My 01 F150 5.4 with 208K miles is having a starting issue. Did it again today, turns over, but won't fire. Problem has occurred a couple times in the past, but started after just a couple time of trying. Today however it took many times of turning it over I would say 5 or 6 times before it started. Seems like it's turning over kind of fast as well (faster than normal). Runs fine after it starts.
View 14 RepliesAll of a sudden wouldn't start Saturday morning. Turns over fast. No fire. Waited a while and tried again and it started and ran fine. It did it again Saturday afternoon, so I changed the fuel filter. Gas from filter was very dirty. Still did it after filter change, so I replaced the fuel pump relay. Still did it twice on Sunday. Once it starts, it runs perfectly. Drove it 200 miles without a problem until I killed it. Then it wouldn't start.
View 9 Replies1998 F150 with 4.6L Windsor SOHC. I just completely rebuilt the engine including pistons, rings, timing chains (timing is good; compression @ 180 psi), 2 new coils, wires, plugs etc. and there's no fire at the plugs when I crank it. It turns over good but doesn't start. The fuel pump comes on and there's fuel up to the injectors. Before I disassembled the engine, it still ran good except for one piston. The 2 new coils, wires, plugs were replace before I rebuilt it. I was very thorough when re-installing the electrical etc... and triple checked it all after the engine not firing. Fuses are good. I know it's hard to trouble shoot without seeing the truck? The battery has been disconnected for months as I started a long time ago. Computer maybe?
View 6 RepliesI have a 2001 f150, 5.4triton, 4x4 supercrew. I'm having trouble getting the truck started. About a month ago is when I first started having trouble with it, and it's happened more frequently until now it just won't crank up at all. The engine is turning over, but it it just won't fire. When it starts, it runs and drives fine, no cut off or rough idles. I replaced the cam sensor today (figured it'd be worth a shot for 20 bucks) but that wasn't it.
View 2 RepliesI have a 97 jimmy that won't start. I have changed the fuel pump, checked the crank sensor, replaced wires. it gets fuel turns over but won't fire.
View 3 Replies2001 f150 4x4 5.4 205k ... This truck is not my daily driver but I use it about once or twice a week. Last night I drove it to the store and it ran great. As good as ever.
This morning it won't start. It cranks and the battery is strong but no bang. It was cold. Just below freezing for the first time this year. No blown fuses where would you start?
The odometer light turns on and off (mostly off) and seems to be getting worse. The repair shop I go to said its a dealer item and they usually send them out to a specialized shop, the dealer said replace instrument cluster. I may not be the best but I would like to try a few things before I shell out the money. I read that it may simply be the connections at the Instrument cluster plugin which might just need cleaning, read another fix which involved Pencel soldering, Cold Solders on the instrument clusters circuit board.
View 2 RepliesI have a 99 F450 bucket truck. I was up in the bucket when the engine died suddenly. It turns over but won't fire. I have no dash warning lights now either but everything else seems to be working. Lights, radio, annoying beeping sound from the key left in the ignition, etc. There are roughly 5 or 6 fuses in the panel to the lower left of the steering column that don't have power to them. Are they all supposed to have power when the ignition is on? I checked the fuse panel under the hood and all of the fuses that have 12V to them are good. There are a few small ones that don't have power to them but I don't think they do all the time.
View 9 RepliesWhat might be going wrong with my 2003 Celica GT? The problem is that it infrequently is taking longer to start. The starter turns over the engine, but it does not fire. It continues for a considerably longer time to crank the engine, then finally it fires and starts. Could it be that the fuel pump is beginning to fail?
View 3 RepliesHave starting problems some times, cranks over real good but will not fire . When this happens i have no fuel pres. But after it starts then it will run good This problem usually happens first thing in the morning. Is there a fuel pump relay in this system or do i have a bad pump . I only have 85,000 miles on this truck.
View 6 RepliesA couple of weeks ago my truck wouldn't start. I replaced the crankshaft position sensor and when that didn't work I took it to a mechanic. At first it wouldn't start for him either. After move the truck inside he tried to crank it again and it fired right up. He said he didn't want to replace something if he wasn't sure what it was. Today it wouldn't start again. I bought some noid lights as suggested on line and tested one of the injector connectors and it did not light up. I realize that the injectors are not getting the needed "pulse". Whole thinking about what to do next I noticed that there was a broken wire. The wire is going to a really small looking box of some sort that is attached to the engine close to the injector at the front of the engine. What the wire is for and I am really not sure what to do next. I will try to upload a picture...
View 13 RepliesI just picked up an 02 Supercrew. It came with a “Ford” remote starter. I imagine it was a dealer install for the previous owner. Anyways when I try to use the remote starter, it will crank the engine over but not fire. If I manually start the truck it fires up immediately. How come the remote start wont fire?
View 7 Replies2000 ford f150 4.6 auto. Will spin over but won't start. checked coil for fire, no fire. Check fuel rail for fuel, no fuel. No theft light flashing and no check engine light on. Has new battery and plenty of fuel in tank. Started fine yesterday but not today.
View 5 RepliesMy girlfriend has a 2003 f150 4.6lt pick up its a great truck most of the time. Problem is when the temp gets in the neg double digits it becomes very hard to start it cranks fine but doesnt want to fire. When it does fire it might stall a few times before it stays running. The last cold snap we had I replaced the battery and in the summer the starter got changed. I have heard that this model of truck are known for hard cold starts. I am just wondering if this is true and any other thing besides block heater. It is strange that my 89 gm pickup will start no matter what temp and I'm having problems with the newer truck.
View 1 RepliesMy neighbor's 2000 5.4L F150 caught fire under the hood last night while parked in his driveway nosed up to the garage door. I wasn't home at the time so didn't see it 'til this morning; at first I thought the hood had blown off but then realized it had MELTED! He was inside at the time, heard a soft "WHUMP", went outside to find his truck on fire and called 9-1-1. The small windows in the garage door are gone (blown out?), and the garage door and gable all the way to the peak are scorched. His 'Toon parked next to the truck ain't looking real good either.
Awhile back, seems like there was a problem with Cruise Control switches on master cylinders causing fires; anyone have any info on this and if true, what FoMoCo did about it?
The fire dept. is supposed to tow his truck to where-ever an investigation can be done, but who knows how long that will take or if a valid cause will ever be found.
Have a 2000 F-150, 5.4L. Once recently in a parking lot, it would crank but not fire or start. Wife called me to come get her. By the time I got there, she said it started "after she loosened the gas cap & re-closed it." But, it started fine for next several weeks. Yesterday it didn't. I read a bunch of threads here on possibilities. Many troubleshoot items I checked out or had done.
Chilton manual says you can get limited error codes from the light on dash flashing - MIL - Malfunction Indicator Lamp Method.
For now, I'm trying to find the 2nd, separate, one-wire lead "near or with the (main) Diagnostic Connector." They call the single wire / connector the "Self-Test Input connector" (STI). You're supposed to use a jumper between that STI & the upper, right connector of the main diagnostic connector. Then you (may) get flashes corresponding to codes via the key on, engine off method.
I see no such single wire lead or connector anywhere near there. Not up under the dash either - stuck my head under there & used mirror. There's a separate connector (not in use) clipped on the L side of the main diagnostic connector, but it has 5 pins inside. I took pics, but forum says I "may not post attachments." Been a member for yrs. That extra 5 pin connector faces toward firewall.
There's an "empty hole" - 1/4 in. (facing forward) in the bracket that holds the main diagnostic connector. Just above the main connector. Not sure if something was ever there
If no one knows how / if the Malfunction Indicator Lamp Method works or where the jumper goes, I'll be forced to buy a code reader w/o researching which are decent or crap (around $200 or less). I maybe? could wait to order one online (if knew which one). Also have AutoZone, O'Reilly, Advance, NAPA, PepBoys & others locally.
* The truck shows a check engine soon light, so should be a code already. * Yes, I tried her loosen / tighten gas cap trick.
* Also put a slow charger on for a while & even used the fast start setting on charger. No go, but engine turns really fast.
* Crawled under the gas tank & listened for fuel pump to activate when key is turned to Run.
* Fuel pump made a small noise - more like a relay or "clicking" - not a whine or whir.
* Checked most fuses - under dash & hi voltage box - that have anything to do w/ fuel pump, PCM & several others - mentioned in similar threads here.
Can't really check relays & don't want to just start replacing parts. I don't have a code reader & reluctant to buy one from local store w/o some reasonable research. (I don't mind buying one, but...). If I could drive it to the auto store, I wouldn't be asking this. Chilton's doesn't say if this malfunction indicator lamp method will work if a vehicle won't start. But, a code is already thrown.
99 F250LD 4x4 w/5.4 and 215k . I'm sure I'm not the only one with this problem. Just had quite a bit of rain in my area. I didn't drive the truck in it but 3 days after the rain stopped I did. Skipping badly ! It has done it before and will clear itself up after a heat cycle or two. This time it kicked a p0307 code. # 7 cylinder not fire correctly I believe. I got ready to replace the cop but decided to wait a day. In the mean time I pulled the connector and blue compressed air through it and the male connector.
The next morning I decided to drive it before replacing the coil. Absolutely no skipping at all. Drove at different speeds , up heels slow , high speeds, no skipping. Ran the truck for about 20 minutes or so. Is the connector getting moisture in it ? Can I fill the connector with dielectric grease? Is there another problem. I cleared the codes and am going to drive a couple of cycles to see if any come back. Like I said it has done this before but not bad enough to throw a code so I'm not sure if it's always number 7.
So my sister has a 2000 Ranger 2.5L. I put in a new starter today for her today, and the second I re attach the battery terminal it turns over but wont fire.?
View 4 RepliesOwning a 2001 F250 Extended cab with a 7.3 I have not had a lot of questions to ask fortunately.
My truck has spent a lot more time sitting than running lately and when I went to start it the other day it cranked fine but would not fire. Quick read on this forum and the first thing I found was how if the fuel solenoid had less than 10.8 volts when cranking it would not start.
I went down and checked the battery voltage and it was at 12.1 volts no load. I put the battery charger on for about 10 hours (time to kill) and when I pulled the charger and cranked it over, started with no problem.
One month ago. I am at a store and it won't start. Turns over for a second but wont fire up. Waited a while and it finally did. Took to auto parts place and we went over all that it might be. I checked the button on the passenger side and it was down as it should be. I replaced fuel fuse 48 in the box under hood. All was well for a week
3 weeks ago again wont start but this time it will turn over and over and over. Waited again and it cranked. Went back to auto place dude said maybe the ground to the computer. So I put a neg ground on it to the frame. Worked for a few days.
1 week ago Again cranks but wont fire. I take it to the ford house expecting expensive sex. They kept it for 2 days and it cranked all the time. They told me it had to not start so they could get a code. Check engine light has never come on. Even when it wont crank. I got truck and went to eat. And yes then it wont crank. Waited and had another marg and it finally cranked but you could smell gas like it was flooded. Took it home.
Today I took it down to auto place and tested fuel pressure. 60 psi no problems. grrrrrrr well maybe it ain't fuel pump. I have to have a truck I can rely on. I have football playoffs coming up and I travel a lot. It has a brand new interstate battery. I put Lucas gas treatment in tank. Dude at auto place said it would clear fuel line and lube fuel pump? It was 10 bucks for big bottle so I figured it couldn't hurt.
If its 10 at night and I am at a game shooting THEN Im sure it wont start.
My 2008 F150 5.4l SCrew wouldn't start this evening. The engine turns over and the starter engages, but it won't fire. Oddly enough the starter stays engaged after I take my hand off the ignition! I have to physically turn the key off for it to quit (didn't want to burn out the starter). The culprit may be the wet weather....it's been a lot milder today and we've had some freezing rain that turned to drizzle. My truck has only done this once before (last year I think). I eventually got it to start tho.
View 13 Replies