Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: Engine Turns Over And The Starter Engages But It Won't Fire
Mar 3, 2015
My 2008 F150 5.4l SCrew wouldn't start this evening. The engine turns over and the starter engages, but it won't fire. Oddly enough the starter stays engaged after I take my hand off the ignition! I have to physically turn the key off for it to quit (didn't want to burn out the starter). The culprit may be the wet weather....it's been a lot milder today and we've had some freezing rain that turned to drizzle. My truck has only done this once before (last year I think). I eventually got it to start tho.
View 13 Replies
Advertisement
What might be going wrong with my 2003 Celica GT? The problem is that it infrequently is taking longer to start. The starter turns over the engine, but it does not fire. It continues for a considerably longer time to crank the engine, then finally it fires and starts. Could it be that the fuel pump is beginning to fail?
View 3 Replies
So my sister has a 2000 Ranger 2.5L. I put in a new starter today for her today, and the second I re attach the battery terminal it turns over but wont fire.?
View 4 Replies
My 2006, 4.2 has been really erratically not starting. Turns over fine but will sometimes fire up and tries to run on maybe 2 cylinders, then stalls. Now it won't even do that, nothing. No check engine light or codes. Guess what the thing started up this morning 7 degrees out and running like a charm. Turned off and nothing again. Replaced relay for PCM ,no change, still no codes.
View 9 Replies
My truck is a 2004 (new body style) 4.6L XL Supercab 4x4, trans code A, which I believe is the 4R75W transmission. I bought the truck used last year with 110k miles on it and it still only has 115k now. I think the problem with the trans was there when I bought it (it's highly intermittent) which may be the reason why the PO traded it in, because the truck is in excellent shape and has clearly been well cared for in all other regards.
The problem only occurs after having let up off the accelerator pedal for a while and coasting, then getting back on the gas without coming to a complete stop, like one might do coasting downhill or coming up to a light that turns green before you come to a stop. When that happens it feels like the transmission has shifted into neutral and the engine revs up freely for a second or two and then suddenly engages and clunks / slams into drive. This doesn't happen every time that I attempt to reproduce it, and it went for the entire summer without doing it once. But, now that winter is coming on in New England I find that it is doing it again once in a while. The problem seems to happen whether overdrive is engaged or not.
I've checked fluid level and condition and both are fine. Nice bright red color and no burnt smell. The transmission works well in all other ways except for this one issue. With the exception of this problem it seems to be engaging, driving and shifting perfectly, with no slipping, even when giving it a good romp, with or without 4x4 engaged, or even carrying a heavy load, causes no problems.
To me, this seems like a control problem of some kind, doesn't it? If it was mechanical or hydraulic I wouldn't expect it to only occur after coasting for a while.
View 1 Replies
In a matter of weeks, my truck destroyed two sets of flywheels and starters. When the ignition key engages, the engine "jumps back?. Apparently, this causes the starter and flywheel teeth to grind. My mechanic cannot determine the cause of the "jump back". He thought that it might be the timing. His examination and testing, however, proved the engine properly timed.
View 6 Replies
I have a 2004 Escape, 4x4, V6 with 116k on it. Recently it won't start until it's sat for a few hours. I'll drive it for a couple of days without a problem and then it will refuse to start. The Battery is strong, the starter is trying to turn it over but it won't fire up. I've seen several other posts with Escapes having this same issue but none have given a resolution. I'm figuring it may be the fuel filter, the fuel pump, or the computer control.
View 14 Replies
During the cold snap over the last few months, my 1997 Toyota 4Runner has been having starting problems with the following symptoms in this order:
I turn the key and nothing happens.
I keep turning the key from off to start, and the starter eventually engages and cranks 2 or 3 times, but the engine does not turn over.
I keep trying and the starter engages and keeps cranking even after I turn the key off.
I panic, and turn the key on and off until the starter stops cranking.
I try a few more times and the starter cranks and the engine catches, but lugs until I pump a little gas.
Really weird thing. Occasionally, after the above sequence, the emergency brake light stays on even though the brake handle has been disengaged, and it feels like I have no power, then the light goes out and the car runs just fine.
The problem in intermittent. Cold seems to cause it although it doesn't cause it every time. Rain may be a factor as well. Sometimes, I only have to turn the key a few times, and then the starter will engage. I changed the battery after the trouble began, and it cranks well if and when the starter engages.
Up until this I have not had a day's trouble with this vehicle other than a little belt squeaking.
View 4 Replies
I replaced my starter with a new one from car quest yesterday, it was starting to turn the engine over slow. I checked the batteries, they were fine, so went for a new starter. After installing, the new starter turned fast and fine, started the truck ok, but I noticed a fast clicking sound from under the dash. Ran it home and tried to start it up this morning, turns over fast, the clicking sound is still coming from under the dash, but the engine won't fire. Just turns over. When it's turning over the check engine (and all the other dash) lights flash.
View 3 Replies
I have a 99 F450 bucket truck. I was up in the bucket when the engine died suddenly. It turns over but won't fire. I have no dash warning lights now either but everything else seems to be working. Lights, radio, annoying beeping sound from the key left in the ignition, etc. There are roughly 5 or 6 fuses in the panel to the lower left of the steering column that don't have power to them. Are they all supposed to have power when the ignition is on? I checked the fuse panel under the hood and all of the fuses that have 12V to them are good. There are a few small ones that don't have power to them but I don't think they do all the time.
View 9 Replies
My parents have an 07 f150 with remote start and for some reason it will not work, it locks the doors and turns the key on but it doesnt turn the engine over, we brought it to a local dealership and they just unplugged it and plugged it back in and it started working... but later down the road, like 150 kilometers my mom got out to go shopping and it wouldn't work again, does this mean the whole module has to be replaced or is there a quick fix to this, it looks like the stock ford remote start but it has a separate keychain for the button, if it has to be fixed, any instructions on how to do it?
View 3 Replies
No indication if related problems other than a cam position sensor CEL a few months ago. I've run VAGCOM a few times with no engine or electrical issues. I simply turn the key, engine turns, but no fire. Turn ignition off, try again and it fires.
2004 4.2l ... 148000 miles ...
View 2 Replies
I have a 2005 Grand AM SE v6, 3.4 that I had purchased used in 2008 with less than 23,000 miles. It is now at 52,000 miles. My troubles started less than a year after I bought it. In the last 4 years I have viewed just about every forum on the issues I am having, but I have not come across any with the same issues, there is usually a slight difference. Here are the details.
Car has hard starting problems randomly. Engine always turns over but does not always fire. Sometimes it starts right up, other times it takes several attempts. Totally random.
Car randomly shuts off while driving. Just cuts power, no warning..no sounds. No specific speed, totally random.
When starting, with the key in the "on" position, if the "service engine" light DOES come on..the car will start 100 percent of the time. If the "service engine" light does NOT come on, the car WILL NOT start 100% of the time. This is totally random also, but the car will ALWAYS eventually start.
Once the car starts, it runs fine..sometimes it shuts off , sometimes it doesn't. I've had the fuel pump pressure checked ( right up to specs). Replaced the Ignition Module. Replaced the Fuel pump Relay.
No codes come up at all. Both my mechanic and a friend of mine ( and my own observations from reading forums) lead us to believe it is a PCM issue..but another thought I have is possibly the connections (fusible links?)
Is it possible for me to take the PCM to have it tested and would a local mechanic be able to so that or will I have to contact a GM guy?
View 14 Replies
I am trying to start up my '57 Plymouth belvedere after 5 years of sitting up. Engine turns over but not getting fire to turn on. has points...
View 19 Replies
Camry 2002 LE (4 cyl Auto), 140K mi
This morning, for the first time I can recall, the car would not start right away. Had been sitting in the garage for 2+ days. Starter would crank just fine, but engine would not fire. No lites were left on overnite. Finally (after about 6+ attempts), engine started -- runs fine now.
Took it to TOY dealer. Their diagnosis: weak battery, alternator low output.Happy, had recently (6 mos) replaced battery after 4 years of use, so got a new battery N/C.TOY ran a charging system check and it shows "Alternator Condition: OK" (midway between shitty and great I recall).
Funny, but my first thought when it would not start was the fuel system (fuel pump) or dirty ignitors. I did ask my regular mechanic for an opinion, and he thinks it might indeed be the fuel pump -- perhaps a clogged filter.
View 2 Replies
I have a 1995 Ford Ranger, manual shift. It always starts when cold, but sometimes -- very sporadic -- it will not start after I've gone somewhere. This has happened maybe 8 times over the past 18 months or so. Always, after sitting a while, it starts right up as though nothing happened. Several months ago I left it with a mechanic for an entire week, but he could never get it to act up. Of course.
In browsing through these discussions, I've seen the "starter/clutch interlock switch" mentioned. Here is my question, though. Would the starter still crank if that was the problem? or does that switch stop the starter from engaging?
When mine acts up, the starter cranks, the engine turns over ... it just acts like it's not getting fuel. Is that a starter/clutch interlock switch issue? Or something else?
View 3 Replies
1998 f250 4.6 4x4. In park the starter engages with key on . Ounce running the starter is still engaged in park and neutral. No engagement in the drive gears. Changed the ignition switch and neutral safety switch on the trans. When key is off instrument cluster is still on.
View 3 Replies
I was driving to work and lost all power (during rush hour) I was able to coast to a exit. Had it towed home, when I turn the key the starter engages but nothing after that, the engine will not turn over. I checked the battery and has a full 12 volts.
I removed the belt and front plugs to see if I could manually turn the engine over but it will not budge. How can I tell if this engine is really locked up or if maybe something else is happening?
3.1 V6 engine .....
View 7 Replies
Had the Ex (2000 Limited V10 134K) about a month now, doing some reading in the FTE, saw the thread about wire chaffing in the steering column related to the gear shift selector and overdrive. Well, everything else has been chaffed on this truck so far I figured I better look at that too. They are chaffed right at the bottom of the base of the selector, not much wire to work with, might just replace.
I put everything back together and no issues. The next morning, I drove it and no issues until at work, put it in reverse (to park next to the bosses pretty new red Titan, picked that up from You Might Drive and Ex If) and the starter engaged. Got it parked, starter playing with switches for it to repeat, found that with the keys in my hand and turning on the headlight switch on (park or headlight position) the engine would start turning over, turn the key on and the headlights on and the EX starts, started stayed engaged until headlights are turned back off. Reverse only engaged the starter when the engine was running, when not running neutral safety switch kicked in telling me it works.
Searches had me reading in other in another place that there are wires that go from the headlight switch to the steering column specifically heavier guage blue wire with red or pink stripe "I think".
So last night I took the column covers back off and started chasing wires. As I was moving wires looking for the short I kept turning the light switch on and off as I wanted to know if and when I found the short. Evidently, I found it because the headlight switch and reverse stopped engaging the starter. I never did find the actual short. So the chipmunk has been chased from my wood pile but for how long?
I left everything in the column until the problem went away so to speak. I took the turn signal selector out inspected both connectors and wires and went about 6 inches back into the wiring harness, I found nothing, the turn signal selector had no impact on the started engaging.
View 2 Replies
I just got a 1998 F150 5.4l 4x4 autotragic. Was sold to me as needing trans, wouldn't start. Tossed in a new starter and solenoid, now I can hear the the starter turn crank pulley turns maybe a quarter inch and when I let off the starter it goes back to the same spot.
Fear is motor is locked, but question (i don't know automatics) is there any way that a bad trans could keep a motor from turning over? Truck rolls in neutral or drive, pulled the drain plug no water just oil. Tempted to just buy a running 5.4 with trans but if I can avoid that I'd prefer to.
View 3 Replies
2006 4.2L The pedal is good and the fluid is full but the clutch engages and releases about 2 inches from the floorboard. Is there possibly a rod that can be adjusted at the slave cylinder that moves the engage/release point along the pedal travel? Any thoughts before I get out the creeper?
View 1 Replies
