Ford - Tempo :: 1993 - Rattle Came Back After Changing Harmonic Balancer
Mar 22, 2013
I changed the harmonic balancer in my 93 ford tempo but the rattle came back!! Last night we tightened the bolt on it with 700 psi but it's still rattling! Could it be a bad balancer or another part that is lose? It rattles at idle and goes away while driving. It just started again the day before yesterday (I thought my husband was just looking to play with the car more) and by last night it got really loud. It's a deeper rattle then the rattle it had before we changed the balancer. Could there be something way out of balance that is causing the balancer to do this?
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I have been stuck at the tail end of the head gasket job on my 97 B2300. I have been working every day, so I haven't been able to get to this until today. The harmonic balancer seems to be stuck and I can't get it off. Regular 3 jaw pullers won't work (tried 4, rented one from the parts store that didn't work either) and tapping it from the back side while rotating the engine isn't working either. The pullers keep slipping off because the of the pulley's front ridge being slightly larger in diameter than the rest of the balancer.
Is there some kind of special puller that I don't know about? I don't want to be too rough with it as it seems no one carries this particular balancer if I happen to break it. Side question..... I was told that the crank/cam seals will also work on the oil pump as they are the same size. True? I happen to have 3 seals and wouldn't mind changing the oil pump seal as a precaution. (note this is a later 2.3 with a timing belt driven oil pump)
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I have a 2000 2.5 and need to remove the harmonic balancer. Are the threads righty tighty or lefty loosey.I'm replacing the timing belt and pulley
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I'm about to change out my harmonic balancer and have been reading some sites that tell you have to put it at TDC and other sites say "no" unless your messing with the timing belt. I have a 2002 dodge neon.
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on the 3.5 how do I get the harmonic balancer off? I know that you need to use a 3 arm puller. I have a 3 arm puller but I cant seem to figure it out.
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I have a 2000 mountaineer 5.0 that has a chirp/squeak when its cold and goes away once warmed up good occasionally. I have replaced the belt, alternator and manually spun all the idler pullies, water pump, ac and tensioner. Nothing squeaks. Is it possible for the harmonic balancer to make this noise?
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Couple days ago, hop in the truck to go to work and belt starts squealing. Belt was old and it had been raining, so I figured it was a little wet. Turned on the defrost, and squeal gets worse. I then smell a burning. Opened the hood and saw the belt dragging on the a/c pulley, so I figure the compressor clutch is shot.
Looked at it today. I was wrong. Took off the belt and the a/c pulley spins fine. I can turn it's front hub by hand as well. I look around and see the crankshaft pulley isn't lined up. It looks like the outer pulley portion separated from the rubber. This caused the belt the jump and ride on the rubber part, cutting grooves in it.
Here's some pics:
From top driver's side:
From top passenger's side:
From bottom passenger's side:
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I am reviewing the ford assembly instructions before I put my engine back together and noted that it indicates that the balancer bolts are torque to yield. I thought it odd but is it really necessary to replace these? Is it done in practice?
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The MK6 GoRf seems to have a problem with the Rear Harmonic Balancer on the Driveshaft to Haladex Coupler. I will have a look under the car this weekend just to check it out. By the way, I have no driveline vibration under acceleration. Wonder if the problem is with more power/torque on the turbo engines. But we have plenty of boosted VR6 engines, and I wonder if there are problems with the part.
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How to remove a harmonic balancer from a straight 8 Buick engine. There are no bolt holes on the balancer to use a standard balancer removal tool. I was able to remove the center bolt. I removed the center bolt then threaded it back in a couple of threads and tried using my hydraulic gear puller with the center of the puller on the bolt. I got it to move off about 3/16" but then it stopped. Right now I have the hydraulic puller still on under tension and am periodically spraying it with screw loose hoping it may pop off. I need to know if this will work or if I am fighting against the puller now.My 42 to 47 Buick manual does't give any info on removing the balancer.
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I have a wobbly crank pulley and I am wondering how ofter the harmonic balancer should be replaced? I have about 125000miles on my 2004 Santa Fe 2.7 V6 and I have heard this is an issue around 100000. Also wondering how much it would cost to replace?
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I have a '93 Ford Tempo 2.3 liter with a/c ....it OVERHEATS ... love the car, but when I sit in traffic, the temp needle goes up almost to the redline, I have to shut the car off .... it happens all year round ... if I'm driving up a hill the temp starts climbing, if I turn the heat OFF the temp climbs, in summer when I put A/C on the temp climbs ... I've put 3 Thermostats in, a new Water Pump, there are NO leaks in Radiator, I've replaced Hoses ... no I'm not a mechanic, I've brought it to garages ... other than the overheating issue it's a good lil car, uses maybe 1 QT of oil every other month ... when I lived in SC had the same car....SAME PROBLEM...had a 1995 Windstar that did the same thing, replaced radiators etc nobody could figure it out, or didn't want to....what is it with Fords!
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I have an issue with a 1993 Ford Tempo. It is owned by a auto parts store and is used for deliveries so it gets a lot of use from day to day. Several different mechanics have looked at it and no one can figure out exactly whats wrong.
The issue is this - The car stalls out at about 2 or 3 oclock everyday after being used for deliveries starting at 9 oclock. It will stall while idling in park, while stopped in drive, while coasting/accelerating in drive. The temperature is normal. Is will start to idle and run very rough and the car is less responsive to the gas pedal about 10 minutes before it stalls.
Once it stalls, if it is allowed to sit for about half an hour it will start and run fine for a little longer but eventually stall again. After it sits for a few hours it is fine to run for a few hours again. If you try to start it right after it stalls the first time the engine will turn over but stall out again in a few seconds, if you keep trying to restart it it will eventually not even crank. Also it will occasionally stall like this/run rough in the first 10-20 minutes of driving.
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First, the specifics: 1993 Ford Tempo 4-cyl Auto 78,000 miles (the proverbial little old lady car.) From a stop, the car will rev clear up to about 30 mph before shifting out of first into second. It will stay in second well past 60 mph, and even then, I have to kick it hard to make that happen. It's not that it won't shift; bit it seems to delay well past where it should. If I do manage to get it into 3rd, there's a pronounced thunk when it downshifts at a higher rev than it should when I slow down.
Now the background & other info: It's not my car. My B-I-L lent me this car because I ride a motorcycle all winter, & he took pity on me for the rainy & snowy days. In return, I offered to fix an annoying rattle. The problems went well past that, of course. The second day I drove it to work, it overheated and spewed clouds of steam in the parking garage. I had to have it towed home. That turned out to be a split in one of the heater hoses.
Disturbingly, however, the temp gauge on the dash never rose off of "C" on the ride in. I had expected to be replacing a water pump, but the heater hose seemed to be the only issue. Just the same, I replaced the thermostat and the temp sensor because I suspected the burst hose was a symptom, not the cause. Sure enough, after it's all put back together, the dashboard temp gauge is working better, and a short hop to the grocery store showed no overheating. At least that problem seems solved.
Prior to the coolant issue, the car drove fine (for one day); the shifting problem only surfaced afterward. As a last piece of info, I'll add that I had to add an entire quart of transmission fluid to bring the level between the marks. I didn't check that previously, so I can't say if that was a pre-existing condition. So then - what's the fix here? Could an overheated engine cause the tranny problem? Any chance this can be fixed simply? (FWIW, the rattle is the A/C pulley.)
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I have a 2004 F-150 5.4L V8 3v vin code 5. I'm a heavy equipment mechanic and know my way around engines. The longer I own this truck the worse the problem gets. I believe I've narrowed it down to the oil actuated timing chain tensioners. I get a really bad rattle with a shaking condition only after changing my oil. Other then that it runs perfectly. I'm guessing it's losing its prime and trying to build up oil pressure. Is there any way to hand prime those tensioners? Or should I just go ahead and replace the whole assembly?
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My '92 Ford Tempo's balancer has been making noise at idle; worse when in gear. I replaced the tensioner pulley and belt. It has a 2.3 (4cyl), with 45,000 original miles. My mechanic said it can't be replaced without pulling the engine. Is it safe to drive, especially long distance.
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I have a 1993 Chrysler Concorde. I bought a brand new Mopar battery about 4 months ago. I don't use the car very much, but I do start and run it at for at least 15 minutes at least once a week. Today it wouldn't start. I last ran it about a week ago. Is it likely to be a problem with the alternator?
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Just changed the fuel pressure regulator on 1993 volvo 850 (non turbo), now the idle goes up and down then stalls.
Also changed IAC, but with a used one from a previously working car.
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The back turn signals on my 93 ford taurus wont work but the front ones do. i checked the fuses and the bulbs and everything was good. the brake lights work and the head lights but no turn signals. same with the hazard lights. front ones work but no back ones. what should i try?
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Vehicle: 1994 TripleE RV based on Ford E350 7,3 Diesel, 70000 miles.
My trans is skipping out of lockup for 1-2 Seconds and then goes back to normal operation with lockup engaged. I am shure that it is the lockup disengaging because the increase in rpm is not as much as between gears.
This happens appr once or twice every hour when driving at normal constant highway speed. It happens both in 3rd and in OD. There is no flashing OD lamp, and the OD button is working (I use this actively when going up hill to keep up momentum and rpm)
I am not able to find out what causes this. I have replaced the speed sensor on the rear axle, the rpm sensor on the engine and the brake light switch on the brake pedal. Replaced one item at the time to be able to determine if any of these items was causing the problem. But none of them made any difference, the problem is still there. I have also inspected the harness connector on the trans and it seems fine to me.
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Experiencing a really bad rattle after changing the oil? It sounds like the chain tensioners are losing pressure during the oil change.
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