I'm about to change out my harmonic balancer and have been reading some sites that tell you have to put it at TDC and other sites say "no" unless your messing with the timing belt. I have a 2002 dodge neon.
View 1 Replieson the 3.5 how do I get the harmonic balancer off? I know that you need to use a 3 arm puller. I have a 3 arm puller but I cant seem to figure it out.
View 9 RepliesThe MK6 GoRf seems to have a problem with the Rear Harmonic Balancer on the Driveshaft to Haladex Coupler. I will have a look under the car this weekend just to check it out. By the way, I have no driveline vibration under acceleration. Wonder if the problem is with more power/torque on the turbo engines. But we have plenty of boosted VR6 engines, and I wonder if there are problems with the part.
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How to remove a harmonic balancer from a straight 8 Buick engine. There are no bolt holes on the balancer to use a standard balancer removal tool. I was able to remove the center bolt. I removed the center bolt then threaded it back in a couple of threads and tried using my hydraulic gear puller with the center of the puller on the bolt. I got it to move off about 3/16" but then it stopped. Right now I have the hydraulic puller still on under tension and am periodically spraying it with screw loose hoping it may pop off. I need to know if this will work or if I am fighting against the puller now.My 42 to 47 Buick manual does't give any info on removing the balancer.
View 5 RepliesI have a wobbly crank pulley and I am wondering how ofter the harmonic balancer should be replaced? I have about 125000miles on my 2004 Santa Fe 2.7 V6 and I have heard this is an issue around 100000. Also wondering how much it would cost to replace?
View 10 RepliesI have been stuck at the tail end of the head gasket job on my 97 B2300. I have been working every day, so I haven't been able to get to this until today. The harmonic balancer seems to be stuck and I can't get it off. Regular 3 jaw pullers won't work (tried 4, rented one from the parts store that didn't work either) and tapping it from the back side while rotating the engine isn't working either. The pullers keep slipping off because the of the pulley's front ridge being slightly larger in diameter than the rest of the balancer.
Is there some kind of special puller that I don't know about? I don't want to be too rough with it as it seems no one carries this particular balancer if I happen to break it. Side question..... I was told that the crank/cam seals will also work on the oil pump as they are the same size. True? I happen to have 3 seals and wouldn't mind changing the oil pump seal as a precaution. (note this is a later 2.3 with a timing belt driven oil pump)
I have a 2000 2.5 and need to remove the harmonic balancer. Are the threads righty tighty or lefty loosey.I'm replacing the timing belt and pulley
View 1 RepliesI changed the harmonic balancer in my 93 ford tempo but the rattle came back!! Last night we tightened the bolt on it with 700 psi but it's still rattling! Could it be a bad balancer or another part that is lose? It rattles at idle and goes away while driving. It just started again the day before yesterday (I thought my husband was just looking to play with the car more) and by last night it got really loud. It's a deeper rattle then the rattle it had before we changed the balancer. Could there be something way out of balance that is causing the balancer to do this?
View 1 RepliesI have a 2000 mountaineer 5.0 that has a chirp/squeak when its cold and goes away once warmed up good occasionally. I have replaced the belt, alternator and manually spun all the idler pullies, water pump, ac and tensioner. Nothing squeaks. Is it possible for the harmonic balancer to make this noise?
View 14 RepliesCouple days ago, hop in the truck to go to work and belt starts squealing. Belt was old and it had been raining, so I figured it was a little wet. Turned on the defrost, and squeal gets worse. I then smell a burning. Opened the hood and saw the belt dragging on the a/c pulley, so I figure the compressor clutch is shot.
Looked at it today. I was wrong. Took off the belt and the a/c pulley spins fine. I can turn it's front hub by hand as well. I look around and see the crankshaft pulley isn't lined up. It looks like the outer pulley portion separated from the rubber. This caused the belt the jump and ride on the rubber part, cutting grooves in it.
Here's some pics:
From top driver's side:
From top passenger's side:
From bottom passenger's side:
I am reviewing the ford assembly instructions before I put my engine back together and noted that it indicates that the balancer bolts are torque to yield. I thought it odd but is it really necessary to replace these? Is it done in practice?
View 1 RepliesAny troubleshooting tips on determining where the noise is coming from at the rear of the car? There is a pretty audible hum at 55 mph coming from the rear of the car and I am not sure if its the balancer or the diff. I'm reading horror stories of improperly serviced rear diffs causing the diff to fail and starting to freak out.
View 10 Repliescannot find instructions on how to time a 2004 2.4 ltr counter balancer on the crankshaft.
View 2 Replies2008 Suzuki Grand Vitari V6 4WD. What could be causing a harmonic noise upon reaching 50 to 60 mph? It is intermittent and can last for hours on a long trip. It doesn't matter if AC is on. It sounds like a piece of plastic is stuck in the air vents, a high pitch.
View 1 RepliesThe other day, as I got up to speed on the interstate on moderately wet asphalt, a harmonic vibration started at around 65mph. Felt it in the seat of my pants more than in the steering wheel...the entire chassis was vibrating. So bad that when I called a friend to ask him what he thought, he could hear the vibration in my voice. Clutch in, engaged, under power, under back pressure - nothing affected the pitch or harmonics. Below 65 changed the intensity, but had to slow to 50 to make it stop. Took it all the way to 90, but no difference. This kept up for the entire 70 mile trip.
Now for the weird part. On my way back, 2 hours later, the rain had stopped and the interstate was now dry. No vibration. Just as smooth as glass all the way home. I had it in for service recently, because it happened once before...no codes, no clue from tech as to what brought this on. And just to be sure, I had them balance the wheels...very minor weight adjustment. I called the dealer on the way back to tell them it happened again, and all the tech could suggest was to stop by next time it was raining so they could road test it.
Even more weird is the fact that this has only happened twice and I drive the interstate in the rain all the time.
Not driving the R as much now that I got a 2011 Triumph Street Triple R. I use as my primary transportation. But I had the car into the dealer this week for service and they said there is a rubber dampener on the driveshaft that is starting to crack and get loose.
I didn't get time to check out the car on the lift and have not had any problems with this shop in the past nor the mechanic who has ONLY worked on my car since new. The R now has 104K on it.
I just replaced a 2005 with a 2012. The 2005 was dead quite during slow movement and parking while the 2012 hums. At first I thought the hum was a rubbing noise but on closer listen it sounds like a metallic harmonic vibration. It reminds me of the sound of rubbed crystal glass except lower in tone with metallic undertones. It is audible from outside the car or when the windows are down. It does not appear to be associated with movement as it comes and goes during the three point manuever required to park under the carport. Is this is normal or I am heading back to the dealer?
View 19 RepliesI noticed I was a bit low on coolant and started looking around. Found a drip on the serpentine belt and harmonic dampener. The T-stat is dry and was replaced 1.5 yrs ago with a full flush. Both hoses are fine and there is no coolant near the steering assembly.
I am figuring it is coming from the water pump. I am planning to put in that Bulletproof water pump and Mishimoto silicon hoses. Anything else I should consider before I dive in. I'll put a new T-stat on since the coolant is drained and it is cheap $20 insurance. BTW hoses and water pump are original (7/05 build date).
Additional information - no spots on driveway (from coolant anyway) and single drop on the dampener. No mess anywhere else and I am down about 1/2 gallon - degas is almost empty.
2005, 2.7l. FWD automatic, with 180,000+ miles.
A week ago it started making a random ticking noise I've never heard before. Today was the first chance I got to try and find it and I'm stumped on what could cause this.
The sound is a static or low voltage electrical discharge coming off the harmonic balancer. I can actually see the blue spark occurring at random intervals and locations on the balancer as the car is running.
Do i need to be looking for a bad engine ground? I'm having no other electrical problems. The car runs like a champ other than a minor oil and power steering fluid leak.
1 out of the 4 cylinders won't fire. The coil, spark plug wire, spark plug, fuel injector, and the wire going to the fuel injector all work.
My dad mentioned it could be a stuck valve, but he doesn't really know much about cars and I have never messed with valves before. If I could manage to get to a valve and it is stuck, do I have to pry on it to unstick it or grease it up? Or does it need replaced?
I forgot to mention that there is no new noises and the FPR isn't showing the fuel line is holding pressure when the car is off, even though I'm pretty sure it used to.
Intermittently (although lately it's pretty common, perhaps due to the Texas heat?) my car will take several seconds to start. It sounds like the battery is dead, i.e., it sounds as if it's about to start but it straining, and then it eventually engages.
When this happens, I know that a) I won't be able to turn on cruise control and b) I won't be able to accelerate easily. at best I can get it to 60 mph
Similarly, even if I start up without a problem, and I'm cruising down the HWY at 80 MPH, the car will suddenly loose momentum and won't go above 60 mph. And I can't turn on cruise control (cc shuts down, in fact, if it was on).
This is a 2005 Neon, by the way.
I have replaced the battery and cabling to the battery to no avail.