had it back at the dealership. They are stumped. They sent it to a Ford dealership and they couldn't find anything either.
They said they have checked everything and it is not overheating. They even put a thermometer on it while they drove it and it didn't get over 205* I am surprised it didn't do it to them because it happens almost every morning. I only work 4.3 miles from my house so its not like I am driving very far. It usually happens at about 3 miles. As soon as I see it going up (and I watch it a lot!!) I take my foot off the gas and start to slow down or barely press the brake it goes right back to normal. Then it stays at normal the rest of the day. Is it the sensor or the wiring or did the do something to it when the fixed the washer motor?
My wife started our '99 Explorer last week and she said that the engine was rattling. I started it up when I got home and it sounded like something had let loose in the engine. We took it a local mechanic and he basically said that the motor was shot. I pulled the codes and it doesn't look good to me but I'm not a mechanic. Codes are:
P0301
P0302
P0303
P0173
I went thru a 100 posts on "Intake gasket" search but I couldn't find any repair information on the 4.0L intake gasket replacement. I'm having difficulty pulling the upper intake off. All nuts and connections have been removed except for the egr tube that's connected to the upper intake.
According to another site, u should be able to just pull straight up, clear the intake studs, turn the intake to the left and then up due to the fact the egr tube is curves inside the intake towards the front of the upper intake. No luck. egr tube won't separate from the intake. This is a little long but everything has been disassembled to this point. BTW this is a 4.0L OHV engine
I can't get the upper rear bolt out the fuel lines are in the way and I have tried wiggling the arm in every direction possible. any tricks?
97 V8 AWD.
Our 2000 explorer xls 4x4 with 4.0 ohv just pop the code for the intake gasket leaking. My question is, would there be any way to tell if it is the upper or lower that is leaking? It has 188k on it but still runs good. I think I can feel a miss in it at idle but it is not a steady miss.
View 1 RepliesI'm in the process of changing my upper and lower intake gaskets. my question is, the upper intake along with the tubing on the fuel rail are caked with oil/carbon, along with the back side of throttle body. What would be the best way to clean them?
View 2 RepliesI replaced the front shock absorbers on my Ranger today and I have a question about torquing the upper mounting nut. The problem I have is that the threaded rod that is attached to the top of the shock turns when I put a socket on there and try to torque it to the proper spec. You can put a crescent wrench on the top of that threaded rod(it has flat spots) and tighten the nut some with a wrench, but the crescent wrench wants to slip and round off the top of that threaded rod. So my question is, how do you torque that upper nut without the shock spinning below?
It's a '98 2.5 ltr., 2 wheel drive with coil springs.
I jumped in my car, started her up, and drove the 10 miles or so to meet up with her on the other side of town. And hour and a half later, I jumped back in my car and tried to turn her over....and nothing happened. I got the normal lights on the dash but no sounds at all - not even the usual "click".
I tried a couple more times before I went back inside and retrieved my brother-in-law, who is a retired truck mechanic, and asked him to take a look at it. He found nothing wrong and even he couldn't get it to start up.
I finally relented and called AAA to tow me to my fav mechanic. Before the dispatcher sent someone out, she offered to run through some troubleshooting stuff with me. She tells me, "Jump in, make sure the car is in park and your foot is on the brake, and give it one more try." And guess what? YES! THE CAR STARTED! It wasn't the normal start - it was silent for about three seconds before it finally roared to life - but at least it started.
So, I rush to my mechanic's place and ask them to give it a check over and make sure everything is okay. (I'm heading up to the high desert tomorrow and don't want to get stuck out there.) They came back a couple hours later saying everything looked fine - the battery, starter, and alternator were all fine. The advised me to keep an eye on it and come back when it "finally dies".
In the past year, I've replaced the fuel pump, battery, tie rods, and a boot. The alternator was replaced about 5 years ago and I've never had the starter worked on.
THE FREQUENCY: This is a condition that has become progressively worse over the last six months. Initially it occurred once a week and now it is happening almost every day, lasts longer and is more acute.
THE SYMPTOMS: Initially and randomly, while driving at any speed, the car would begin to hesitate as if it might stall but did not- The hesitation was much like a shudder or power loss. At this time the check engine light would blink and stay on for a couple of days. This whole event would last less than a minute and the car would return to normal until the next one.
Now, six months later, it is occurring almost every day. At startup, at low speeds, at stop lights.... A LOT!
WHAT HAS BEEN DONE SO FAR: After frequent and unsuccessful visits to the Volvo Dealer all the plugs, the wires, the cap, and the rotor have been replaced with no luck.
The dealer says the code indicates a misfire on the #3 cylinder.
I just replaced the transfer case BW 4405. And I noticed that the 2 sensors (front drive shaft and rear drive shaft) are bad. What is the name of these two sensors? I'm looking for a brand new ones...
View 13 RepliesI've replaced the rear sensor and the two front ones on my 2002 Ltd, but the lights still on! It's driving me crazy...what now?
View 7 RepliesI just noticed that the upper ball joint boots for both uppers are dry rotted and torn! Only 40k miles and the boot falls apart when I touch any portion of it. Is this normal, so much for quality?
Anyway my question is how hard is it to R&R them and do I have time? IOW will the ball joint wear out really fast?
Rust bubbles front of hood both corners, the tranny thing, now the ball joints all within 40k miles. rear glass trim breaks and falls off.
I have a '97 XLT, 5.0 and the error code for the O2 sensors has popped up, when checking it shows there isn't voltage for the heater circuits. I see there are 3 different heater circuits, 1ea for the left & right O2 sensors and a common one for the catalytic converter O2 sensors, so I ordered another PCM.
View 14 Replies1998 Chevy C1500 4.3L V6 170,000 miles
My truck is stumbling and losing engine power sporadically. When this is happening I can usually drive it if I am real easy on the gas and slowly build up speed but if I mash it the engine will eventually just die completely. It has had this problem off and on for several years and now it's back with a vengeance. It always seemed to happen after a heavy rain but now I'm not sure.
Last week I had a mechanic look at the codes and he cleared them saying that once it happened again the code(s) that showed up would be a good indicator of the actual problem. The codes that were there were for a couple O2 sensors, catalytic converter and loss of vacuum I think. It happened again and his shop was closed so I got it read and cleared somewhere else and it was P0131 bank 1 sensor 1 and since I knew that one had come up before I went ahead and replaced it myself.
The next day the CEL came back on without any noticeable engine trouble. That was yesterday, this morning it rained and the problem is back and I went to get the code read and it was the P0420. There was also C0281 stop lamp circuit something or other that was new.
My gas mileage has stayed pretty good this whole time, always 15+mpg. Just wondering if my catalytic converter probably needs replaced, if I should replace other O2 sensors, or if this all might indicate something else in the engine.
I have a 1998 chevy 3500 2wd pickup with a 454 engine. The check engine light is on. I have had the codes read and they were for a MAF and MAP sensors. I have replaced both. The check engine light is still on saying that I have a bad MAF sensor. I replaced it again. The check engine light still is on. What else should I look at to fix this problem??
View 19 Replies98 Rav4 (130,000 miles) starts fine, idles fine, runs fine for 30 seconds then the accelerator no longer has any effect. I can put the pedal to the floor, but there is no gas getting to the engine, it will idles but doesn't go. Until it warms up to operating temperature and then it is just fine.
This gets worse the more times I stop for an hour then try to go again - it is better when it is starting from being completely cold.
The check engine light does not come on, two different mechanics have tested it - no codes are produced - the computer thinks everything is just fine. One of the mechanics called his buddies at a Toyota garage in California but none of the 12 mechanics there could figure it out.
Got a 98 explorer eddie bauer and the low beams went out. A search through the console revealed this explore doesn't have the lamp/light out module. So i guess a multifunction switch would be the next place to go? Fuses look good too btw.
View 3 RepliesMy 98 Limited started blowing hot air yesterday, even in Max AC. It even blows hot air out the defroster when the climate control is shut off. It started doing this 2 days ago, but I could still get sporadic cold air from Max AC, but now nothing. What could be the problem?
View 8 Replies