Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: Turns Over Fine But Sometimes Fire Up And Tries To Run On 2 Cylinders Then Stalls
Feb 11, 2011
My 2006, 4.2 has been really erratically not starting. Turns over fine but will sometimes fire up and tries to run on maybe 2 cylinders, then stalls. Now it won't even do that, nothing. No check engine light or codes. Guess what the thing started up this morning 7 degrees out and running like a charm. Turned off and nothing again. Replaced relay for PCM ,no change, still no codes.
View 9 Replies
Advertisement
Got up yesterday and the truck would start. Turns over just fine, but won't fire. Checked codes and got p0403, p0404, and p0405; all egr related issues.
I'm going to pull the egr and clean it, but my question is, would these codes cause a no start? I haven't had any issues with performance that I read are normally happening when people get these codes. Just wondering if I may have another issue along with the egr problems.
View 11 Replies
My 2008 F150 5.4l SCrew wouldn't start this evening. The engine turns over and the starter engages, but it won't fire. Oddly enough the starter stays engaged after I take my hand off the ignition! I have to physically turn the key off for it to quit (didn't want to burn out the starter). The culprit may be the wet weather....it's been a lot milder today and we've had some freezing rain that turned to drizzle. My truck has only done this once before (last year I think). I eventually got it to start tho.
View 13 Replies
I recently caught up on some maintenance with my truck, changed the turbo pedestal seals, replaced both batteries, brakes, e-brake cable etc and installed new 10k hid headlights. its a single cab 250 with a 7.3 and zf6 4x4 with 133k. a couple days ago I turned on the headlights and the truck died, restarted no problem and would die the next 5 times I tried to turn them on, then it worked fine. yesterday I got in my truck to leave for work and got no wait to start light, no glow plug chatter, no fuel pump running. turns over just fine but no fire.
I got a ride to work and tried it when I got home, fired right up. I pulled the pCM, checked it out, no weird smells and my TS chip wasn't corroded or anything like that, worked fine. drove to 711 to get a 6 pack and it did the headlight thing again. I removed the HIDs because this all started after I installed them and reinstalled my silvanias and it didn't die when I turned them on. this morning went to leave for work, same no start condition. I disconnected both batteries for 30 seconds to reset anything and same problem. I was about ready to light it on fire this morning.
View 1 Replies
1 out of the 4 cylinders won't fire. The coil, spark plug wire, spark plug, fuel injector, and the wire going to the fuel injector all work.
My dad mentioned it could be a stuck valve, but he doesn't really know much about cars and I have never messed with valves before. If I could manage to get to a valve and it is stuck, do I have to pry on it to unstick it or grease it up? Or does it need replaced?
I forgot to mention that there is no new noises and the FPR isn't showing the fuel line is holding pressure when the car is off, even though I'm pretty sure it used to.
View 5 Replies
I have a 1995 ranger with a 4.0 it cranks just fine wont fire has alot of fuel spark it will crank and crack then it stop and acts like it is going to fire up and stops cranking... This thing has 253k on it...
View 4 Replies
The Phaeton is really a creature of its own. It is not a year since I bought my 2003 W12 and have had it towed three times since. The latest bother is that the engine doesn't fire on all cylinders. The ignition coils have now been replaced on all cylinders, and first it seemed to be fixed but after some thousand kilometers it misfired again. As always on a Sunday on a long trip... the warning lights go on and this time I just drove along despite what the manual says. It wobbled along and after maybe 10 kilometers it get fired on all cylinders again. The warning light is still on though.
Now after having drove the car a couple of shorter runs the ignition works fine and now the warning light, today, wasn't on. So is all well and dandy now? Another little bother, the back door, behind the drivers door, that one cannot be opened. Sometimes it opens sometimes not. No matter how many times you press the "open" button on the remote control, it doesn't open. No matter if you press the button above the inside handle, it doen't open. So, out of the blue, it opens ok! How about that one????
View 14 Replies
I have a 2003 Ford Ranger 4X4 4L AUTO. About once every 6 months it will not start. It cranks just fine but doesn't fire. After about 45 min. it start and runs great for an other 6 Months. I have replace the plugs, wires, distributor cap but it hasn't solved the problem. It has had this problem when it is cold and warmed up.
View 4 Replies
My girlfriend has a 2003 f150 4.6lt pick up its a great truck most of the time. Problem is when the temp gets in the neg double digits it becomes very hard to start it cranks fine but doesnt want to fire. When it does fire it might stall a few times before it stays running. The last cold snap we had I replaced the battery and in the summer the starter got changed. I have heard that this model of truck are known for hard cold starts. I am just wondering if this is true and any other thing besides block heater. It is strange that my 89 gm pickup will start no matter what temp and I'm having problems with the newer truck.
View 1 Replies
Friends truck, 06 with 135k. Problem he's having is, truck cranks over fine but doesn't fire, if he kick starts it, it fires right up. Haven't had the chance to put my AE on it, figured I throw it out there.
View 7 Replies
I have a 2005 F150 with the 5.4L V8. It has 70,000 miles on it and until yesterday and has been a great truck. While driving in traffic yesterday the truck started running rough and hesitating. It through two codes - misfire cylinder 5 and misfire cylinder 6.
In response, I purchased two new coils and 8 new autolite plugs. The plug installation went smoothly and the coils all went on without incident. However, this didn't fix the problem!
The next day I found that cylinders 5, 6, 7, and 8 were all having issues. At this point I also had an "O2 stuck lean" code so I pulled the plugs and found all four brand new plugs fouled and smelling like gas and an exhaust that smelled like raw fuel. This led me to replace the O2 sensor on the drivers side. With the new O2 my lean code disappeared but I still had a rough idle.
Further troubleshooting found that injector 6 was stuck open (which presumably fouled my O2 causing it to read lean and dump fuel thus fouling all the plugs on one side). I replaced the injector and the rough idle disappeared and all seemed really well as the truck idled in my driveway.
However, as soon as I hit the road I noticed a major hesitation. The motor is also noticeably louder and has a very hard time accelerating. I'm thinking that I've plugged up my cat by dumping so much fuel in to it and the hesitation is caused by a lack of breathing - does this sound possible? How would I confirm this without replacing the cat? Anything else I should look for? I'm fairly confident I have combustion in all 8 cylinders now so I'm leaning towards intake/exhaust issues.
View 5 Replies
I've had problems with my w12 2003 in that it doesn't fire on all cylinders. Eventually the "exhaust"-symbol lights up and I had to take it to a vw-center. They did change 1 "ignition coil" (if that is the right term for it) and it worked fine for some months. But last week it happened again, it is rather awkward since you get heavy vibrations from the normally unperceptible engine. I had to tow it to the same vw-center and now they change the remaining 11 "ignition coils". However it doesn't run true...! The "exhaust" symbol didn't light but the motor didn't fire on all cylinders, it was quit noticeable. Is this a known problem? What else than the "ignition coils" can be the cause of the problem?
View 4 Replies
Owning a 2001 F250 Extended cab with a 7.3 I have not had a lot of questions to ask fortunately.
My truck has spent a lot more time sitting than running lately and when I went to start it the other day it cranked fine but would not fire. Quick read on this forum and the first thing I found was how if the fuel solenoid had less than 10.8 volts when cranking it would not start.
I went down and checked the battery voltage and it was at 12.1 volts no load. I put the battery charger on for about 10 hours (time to kill) and when I pulled the charger and cranked it over, started with no problem.
View 3 Replies
I do not know the 5.4l 3v as well as my last 360ci dodge. It's a 2005 F-150 SuperCrew 4x4, got it cheap, and it's got issues. Got codes for misfire on cylinders 4 and 5 and Coil 'D' circuit malfunction. Obviously it has codes for limited power as well. was wondering how cylinder numbering goes and what coil is 'D'.
View 6 Replies
My dad has a 99 F250 with a no start issue. Everything was starting and running fine one day. The next he gets a no start. Cranks fast and fine but wont fire up and start. He has a scangaugeII hooked up to it and his oil pressures and volts look fine. His tach moves when he is trying to start it. He checked the icp sensor and it had oil through it so he replaced it with a Ford part. Unplugged it and the scangauge pressure goes up but no start. He also replaced the ipr with a new Ford one just in case. He checked and is getting low pressure and high pressure oil.
I am having him check the fuel heater fuse #22 to make sure it is not blown. He had the block heater plugged in all night along with a battery charger to make sure they are topped off as well. We have gone through a couple of the checklists on this site for a no start condition but nothing has solved it yet. I think he is sitting at about 200k on the motor. No major issues or problems until now. He is currently also pulling the ICM to check it out as well. No codes are being thrown.
View 14 Replies
So my sister has a 2000 Ranger 2.5L. I put in a new starter today for her today, and the second I re attach the battery terminal it turns over but wont fire.?
View 4 Replies
My 01 F150 5.4 with 208K miles is having a starting issue. Did it again today, turns over, but won't fire. Problem has occurred a couple times in the past, but started after just a couple time of trying. Today however it took many times of turning it over I would say 5 or 6 times before it started. Seems like it's turning over kind of fast as well (faster than normal). Runs fine after it starts.
View 14 Replies
I have a 2007 Ford F-150 King Ranch, my auto start has been acting up recently I push the start button the horn beeps, then powers up, but then don't start, up until now it has been working fine. Also when I sit in the truck and put the back of the key(black piece) near the ignition and press the start button it fires up as normal...
View 2 Replies
All of a sudden wouldn't start Saturday morning. Turns over fast. No fire. Waited a while and tried again and it started and ran fine. It did it again Saturday afternoon, so I changed the fuel filter. Gas from filter was very dirty. Still did it after filter change, so I replaced the fuel pump relay. Still did it twice on Sunday. Once it starts, it runs perfectly. Drove it 200 miles without a problem until I killed it. Then it wouldn't start.
View 9 Replies
My daughter's 1998 Saturn S-series will not start. It will turn over fine but will not fire until I shoot some starter fluid down the intake. Then it fires up and runs fine. It consistently will not crank unless I shoot the starter fluid to it. I can hear the fuel pump prime up when I turn the switch on. The Saturn dealer says it may be the ECM but I have my doubts. The ECM will cost my $800 from Saturn.
View 14 Replies
When I start my car it seems like some of the cylinders are missing for like 5 seconds then runs fine. Sometimes its quite violent and this morning it stalled the first time I tried. The colder it is outside the worse this becomes.
The car is still under warranty, but you have to wait a week to get the car into the dealer here and a battery wouldn't be covered anyway. Here is what I have so far.
Bad battery : The car has 45k miles on it and as far as I know the battery is stock. Also, when I did the 40k service I seem to remember something about the battery on the invoice (I will look), but I was too busy worrying about the bald tires. I do generally leave my ipod plugged into my car stereo (which charges it) over night, so that is putting a drain on it. I am going to take it out of the car tonight and see if that makes a difference. I suppose I could take the battery to O'Reilly's and have them test it, but it seems like it would be in their best interest to lie.
Coolant temperature sensor : The car was recently in the shop and they said they found a small coolant leak and fixed it, maybe the sensor became damaged? Most reports I see about this suggest the car runs rough for much longer than mine and must be fed gas.
View 4 Replies
