2000 with the 5.4 liter ... 263,000 miles ...
My old girl tends to spit and sputter especially when taking off from a stoplight. I put my foot in her and get the rpm's around 3000 and she starts acting right. Is it something more than say the obvious spark plugs or fuel additive??
I was sitting in a drive through line, and my 2002 Ford F-150 started spitting, sputtering and then died. I restarted it several times, not getting anything but the spitting and sputtering again and then nothing else. I was told by a friend it HAD to be the fuel pump, now I am being told it HAS to be the ignition coil. My friend is a shade-tree mechanic and now I am not certain I trust his judgement.
View 13 RepliesMy 2000 Ranger standard 4.0 4x4, started spitting and sputtering the other morning just when i was gone up hills then it would quit doing it. The other evening it got to where it don't idle, missing very bad, and wouldn't even pull itself up a slight grade, and the wife said there was flames and sparks coming out the exhaust. Now it wont even try to start, it just turns over. I put a different coil pack, wires, and plugs, and still nothing. I pulled the gas line off the frame fuel filter and its shooting gas out, and I got gas to the check port on top of the engine.
View 5 RepliesMy son has a 2012 F250 King Ranch, 6.7 L.
Little info: Last Friday the inter-cooler hose blew. We changed the hose this past Saturday. The truck ran great all weekend. Last night leaving for work it started to sputter and then died. Got the truck to crank, ran great no sputter, but something under the hood sounded off. We drove it all the way back home. Killed it, re-cranked it, everything was fine.
This morning cranked the truck, ran fine for 5 min then died and would not crank. We decided it needed new fuel filters. Replaced the fuel filters, truck now cranks and idles great. When you mash the gas at it revs up then sputters like it would die, when you let off the accelerator it catches up and idles fine again. It cant be too much wrong, it ran great all weekend.
one morning my car was spitting and sputtering then ran fine once the engine light went off. So I took it to auto zone to check the battery and they said it was the dead and fusible link, even though no battery light was on. Afterward, i realized the fusible link was turnings because the battery light was never on and positive terminal was the issue. Ever since they put in the new battery and fusible link now the fusible link keeps blowing. the one thy put in lasted 1 day, then I had the positive terminal and fusible link replaced at Hyundai dealer which last 6 days then link broke again. I replace the link, start the car no battery light, I shut the car off and turn it back on, and link breaks again. I have tried this 3 times. I did make sure no wires were under the battery and all bolts were tight. I know some ppl say alternator but that is on opposite side of the car and fusible link is on top of the battery. there was no issue with the fusible link before replacing, which is why I can't see it being the alternator.
View 4 RepliesMy trailblazer started with the spitting and sputtering (misfiring) last week. Over 100,000 miles on it, ya, in need of a tune up. So for obvious reasons new spark plugs seemed to be the logical choice. If it wasn't the problem, it can't hurt to change them. Truck's SES light did not come on, but truck was running pretty crappy, more when it was cold than hot, but definetely a loss of power. There is also a slight exhaust leak starting, where abouts right now I haven't pinpointed, deaf in one ear so it's hard to tell where it is coming from.
So I had my brother in law install the new spark plugs. We took the old ones out and 4 and 5 cylinder plugs had oil on them. Ah great, valve cover gasket and the gaskets the spark plugs sit on (don't ask me, not a mechanic lol) need to be changed. Started with just the plugs for now. Started truck up, still had a bit of vibration on idle, like it would from an exhaust leak, but still didn't seem right . But an even more noticable loss of power when driving, truck doesn't seem to want to get above forty.
Now my SES light is flashing almost consistently unless I'm stopped (idled). It almost feels like the cat is clogged. Did smell a heavier than normal gas smell when changing out the plugs. I know that the flashing SES almost certainly means a misfire. But why would it all of a sudden come on after changing the plugs? Tomorrow I am going to my friends garage who has the scanner tool (not just the one that reads codes) to see if it is a bad coil pack and to see if there is a specific cylinder that is misfiring.
But there is something about that exhaust leak that is leading me to believe it is the culprit of my problems. Leak came first, then the misfiring. Could the cat be clogged, which blew a hole in the exhaust and cause a misfire? And the new plugs just made the misfiring worse to cause the SES light to come on? Is there anything else I should check besides a faulty coil pack and compression check (even though I should have done that when I changed the plugs, but live and learn).
ok,up to yesterday, my wife's car started and ran fine. but we had not driven it in about 3weeks, and it was on empty. well, my kids would listen to the radio and, i think, starting it while we were at work. anyway, they ran it out of gas. so put gas in it, 3gallons, turned the key on and off a couple of times to get a good prime. started it up, died, i figured not enough fuel, yet tried again. started, but started spitting and sputtering and idling really ruff, had to hold to the floor to keep it running. removed the maf. it started and did the same. finally, i held down the gas and brake at the same time, took off to the store, got gas, but it died half way there. got it to the pump, put more gas thinking that's the problem. nope, the same. got it home, but when i let off the gas, it idles like it's not getting fuel and dies. so, any clue what it is? remember, 3 weeks ago it ran fine.
View 1 RepliesWe got "bad" gas in Feb, 2016, had to replace entire fuel system. Haven't driven the truck but 4000 miles. Last week, she started spitting and sputtering and lost power. We could see fuel pouring out. NO CEL. Towed (AAA has paid for itself several times over with this truck) to dealer that replaced the fuel system, still waiting to hear from them. Does this sound like it should be under the warranty for the work they did? We have averaged a huge repair bill about every 3-4 months on this truck, 2011 F250 Lariat, 8cyl, 6.7L, since we bought it 2 years ago.
View 1 RepliesI have a nissan maxima 2000 that sputters and the problem is getting progressively worse. If I am at a stoplight or just stopped with the drive gear on the car sputters. It skips almost every second, but if i put in in park the it runs smoothly. Now I notice that it is sputtering even when I am driving( it was not doing it before). I have already changed the sparkplugs and cleaned the injectors. Now I am debating whether i should change coils and boots. The repair is quite expensive so i want to make sure I am doing the right thing.
View 5 RepliesI just got my 2003 excursion v-10 gas and its bad but when I'm towing my camper it weighs 8500 lbs empty and I'm trying to back it up on the beach the tranny ( when I'm in reverse ) starts spitting trans fluid out the vent on top ! went on fire twice ! the trans temp gauge never gets hot tho and other than that it works perfect, I was told this was a big problem?
View 14 RepliesI was told by the dealer it would be over 150 to scan and do a fuel trim on my 02 Explorer, XLT, 4.0, Auto. I can't afford the scan or a garage. I paid 4200 for it and a short time later it starts surging at stop lights then it starts sputtering when idling and taking a while to start. Next it stops accelerating past 2.5k, then works well a bit then stops accelerating past 50 miles an hour. Then it works with an 02 disconnected then starts acting up again. It now either runs normal, wont accelorate past certain ranges, or starts then quits 3 seconds later, unless I unplug the MAF then it runs 15 seconds then stalls. Through all this symptoms come and go. Always banks 1 and 2 lean.
Symptoms
Knock
Rough Idle
Slow Starts
Hesitation
Lag
Stall
Replaced
02 Sensors
Fuel Filter
Injectors
Plugs
Plug Wires
Tested
Maf
TP
Temp Sensor
Cam Sensor
Crank Sensor
All EGR Components
Idle Valve
Coil Pack
For any air leaks.
Fuel pressure 37 or higher
Clean Fuel Pump Strainer
Flow tested pump
Checked air filter
2005 5.4L She would have a hard time starting before but after I replaced and fixed everything below she was running really good. Now back to sputtering, taking a long time to start and now not starting at all.
I have replaced; Fuel Pump, Fuel Filter, FPDM, Plugs and COP's, FRP Sensor, followed the power wire from the FDPM and found it corroded bad so I replaced it, also changed the ground location on the FDPM, I have checked all the wires from the FDPM to the drivers seat, checked all fuses.
I have power to FPDM and I have the diagram for the plug but how can I test (hotwire) the Fuel Pump without lowering the fuel tank? What should be the voltage coming from the FPDM plug? not sure about pin 1 & 6.
How can I test the FRP sensor? what are the specs for voltage?
Back in January I drove my excursion about 1 1/2 hours or so and my tank had about 1/4 left. I shut it off and went to start it about 15 min. later. It did start but was sputtering. I shut it off and it started back up and ran fine. Drove another 1/2 hour... Shut it off, went to start I and it would only crank. Sounds like it isn't getting fuel. I also tried pressing he gas pedal thinking maybe a faulty IAC but that didn't work. I waited 1/2 hour and it started an ran fine. has not done it since... Always had more than 1/4 tank left.
This past weekend drove to the same place pulling my trailer. No issues at all. Coming home I live at the top of a big hill. My tank was at 1/4. Backed the trailer in and unhooked. Shut the ex down and walked away for 15 min or so. Went to put it in the garage and it started and sputtered, it did clear up after a few seconds and idled fine. I then shut it off. Tried to start it again and it would only crank. Waited a few min. and it started and ran fine. Does this sound like the fuel pump giving out?
- I have a scan gauge a checked for codes.... Nothing
- Garage kept hardly sees rain.
- Just over 95 k miles
- Only other thing is both times this happened it had sea foam in the tank
Napa says that bosch is the OEM pump. Is there a difference between motorcraft and the Bosch? Is one better? Could this also be a symptom of a crank sensor going bad or a cam sensor.
Took it in to my local mechanic that also has a v10 excursion. He hooked up fuel gauges and a computer to monitor the engine and codes while driving. He said everything is well with in the range of the specs. He will drive I for a coupl days to see if he can reproduce the issue. Where do I go from here with out just guessing what's wrong?
I have had a wet weather issue twice, once last fall and once this spring. Both times were very wet and damp conditions causing a sputtering and chugging and dying at lights, both times no codes and after drying out in brother's shop it went away. Now this weekend up at the cabin it reappeared, again very wet conditions. Replaced the MAF...no change. Sputtered and chugged my way home with it killing at most stop signs/lights. Finally got home and couldn't even back the TT up the driveway, it would kill. Finally threw numerous codes (misfire in cylinders 1 and 9, and misfire in first 1000 revolutions). I'm thinking COPs as the plugs are not that old and the little research I have had time to do suggests this also. If it is COPs, I have heard there are some to avoid and some that are recommended?
View 9 RepliesI have noticed this rubbing, not quite grinding sound/vibration when I take off and turn. For instance pulling out of a parking lot and turning either left or right. Truck will do it only after it's been driven a while. I originally thought it was just the limited slip ratcheting but recently just changed the rear axle fluid adding Amsoil this time. I did not add any friction modifier because I didn't think the Amsoil needed it. So after going on a 500 mile trip I find it is still doing it. The truck sits at the stock ride height and has stock size wheels and tires on it. What it could be ? It only happens in the turn, not while driving straight. It still sounds like the differential but just want to be sure.
View 7 Replies2000 7.3 Excursion. Truck ran fine on a 5 hour trip for family vacation. Pulled and to where we were going turn the truck off then what I had to do I came outside try to restart the truck for the next three days it would take 2 to 3 cranks before it was would start. Then on day number three tried six times and didn't start went to bed woke up the next morning and it took three cranks to start. drove it down to mechanic shop near me they have been troubleshooting and think it's an electrical issue the code is P1280; he said there were a couple other codes too and he would tell me what they were later but he never has. I took him a new CPS a new ICM and a new PCM, none of that fixed it. I am at my wits end here and really have to have my truck for work every day.
View 12 RepliesAfter putting my front end back together except new springs, new shocks, and new track bar, just to give everyone a little history of what I've done to it. I've had it for 8 months and maybe put 1000 miles if that because of working out of town a lot and the front end torn apart. I've noticed a louder roar coming from the rear end when taking my foot off the accelerator without pressing the brake. It feels like the tow button is engaged, but isnt. I have no issues with handling besides knowing it still needs alignment. I'm taking it to the dealership tomorrow for a 4 wheel alignment. It sounds and feels like I'm riding on mud terrain tires.
View 14 RepliesThis is a 1999 with 200k on it. It has a really bad hpop so valley is full of oil. Haven't removed the HPOP to inspect the non serviceable plug or the hpop gasket. doing that this week. This truck I just bought and it has aftermarket injectors so dont know the miles in injectors. once the oil leak is resolved I can then give the injectors the once over to make sure theyre okay. Question is how much of a stream of oil should I expect to see as the engine runs?
View 11 RepliesI was filling up at Costco and for some reason it was taking forever for the pump to stop. There was an attendant right next to me so I asked her if the pump has auto stop and she said yeah of course. I began telling her that it usually doesn't take this long to fill up and the next thing I know the pump started spitting out gas. So after I put the nozzle back on the pump I took out my camera and recorded the spill... after about 20 seconds I'm just holding the camera so it is pointed towards the ground, but you can hear a conversation I had with the attendant.
I know what you are not supposed to top off the car so to me the spill is much worse than topping off with the prius's bladder system. I was afraid to turn on my car and afraid of any damage that may happen.
I have a 2010 Sonata and the gas has been spitting back out when I'm refueling. I'm thinking there may be some sort of blockage in the fuel vent line. The problem is, Where that is... 2010 Sonata.
View 8 RepliesLast week I had the plugs, coils, valve cover gasket and fuel filter done my 2004 Ford Escape when the engine started misfiring and today it started to idle rough at a stoplight and it seemed like it was going to stall but didn't. I had it sit for about an hour and a half and the it did want to turn over like the battery did have enough cold crank to it but it did after a couple of times. It has come and gone for the last couple of hours. No warning lights are one either. It seems pretty close to what it was doing when it was misfiring. What it may be?
View 10 Replies