Ford - Explorer :: 2003 - Pinion Bearing Has Started To Go / Whine From Rear End
May 28, 2014
I have a 2003 explorer where the pinion bearing has started to go, now the rear is starting to whine. the truck is a 2003, its a limited, with the 4.6 v8 in it. I would like to swap the rear with another used one, rather than rebuild the diff. the car is AWD, has a hitch receiver so I would imagine it has the tow package, my question is could I grab a rear out of a non AWD explorer, or one that had the 4.0 in front of it? something with the same gear ratio but out of a similar, non exact car, it has the advancetrac in it with the push button on the center console.
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I have a constant whine going down the road with foot on the gas. Back off and it quiets up. At 2-3 MPH i think i can here a " tick- tick". Took the drive shaft off, wheels off ground, cover off and oil out. Spin wheel and i can hear a tick - tick, I think around the pinion bearing. No play up and down or in and out, but it appears to have 2-3 times the backlash i would expect. I used the screw driver- stethoscope--- still think its the bearing. This is a 9.75 axle. What kind of luck would I have pulling the yoke off and going in from the front without removing axles halves and ring gear? I thought I had read that here before. Never done one that way .
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My truck had devolped a whine/howl over the past coulple hundred miles. I thought it was a wheel bearing failing me. So yesterday I pulled it into the shop and jacked up the front end. Everthing checked out fine so I jacked up the rear end, started it up, put it in gear and to my surprise the noise was from the rear end.
I pulled the rear end apart and found the front pinion bearing had a defect in the race and the rollers were starting to pit out causing the noise and harshness when turning it. The truck has 130k, seal wasnt leaking and fluid looked/smelled normal. I think it was a legitimate defect not from abuse or lack of maintenance.
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I am working on my Dads 01 super duty with a 5.4, automatic, and the pinion bearing has seized up due to a lack of fluid from a rusted out rear diff cover. The tag on the diff cover had a 10.5 stamped on it and has 12 bolts. Is this known as a ford 10.5"
I have changed gears and pinion bearings in a Dana 70 before is this the same process? What are part numbers for a new pinion bearing and seal? Gears are in fine shape.
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I have a 2003 explorer with 6000 original miles, the truck was only used to go to the corner store by my past in laws, the tires which I have just replaced were the original Michelin with the date code 0303, the problem I am having is a fairly loud whine/hum during acceleration between 50mph and 65mph, I live in the Florida keys and trust worth mechanics are far and few between so I brought it to my Ford dealer which I buy body parts from all the time, after a test drive the service adviser said that they will have to remove the pumpkin put it on the bench and inspect it, I said ok, they called me back into the shop and showed me the unit, the tech said that I had metal filings in the unit and it was out of alignment, I saw the filings, which included the ring, pinion all inner bearings, the two outer shaft bearings and the two dust seals and oil, I verified this and the price seams to be right....my question is the labor they want to charge me 8 hrs to do the work. The rear end is a 355, not Limited and not traction.
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Well i picked up a 96 4x4 with the 4.0 a few weeks ago and been fixing stuff weekly that i find wrong. One thing i noticed was the rear diff was leaky but couldn't get the fill plug out so left if for now. Last night my wife was on interstate and it just started making a loud noise so she pulls over calls me. I get there and drive it and it makes a woowoowoo noise and it got louder as speed increased. She was 3 miles from the exit so i drove it about 15-20 to get it off interstate than another 2 miles to her sisters. We let it sit for a few hours and found a flatbed to haul it home, and when we finally got home i drove it off the flat bed and now it was making a loud clunky noise. Parked it in drive till today. Cracked open the rear and no fluid came out.
Inspecting all the gears looked good no metal in bottom so i went and got a new rear cover and 3 qt. of fluid. Put it back together and the woowoowoo was still there but seemed to slowly go away as i drove it around the block. So what else could be going on here or do i need to drive it and warm up the fluid so it circulates? I also noticed a sheeee sound like metal on metal when braking but i changed all 4 rotors and both pads last week but i noticed the brakes in the rear that look like drum brakes was bare but i assume that is only for the ebrake so didn't bother changing them yet. Could those be hitting the inside of the rotor and making the metal to metal noise?
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I was getting ready to replace the carrier bearing and noticed the rear pinion seal is leaking. Before attempting the replacement myself, I would like some opinions on the noise in the video below. Is this normal? I am confidant I can replace the carrier bearing and pinion seal, but not sure I have the tools for anything else.
YouTube ...
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My rear diff had recently started to whine on decel, what I am looking to find out is, would replacing the stock rear diff itself with a peloquin unit be enough of a fix, or should the whole rear housing be replaced as well? I don't want to buy a peloquin rear diff and install it and still have issues because of the pinion shaft being the culprit or something else.
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I have a 2003 Sport Trac 4wd with 299,000 miles. There is what sounds like wheel bearing noise (grinding) that was noticed after returning from a trip where I flat towed it behind my rv. I did not notice the noise the last time I drove it - before towing it about 450 miles. I have towed this vehicle for many years and miles this way - transmission and transfer case in neutral with key in on position to unlock steering. I stated this part about the towing because the noise may have gone unnoticed for many miles. About 20,000 miles ago, I changed front wheel bearings, brake calipers, upper and lower ball joints, shocks and outer tie rod ends. Also rear brake pads.
I put the vehicle on jack stands and in drive mode couldn't hear anything in either 2wd or 4wd. I held one wheel at a time so the other side would spin. After checking for wobbling wheel bearings, I took off the wheels and did a push / pull on everything - all seems good. I changed driver's side wheel bearing anyway because I thought it to be a little rough. I removed the front drive shaft and took it out on the road. Noise was still there. This makes me think front differential but before entering unknown territory (for me) is there something else I can do to narrow down the problem? At this point, I'm not even convinced it is from the front end - maybe the sound is radiating through the truck.
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I have an '03 Ford Explorer (V8) and recently had a rebuilt engine installed (at 135,000 miles). As soon as I got the car back, the engine whined and it's getting louder. The whine starts immediately but it louder when the accelerator is pressed. The sound reminds me of a car with bad power steering, but it's so much louder and doesn't correlate to turning the wheel, but pressing the gas pedal.
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I just finished replacing the rack and pinion on a 98 Explorer 5.0 V8 AWD 4dr Eddie Bauer edition. My question is...Should the steering gear lower shaft set flush when it is connected to the Rack and pinion knuckle? I have some wiggle room but I think I have it as far down as I can get it. It is about 1/2" from setting flush on top of the knuckle. Once I tighten the bolt, it should hold, right?
It looks just like the picture on the right.....
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I turned the key and it started to crank and slowly started to whine down. Tried it a 2 more times and it did the same thing only with less strength and on the third try all I hear is the starter clicking. Both batteries read 12.57 on my multimeter while not cranking. Does this sound like an alternator? All my electronics seem to have plenty of power.
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We've had a lot of rain here in pa lately and i hit a few big puddles the other day and now i have a growl slash wine in the front of my motor,now i narrowed it down to something driven by the bely because I removed the belt and no noise all pulleys feel good and smooth except the ac compressor if you spin it by hand it has a rough/dry feeling and sound to it but the noise doesn't change with the ac on or off its just constant grinding/whine. Replace the ac compressor pulley bearing that what I am thinking it is and don't really want to change out the whole compressor..
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Looking for a video, pictures, or steps that are in depth on how to replace my rear seals and bearings? They are leaking very badly and would like to see some other ways to get it done.
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I changed my rear axle grease a couple of weeks ago and now I see some fluid coming out of the pinion seal. Do you think I overfilled it or do I need a new seal?
How hard is it to replace the pinion seal, will I need a new crush washer and will it knock out the preload?
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I've got a 2003 F150 4x4 supercrew that's got a 9.75" rear end with 3.73 gears. I just replaced clutch packs and spider gear set 2 weeks ago. The last day or two I have noticed that when I make sharp turns that it get a whining like spinning noise. It sounds to me like the spider gears are spinning. It only does it when making sharp turns. There is no noise going down the highway or normal driver. I have noticed at times I get a little shutter when I go to take off or back up. Kinda feels like a brake is hanging. I put friction modifier in when I did the clutch packs and everything. Maybe not enough?
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New issue this week - truck developed a leak from the pinion seal. I'm not sure how much has leaked out, so I would like to top it off before limping to the dealership.
From the manual: "Motorcraft SAE 75W-140 Rear Synthetic Axle Lubricant" There is also a footnote for friction modifier required for a Trans-Loc rear diff. Assuming that footnote refers to an LSD and NOT the E-Locker, should be able to top off with just the fluid, correct?
I am a die hard for Truck fan but am really disappointed with the overall quality of the truck. I bought it new and now with 30k, I've had it in twice to have rotors turned, once for transmission getting stuck in 5th and needed a new molded leadframe assembly, and now the pinion leak. All fixed under warranty, however really unacceptable for a truck with this low of miles and an easy life.
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I have been puzzled to why my truck isn't running right. We were driving down the highway one day and*then all of the sudden it starts running really rough. I changed MAF sensor, plugs and plug wires, oil change, fuel filter and air filter. Still doing the same thing. What this could be? 2003 ford sport trac..
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I have a 2003 Explorer.... 4wd..... and here's my story.. I had a tire blow out (front driver side) and I took it to a tire chain to get it replaced (it was the closest thing to where it happened and I had to get to work)
After the tire was replaced, the truck started to rumble in the front and seemed like the brake was being pressed while I was driving. I called the chain tire store and told them my truck was not doing this prior to them replacing the tire. They said it was fine because I was riding on a better tread tire and the remaining tires were worn.... (okay..maybe so?)
I drive 80 miles one way to work....the whole way there...rumbling and this 'brake applied' feeling. Worked my shift...drove the 80 miles back home...same thing.
Took truck back to store....they said that it was the Front Drive Shaft had cracked at the Transfer case.... I've asked a few people and they think it's just the ABS still locked because I was traveling a high rate of speed when my tire went out. I think the tire store chain screwed up when they replaced the tire....
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I'm hearing a wheel bearing "whine" now after 125K on my salvaged Corolla. How do I replace the front wheel bearings on a 2004 1.8L Corolla. Any special tools required.
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Trying to figure out my rear pinion angle should be. I still have vibration in the truck around 65-70 mph and sometimes around 80mph if i go that fast. I checked my rear axle last night and its at 8.5 degrees on top of the pinion snout is that correct???? And i forgot to measure the rear driveshaft angle but i can do that after work when i get home. Truck is a 2004 ext cab short bed 4x4...
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