I turned the key and it started to crank and slowly started to whine down. Tried it a 2 more times and it did the same thing only with less strength and on the third try all I hear is the starter clicking. Both batteries read 12.57 on my multimeter while not cranking. Does this sound like an alternator? All my electronics seem to have plenty of power.
View 14 RepliesI was driving my truck then all sudden truck started losing power then slowly died. I restarted it, it was a lil shacky then died again. Iunscrewed the fuel filter and looked in the housing and there was lil fuel in bowl i turned the key to on position and bowl did not fill with fuel looked as if it were shooting some bubbles up(air) could it be outta of fuel???
View 10 RepliesSo we have a van with the 6.0. It has a little over 100,000 miles. It has started to take longer to up shift. The dealer ( I know. but I know my service guy and he has done well in the past ) says we need to do injectors and fuel regulator plus a host of small parts to do the job. about 8 grand or so of work. Everything on the trans checks out and is supposed to be in perfect order. Truck goes well once up to speed but its getting the is the problem. So its parked so we don,t melt an injector.
View 3 RepliesFirst post since I bought my powerstroke. I was looking for some diagnostics.
On my way to work this morning and the truck started chugging like it was wanting to die and had no power, the pedal was to the floor and I was barely moving. I was able to nurse it to a parking space at work and pulled the codes, using the Torque pro. This was what I pulled:
P0284 - Cylinder #8 contribution/balance
P0299 - Underboost
P0611 - FICM
P0401 - EGR
P0671 - Cylinder 1 glow plug
On the way home I didn't even hit 5 miles and started into the same symptoms. So I decided to call for a tow, because my commute is about 60 miles one way. In waiting for the tow truck I disconnected the batteries and reconnected them thinking that it might "reset" something. I started it up and the same thing occurred, so I tried revving it up, and starting it up and shutting it down on and off for about an hour. Thinking I picked up some bad fuel. Drove it for a short distance and found things were getting better. I was able to make it home and pulled the codes again. It came up with these:
P0284
P0603 - Internal Control Mod.
P0611
P1000
Also on the ride home I had excessive amounts of black smoke from the exhaust and found a couple of large drops of oil on the driveway where i normally park, larger than what I normally see.
So my question would be what is the cause of all of this?
A little about the truck. it is a F250 CCSB with about 139xxx miles on the clock. I bought it from my brother when he had it he had the FICM replaced (with the 58V option) and the Bullet proof EGR installed. I replaced the fuel spring with the blue one shortly after I bought it.
While driving home the other night at highway speed my truck lost power. I just filled the tank about 15 miles before then and everything was running fine. No lights came on the dash before the truck died and now can't get it started. Bad fuel? Clogged filter?
View 5 RepliesLast night pulled in at rest stop and truck started surging then stalled put dieselkleen in and topped off tank but no luck eventually would not run at all. Had it towed to ford and this morning started right up running fine. Having them change fuel filters. Not sure what to do got to get back to drive?
View 11 RepliesMy engine cooling fan came on when I first started the truck, was reading of 2k on torque app, ECT was appx 100* with the EOT a little cooler after about 5-10 minutes things went to normal around 600 rpm. It did not happen anymore during the drive, I was seeing about 192* ECT and 198-200 EOT. I let her set for 2 days and took her to town and the fan was at normal RPM's, Is there any problems or is that normal?
View 9 RepliesCouple days ago the cab of my truck started shaking some more than usual. Its gotten worse now, however. Happens the worst around 60-80km, light on the throttle just cruising in overdrive, whole cab shakes badly. Chop the throttle and its completely gone, any heavy on the throttle and it's gone as well. Does it loaded and unloaded. Okay at highway speeds but like i said around 70km its bad. I've got my guesses but what really it is?? Truck runs fine otherwise...
View 14 RepliesSo I replaced ball joints and hub bearings on driver side of the truck today ( passenger side tomorrow). Problem is when I pulled the axle out gear oil started to leak from axle housing not a lot but a leak nonetheless. Is this normal or did I break something.
View 2 RepliesSo, on my way home from checking out a house all of a sudden the truck started vibrating when getting on the highway. Then it got worse quickly. So I pulled off at the next exit and pulled into a parking lot, the truck shuddering badly any time I pressed the fuel pedal. Had it towed to my local Ford dealer. I'm thinking torque converter/transmission, but I freely admit I don't know. Here's what I think is pertinent info-
1. I bought it at 84k miles, now 122k. Oil changed every 5k, fuel filters every 10k, coolant every 20k, trans fluid every 20k. Don't kmow what was done first 84k miles before I bought it.
2. Driveshaft rebuilt one year ago. Both fr and rr diff fluids changed a few months ago, along with transfer case fluid.
3. When in park or neutral engine revs perfectly smooth. When placed in gear and fuel is added it starts to shudder, getting worse as revs go up. Does not vary with road speed, only with engine speed and load into transmission.
4. There are no codes at all. All temps were normal. Engine oil and trans fluid level normal.
5. A few months ago when coming home from a trip I suddenly had the same symptoms about 3 miles from home, but not as bad as today. Made it home taking it easy and went to bed. I was exhausted from a long day of driving and when I test drove the truck the next morning to check it out it was smooth as could be, so I thought maybe I imagined it. Symptoms did not reappear until today, a few months and several thousand miles later.
Just bought a 2006 F250 with 6.0. A week or so ago, it surged once at idle at a light. Sort of felt like someone bumped into your rear. It has gotten more frequent over the last week or so. Now it does it often. It tends to rev up and then back down again over and over. Then it will clear up again. My brother said his 7.3 used to have a similar problem (as did quite a few others apprently) and it was the Cam positioning sensor (CPS). Where is it located?
View 14 RepliesA few weeks ago I got in my 2005 EX and started for work. As I idled in traffic, the engine started surging (it had never done this before). So I took it right to Ford and dropped it off before it got worse. Of course, they couldnt look at it until Monday (this was a Thursday), so I had to get a rental.
I get the call on Monday that the surging problem was an injector, but covered by my warranty. But, it seems that my EGR cooler was bad, but even more important was my blown head gasket.
WHAT?! My truck did NOT have a blown head gasket when I dropped it off. But thats besides the point. There was much back and forth between Ford and my warranty company, but finally I got them to cover the head gasket.
But, I had to pay for the EGR cooler. So I asked the Ford mechanic if I could supply him with an upgraded cooler, so I wouldn't have this issue in the future. He said no problem. I then told him I was going to buy a Bulletproof and he said no, get a delete kit. He said "I've done a number of these, and its really the best solution.". He even HEAVILY recommended the ADT Delete kit. He even said that since I have a 2005, we can just leave the EGR valve hooked up and I wouldn't have a CEL issue.
Fast forward several days. I picked up my EX last night and... CEL is on. I called and spoke to the mechanic and he told me that I must have an upgraded program, and that my only option is a tuner to turn off the EGR completely. He also told me that I don't need an expensive SCT or Bullydog just for the EGR.
Anyways, with all of the above setting of the stage complete, just wondering what my best option is here... Is there a simple/cheaper tuner I can use to just disable the EGR? Is it worth the money to get a more expensive tuner? For the most part, this is my daily driver and I don't need a performance or towing tune. I wouldn't mind better mileage, though
I have a 2016 350 dually with 6.7, with 2,200 miles. I was pulling my 11,000 LB travel trailer on fairly level ground, major interstate going 65mph. Noticed I started losing speed down to about 58mph, then started decending a long 5-6% grade, at this point I was running at 3/4 throttle to maintain speed. It felt like something was binding like the rear or engine was seizing up. No codes, all temps were fine. Transmission stayed in 6th gear, even at 3/4 throttle.
Checked trailer brakes, didn't seem to be dragging. Engine sounded like it was really laboring like it was tightening up. This lasted about 10 minutes, very slowly power seemed to return to normal but it was not noticeably changing. Fuel was 3/4, DEF was filled about 300 miles earlier. This truck since new feels like it has 150HP less than my 2011 F250 with the 6.7 I traded it on. Not sure what to do, if I take it back, if they find nothing then I'll get a diagnostic charge.
I have a 2013 6.7 that I had fully deleted with 5" pipe turbo back and have a H&S Tuner. It was all done approximately 1000 miles ago or so. Recently I noticed after a cold start, after a rev (enough to push out black smoke) I would get white smoke follow the black. I did a light rev today and only white smoke came out after a cold start. I only have 1/4 tank of gas and truck has sat for a week. It sits a lot as it's not my daily driver. This could possibly be just moisture build up!! What are other possibilities of why I'm getting white smoke?
View 14 RepliesI was out for a short drive this evening and got on it just a little bit to hear that wonderful 6.0 sound and all of a sudden coolant started spraying up on the windshield like I was spraying it from the windshield wipers! My first thought was oh crap I've got a blown head gasket and it puking from my degas bottle. I had a short drive to the house so I eased it on home. My ECT got to 226 with the fan roaring but not cooling it down, luckily it never got over 226. When I got home I opened the hood expecting to see where a bunch of coolant had puked from the degas but instead I saw this. What could cause the radiator to rupture like that? I did spend a good amount of time on my knees on top of the radiator while changing out my oil cooler the first time, then again when I installed my BPD oil cooler. Also I posted in another thread a few days ago about my ECT temps being a little higher than normal, reckon my radiator was clogged and that caused the higher temps and the rupture?
View 8 RepliesI have a 2011 F250 that I bought new. It's been the best truck I have ever owned. It now has about 105K miles (170k Kms). Lately the turbo has started whining at low speeds and idling. Is this something I should be concerned about. I talked to a diesel mechanic (not Ford) and he said this is fairly common in some vehicles.
View 6 RepliesToday I visited a buddy who lives on a pretty steep hill. I always set my E-brake while in Neutral to make sure it's holding the truck before sliding it into park. So I got out and unloaded a few things and was in his garage. I heard a skidding sound outside, I was about 40 feet away from it when I looked out my truck was skidding down the hill!
I ran out and to the drivers door, opened it and pressed on the brakes with left hand right when it hit the bottom of the hill and it barely stopped from hitting the blue car parked on bottom of the hill. Next time if I stop on this hill I'll make sure it''s nose up hill and make sure I have 4X4 engaged to have all wheels locked up. I know this probably happened because the lack of weight on the rear wheels but this was a pretty crazy scare with only 7800 miles on her!
You can see the skid marks from my rear wheels, my friend lives in the middle of the block.
Last night I backed my truck up to allow another family member to leave, and the back-up sensor alarm started beeping, like it does when the tail-gate is down and backing up.
The truck had not been driven on Christmas day, but it had rained and snowed lightly (dusting), then the temp dropped to 20 degrees.
Can a light dusting/ice cause the sensor to react the same as a close object. I think it does, just trying to confirm.
I have an '03 F350 6.0 that occasionally wouldn't start until it had cooled off for about 30 minutes. A friend of mine recommended adding a little marvel mystery oil to the oil system, I did research this and found no negative posts, but now it has been 2 hours and it still won't start. Could i have added too much and thinned the oil out too much?
View 7 RepliesI have a fleet of F250s and 350s through my business. I have recently been having problems with a f250 2015 6.7. It has approximately 110k miles and a new transmission was put it about 12,000 miles ago. Since then we haven't had a problem until now. Recently (2 days ago) it started blowing a fuse, #46 (transmission control moduler) and lighting the entire dashboard up like a Xmas tree.
Check engine light, maintenance required, hill descent, etc. However it is completely random when it does this. It has happened a total of 11 times in 2 days. 6 times in a row yesterday then didn't do it until late this evening 5 times in a row. It will get parked, turn it off, try turning it back on and the fuse is blown, replace it same thing... then will eventually start.
So I have been fighting a rough running, missing problem. My truck started running rough one day on the way home. I got it scanned, it showed injector contribution balance 1&2. Made sense to me that it threw those codes. I replaced 1 and 2 with oem replacements. Got that all done, truck still ran like crap. I changed fuel filter with motorcraft ones and drained the water separator. That didn't work. I am getting it scanned again, so i will have codes shortly.
Also, for a while it would run with absolute no problem. It was intermittent like that. Run bad run bad run bad and then one day run flawlessly. I though it was electrical. Checked all the common places for chaffing, saw nothing. Even did the wiggle test while it was running, no change. But it hasn't been intermittent for a while now.