Ford - Explorer :: 2002 - Hesitation / Jerkiness And Rough Acceleration After 1st Stop - Air Sound?
Jul 5, 2013
The problem starts after about 5-10 mins of start up and normal driving. First signs usually come leaving a stop light or stop sign. Hesitation, jerkiness, rough acceleration. It's usually slight, just enough to feel it. Soon it really shows up while keeping the truck at a steady speed, say 40 for example.
I finally heard what I would describe as a puffing air sound and figured vacuum leak.. finally! Nope.. it's coming from the rear underneath of the vehicle. I can't hear it in the engine, or the tail pipe.
2002 Ford Explorer xls 4.0 125k miles, I've replaced the air filter, egr valve, pcv valve, cleaned the maf and covered about every hose I can reach with carb cleaner checking for a vacuum leak. I've yet to try some of the other things due to hearing that puffing sound.
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Started my car yesterday and as I was accelerating, it made a very loud noise. It sounds like normal engine acceleration noise, only ten times louder. It was present whenever I accelerated, but not when I was coasting or idling, and not when the car was in neutral. (It's a stick shift.) During acceleration, there was a little hesitation and a little jerkiness, but not horrible. The problem came on suddenly - no problems with the car before yesterday.
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have 2002 Explorer with 4.6l that stalled at a stop light and upon restart, there was noticeable ticking and a sucking sound. The exhaust regularly sucks your hand against the pipe. Ticking is from all around the engine. Exhaust smells like rotten eggs.
Son was driving and we just got it back to house so I do not know much more than that. Where to start to diagnose.
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V-10 getting a weird hesitation on acceleration and rough, sporadic idle. Fuel filter is brand new, spark plugs only have 8000 miles on them. If im just cruising and give it just a little gas it gets real rough and wont smooth out unless I give it more gas. What else could it be? Coil packs?
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2003 F150 5.4 72852 miles
I have a Rough Idle & sometimes a hesitation or stumble on acceleration. I cleaned the MAF & IAC motor & Air & Fuel Filters are new. I got a 20890 scanner & ran test 6 53 as suggested in many posts by BlueGrass. Here are My results & what They Convert to.
1 00F5 .3675
2 0051 .1215
3 0000
4 0000
5 00A3 .2445
6 0000
7 0000
8 0000
I'm guessing the cop's are ok & probably need plugs? I was hoping to just swap a coil. Too cold to do plugs & truck won't fit in my garage.
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My 2001.5 1.8T wagon w/ tip (stock engine, no mods) has always had an amazingly long "dead time" when I gas it hard from a standing stop. It's less noticeable when I'm in manual mode, but is downright scary in automatic mode in that I wonder if the car is ever gonna take off. When it does take off, it accelerates just fine and goes through the gears without a problem.
If I'm in automatic mode, no significant hesitation occurs if I first give it a little gas just to get going. The situation arises only when starting from a dead stop. I've read elsewhere (not here) that this model does hesitate on initial acceleration, but it seems more pronounced than in other b5's I've had as dealer loaners. Any way to cut down on or eliminate this?
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As I have experienced hesitation on acceleration from a stop, I found a TSB # L-SB-0154-10, that addresses this condition for the 2010 SC430. It was issued in 12/1/2010. I am not sure if it would apply to any other years. The TSB entails re-flashing he PCM with updated software.
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My extremely used Explorer was driven off the lot, and ran like a champ for 3 months. One morning, I started it up, and noticed a chugging sound. While backing it out of the driveway, the truck felt like it was going to rattle apart. This was a sudden change. When I hit about 40mph, and I'm in 3rd gear, the truck hesitates and chugs along. If I stomp on the accelerator, the truck will kick into 2nd gear, and stops chuging for a second, then the gear changes back to 3rd and the hesitation starts again. If I disconnect the battery for a few minutes, then connect, I can drive normally for about 10 minutes, then back to the surging/hesitation. I've heard this might be a problem with the oxygen sensors or the mass air flow sensor.
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Had my 09 Tiguan now for 3 months and I'm noticing that during cold weather in the mornings as I try to accelerate or keep a constant speed/rom there is a jerkiness/stutter to the vehicle. It doesn't seem smooth if I go I faster then it's not really felt.
This is felt right around 60km/hr.. Or slower.
Doing some research appears that this could be the fuel injectors - those were just done at the dealer under recall about 7montha ago or so by the PO. The Tiguan has 147k KM on it.
What could be a possible cause for this? I also see that seafoam could clean the carbon build up perhaps?
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I have 2007 explorer with the 4.6 V8....
Recently it started running horrible. Rough idle, drives badly, hesitation, etc. Check engine light is on, code P0171. I cannot find a vacuum leak, and i am pretty much at a loss. Before it started running poorly i replaced the thermostat, and flushed the coolant. I am assuming this is a coincidence.
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I have some major problems with my explorer. The idle is rough and accelerating is rough also. If I nearly put it to the floor it almost seems like it studders the power. it will feel great for a second that feels like it's less power for a second then more and less and more and less. When I'm sitting at idle, it will idle fine then after a minute or so it will bog way down and shake the whole vehicle. when that happens I give it some gas and it comes back to normal idle then it does it again after sitting for another minute. I've replaced spark plugs, wires, alternator, oil change and some tires. I've been told by many mechanics it could be the IAC Valve or the fuel pump or the fuel filter or a vacuum leak.
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I have a 2002 Camry xle v4. It has a hesitation at low acceleration. I've replaced EVERYTHING: Mass Flow Sensor, 2 O2 sensors, plugs, etc. This past weekend I changed the plugs again with a better quality than before and the hesitation went away....for 2 days! Now its back.
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My AC is working intermittently, best under acceleration, horrible in stop & go traffic. The dealership told me I need a new compressor clutch but the written estimate was to replace the whole compressor assembly. Replacing just the clutch isn't too bad, is it? I'm pretty handy and do a lot of my own work but I typically avoid the AC system. Replacing just the clutch doesn't involve draining the coolant or anything, right?
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I have an 02 5r55w 2wd that I'm on the fence about right now and not sure if I should try and fix myself or pay $990 for a used one with unknown miles and 90 day warranty..
I bought it with 160-164k with no 2nd gear, OD flashing. Took it apart, replaced some bands, planetary, servo piston(end broke off-think OD.
After that, everything ran fine. NOw at 195k it's doing the I believe 2-3 high flare, rpm's go up to I think about 4k before shifting, sometimes more.
It has no acceleration on the low end gears, sounds like a dang 18 wheeler in it's low gears taking off, then I believe when int band kicks in, it picks up some torq and speed and shifts fine after 2-3 (not always does it-mostly when having to dump on the gas a bit).
Had issues with it jumping forward while on the brake. I've been in an 03 explorer with a good trans and could tell right away mine is pretty weak...
I was looking at the servo bore sleeve piston fix for $200. Maybe that and a shift kit, would that fix the issues I'm having right now? I haven't had any OD flashing or any check engine light codes. Haven't hooked it up to check codes, not sure if it logs if it doesn't flash check engine first.
I'm starting a business and will be pulling a 4x8 and need to get this one replaced or figured out.
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1994 Ford Explorer; When I start it, if I don't step on the gas it will stop. If I give it some gas when I start it, the engine will race and then decelerates about 2000 rpms and keeps doing this, it does get better as the engine warms up. But the idle is really rough. It has new wires, plugs, vacume lines, oil change, air filter and battery. If I put the gas pedal to the rug, it will go from 4000rpm back down to 2000rpm and continue doing this as long as I keep the pedal to the metal. I had it put on an analyzer and it didn't read anything.
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I have a 2002 Hyundai Accent with a 1.5L SOHC and manual transmission, with 207,000 trouble-free miles on it.
I have recently noticed a hesitation under acceleration. It happens most frequently under hard acceleration under lower RPM, if I'm close to lugging the engine. The engine "hiccups," almost like it is missing a cylinder. It will hiccup 2-3 times until engine RPM's increase, then smooths out.
What the cause may be? Last changes: Plugs at 175K; Plug wires @ 160K, Fuel filter @ 100K, Timing belts at 60K, 120K, 182k. K&N air filter cleaned at 50K intervals, last time @ 200K.
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I recently bought a 2013 gx and noticed a few things.
1. At high speeds 50+ mph the car downshifts quite often during rapid deceleration.
2. When coming to a near stop but not completely, and accelerate moderately to fast, lot of times there is a jerkiness when stepping on pedal initially. Is this normal or could it be something with the differential gearbox?
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Lately I have been having some trouble with 2002 Oldsmobile Alero v6. When the car is sitting in park I have noticed that the engine idles roughly, And when I try to drive it, the car hesitates on the acceleration every now and then. Also the emissions light (the orange one) will come on for awhile and then dissapear. At first I though it was dirty fuel injectors so I added some Fuel injector cleaner, but that has not fixed the problem. I was thinking the park plugs may need replacing?
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I have a Honda Accord EX 4 cyl. 2002. It has sluggish acceleration and hesitation problems. I put in new plugs and that improved it some. My mechanic says I should pay him to clean the fuel injectors. What will work best? What needs to be cleaned? Would new plug wires work? Gumout? Big differences in cost.
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My 2002 Ford Explorer 4L V6 is running rough I found out why I just don't know what the piece is called because I need a replacement. Mine fell off and fell down the engine and melted quite a bit. Also the part number on my piece doesn't work anywhere, that I have typed it in. Mine has a Ford part number of 1L2U-9F764-AC. Also need to know the proper Ford number. I have a picture I found online with an arrow pointing to the piece I need.
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2007 explorer makes a grinding sound I feel in the gas pedal upon acceleration. Also hesitates when acceleration on highway.....
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