Ford - Explorer :: 2002 - Windshield And Side Windows Taking Forever To Clear Up When Foggy
Oct 26, 2012
I got an 02 explorer xlt with the manual heater control and I've noticed now that it's getting colder it seems like my windshield and side windows are taking forever to clear up when they are foggy. When I put my hand up by the window or the vents for the driver/passenger side windows there's barely any air movement, and that is even when the blower is on the maximum level.
Another thing I've noticed is if I set it to floor only, it blows out the defrost. Same for the defrost only, I can feel some air blowing onto my feet. So what to look for when I pull this into a garage and start to looking around. I also changed the coolant and put in a new thermostat about a month ago, if that's of any importance.
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I have a 1997 explorer 5.0 AWD. The problem is that when it is about 44 degrees and below, the windshield wipers, power windows, and interior lights don't and won't work. We will run the heater until it warms up the interior, then everything seems to work fine. I usually leave the wipers on so I know when it is warmed up enough. I have checked all of the fuses and all are fine. the only thing that I can think of is there is a crack in the back of the fuseblock that breaks contact when the metal is cold.
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So, I don't know if any of these problems are related but a few months ago, I accidentally put diesel fuel in my car. We got it flushed out (used some fuel injector cleaner and filled the tank up to dilute what fuel was left after i siphoned it) and my car was doing fine. Then my car started running really shitty, just taking forever to accelerate, revving really hard when I gassed, but not going fast at all, so we changed the spark plugs, oil, and transmission fluid and now it drives forward just fine, but will not reverse. all it does is move forward a bit then stop. It will drive in neutral up to 20-25 mph. What might be wrong??
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My wifes 2002 explorer stopped taking fuel at the gas station. You can only put about 1/10 of a gallon in before it clicks off. I have already dropped the tank and checked the fill and vent tubes, and looked inside both of the charcoal canisters on top of the tank. Everything looks perfectly fine?
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I was told by the dealer it would be over 150 to scan and do a fuel trim on my 02 Explorer, XLT, 4.0, Auto. I can't afford the scan or a garage. I paid 4200 for it and a short time later it starts surging at stop lights then it starts sputtering when idling and taking a while to start. Next it stops accelerating past 2.5k, then works well a bit then stops accelerating past 50 miles an hour. Then it works with an 02 disconnected then starts acting up again. It now either runs normal, wont accelorate past certain ranges, or starts then quits 3 seconds later, unless I unplug the MAF then it runs 15 seconds then stalls. Through all this symptoms come and go. Always banks 1 and 2 lean.
Symptoms
Knock
Rough Idle
Slow Starts
Hesitation
Lag
Stall
Replaced
02 Sensors
Fuel Filter
Injectors
Plugs
Plug Wires
Tested
Maf
TP
Temp Sensor
Cam Sensor
Crank Sensor
All EGR Components
Idle Valve
Coil Pack
For any air leaks.
Fuel pressure 37 or higher
Clean Fuel Pump Strainer
Flow tested pump
Checked air filter
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Having a problem with the windshield getting fogged up at three or four areas at the bottom, when the air is on?
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I got off work at 4:30 pm the other day, and came out to my new (for me) 2009 car, and the front windshield was foggy. No other windows were foggy in my car, and no windows were foggy on any one of the 50 cars in the parking lot, b/c I checked every one as a slowly cruised around the parking lot before I left for home.
I'm 55 yrs old, and have never had a car do this on a sunny, warm day, in late afternoon, with relatively low humidity in the outside air. The windows were rolled up, yet that should not have been the main source of the problem. The windshield was not a little foggy, it was completely fogged up.
It had also been foggy that morning, but so were the other windows, b/c it was a cool, clear morning, and at 7:00 am on a morning like that, it is expected to have some window fog...but not at 4:30 pm after it's been sunny all day, and become warm!
What could cause this?...a windshield that is not sealed properly, or what? I did use the defroster that morning, and it worked fine, btw.
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I have a 2010 Sonata GLS 4 cyl and I have a problem with foggy windshield (on the inside). I have noticed it now and temperatures outside are about 85F with 70% humidity. I don't use AC, I just use defogger and my windshield gets foggy.
I also see water underneath the car coming from the front side, I am not sure if this is related. I googled a little bit the problem of foggy windshield and some say it could be broken heater core. Do you think it could be heater core?
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I did not find a solution to my 2011 Elantra GLS's windshield fogging up when it is raining. Other vehicles I owned would clear the foggy windscreen by simply turning the fan on the windshield setting. No A/C necessary.
However, when the Elantra fogs up while driving in the rain, it requires that I put the A/C on (not in recirc mode) to clear the glass. After it clears, I shut-off the A/C to conserve fuel, but after 30 secs or so, it begins to fog up again.
There is no apparent water in the car, or wet floormats, so I'm wondering what could cause this?
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Our 2006 Volkswagen Jetta TDI, with 227,000 miles, recently started to fog up inside everytime we drive it. The dealership cleaned the sunroof drains thinking that was likely the cause (although, the car is always garage parked). That did not resolve the issue. We have to have the defrost on full blast to be able to see out the windows, and still we need to roll back windows down to wipe condensation to see out of them when making a turn.
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I have a Sport trac and its killing me. The windows, radio, wipers and 4x4 does not work. I have checked all of the fuses and even replaced the GEM module and they are still not working.
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How to get into that bundle of wires going between the drivers door and body for a 2002 Sport Trac? I have a break in the wire that feeds 12v to the passenger windows. If I push the bundle backward the windows work. The flexible rubber jacket goes into a plastic housing and I'm not sure if I need to pull off the door panel and un-hook or unscrew it. Is there a connector inside that plastic thing?
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I just got my wagon (2002 used) and noticed that the chrome detailing around the back windows of my wagon were getting really foggy in the super humid weather. What is the solution? Wait for winter? I assume the high humidity is just causing condensation in the plastic/chrome or whatever and when I press my fingers hard to it it goes away (consistent with moisture). Can this be fixed? She is so adorable without these clouds!
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Ok, about a month ago my drivers door power window just ceased to work. (Sadly in the lowered position) I pulled the panel off, and examined the switch housing. By removing the terminals from a window that worked, and putting them in the drivers terminal, I determined that the regulator/motor assembly was bad. Fast forward to today, after wrestling with some issues, the NEW regulator/motor are installed. But here's the kicker, NO CHANGE!!! Still wont work!!! The fuse/CB is good, all other windows work. The switch test good when voltmeter applied...so now I'm stumped.
Its a 1994 explorer...
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My current issue is as such: I started my car the other evening after a long day at work to find that when I started the car (I always leave the heater/AC control in bi-level mode with the a/c on with the fan at low or not on at all, unless I need the floor heater or the defroster) the interior of the windshield as well as the side windows instantly became fogged up. It took close to 10 minutes for the windshield to defog. Upon arriving home from work, I checked the reservoir where the coolant is recirculated and found that it was bone dry.
After the vehicle had cooled down, I popped the radiator cap and indeed the radiator fluid level was down. I replaced close to a 3/4 gallon if not a tad bit more of 50/50 mix. The next morning I started the car and the problem was still there and it took a few minutes for the heater to heat the car. Last evening and then again this morning, after the engine cooled to ambient temp, i squeezed the upper and lower hoses and there was still coolant in both hoses and thought this was odd, but I started the car w/o the fan on and the problem seemed to go away, but I noticed it didn't take any time for the car to heat up. Taking all of these things into account, is this a heater core(no coolant in cabin) or water pump problem or simply a bad thermostat?
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My brothers window won't work from any of the switches and the locks won't work they only work from the driver side no window action though from either side, checked the fuse and relay but nothing.... 1996 Ford Escape 4wd....
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The windshield wipers on my 2010 F-150 do not wipe a clear path. I have tried several different brands of blades without any good results. It is like the blades have to have more tension against the glass. Is there a way to increase this tension?
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I have a factory remote start. Not sure if I have an issue or not but at what point does the fan come on automatically to clear the windshield? It was -9C this morning and when I went out after about 5 minutes there really wasn't any air coming out of the vents.
Does the truck have to warm up to a certain temperature before it starts to blow air to clear the windshield? Doesn't tell me much in the manual.
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I have an 02 Avalanche 1500 4wd z71. It has 173000 miles. Noticed a clunking noise under driver side when slowly taking off. If I floor it there is no sound at all. This only happens when vehicle is on 2wd mode. If I put it on auto 4wd there is no more clunking. The noise sound like two pcs of bare metal are hitting each other. What this could be.
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I just got delivered a 7.3L from down south. Batteries were dead so replaced both. Fuel was a couple notches above red line (much closer to red line than 1/4 tank) so I added about 7-8 gallons.
It will crank forever and ever...Won't start.
With starter fluid it starts but not strong enough to pump the pedal and rev it up to keep it idling.
I know s-fluid is bad but if I continuously spray with key turned forward it will run but as soon as I let go of key it shuts off.
20 degree weather and it was delivered to a parking lot so I cannot plug it in.
Was told to check filter cap, turn key, and see if it fills bowl with fuel....if not then it is fuel pump. Someone else mentioned that it could be bad crank position sensor? Does this sound like fuel pump?
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Need to clear codes after doing a lot of work on this used Eddie Bauer With the 4.6 engine. Is there a procedure to clear the codes to get a new reading?
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