Ford Excursion :: Sputtering And Sometimes No Start
Apr 20, 2012
Back in January I drove my excursion about 1 1/2 hours or so and my tank had about 1/4 left. I shut it off and went to start it about 15 min. later. It did start but was sputtering. I shut it off and it started back up and ran fine. Drove another 1/2 hour... Shut it off, went to start I and it would only crank. Sounds like it isn't getting fuel. I also tried pressing he gas pedal thinking maybe a faulty IAC but that didn't work. I waited 1/2 hour and it started an ran fine. has not done it since... Always had more than 1/4 tank left.
This past weekend drove to the same place pulling my trailer. No issues at all. Coming home I live at the top of a big hill. My tank was at 1/4. Backed the trailer in and unhooked. Shut the ex down and walked away for 15 min or so. Went to put it in the garage and it started and sputtered, it did clear up after a few seconds and idled fine. I then shut it off. Tried to start it again and it would only crank. Waited a few min. and it started and ran fine. Does this sound like the fuel pump giving out?
- I have a scan gauge a checked for codes.... Nothing
- Garage kept hardly sees rain.
- Just over 95 k miles
- Only other thing is both times this happened it had sea foam in the tank
Napa says that bosch is the OEM pump. Is there a difference between motorcraft and the Bosch? Is one better? Could this also be a symptom of a crank sensor going bad or a cam sensor.
Took it in to my local mechanic that also has a v10 excursion. He hooked up fuel gauges and a computer to monitor the engine and codes while driving. He said everything is well with in the range of the specs. He will drive I for a coupl days to see if he can reproduce the issue. Where do I go from here with out just guessing what's wrong?
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2000 with the 5.4 liter ... 263,000 miles ...
My old girl tends to spit and sputter especially when taking off from a stoplight. I put my foot in her and get the rpm's around 3000 and she starts acting right. Is it something more than say the obvious spark plugs or fuel additive??
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I have had a wet weather issue twice, once last fall and once this spring. Both times were very wet and damp conditions causing a sputtering and chugging and dying at lights, both times no codes and after drying out in brother's shop it went away. Now this weekend up at the cabin it reappeared, again very wet conditions. Replaced the MAF...no change. Sputtered and chugged my way home with it killing at most stop signs/lights. Finally got home and couldn't even back the TT up the driveway, it would kill. Finally threw numerous codes (misfire in cylinders 1 and 9, and misfire in first 1000 revolutions). I'm thinking COPs as the plugs are not that old and the little research I have had time to do suggests this also. If it is COPs, I have heard there are some to avoid and some that are recommended?
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I have a 04 fx4. Was sputtering for awhile. The engine light came on. Now it won't start even with a boost. What it could be has 290 clicks.
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I have a 1998 Ford Explorer. It was running fine until last Mon. On my 3rd start of the day , it wouldn't stay started long enough to get into gear; sometimes it sputtered violently. I tried starting over the next 2 days with the same outcome so I towed it to mechanic. They replaced spark plugs, wires & started (because it was throw lower voltage than normal). It ran fine the short distance home. The next day, it started fine but sputtered in corners/lower speeds. About 12 miles into the drive, which was at ~60 mph, my auto died and wouldn't start again. What's going on? Could it be the fuel pump?
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My 2000 Ranger standard 4.0 4x4, started spitting and sputtering the other morning just when i was gone up hills then it would quit doing it. The other evening it got to where it don't idle, missing very bad, and wouldn't even pull itself up a slight grade, and the wife said there was flames and sparks coming out the exhaust. Now it wont even try to start, it just turns over. I put a different coil pack, wires, and plugs, and still nothing. I pulled the gas line off the frame fuel filter and its shooting gas out, and I got gas to the check port on top of the engine.
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2005 Ford F250 6.0 Diesel (bought new). Never had a problem with the engine until about a month ago. Engine has 220,000 miles on it. Oil and filters changed regularly. Ran low (not out) of fuel, started sputtering badly but not killing. Filled up with diesel. Ran better, managed to get home. The next day it was dead. Crank but no start. Since then I have done the following (not in order):
- Changed EGR
- Changed ICP
- Changed IPR
- Changed the STC fitting
- Changed all seals in the HPOP
- Changed glow plugs and harnesses
- Tested each fuse and relay
- Installed new batteries
- FICM tested 48V
- Changed motor oil and filter
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- Purged air from fuel line
- Replaced dummy plugs
- No codes
- Prayed the rosary
One month later, still crank no start. Thinking about using it as target practice with the AR-15.
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I was told by the dealer it would be over 150 to scan and do a fuel trim on my 02 Explorer, XLT, 4.0, Auto. I can't afford the scan or a garage. I paid 4200 for it and a short time later it starts surging at stop lights then it starts sputtering when idling and taking a while to start. Next it stops accelerating past 2.5k, then works well a bit then stops accelerating past 50 miles an hour. Then it works with an 02 disconnected then starts acting up again. It now either runs normal, wont accelorate past certain ranges, or starts then quits 3 seconds later, unless I unplug the MAF then it runs 15 seconds then stalls. Through all this symptoms come and go. Always banks 1 and 2 lean.
Symptoms
Knock
Rough Idle
Slow Starts
Hesitation
Lag
Stall
Replaced
02 Sensors
Fuel Filter
Injectors
Plugs
Plug Wires
Tested
Maf
TP
Temp Sensor
Cam Sensor
Crank Sensor
All EGR Components
Idle Valve
Coil Pack
For any air leaks.
Fuel pressure 37 or higher
Clean Fuel Pump Strainer
Flow tested pump
Checked air filter
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I have power to FPDM and I have the diagram for the plug but how can I test (hotwire) the Fuel Pump without lowering the fuel tank? What should be the voltage coming from the FPDM plug? not sure about pin 1 & 6.
How can I test the FRP sensor? what are the specs for voltage?
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What would cause a sputtering noise to come from the engine but only after a cold start meaning starting in the morning and after work but goes away after I drive for a min or two and doesn't come back until the next morning or after work. It sounds almost as if say you had a hole in your flange and drove it around. Its really weird it happens a few times a week for the psst 2 weeks but hasn't happens ever before that. Could it be the water pump in its way out? Oil levels fine fluid wise everything topped off.
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I always turn the key to 'on' for a few seconds and let the fuel pressurize and all the indicators light up. It doesn't appear to be the battery as it turns over strong, though I have not yet confirmed this is a Voltage reading. Once it kicks over, it seems to be choking or sputtering, unable to get up to idle. The second time, it does it again but gets past it and all is well...
I'm checking records now to see if the 30k mile service was completed. perhaps a tune up and new plugs would work?
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I have recently come across a strange problem. Only occurs after car has been turned off and sitting for 1-2 hours. Weather not affecting and sitting overnight, car starts normal and nice.
After the 1-2 hours of sitting, engine will turn over not the 2 or 3 usual times for ignition, but needing 10-12 times to finally start. Then it starts very poorly by making a sputtering sound and only idling at 200-500 rpms, instead of the usual instant 1000 rpms. This is very annoying and a few times the engine has turned over 10-12 times and didn't start at all. When a person starts the car up every 1 to 2 hours, say on a busy errand weekend, it pretty much occurs each time. When my wife uses the car just in the morning for work and at the end of the work day, it is not noticed for some reason....
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I have a 4 cylinder '98 Toyota Camry with 82k miles on it. I got the car second hand from a family friend 7 months ago. About 3 months ago, my engine would sputter and then shut off when I'd start slowing down below 30mph and stopping at lights after I'd been on the interstate. Issue occurs only when I've accelerated quickly during that drive (ie accelerating hard to go up a hill to merge or to pass a slow car).
When I need to stop, if I'm fast enough to get the gear in neutral, hold down the break and rev the engine at the same time, then it most likely won't shut off. It's like trying to do CPR on my car... The spark pugs have been replaced, oil changed, and fluid levels checked but the problem still happens. What could be the problem??
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2000 4runner SR5. This problem has been going on for a while, it comes and goes. The truck will start stalling out, sputtering along, then pick right back up. It is like the engine is being choked for gas. It never totally fails, I just lose all engine power for a second or two, then it picks back up. Then, the check engine light will turn on.
I thought the light might be for a gas cap, so I checked that first. Unscrewed the gap and hear a very noticeable "whoosh" air noise, like air getting sucked into the gas tank. After I adjusted the gas cap, the truck starts working as normal, runs great. For a couple weeks or so. Then the same problem. And the same fix has always worked as well - the gas cap trick, thus far, has worked every time (about five times).
I took it to a mechanic and they said the codes are for the throttle and I need a new throttle body for $1500 freakin dollars. I don't doubt the throttle could probably use replacing, but I don't think that's is what is causing this issue. If the throttle was the problem, it doesn't seem like it would be a problem that comes and goes. And why does the gas cap fix work?
Things I have replaced in the few years - fuel filter about a year ago, air filter recently, evap, O2, cat, timing belt, water pump, gas cap (about a month ago). Needless to say, I got a lot of $ into it. Think it could be fuel pump?
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I have a 2008 MK4 2.0 with only 53,000kms. At 40,000Kms I put new OEM spark plugs.
Just recently, every morning when I start the engine is sputtering and rough running. The engines want to die but I give a little gas, and run rough like it is only firing on two or three cylinders.
When it gets to the normal operating coolant temperature it runs without any problem and I can use the AC. Its only give me this problem on the first start of the day.
Does not have any MIL light on the instrument panel. I scan it with VCDS-Lite and do not found any fault codes. The only thing that's come to my mind is to change the Green Coolant Sensor.
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My Ex has started giving me trouble cranking over. I though that it might just be bad terminals so I replaced them with no luck. Every now and then when I turn it over it just clicks. Sometimes it does this two or three times and then starts. My guess is that its time for a starter, just want to make sure there is nothing else I should check first.
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My 6.8L is experiencing an issue. Truck hasn't been ran in a few months...it ran fine when it was parked and has sat longer than this with no issue before. Battery voltage fine...
I get in, insert the key, turn it over and it cranks but doesn't fire.., why is that, I wonder? I notice the SES never goes out before I crank the truck over.
I unplug the battery, tried to clear any fault codes with my handheld tuner (which there was nothing showing up) and turned the ignition on. I left the key in the on position but didn't try to start it. The SES lights never turns off.
I am assuming that if the SES light stays on, the ecu will not allow the truck to start...is that true? What components have an effect on the SES light when you first turn on the key?
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Actually 50/50 at 10 degrees and 100% below 0. Dash lights come on when I turn the key, but no cranking from starter. Not even a click. Sun shines on it for a while and it starts with no problem. Ground strap? Starter relay? Starter solenoid?
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