Neon :: Cranking / Startup Gauges Bounce Around
Aug 18, 2008
My car seems to start fine but sometimes while its cranking or right after startup my gauges will bounce around, then it'll be fine. When I first popped the hood i seen that my negative battery terminal was covered in crust and milky looking grease junk. I dont know it it was acid from the battery leaking or what, but anyhow I cleaned up the post and replaced the negative terminal. But still it's doing it, not every time i start it but just about.
Besides the fact that it idles like a tractor the engine runs good and strong.
I have done some research and heard talk about the body control module but i dont think thats the problem in my case. Another thing that came to mind was the alternator but i don't seem to have any problem cranking the engine over and the battery is never dead.
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I have a engine code for evap sensor sometimes this can be ignored but this is causing me to keep cranking my car in order to start up what should I look for I know there's solenoid and charcoal canister and gas cap which one could be keeping my car from starting the first time.
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Don't have a clue what's happening here or where to begin looking but about 20 seconds after cranking the truck ALL my instrument panel gauges go dead, radio goes dead (nothing on it's display) and my driver door controls all stop working simultaneously. Funny thing though, I can still see what the computer sees with my edge insight that's plugged into my OBD2 port and all those read as normal. The engine still runs and I can drive with no issues. My headlights still work fine as do all my signals.
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My wife's 2011 F-350 on start up, will sweep the gauges from one side to the other. My 2012 doesn't, is that normal?
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My jeep is 6 months old. From day one it has erratic starter problems. Often when starting it, the starter keeps on cranking after I let go of the key! The ignition switch visually returns to the run position, but is electronically stuck in start mode. When this happens I quickly shut off the ignition and try again. Jeep cant duplicate the problem, and says Chrysler has no bulletins about this.
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So this problem came about after I changed the timing belt on my wife's 05' elantra.
The idle will bounce from 1.5k to 3k exactly and continue this for as long as the car is on. Some times it will stay at some point within that range for around 2 seconds then continue to bounce.
I checked the belt today, and it seems to be tight enough but not to loose either...maybe I screwed the timing up? But would that cause this problem?
Here is what I have done:
Replaced the IAC valve
Cleaned the MAP sensor (no MAF sensor on this engine, that I know of...)
Checked and cleaned the spark plugs
Cleaned all electrical terminals
Checked the resistance in the throttle control sensor
Checked for vaccum leaks with carb cleaner
Cleaned PCV valve (3 times)
Replaced Air filter
Probably a few things I am missing in there, but nothing has been a success.
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My car, a 00 accent 1.5 gs with about 87,000 miles, manual trans, feels like its bouncing or like the ground is uneven when its not. This happens when I'm driving. It accelerates normal but when I put it in third gear it has a bounce like motion. It even happens when I am coasting and actually in all gears. I know my shocks and maybe my springs are no good but I don't think that's the problem. I have no clue what it is. It was happening before but i have been noticing it more often. I wonder if its the axle on the left side due to a ripped cv boot.
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I just picked up a 2004 1.8T 5 speed 4 motion. It drives well, however i noticed some bugs. For one, the temperature gauge seems to bounce up and down a bit. I check the vag, and the car never gets abobe 75c, and usually sits around 70c when im cruising on the highway. So i changed the green top sensor to start, and I think it may be wrong, cause now the engine fan always stays on, and the temp problem is still there. SO now I have this fan issue, and still a temp problem. Did I change the wrong sensor totally? Is it my thermostat?
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I've replaced the serpentine belt on a 06 Pontiac G6 (6cyl) and I noticed at idle the tensioner has a slight bounce to it... Is that normal? It goes away when you hit the gas. Apparently the tensioner was replaced less than a year ago
I attached a short video. [URL] ....
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I have about 45,000 miles in my R and all of the sudden the fuel gauge is doing funny things. It seems that when i have about 1/4 of a tank of fuel left, the gauge will bounce around from almost empty to 1/4 on perfectly flat ground. Example i get out of the car with 1/4 of tank left and 60 miles till empty.
When I come out a few hrs later. It shows 20 miles, refuel and the gauge bounces. Yesterday it did it just below 1/2 a tank. The R is going to see my local friendly Vw dealer to see if they can figure it out. A few months ago had the 40K service done and I don't think this had anything to do with it.
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I have never owned a full size truck and I don't know what is normal. I found a nice 2003 FX4 Lariat with 104,000 miles. The truck was a one owner truck and spent most of its life in Mission Texas, and a short part of the time in San Diego. At any rate during the test drive I was really liking it, but then I merged onto a highway made of concrete--it was like riding on a washboard road. The bouncing was so bad that there was no way I would buy that truck, felt like an old hard tail Harley. I thought it was just bad shocks, as they were kind of bad, and the ride a little float-like, but then I found a few posts on bed bounce.
The manager said he would put new shocks on it and check the wheel balance. I told him I would do a little research and get back to him. The truck is nice for its age, but I could not handle that bounce, especially since California has so many concrete freeways. Is there any solution? I have read a few posts, but mosts were old, and offered no resolution. 2003 F-150 FX4...
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Quite literally just received the buyout agreement yesterday. My wife went out this morning to leave and the car turned over a couple times but wouldn't start. I went out and tried it and it would turn over, the engine would (pretty violently) bounce, but wouldn't start. The 4th or 5th try (as you see in the video below) started. Turned it off and tried again and just click, click, click. Seems like a classic case of a dead battery? Not seen a GTI react so violently to having a low battery before though...
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Every time my wipers go they chatter or bounce on the glass as they go across. Even when there is a TON of water on the windshield it will still do this... though not as much. It seems to happen more at the bottom of the wiper.
I don't know if it is a design flaw with the wipers, if I just have a bad set of blades, or what could cause it. In the past with other cars I have only had this problem when I tried to wipe dry glass.
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I was driving my Oldsmobile the other day and the speedometer needle seemed to "bounce" up and down and then stop. I removed the cable and it is intact I can spin it and the other end spins. I jacked the rear end up (both wheels off the ground and started it up and put it in HI. I did not see the output shaft turning. Which leads me to ask a whole bunch of questions. Can I get a new output shaft (aftermarket) or do I need to find another Hydramatic and cannibalize it. I also wonder if the fact that two years ago my speedometer cable came loose at the transmission and the road wore the end off so I replaced the core with an aftermarket one'
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I purchased a used 2008 F150 with 62,000 miles. The truck is in excellent condition and is a crew cab with the short bed and the 4.6 v8 engine. I changed the 17 inch wheels to a set of Ford 18 inch wheels with Goodyear tires that came off another 2008 F150( XLT model). The tires had less than 15,000 miles on them. Since that time I have replaced 3 of the 4 tires because I could not get the tires to balance out properly. I have had all the tires and wheels balanced with the road pressure balance and the front and rear end have both been aligned.
I cannot get the RIGHT REAR of the truck to keep from bouncing and hopping at almost any speed. It changes from day to day a little bit but while slowing down I get the hop vibration( when I apply my brakes) and while at speed ( mostly 45-55) and above 65 I can constantly feel the truck vibrating. It is apparent it is the right rear. I took it back to the dealership where I bought it used , they could not find any issue. At some time, the rear cover to the rear end has been taken off but I cannot find any information through normal channels as to why.
I was by the shop that balanced the tires it is a Goodyear problem. All I know is that I cannot enjoy my ride due to this very apparent hop/bounce from the rear end. The alignment shop said they could not do anything more to make it better. Is there a FIX to this? Is it a problem with this model truck? The truck has 69,000 miles on it now.
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Winter is here and its the first winter i've had my 2006 Passat 3.6l. After a long night of freezing weather i attempt to open the door. After getting it loose, It wont seal close. When i shut the door it will just bounce off and open again.
My temp solution is to hold the door closed and press the lock key. The door then partially locks closed and then i have to pull it hard to make the seal close completely.
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I am having an issue with my speedo and the fuel gauge on my 2002.5 24v vr6. First it started with a speedo that would bounce and dance around. it went away then came back and so on for awhile. Then i notice the fuel gauge would go up or down and would flash that i need to fill as I would go around turns. Also the odometer doesnt work either. I know that the vss could be the cause.
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I have an '08 Accord Cpe with a V6 and 5-speed auto. transmission. When driving on a level stretch of road trying to hold the speed at 40mph the engine speed will bounce up and down between 1400 and 1700 RPM. The engine is warm. The transmission feels like it is trying to up-shift and make the car go faster thus nearly impossible to hold the speed at 40mph. If I put the transmission in 3rd gear so it can't shift up there isn't this problem. I have also noticed a lugging or hesitating when trying to accelerate when the engine is cold. I wonder if these are related issues?
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I've got an automatic transmission 2002 elantra 2.0 that I purchased in 2009. About a year after owning it a weird problem developed that I've just sort of lived with since. Between 25-40 mph my RPMs occasionally "bounce" persistently by an amount between 500 (mild) and about 1000 (severe). There's a bit of fluctuation insofar as what RPMs/speeds it happens at depending on outside temperature and how warm the engine is (higher temps correlate with this issue happening at higher RPMs and a more pronounced fluctuation), but it's a consistent issue every time I drive. It *seems* like my car is always trying to push down the revs, hits a certain low point depending on the gear/speed, then jumps up just a bit only to edge back down. Lather, rinse, repeat. It's not simply a display problem as I can feel and hear the engine revs changing.
No fluctuations at idle. Above 3000 RPMs it's ALWAYS smooth sailing. When I'm actively accelerating there's never a problem, even if my acceleration stays in the revolution problem range. The car is never in danger of dying, but if the cruise is engaged (ESPECIALLY in the 25-30 MPH range at operating temp) the car shudders uphill - I assume this is because the RPMs dip a bit too low for the gear the car is in. If I press the throttle the car responds normally. This bouncing RPM issue itself NEVER causes the car to shift gears in response, and if it's happening and the car DOES shift everything works fine until it goes back to trying to maintain RPMs in the problem range. When it happens I usually just increase speed by 5MPH and it goes away, though if the car is warm and the speed limit doesn't allow me to go fast enough to get out of the problem range it just does the same thing at the slightly higher RPMs.
When the problem started my car threw an OBD code - I didn't read it myself and brought the car to a random service shop who SAID they changed the throttle position sensor, and the code was gone, but a few days later it was doing the same thing without throwing a code. I tried changing the fuel pump thinking it was a fuel delivery problem, but that didn't solve anything. I put seafoam in the fuel system monthly so I'm fairly certain that fuel system gunk isn't an issue. The symptoms haven't changed AT ALL during the 6+ years this has been happening.
The kicker is that a few years ago I found a SUPERB mechanic - the first one I've ever actually trusted to be not only competent but also honest. Described the problem and even demonstrated it to him. When I brought in my car to have the struts and mounts replaced he spent two days trying to figure out what was causing the RPM issue too... and couldn't nail it down.
Possibly related: after starting the car - regardless of how long it's been running - there's a brief delay between pressing the gas pedal and the engine responding. Delay seems *slightly* longer the colder it is outside, but it's never more than a second and a half. No further delays unless I shut the engine off and turn it on again. Replacing the fuel pump didn't affect this matter whatsoever.
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I am getting two codes, p0171 and p0401. Both point to something with the fuel are mixture I believe. My problem is that I can not figure out what the problem is. As far as I can tell there is not a vacuum leak. My MAF sensor looks clean and close to brand new. The codes come on and the car seems to want to jump. It does not stall, just starts to bounce a little until I let off the gas. And it does not do it until the car is warmed up. 2001 Santa Fe .....
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Our 2006 Grand Caravan has an intermittent electrical issue which causes the dashboard dials to bounce up and down, headlights to flicker, and the odometer and other digital displays to go in and out. Also, the radio will go on/off during this symptom.
Symptom has escalated to a point that on a couple of occasions at a stop sign or stop light, the car has actually stalled. Starts again fine.
Seems to happen more while idling or at slower speeds but does also occur less severely on the freeway.
Alternator and battery have both been replaced, and the symptom disappeared for a couple of months after replacing the battery.
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