Ford - Explorer :: 1999 - Codes P1151 And P0133 / Shutter When Going Up Hills
Aug 15, 2013
I have a 1999 explorer with a 4.0 ohv auto with about 174,000 miles on it. the PO changed the coil pack, wires, plugs, MAF and cat on it trying to get rid of codes. I know the from searching that they are both precat 02 codes. So I am planning on looking for vacuum leaks with propane around intake and egr and checking on the fuel pressure and wiring and connections. Is there any thing else I should check out? for both sensors to throw this code? The truck runs ok just has a shutter when going up hills and stuff.
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A few days days ago I noticed a check engine light and pulled an 1151 code. The truck runs great, like it always does. It's a '99 Eddie Bauer 5.0 with 275K. I turned the code off and a day later it came on again with no difference in the running.
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Truck Specs: 1997 F250 LD 184000 miles and a 5.4, automatic, shift on the fly 4x4 extended cab.
What I did: Changed the exhaust manifold gasket on the right side. There were some broken studs which came out with a stud remover.. No torch was used during this evolution.
What happened: After driving 10-15 miles it set the codes that I listed in the subject line. Reset the codes 20 or so miles later the P1131 code set again. (both times there was a noticeable loss of engine power) The upper O2 sensor checked out with a meter. When I checked the voltage on the truck's harness plug referenced to the NEG terminal on the battery, both the power and gnd had 12V- Key On Engine Not Running (KOENR).
What I did: Cleaned the connections put dielectric grease in the connections and reassembled. Reset codes; all was well ~ 100 Miles later the codes are back. I also ran a continuity check from the plug to the control module, they check out fine.
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I have a 2000 with a 5.4 and 166K miles. It had multiple exhaust manifold studs broken on both sides. Now that thay is fixed, I am getting the p1131 and p1151 codes. The EGR tube was also replaced at the time of the manifold fix. I checked over all the tubes and electrical connectors to rule out something simple but did not find anything out of place. The intake manifold was replaced with a new Napa one less than 5K miles ago as well.
Could the leaky exhaust manifolds over time set the fuel trim level high and now that they are fixed, the ECM is thinking it is running too rich? Can the ECM be reset to zero? There is also a ticking/rattling noise when you accelerate that seems to be coming from the fuel injectors. I listened with the stethescope and they are the only things that sound like the noise I hear. Could these all be related?
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Alright I might have made a major mistake and I need some input; I just recent bought a 2001 Jetta VR6 131k on it and at first I didn't notice so much but since I've gotten. To drive it more I've noticed it's really sluggish on take off and doesn't seem to shift into 4th gear. Also I started noticing a faint rattling noise. And the CEL is on with the codes P0785, P0411 and P1151.
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I checked my engine codes after the engine light came on. They were P0133 and another indicating an A/F upstream sensor problem. I had it replaced by an independent mechanic. A few days after I had the same code. Mechanic went over it and thought it was loose wiring. A few days after codes P0133 and P0128 were generated. Now the light will come on every few days, will stay off for a few. Do I have to get my computer upgraded? Honda 05 CRV ...
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I have a 99 explorer 4.0L. I am getting trouble codes p171 and p174. I have cleaned the MAF and changed the EGR valve already. I have done some research on this and am coming up with it's either the O2 sensors or there is an air intake leak (gasket). This started up a couple months ago and I have been working on it when I can. I don't really want to spend another $50 on an O2 sensor if it's the gasket.
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I have a 2000 Ford Explorer with 188,000 miles on it. I bought it used with 110K miles and put a new tranny in at that time. Now, I am having problems. I don't know if it's the tranny or the engine. It looses power when climbing hills. It takes off really slow with no power and finally gets up to speed it switches gears the whole time smoothly but the engine just can't take a load.
The check engine light came on and put out 10 codes:
P1451 EVAP Control System Canister Vent
P1747 Electronic Solenoid A-Short Circuit
P0743-Torque Converter Clutch Circuit Electrical
P0750-Shift Solenoid "A"
P0755-Shift Solenoid "B"
P0760-Shift Solenoid "C"
P0765-Shift Solenoid "D"
P0135-O2 Sensor Heater Circuit
P0155-O2 Sensor Heater Circuit
P1409-EGR Vacuum Regulator Circuit Malfunction
Those are the codes and I don't know how one has anything to do with the other. I checked the dip stick on the tranny and it's clean. Juicy red and not shavings.
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My 1999 Saturn SL2 recently showed the "Service Engine Soon" light. I brought it to Autozone for a code scan. They told me it is P0133, and could be due to a bad oxygen sensor. The only two pieces of info I have is that:
a) my car recently passed emission test mandated by my county, and the Service Engine Soon light comes on about a week AFTER the check
b) my car usually runs fine with no problem, only that my wife notes that it starts to "shake" when I drives over 65MPH or turns on cruise control. I have noticed a slight drop in fuel economy - from 22.5-24.5MPG to around 21MPG
Not sure if it is worth the money for the repair. If it were indeed the O2 sensor problem, what might happen if I don't replace it?
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i have a 1999 F-150 2x4 witha 5.4 liter v-8 with 151,000 miles. Last week the truck began to run rough when i accelerated (ideled fine)and felt like it wasn't fireing on all cylinders and was puffing white smoke. A few minutes later the battery light came on and the truck lost all power and shut off. I replaced the battery and alternator and everything ran fine for a week. Now the issues have come back but i'm not sure the alternator and batter have gone bad again. What could be going on? Have the coils gone bad?
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I bought a 2001 7.3L deisil F250 CC short box a year ago. It has an AFE cold air, a 4inch exhaust and an Edge chip in it, Now the tranny was rebuilt a year before I bought it, however I almost instantly noticed a shutter when starting from a stop. One shop said u joints. I replaced them and the carrier with no results. IMHO u joints was a bad diagnosis as it only happens off the line and not through at a certain rpm. When down shifting I find the truck almost goes into to neutral before engaging 2nd gear. I have a 6.0l tranny cooler and my temps get to 215 and above quite easily when towing... 3-6k-lbs. (I try to pull over before that) Also when towing up hills the tranny almost feels like there's a slight grinding. For the first little bit anyway.
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Having trouble with a shutter upon take off in there drive train. It only happens when I am going straight. It does not do it when I am turning or anything. I just bought the truck used sat. It has around 18000 miles on it. I haven't had a chance to put a load on it yet to see if it does it then.
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Put in my new S&B intake today and when I stomp on the gas I am getting a loud shuddering noise from the intake when I change gears. Also sounds like a squealing sound sometimes. Doesn't sound like other trucks that I have heard. What that could be?
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2002 F350 single wheel 4x4, 280k miles chipped with a 6
My problem first started when the bottom of my sending unit broke off in tank causing me to run out of fuel at 1/4 tank. I dropped tank and repaired. A week later I noticed fuel dampness on my tank and discovered I crossthreaded cap on sending unit. About this time I started getting a shutter at slight acceleration only and a harder hit at idle. I thought air in lines so I dropped tank and reassembled. No air in line at all now but I still have a shutter so I replaced fuel filter in case of obstruction. No luck. Now since I have owned truck it has been a pain to crank in cold weather if it wasn't plugged in over night. It has been hard lately even in moderate weather since shutter started so I replaced both batteries today.
I replaced the ICP today also because I noticed the other day when there was oil on and around harness to it and when I unplugged it today the truck changed idle and there was oil inside. After I changed it I took it out and it still had the shutter and sound of a miss. At about 8 miles in it just died going down the road. I coasted to the side and it cranked right back up and drove home. The shutter doesn't fill as bad but there. Also I live in the mountains and on my way home after cutoff I had chip in Stock position and had to put peddle to the floor to climb hill. I've never had to do that. I'm getting worried I work for a living and caint keep throwing money at it aimlessly. I'm thinking at this point IPR or CPS. But I'm no mechanic so I could be completely wrong.
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I just bought a 99 f250 2wd with 290k on it and my only issues are brake shutter and steering play.
The steering has about an inch to two dead space at center while driving. The truck tracks straight and doesn't wander at all. I was wanting input on what i should look at first to fix the dead space in the wheel. Its a little iffy having to steer through dead area to get steering output.
I just need something good so I can do it once and not have warped rotors again.
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As the title states I just finished putting pads and rotors on the front of my 04' f250. I have had a terrible shutter almost a bouncing effect while braking over the last week or so, finally got around to doing the work and still no satisfaction! My question is where to go next? Wheel bearings and tires are good, I do get a pretty good wobble/vibration in the pedal while braking. Should I be looking at a brake booster or master cylinder? Or is it possible it's a caliper? Truck goes down the road fine until and brake is applied.
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I have a 1997 Ford Ranger with a 4.0L 2WD. The check engine light just turned on with a code of p0133. I know that this is something with the bank 1 sensor 1. I tried doing some research and I think that it is on the passenger side before the cat converter. Now, I don't know what to do from there. How do I go about fixing this? What part do I need? How do I fix it?
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I have a 2001 F650 7 speed with 7.3l powerstroke and I am pulling a 15,000 pound fifth wheel. It is very new to me and just doesn't seem to have the pulling power. It seems to struggle even on flat going 65mph and when it comes to hills it really slows down. Should I be looking into power chips? If so, which one? Is there something else that may be preventing the full power?
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When I "step on it" on the freeway or even a moderately inclined freeway ramp, it bogs down and actually takes a few moments to cover. Sometimes will leave me crawling at about 20mph for a few minutes. Engine revs just fine in neutral. If I very slowly build up speed I can cruise at 75mph, but forget passing. Also, this came along at the same time a severe shaking/shuddering spell started. Not always, but often it is shaking the entire body and certainly through the steering wheel. Was so bad the first time I stopped to see if I had a flat. Usually lasts until I slow way down and ease my speed back up. Had the front end steering structure replaced about two years ago, so I don't think it is that. What is the cause of the bog down and could the shaking be related? This truck sits for 2-3 weeks at a time and then I drive for about 50 miles and park it again. Can Michigan gasoline go bad that quickly?
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I have a 1999 Motor home has a 6.8L Triton V-10 just had a 100,000 milie tune up to include 10 new titanium spark plugs 3 months later I have this problem While driving the other day I had no power to take small hills. Little neighborhood hills were slowing me to 10 mph. Hoping its was the MAF sensor although it didn't throw a code when it was doing this but a code for PO358. So what's next back to the Ford Dealership for repairs?
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1998 Ranger 4x4 4.0 Ltr - Runs rough ever now and then and CEL giving P1151 code. Upper and lower intake gaskets have been replaced.
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