Ford - Explorer :: 2002 - Surging At Stop Lights / Sputtering When Idling And Taking A While To Start
Oct 25, 2012
I was told by the dealer it would be over 150 to scan and do a fuel trim on my 02 Explorer, XLT, 4.0, Auto. I can't afford the scan or a garage. I paid 4200 for it and a short time later it starts surging at stop lights then it starts sputtering when idling and taking a while to start. Next it stops accelerating past 2.5k, then works well a bit then stops accelerating past 50 miles an hour. Then it works with an 02 disconnected then starts acting up again. It now either runs normal, wont accelorate past certain ranges, or starts then quits 3 seconds later, unless I unplug the MAF then it runs 15 seconds then stalls. Through all this symptoms come and go. Always banks 1 and 2 lean.
Symptoms
Knock
Rough Idle
Slow Starts
Hesitation
Lag
Stall
Replaced
02 Sensors
Fuel Filter
Injectors
Plugs
Plug Wires
Tested
Maf
TP
Temp Sensor
Cam Sensor
Crank Sensor
All EGR Components
Idle Valve
Coil Pack
For any air leaks.
Fuel pressure 37 or higher
Clean Fuel Pump Strainer
Flow tested pump
Checked air filter
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The car died on me the other day at a stoplight but started up again (It resisted for a sec but then caught). Now it's taking a bit to start and sounds very faint when it finally catches and the turn over is slow. I'm no mechanic but I can replace parts. I'm just wondering if it's the fuel pump or injectors, maybe low fuel pressure. I haven't had a chance to do anything to it. Where to start?
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I have a 2008 4wd V8 Ford Explorer Limited. About 9 months ago I had both front wheel bearings replaced. Immediately after they were replaced, I noticed a strange, new symptom. When taking off from a stop (either headed straight or turning), about 10-20% of the time I will get some wheel slippage.
I can feel the gears slipping, I don't think the tires are actually spinning and I'm definitely not flooring it and losing traction due to engine torque. When this slippage occurs, the loss of traction light goes on, and it always goes away in a matter of seconds and then everything is fine.
Once I noticed this happening I took it to the Ford dealership but they couldn't diagnose it since I couldn't mimic the problem with them riding in the car. They said it shouldn't have anything to do with the wheel bearings they replaced, but I think there may be an electrical connection that wasn't re-attached properly??
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2005 5.4L She would have a hard time starting before but after I replaced and fixed everything below she was running really good. Now back to sputtering, taking a long time to start and now not starting at all.
I have replaced; Fuel Pump, Fuel Filter, FPDM, Plugs and COP's, FRP Sensor, followed the power wire from the FDPM and found it corroded bad so I replaced it, also changed the ground location on the FDPM, I have checked all the wires from the FDPM to the drivers seat, checked all fuses.
I have power to FPDM and I have the diagram for the plug but how can I test (hotwire) the Fuel Pump without lowering the fuel tank? What should be the voltage coming from the FPDM plug? not sure about pin 1 & 6.
How can I test the FRP sensor? what are the specs for voltage?
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My wifes 2002 explorer stopped taking fuel at the gas station. You can only put about 1/10 of a gallon in before it clicks off. I have already dropped the tank and checked the fill and vent tubes, and looked inside both of the charcoal canisters on top of the tank. Everything looks perfectly fine?
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Well i have a 1992 for explorer 4.0 all lights seem to dim kinda surging at idle or coming to a stop. Has new battery, battery cables nice and tight new alternator. My Volt gauge on my cluster jumps from 12 to 14 volts. battery light flashes seems to be getting worse. Was having similar issue about 1 year ago found a injector giving up. Replaced injector and worked good for a while. Wondering is it common to have that issue with injectors causing these issues. Doesn't seem likes its missing firing.
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I got an 02 explorer xlt with the manual heater control and I've noticed now that it's getting colder it seems like my windshield and side windows are taking forever to clear up when they are foggy. When I put my hand up by the window or the vents for the driver/passenger side windows there's barely any air movement, and that is even when the blower is on the maximum level.
Another thing I've noticed is if I set it to floor only, it blows out the defrost. Same for the defrost only, I can feel some air blowing onto my feet. So what to look for when I pull this into a garage and start to looking around. I also changed the coolant and put in a new thermostat about a month ago, if that's of any importance.
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I have a 1998 Ford Explorer. It was running fine until last Mon. On my 3rd start of the day , it wouldn't stay started long enough to get into gear; sometimes it sputtered violently. I tried starting over the next 2 days with the same outcome so I towed it to mechanic. They replaced spark plugs, wires & started (because it was throw lower voltage than normal). It ran fine the short distance home. The next day, it started fine but sputtered in corners/lower speeds. About 12 miles into the drive, which was at ~60 mph, my auto died and wouldn't start again. What's going on? Could it be the fuel pump?
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I have recently come across a strange problem. Only occurs after car has been turned off and sitting for 1-2 hours. Weather not affecting and sitting overnight, car starts normal and nice.
After the 1-2 hours of sitting, engine will turn over not the 2 or 3 usual times for ignition, but needing 10-12 times to finally start. Then it starts very poorly by making a sputtering sound and only idling at 200-500 rpms, instead of the usual instant 1000 rpms. This is very annoying and a few times the engine has turned over 10-12 times and didn't start at all. When a person starts the car up every 1 to 2 hours, say on a busy errand weekend, it pretty much occurs each time. When my wife uses the car just in the morning for work and at the end of the work day, it is not noticed for some reason....
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2000 with the 5.4 liter ... 263,000 miles ...
My old girl tends to spit and sputter especially when taking off from a stoplight. I put my foot in her and get the rpm's around 3000 and she starts acting right. Is it something more than say the obvious spark plugs or fuel additive??
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I purchased a used 2002 Camry [above model] with 99K miles on it in March, 2009. This is my 3rd Camry as the first, 1986 had 256K and the 1997 had 252K. I was very pleased with the 86 & 97 and very displeased with this new one!
I have problems with the engaging stalling, surging at stop signs as well as problems at about 40 mph.
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Got a problem with my R. 134k miles. About 4 months ago I had similar problems and was told it was a bad MAF. Of course wasn't covered by my warranty, so I decided to just give it a good cleaning and car ran fine up till now. Just started doing the same thing today. Doesn't want to idle, taking off is really hesitant then it just goes. Trans seems like it is struggling to find the correct gear sometimes when coming to a stop or taking off, sometimes jerks hard, maybe throttle position sensor, or idle control? Once you are moving it drives fine, only very low speeds and idling are the problem. Trying to avoid going to the dealership. What this could be? MAF need cleaned again or just replaced?
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I've had this passat since it had 103k. Now at 167k. It's ran good. Til now. Lately its been having a problem starting. Goto start it and it takes a good 15-20 secs to start. Eventually starts but had a couple times when it started the engine would act like it was going to die then eventually stay running. I've noticed when the car sits for awhile. About 3-4 hours or more it starts ok. But say I run to the store and let it sit for 20 min to a hour then I have problems starting it. Had a local store test battery, starter, and alternator and everything tested fine except the starter failed on startup but then passed after the car was running for a min. So replaced starter. Still having starting issues. Recently I have changed the spark plugs and valve cover gasket.
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I have now replaced hpop, injectors, cups, gpr, batteries, uvch on both sides, icp and ipr on my 2002 F550 and it still has a long crank to start.
It has been driven about 1,000 miles since then and no change. I have no codes except buzz test produced a high to low 1272 1274 1276 1278 one time. Cannot get that to happen again.
It is taking 4 seconds of cranking to start consistently hot or cold. It always starts but cranks for what seems like too long compared to my other 7.3s. I have included a screenshot of the data and am curious on what everyone's thoughts are as I am out of things to look at!
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I have a 2007 Ford Ranger Sport with 85000 miles. Just yesterday, it started sputtering while idling, as if I was out of gas, but I'm not. The cabin shakes a bit sporadically with the sputtering sounds. It seemed to go away somewhat when I'm driving, but I could just be confusing it with the bumps in the road. Then, when I'm accelerating, there are occasional pulses in the acceleration. Today, the blinking engine light came on briefly just before I got back home.
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My '02 Explorer transmission is giving me a little trouble. The vehicle has 240,000 miles, but the transmission has been rebuilt several miles ago. I recently had the fluid changed, and I had them add a bottle of Lucas Transmission Fix, which I have had good luck with in the past. Most of the time, the transmission behaves normally.
Occasionally however, when I come to a stop after driving for a while, the transmission stops pulling, like it has shifted into neutral. Sometimes it will re-engage after a couple seconds, and sometimes I try to hurry it along by shifting to Park, then back to Drive and it will go. If I am on an incline, and the vehicle does this, it will actually roll down the hill.
Hopefully there is a simple fix because this thing is too close to the end of its life to require a hefty repair investment! Maybe a switch or a sensor. I'd love to tell you that I checked the fluid level, but Ford forgot to put a transmission dipstick on it.....
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Last November my car began stalling while idling at stop lights. It didn't happen all the time, just occasionally. The car would start back up without too much difficulty. I took it to a GM dealer who cleaned the throttle body and decarburized the intake and exhaust valves. They also removed an aftermarket security system which had been installed by the previous owner which they claimed may have interfered electrically with the engine. They reported a history of code P0128 (thermostat sticking open) being stored in the ECM. I did not have the thermostat replaced.
The work the dealer performed did not resolve the issue. During the winter, I've been letting the car warm-up for a few minutes before driving. While warming up, the rpms will sometimes increase or decrease 200-300 rpm then return to normal idling a few seconds later. Sometimes when the rpms dip down low enough, the engine sputters and either recovers or stalls. On most days I don't have any issues and the car runs fine. The check engine light sometimes comes on while this happens, and sometimes it doesn't.
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The problem starts after about 5-10 mins of start up and normal driving. First signs usually come leaving a stop light or stop sign. Hesitation, jerkiness, rough acceleration. It's usually slight, just enough to feel it. Soon it really shows up while keeping the truck at a steady speed, say 40 for example.
I finally heard what I would describe as a puffing air sound and figured vacuum leak.. finally! Nope.. it's coming from the rear underneath of the vehicle. I can't hear it in the engine, or the tail pipe.
2002 Ford Explorer xls 4.0 125k miles, I've replaced the air filter, egr valve, pcv valve, cleaned the maf and covered about every hose I can reach with carb cleaner checking for a vacuum leak. I've yet to try some of the other things due to hearing that puffing sound.
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Engine revs excessively when I press accelerator to shift between 2 and 3 gear. It acts like the transmission is having problem "up shifting". However I had the transmission checked thoroughly and all checks out OK. New fluid, no leaks, compression good, bands good, no debris in housing etc. This engine rev also occurs while stopped at stop lights for no reason. (no acceleration, etc) I also notice the fan behind the radiator running at high speeds when engine is in idle mode. Fan revs and then slows and then revs again. Don't know if this is related.
Engine rev is not related to running the AC. It happens if AC is on or off. The fan rev and the engine rev are not the same sound or symptom.The vehicle runs fine when I first drive it on 40 mile trip to work in the AM. As the day goes on and the vehicle is driven more then the engine rev problem shows up. (again on an intermittent frequency). Question. Could a dirty fuel filter cause this engine rev. Question. What might be some things to check out to find and resolve this problem?
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Like the title says. 04 Explorer.
No transmission issues ever. Immediately after doing an oil change myself for first time, get some transmission dropouts, slipping out of gear at stop lights, waiting way too long to go into 2nd, etc.
Then, started getting OD off light, and service engine. Error codes show something about wrong setting for 2nd, 5th, solenoid error... a bunch of 'em.
Anyway, guy at parts store says I must have knocked a wire loose causing misreads between cpu and transmission. It's a real pain getting under there since I'm using jack stands, so exactly what I should be looking for or at least the exact name of a connector or something so I can look it up.
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The 4x4 lights do not come on. I have check all fuses. I have replaced my module still nothing. I guess I could try another module but dam I am really at a dead end before I have to take it to Ford dealer and get hosed.
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