2001 explorer, SOHC. Sometimes just lately (5 times in the past three weeks) the engine just does not start. It turns over just fine but makes no attempt to actually start. When it does this it will after a few attempts start right up like nothing was ever wrong. It doesn't seem to matter whether it is cold or warm. Intermittent problems are very hard to diagnose .....
View 10 Replies1989 2.8L FI Celebrity Wagon. Normally runs fine (for 190K miles) but occasionally won't start. Turns over fine but make no attempt to start - like no fuel or spark. I'm guessing an electrical problem as it will start instantly and just fine a day or two later. Where to start looking for the problem?
View 2 RepliesMy son's Ranger wouldn't start today, turns over fine, added gas to make sure it wasn't out still no hit.
Other than fuel pump (he said he couldn't hear it) what things should he check? I'll check back in the morning.
1994 Ranger 2.3 4 Speed ....
I bought a 99F350 with a 7.3, it was not running when I bought it. Batteries good, new starter, turns over just fine, fuel pump works, but now I don't know what to look for.
Was testing ohms for my injectors and at the plug on top of the driver side valve cover, couldn't get a reading at all, tested the ohms at the pass. Side valve cover plug and got good ohm readings.
Was going to leave the other morning and put it into reverse and nothing happened. Tried every other gear and works fine. Reverse is the only thing giving me problems right now. Tried doing some research on my own, because I can't afford a tranny rebuild. I was hoping it was either the solenoid or low/reverse band. I don't know about the band, because it works fine in low2 and low1....
View 2 RepliesYesterday I went out in the AM, got in car, depressed the brake, and pushed the start button. I heard normal electrical sounds, then the red triangle of death came on, and it stopped it usual start up sounds, and nothing happened. I could not do anything. I couldn't take it out of park, couldn't push start button again. The electrical system was on cause a bunch of the lights in the dash were lit ( the only one i remember that was lit was the brake word in the dash, but there were others) I sat there a few minutes trying to push the start button or get it to shut off somehow, and eventually it all just shut off.
I depressed the brake and pushed the start button again and it started up just fine, and off to work I went. It started up fine on my way home from work, and running errands after work.
Then this morning - same thing! First time, no start, and the red triangle of death came on. I let off the brake and just sat there hoping that like yesterday it would eventually shut off and I could try again. The only difference today was that on the display monitor a warning notice came up it said something like: Caution: Problem with Transmission "P" brake system. Park car on flat surface, and fully apply the parking brake. When this happens though, I cannot event put the car in neutral or anything. I continued to sit there about 4 minutes, then everything shut off, and I started the car right up like normal. and off to work I went.
What could be my issue?? My driveway in on an incline, would this have anything with it not starting?
2001 F250 5.4 ... I'm losing my mind chasing a Gremlin. I've been having mostly intermittent starting issues with my truck. I've had the truck for a little over a year, after someone totaled my previous one.
It occasionally wouldn't start on the first attempt, but it got really bad in the last couple weeks.
I first thought it was a faulty inertia switch or wiring in that vicinity, as at one point after manually tripping and resetting the cutoff switch it would start, UNTIL I put the trim panel back. At this point I think that may have been a coincidence.
I eventually probed the switch and it tests as it should electrically.
I put in a new fuel filter and things were fine for several days, but it acted up again. That time was last Saturday. Got it to start and all was good until tonight. Now it won't go, and I've tried so many times that I can see the battery power is dropping.
Last Saturday I pulled the relays from behind the radio and cleaned 'em up real nice. Also, just to check another variable I swapped the two that matched.
I'm about ready to change the fuel pump, but I've heard so many people say they did that but the problem was something else. Not only will it costs hundreds of dollars, its cold out and we'll have to drop the tank in the driveway.
In addition to the relay, inertia switch and fuse, I have found some mention of faulty fuel pressure regulators causing issues. I'll pry the vacuum line off in the morning to see if I can detect fuel residue on the vacuum side. (There is some noticeable corrosion on the fuel rail in that area).
I REALLY want to make sure I rule everything else out before spending hours under the truck in freezing weather dropping the tank and changing the sending unit out.
On key-on there is a noise from the gas tank, but someone else listening described it as a click but no whirring.
I do hear the relay clicking behind the radio. (Also, I pulled them again tonight and put a meter to them. With 12V on the primary side, they click and the other side shows continuity on diode check, and about .2 Ohm on resistance mode.)
I went through a lot of trouble to get my spare out looking for the fuel control module before finding out my truck is about 3 years too old to have one too. What else to check?
For over 1 year I've had a problem with my 2001 Volvo S60 only giving a "click" when I attempt to start it. Often when I repeat multiple times, it DOES START, but more often than not, it doesn't (at least right away).
I've replaced the battery, starter/solenoid and starter relay. Twice I've had it to the local Volvo dealer, and both times the mechanics said the problem was associated with "corrosion" on the solenoid blade. Once the mechanic just "wiggled" the connector, and the other time the blade was sanded to remove potential oxide/corrosion.
After replacing the starter/solenoid, it STILL didn't start, so I replaced the wire leading from the fuse-box, thinking that "wiggling" the connector may have degraded the crimp on it.
Now the car won't start AT ALL. I've tested the line from the fuse down to the wire to the solenoid, and the ECM only now gives a "pulse", rather than turning ON while the ignition is turned to START. I'm thinking that some other input is telling the ECM to NOT CONTINUE CRANKING.
I have a 2004 Elantra GT, and for the past year it sometimes makes no attempt to start when the ignition key is turned. All the dashboard lights, radio, bells and whistles are fine, but once the key is turned to start nothing happens. There are no clicks or anything. Some dashboard lights stay on and I can hear the initial whirring under the hood from the electrical system.
I've replaced the battery, ignition wires, and plugs. This will happen very erratically. Then all of a sudden it will fire up like nothing was wrong. This is always over a several minute time span of trying and retrying to start. I took it to a mechanic but we can never replicate the problem while there.
I recently caught up on some maintenance with my truck, changed the turbo pedestal seals, replaced both batteries, brakes, e-brake cable etc and installed new 10k hid headlights. its a single cab 250 with a 7.3 and zf6 4x4 with 133k. a couple days ago I turned on the headlights and the truck died, restarted no problem and would die the next 5 times I tried to turn them on, then it worked fine. yesterday I got in my truck to leave for work and got no wait to start light, no glow plug chatter, no fuel pump running. turns over just fine but no fire.
I got a ride to work and tried it when I got home, fired right up. I pulled the pCM, checked it out, no weird smells and my TS chip wasn't corroded or anything like that, worked fine. drove to 711 to get a 6 pack and it did the headlight thing again. I removed the HIDs because this all started after I installed them and reinstalled my silvanias and it didn't die when I turned them on. this morning went to leave for work, same no start condition. I disconnected both batteries for 30 seconds to reset anything and same problem. I was about ready to light it on fire this morning.
92 tercel will not start. Replaced plugs, wires, rotor, cap. Turns over ok.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2001 Honda Odyssey that doesn't start sometimes - mostly when it's really cold but not exclusively. It doesn't seem to matter if the gas tank is full or empty. It turns over fine and will catch and the die multiple times. There is sometimes a large "clunk" while it is turning over and all the lights will go off and then it will start turning over again. It can take a minute to 15 minutes to start when it isn't starting but about half the time, it start right up. This is only in the morning, once it's going for the day, it works. 126,000 miles, timing belt changed a couple of years ago.
View 5 RepliesSo my wife drove her car all day yesterday, everything fine. This morning went to start and it wouldn't. It turns over fine just not firing.
Now during the summer I had replace the fuel pump/filter before discovering that was not the issue.
I know you are already thinking CPS!.. I replaced that over the summer.
I have not checked the spark yet, kinda hard to do that one by yourself.
Beyond spark I am not sure what else could be wrong, especially because it was running fine last night. Is it common for accents to have issues in 20 degree weather?
It turns over but just wont kick in. Battery good, fuel pump good, no check engine light. It did this a couple time this month, and finally started, not it wont start at all. Runs great otherwise without any issues. Just don't know where to look or what to look for. All fuses are good. Fuel pump safety is okay.
View 1 Replies2001 Ex V-10 4x4. Ran like a top yesterday. Turns over fine but not even a sputter today. Plenty of fuel & battery. Has spark. Tried starting fluid, but nothing. No codes. Checked fuses and relays in dash & under hood. Fast forward an hour...
Went out and tried it again - fired up like nothing ever happened. Plowed snow for the better part of an hour, - ran like a champ again, smooth, no missing or stutters - parked it and shut it off. Tried to start it again within a minute or so and it would start, run rough & die. Tried a few more times with same results. Now it cranks fine but no start, no sputter. Gonna try a fuel filter tomorrow.
If it were the fuel pump, wouldn't it throw a code?
I have a 2001 Ford F-250 with the gas v-10. Yesterday it started just fine as always. Today I get into it and it starts to turn over just fine then starts to make a grinding sound and the truck won't start. I have had a fuel issue in the mornings with once it started you had to barely press the gass to keep it running. But never makes a funny sound and always runs fine. This only last for a couple of min and then it runs fine for the rest of the day. The grinding is not the starter. I took it off and had it checked and it was fine.
The truck had been using oil. When I checked the oil level it was low but it was still on the stick. "I know a motor needs oil to run smooth but it's my dads truck and well let's just say he is not the best on maintenance". Also I smelled the oil and it does have a gas smell to it. So it definitely does have some gas in the oil. I tried to light the dipstick with a lighter and it wouldn't light. So not sure how much gas is in it but that's what I did.
So the question is, would something just in mid crank go bad and then not let the motor crank. Truck made no weird noises before this so I find it hard to believe the barrings just went out in mid crank and now it is shot.
Also I just checked compression on front cylinders.
Driver side read 75lbs
passenger side read 100lbs
My car sometimes shuts off when I attempt to start the car. I start the car, hear a loud click and the electricity to the entire car dies. No dome lights, no headlights, no radio. I disconnect the negative terminal and re-connect and all power comes back.
The weird part is, sometimes it DOES start. Sometimes it starts on the first try, sometimes I have to disconnect/re-connect 9 or 10 times before it'll eventually start. Once it starts it never loses power or has any issues. What could it possibly be?!
I've ruled out the battery, as it's literally brand new. The connections to the battery terminals seem VERY secure (I've re-done them a few times) and there's no corrosion at all. I sandpapered to be sure. I've also ruled out the fuel pump (obviously).
Could an aftermarket alarm system inherited from a previous owner be doing this? Could there be an issue with the starter? A connection issue elsewhere? Is there any way I can track down the issue on my own?
2001 f150 4x4 5.4 205k ... This truck is not my daily driver but I use it about once or twice a week. Last night I drove it to the store and it ran great. As good as ever.
This morning it won't start. It cranks and the battery is strong but no bang. It was cold. Just below freezing for the first time this year. No blown fuses where would you start?
My 2006, 4.2 has been really erratically not starting. Turns over fine but will sometimes fire up and tries to run on maybe 2 cylinders, then stalls. Now it won't even do that, nothing. No check engine light or codes. Guess what the thing started up this morning 7 degrees out and running like a charm. Turned off and nothing again. Replaced relay for PCM ,no change, still no codes.
View 9 RepliesI have a 2003 f150 4X4. Whenever I go around a round about slowly, the truck sort of grind under the frame and shakes a little bit like I am in 4 wheel drive.
View 2 RepliesGot up yesterday and the truck would start. Turns over just fine, but won't fire. Checked codes and got p0403, p0404, and p0405; all egr related issues.
I'm going to pull the egr and clean it, but my question is, would these codes cause a no start? I haven't had any issues with performance that I read are normally happening when people get these codes. Just wondering if I may have another issue along with the egr problems.