Neon :: 95 - One Out Of Four Cylinders Won't Fire
Jul 2, 2010
1 out of the 4 cylinders won't fire. The coil, spark plug wire, spark plug, fuel injector, and the wire going to the fuel injector all work.
My dad mentioned it could be a stuck valve, but he doesn't really know much about cars and I have never messed with valves before. If I could manage to get to a valve and it is stuck, do I have to pry on it to unstick it or grease it up? Or does it need replaced?
I forgot to mention that there is no new noises and the FPR isn't showing the fuel line is holding pressure when the car is off, even though I'm pretty sure it used to.
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The Phaeton is really a creature of its own. It is not a year since I bought my 2003 W12 and have had it towed three times since. The latest bother is that the engine doesn't fire on all cylinders. The ignition coils have now been replaced on all cylinders, and first it seemed to be fixed but after some thousand kilometers it misfired again. As always on a Sunday on a long trip... the warning lights go on and this time I just drove along despite what the manual says. It wobbled along and after maybe 10 kilometers it get fired on all cylinders again. The warning light is still on though.
Now after having drove the car a couple of shorter runs the ignition works fine and now the warning light, today, wasn't on. So is all well and dandy now? Another little bother, the back door, behind the drivers door, that one cannot be opened. Sometimes it opens sometimes not. No matter how many times you press the "open" button on the remote control, it doesn't open. No matter if you press the button above the inside handle, it doen't open. So, out of the blue, it opens ok! How about that one????
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I've had problems with my w12 2003 in that it doesn't fire on all cylinders. Eventually the "exhaust"-symbol lights up and I had to take it to a vw-center. They did change 1 "ignition coil" (if that is the right term for it) and it worked fine for some months. But last week it happened again, it is rather awkward since you get heavy vibrations from the normally unperceptible engine. I had to tow it to the same vw-center and now they change the remaining 11 "ignition coils". However it doesn't run true...! The "exhaust" symbol didn't light but the motor didn't fire on all cylinders, it was quit noticeable. Is this a known problem? What else than the "ignition coils" can be the cause of the problem?
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My 2006, 4.2 has been really erratically not starting. Turns over fine but will sometimes fire up and tries to run on maybe 2 cylinders, then stalls. Now it won't even do that, nothing. No check engine light or codes. Guess what the thing started up this morning 7 degrees out and running like a charm. Turned off and nothing again. Replaced relay for PCM ,no change, still no codes.
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I'm about to change out my harmonic balancer and have been reading some sites that tell you have to put it at TDC and other sites say "no" unless your messing with the timing belt. I have a 2002 dodge neon.
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Intermittently (although lately it's pretty common, perhaps due to the Texas heat?) my car will take several seconds to start. It sounds like the battery is dead, i.e., it sounds as if it's about to start but it straining, and then it eventually engages.
When this happens, I know that a) I won't be able to turn on cruise control and b) I won't be able to accelerate easily. at best I can get it to 60 mph
Similarly, even if I start up without a problem, and I'm cruising down the HWY at 80 MPH, the car will suddenly loose momentum and won't go above 60 mph. And I can't turn on cruise control (cc shuts down, in fact, if it was on).
This is a 2005 Neon, by the way.
I have replaced the battery and cabling to the battery to no avail.
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Several years ago, a tree limb fell on out Dodge Neon, breaking the windshield. At that time, the dash gauges worked fine, and continued to for at least a year. Then, every once in a while, the speedometer would just go dead. no mph reading, and the odometer would not register either. over the last several years, it has become more prevalent, and is not not working more than it is. the other gauges are also intermittently failing to read as well. the scariest thing, is when it does come back, the air bag light comes on for about 5 seconds! which to me means there is a possibility that if we were in an accident, they might not work at all.
I believe the dash circuit board is cracked, and this is why this is happening. If the actual dash has to come out of the car, which is what i have feared all this time, it will have to stay that way until we get rid of the car. i can not lay on my head (upside down with my head under the dash) for hours on end trying to find and remove all 40 bolts or plastic clips or darts, or what ever they use these days to hold a dash assembly in. How to replace that board (gauges)? Can it be done without removing the dash? i have a Haynes service manual for it, but we all know how bad those are. I would like to repair this, but i can not afford dealers labor rates, and my luck with home grown shops has been poor at best.
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My car seemed to drive home fine but when I put it in park to open my garage it started revving really fast and the check engine light came on. I could barely get it into drive and then it didn't hardly want to stop once in drive.
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One of the gas stations where I live recently added e15 and e30 gasoline to their pumps. I drive a 2005 Dodge Neon SXT and was wondering if either one would be ok to put in this car. I regularly put in the e10 gas and have done so for all of my vehicles since I have been driving. I read that e15 should be fine but was wondering about the e30 gas.
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My car was acting like it was in neutral. After cooling down for 20 minutes, it would drive about a block. Then it would not drive.
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My neon has a leak that was diagnosed today as a rear main seal. I realize this is an expensive repair and am wondering two things:
1) Can I limp it along until next Spring by adding oil as needed?
2) Can try stop leak additives? If so, which one?
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I've got this 96 neon. I can drive it to work and almost exactly 10 miles into the trip everyday I notice a subtle chug. Then it gets worst and within a couple of miles it chugs progressively worse until it dies. I pull over to the side of the road for 5-10 minutes. Then I can start it back up and run down the road another 3-5 miles before it happens again. I've changed the computer, coil, cam positioning sensor, O2 sensor, gutted the cat, changed plugs and wires. I'm to the end of my rope with this car. The codes that its throwing are no dice.
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I drive a 2004 Dodge Neon, 2.0 base-model that has had zero problems since I bought it, and regular maintenance has religiously been maintained. Yesterday, after having already driven once without any problems, I went to leave again, and it would not start.
When I turned the key, it started to start but just stopped, but my dash lights and radio all came on (and still come on) fine.
I called out AAA and they tried jumping it just in case, but to no avail. My friend then took out the starter AND the battery and took them to get tested- both were perfectly fine.
There is no wire corrosion, either, and no noise at all when I turn the key. Instead, everything else comes on except the car itself.
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My car seems to start fine but sometimes while its cranking or right after startup my gauges will bounce around, then it'll be fine. When I first popped the hood i seen that my negative battery terminal was covered in crust and milky looking grease junk. I dont know it it was acid from the battery leaking or what, but anyhow I cleaned up the post and replaced the negative terminal. But still it's doing it, not every time i start it but just about.
Besides the fact that it idles like a tractor the engine runs good and strong.
I have done some research and heard talk about the body control module but i dont think thats the problem in my case. Another thing that came to mind was the alternator but i don't seem to have any problem cranking the engine over and the battery is never dead.
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My 2003 Dodge Neon started overheating. We replaced the thermostat, temperature sending unit, flushed the radiator, checked for blockages, cleaned the radiator, changed the head gasket and water pump.It can run for about 10-15 minutes driving or 30 minutes idling before it overheats. The fans will kick on. The thermostat opens up. Pressure builds up on the radiator hose. When it gets hot, it boils back into the reservoir.I've been careful not to let it get into the red since the head gasket change.We sent the head off and had it planed.
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I have a 1998 plymouth neon that is leaking oil from the filler cap, I have replaced the cap 4 times and it still leaks from this same spot. What it might be?
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My stepson's 2005 Dodge Neon sometimes won't start. Turn the key, the dash lights and radio and electric stuff respond, but other than a click there is nothing of an engine start up going on. He'll turn the key a few times, he pumps the gas pedal, does what he thinks might wake it up. Usually it will start after a few tries. He thinks it gets worse in the cold weather, but not much worse.
He also notes that if he does a lot of short trips, like running errands, this problem comes up more often. The car may run fine for weeks, and then the problem hits. Of course, it never does this when the mechanic has it. The mechanic has no idea what to do, since the car works when they test it. I was wondering if I used a voltmeter could I check some key nodes when the problem comes up. Also, if it really does get worse at cold, can I spray some suspicious locations with freeze spray to try and instigate the problem?
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After a while of running with the A/C on the car starts to have little hiccups? almost sounds like it's missing? but not that dramatic, it will continue after I turn the A/C off, but resolve after I have had the car off for a while. It will start up again after an hr or less of starting the A/C. It seems like I have a loose in HP while this is happening, more so than normally expected with the A/C on. I have recently replaced the ignition cables, plugs, my car is definitely a little more peppy now, and had the timing belt/water pump replaced, all the ussual maint, but this issue was present before. What this could be?
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I have a 02 dodge neon that doesn't like to start sometimes when its cold it just cranks over and pops sometimes and then just cranks over....
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I have a question about a dodge neon 2002. I am wanting to buy this car from a guy, but he says it needs a power control module. Then car starts up and runs fine, it doesn't smoke etc; the problem is when your driving it, it will not shift into gear and will go back into neutral. I want a opinion on what it could be and what something like that could even cost to get fixed.
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Is there a relay for door switch and dome light? My "door" indicator stays on. The dome light stays on as if a door is open. Is there a relay for this switch? Where? I've checked fuses they are ok. (even though a fuse indicator light also come on)...
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