Ford - Explorer :: 1998 - Sputtering On Start And Died On Highway
Jun 7, 2011
I have a 1998 Ford Explorer. It was running fine until last Mon. On my 3rd start of the day , it wouldn't stay started long enough to get into gear; sometimes it sputtered violently. I tried starting over the next 2 days with the same outcome so I towed it to mechanic. They replaced spark plugs, wires & started (because it was throw lower voltage than normal). It ran fine the short distance home. The next day, it started fine but sputtered in corners/lower speeds. About 12 miles into the drive, which was at ~60 mph, my auto died and wouldn't start again. What's going on? Could it be the fuel pump?
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I just got a new clutch and clutch slave cylinder in my 1998 Ford Explorer. Driving it home from the mechanic, I'm hearing a sputtering sound coming from what seems to be the lower part of the engine compartment. It sounds like a VW Bug exhaust. I've never heard this sound before. It's troubling that it has appeared now immediately following a repair. I presume there is a outside possibility that it's not the mechanics doing, but that seems improbable. (The engine was revving high right before the clutch blew out last week, so maybe those brief high revs caused some damage? I can't imagine that being the case.) Or was there something in the clutch repair process that could have resulted in this?
I made a recording of the sound here.......
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I have a 1998 Ford Explorer 4X4 two owner and only 63K miles. All service records including tranny flush. Tranny shifts fine, there are no "clunks" when shifting out of Park.The only symptom is an occasional bump or thud ( maybe more like a jolt )coming from underneath at the rear at highway speeds. Sometimes it is more pronounced than others. I don't believe RPMs change when this happens. Around town is fine and only at constant speeds above 55 which makes it difficult to recreate. I have checked for anything loose underneath ( incl spare tire ) and can't find anything.
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I was told by the dealer it would be over 150 to scan and do a fuel trim on my 02 Explorer, XLT, 4.0, Auto. I can't afford the scan or a garage. I paid 4200 for it and a short time later it starts surging at stop lights then it starts sputtering when idling and taking a while to start. Next it stops accelerating past 2.5k, then works well a bit then stops accelerating past 50 miles an hour. Then it works with an 02 disconnected then starts acting up again. It now either runs normal, wont accelorate past certain ranges, or starts then quits 3 seconds later, unless I unplug the MAF then it runs 15 seconds then stalls. Through all this symptoms come and go. Always banks 1 and 2 lean.
Symptoms
Knock
Rough Idle
Slow Starts
Hesitation
Lag
Stall
Replaced
02 Sensors
Fuel Filter
Injectors
Plugs
Plug Wires
Tested
Maf
TP
Temp Sensor
Cam Sensor
Crank Sensor
All EGR Components
Idle Valve
Coil Pack
For any air leaks.
Fuel pressure 37 or higher
Clean Fuel Pump Strainer
Flow tested pump
Checked air filter
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Truck died going 50 mph and would not restart. I turn the key to run and nothing. I can hear the injectors buzzing but it will not turn over or crank. I can jump from the battery and the truck will crank. However, it seems to be in limp mode. It will start off in 3rd gear and won't shift gear Tow/haul light is flashing.
The wire harness that goes down to the fan clutch is chewed up and frayed so I'm assuming that may have caused an issue. But i have unplugged the sensor to the fan clutch and it still won't start. I can hear the injectors buzzing but when I turn the key to crank it, it does nothing. Just clicks. I've cleared the codes and these keep coming back.
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I was driving on highway about 55MPH when I lost power suddenly. I was able to pull off, but did not have power brakes or power steering. Gas tank was near 1/4 gallon on the gauge, but sometimes my gauge is wrong, as I've run out 2x when I should have still had a few gallons in it.
At first I thought CPS, but I didn't have a spare with me to swap. Well, after an hour or so, I cranked it, and it would turn over but not even try to start. I floored the gas pedal and it fired up and I was able to get home.
During the no start issue, there was no oil pressure reading on the gauge and the tach was not moving, even though it was turning strong. There was no white smoke that I could see either.
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My truck died a few weeks ago on the highway had the hpop ipr valve and screen replace ran awesome for 2 weeks, shut it off ran into the store and it wouldn't start gave it a couple hours finally fired, started good the next 5 times go to start it the other day no start again, tried again 30 seconds later and starts trucks a 2006 with 226000km throwing no codes, I'm ready to go trade it off on a new one, where to start?
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I have a 4 cylinder '98 Toyota Camry with 82k miles on it. I got the car second hand from a family friend 7 months ago. About 3 months ago, my engine would sputter and then shut off when I'd start slowing down below 30mph and stopping at lights after I'd been on the interstate. Issue occurs only when I've accelerated quickly during that drive (ie accelerating hard to go up a hill to merge or to pass a slow car).
When I need to stop, if I'm fast enough to get the gear in neutral, hold down the break and rev the engine at the same time, then it most likely won't shut off. It's like trying to do CPR on my car... The spark pugs have been replaced, oil changed, and fluid levels checked but the problem still happens. What could be the problem??
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I purchased a 1992 Ford Explorer Eddie Bauer edition two weeks ago from a private dealer. Last week I went to start the car, and it started, but then turned off almost immediately. I dismissed it at the time saying I did not turn the key long enough or far enough because when I tried it again, it started.
However, this morning (05/06/14) it turned itself off again. It was on for about a second or two before it died. I started it again and pumped the gas. It started for me but it sounded rough like it might die again.
I am not sure how to fix this. The previous owner did not mention that there was any problem. I am thinking that I'll either need to replace the battery or the spark plugs.
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Yesterday I drove my mom's 02 explorer to the gas station to fill it for her. After filling, I started it. It ran for several seconds and then died. It wouldn't start right away, so I let sit for a half hour, and then it started and I drove it 10 miles home. What is going on?
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Was driving the other day and it just died and wouldn't start back up. It has fire and is getting gas. It's a 4.0 Sohc...
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95 850 died on the highway - now it cranks and won't start. I had it towed to a mechanic who later told me he didn't work on Volvos. He did however check for spark - good. Timing belt- good. I replaced fuel pump and relay - no go. One possible hint is the lights on the Sport/Econ switch no longer light up and the first light I saw when it died was the up arrow light on the dash. Last winter I cleaned and regreased the PNP switch. Would that have anything to do with it?.
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So driving on the highway my car died. It would crank but not start. Got it towed. This is what I have done to troubleshoot.
1. Swap ECUs. The car should start for a second and shut off because the car doesnt match with the ECU. Still just crank and no start.
2. Fuel pump still primes when I open the door. I also hear a weird air leaking noise when I reconnect the battery, but I think it comes from the fuel pressure regulator (which I think is normal).
3. Checked for current at the ecu wires, wasn't sure what to look for but it was getting numbers.
4. Battery had 12.1 volts running through it (Haynes said 12.5 but is that really much of a difference?
5. Checked spark plugs for spark. Pretty sure we did it right, but there was still no spark. We tried multiple times.
6. Scan car, get code P01314 twice (ECM error).
7. Try to clear codes, says Comm error.
Why am I not getting spark? and why is the ECU error occurring, because we tested with a new ecu, and there was still no start, not even for a second like there should be.
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I was sitting in a drive through line, and my 2002 Ford F-150 started spitting, sputtering and then died. I restarted it several times, not getting anything but the spitting and sputtering again and then nothing else. I was told by a friend it HAD to be the fuel pump, now I am being told it HAS to be the ignition coil. My friend is a shade-tree mechanic and now I am not certain I trust his judgement.
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My 4.2L died all of a sudden, it cranks but won't start. Checked the harness side to coil packs, pos. signal but no neg. Tried a code reader keeps coming back link error. Does this mean PCM is fried?
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I have a 98 pontiac sunfire with 130 k it died out last week while I was driving got a p0342 code I replaced the camshaft sensor still nothing I'm getting spark and I can hear the fuel pump click on.
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I've been fighting several problems with this car (1998 1.8t aeb 5 speed manual) I replaced the icm and coil packs just recently to fix an ignition problem. At least i thought the problem was fixed. Car was running good but still had an occasional loss of power and bucking.
Today I installed a new fuel filter and went for a drive to see if that fixed the problem. I get about a mile from my house and the car died at a stop sign. I tried several times to start it back up and nothing. I pushed it off to the side and left it there for the night, I'll go back in the morning to try to trouble shoot it.
Symptoms: I noticed that when I turned the key to the on position, the fuel pump relay would click and doesn't stop unless i turn the ignition off. The throttle body is also actuating at the same time, idle stabilizer? But its doing this with the engine off and key in on position. Also there is fuel pressure at the rail.
What would cause this? My only thought would be a failed ecu or possibly fuel pump relay (though I don't see how that would effect the throttle body).
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1998 explore will not start when hot will turn over sputter and die, after 15 minutes it will start right up that was last monday when it was 80 outside it now colder outside has not done it again, the only thing i have seen that temp gauge is not going past cold never getting to center it will try and drop back down...
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My son has a 2012 F250 King Ranch, 6.7 L.
Little info: Last Friday the inter-cooler hose blew. We changed the hose this past Saturday. The truck ran great all weekend. Last night leaving for work it started to sputter and then died. Got the truck to crank, ran great no sputter, but something under the hood sounded off. We drove it all the way back home. Killed it, re-cranked it, everything was fine.
This morning cranked the truck, ran fine for 5 min then died and would not crank. We decided it needed new fuel filters. Replaced the fuel filters, truck now cranks and idles great. When you mash the gas at it revs up then sputters like it would die, when you let off the accelerator it catches up and idles fine again. It cant be too much wrong, it ran great all weekend.
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My '98 was running fine. It had 272 miles on the tank of gas (from full) when I parked it nose down in the driveway last night. Went to start it at 5:40 in the morning and it would crank fine but wouldn't start. I'm thinking all kinds of things could be wrong. Finally checked for fuel at the fuel rail and nothing. Woke up the wife to assist. Had her turn the key to "ON" and the fuel pump sounded dry.
Put in a couple gallons of gas I had for the lawn mower and it fired up. Gas gauge was about 1/4 on level ground before adding gas. I talked to everyone at work who has an Explorer and they all have had the same thing happen. I'm hoping the fuel pump didn't get damaged from running dry.
I've never had this happen with my Ranger. It happened once on my Aerostar, but it was extremely low on gas and I let it sit idling in the driveway for a long time to bleed the cooling system. Normally, I get gas at 1/4 tank.
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I have a 1998 Explorer XLT with the 4.0 sohc engine.
Recently the truck started being difficult to start and takes a few times of cranking to get it going. Once running, it idles and drives fine on city streets and freeways. When trying to start it turns over fine but doesn't start. After a few times of that, it will finally start. Sometimes it will sputter out an die but then it will start right away and be fine.
It never starts right away when cold and when hot or after short trips its intermittent...Sometimes it will start right up...others it takes a time or two of cranking. I just replaced the fuel filter and it did not work. I am thinking the fuel pump but since its in the tank, I am hoping its not that.
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