Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: Truck Started Chugging Like Going To Die And Had No Power
Nov 3, 2016
First post since I bought my powerstroke. I was looking for some diagnostics.
On my way to work this morning and the truck started chugging like it was wanting to die and had no power, the pedal was to the floor and I was barely moving. I was able to nurse it to a parking space at work and pulled the codes, using the Torque pro. This was what I pulled:
P0284 - Cylinder #8 contribution/balance
P0299 - Underboost
P0611 - FICM
P0401 - EGR
P0671 - Cylinder 1 glow plug
On the way home I didn't even hit 5 miles and started into the same symptoms. So I decided to call for a tow, because my commute is about 60 miles one way. In waiting for the tow truck I disconnected the batteries and reconnected them thinking that it might "reset" something. I started it up and the same thing occurred, so I tried revving it up, and starting it up and shutting it down on and off for about an hour. Thinking I picked up some bad fuel. Drove it for a short distance and found things were getting better. I was able to make it home and pulled the codes again. It came up with these:
P0284
P0603 - Internal Control Mod.
P0611
P1000
Also on the ride home I had excessive amounts of black smoke from the exhaust and found a couple of large drops of oil on the driveway where i normally park, larger than what I normally see.
So my question would be what is the cause of all of this?
A little about the truck. it is a F250 CCSB with about 139xxx miles on the clock. I bought it from my brother when he had it he had the FICM replaced (with the 58V option) and the Bullet proof EGR installed. I replaced the fuel spring with the blue one shortly after I bought it.
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Last night pulled in at rest stop and truck started surging then stalled put dieselkleen in and topped off tank but no luck eventually would not run at all. Had it towed to ford and this morning started right up running fine. Having them change fuel filters. Not sure what to do got to get back to drive?
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My engine cooling fan came on when I first started the truck, was reading of 2k on torque app, ECT was appx 100* with the EOT a little cooler after about 5-10 minutes things went to normal around 600 rpm. It did not happen anymore during the drive, I was seeing about 192* ECT and 198-200 EOT. I let her set for 2 days and took her to town and the fan was at normal RPM's, Is there any problems or is that normal?
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Couple days ago the cab of my truck started shaking some more than usual. Its gotten worse now, however. Happens the worst around 60-80km, light on the throttle just cruising in overdrive, whole cab shakes badly. Chop the throttle and its completely gone, any heavy on the throttle and it's gone as well. Does it loaded and unloaded. Okay at highway speeds but like i said around 70km its bad. I've got my guesses but what really it is?? Truck runs fine otherwise...
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Today I visited a buddy who lives on a pretty steep hill. I always set my E-brake while in Neutral to make sure it's holding the truck before sliding it into park. So I got out and unloaded a few things and was in his garage. I heard a skidding sound outside, I was about 40 feet away from it when I looked out my truck was skidding down the hill!
I ran out and to the drivers door, opened it and pressed on the brakes with left hand right when it hit the bottom of the hill and it barely stopped from hitting the blue car parked on bottom of the hill. Next time if I stop on this hill I'll make sure it''s nose up hill and make sure I have 4X4 engaged to have all wheels locked up. I know this probably happened because the lack of weight on the rear wheels but this was a pretty crazy scare with only 7800 miles on her!
You can see the skid marks from my rear wheels, my friend lives in the middle of the block.
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So I have been fighting a rough running, missing problem. My truck started running rough one day on the way home. I got it scanned, it showed injector contribution balance 1&2. Made sense to me that it threw those codes. I replaced 1 and 2 with oem replacements. Got that all done, truck still ran like crap. I changed fuel filter with motorcraft ones and drained the water separator. That didn't work. I am getting it scanned again, so i will have codes shortly.
Also, for a while it would run with absolute no problem. It was intermittent like that. Run bad run bad run bad and then one day run flawlessly. I though it was electrical. Checked all the common places for chaffing, saw nothing. Even did the wiggle test while it was running, no change. But it hasn't been intermittent for a while now.
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I have an 03 6.0 F250. My truck started blowing fuse #45 and it would kill my gauges (fuel, oil, mph, rpm, temp, trans temp, and odometer) and I was just replacing the fuse and putting off the repair.
However, the most recent time my gauges blew, the fuse did not, and I put in a 20 amp fuse, in hopes that it would not blow so quickly, bad idea. So naturally, I ordered a new shift lever, in hopes that it would fix the gauges and I wouldn't have to deal with it anymore, but I think it was too late and something else needs to be replaced. What I could possibly have blown by having a larger fuse in there?
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Since our weather has returned to the cold side......my truck has started bucking and hesitating at 45 mph with EOT @ 130 and ECT @ 140. I can gas on it and it will clear up/let off and it would start up again once it gets below 50 mph. Once the deltas reach 150+ it clears up completely. Its never done this until this week. FICM volts are steady @ 48V. What is causing this or what to look for?
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New here but long time lurker. I have a 2006 e350 with 6.0, bought it from a friend not long ago. The work that has been done to it the last 50,000 miles is as follows.. New hpop, all new injectors, egr delete, sct tuner, stand pipes and dummy plugs. I had it for a week and would get a no start hot once in a while. This issue had become worse and the truck started to stall as the RPMs dropped. Reading here i replaced crank sensor and the stalling stopped but the no start hot continued. I took it to a local diesel repair shop and they did the following..
Use a test ipr (no change), replaced ipr pigtail (was cracked) air test (leak under pass valve cover) replaced stand pipes and dummy plugs on this side. They said no leaks and I was good. Truck worked as its supposed to for 1 day and the no start hot issue reared its head again. Took it back and now they say the hpop is bad. The pump that was put in about 50,000 miles ago was a bostech? do these go out? Sangauge reads good ficm, but seams ipr doesn't climb that quick.
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2015 KR. want to install a high idle kit controlled by an upfitter. If I remote start the truck with the upfitter left on, will that switch be powered while the truck is remote started, activating my high idle?
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2007 6.0 6 speed, 187,000 miles. The other day started truck, had been running about 20 minutes before. Started fine, go to drive, chugging white smoke, smelled like unburnt diesel, baby truck home, seemed to run ok at low rpm, truck warmed up and ran fine. But I also noticed turbo boost was acting funny. Truck ran fine next few days. Then this morning, started cold fine, started to drive it and same chugging white smoke, it quit by the time j got to the end of my driveway, but drove to work, it quit smoking, ran pretty smooth, but will not build any boost. Truck is bone stock except for exhaust, it's straight piped. Ok. So this eve I borrowed my dads edge cts, here's all the engine codes:
P0069
P0269
P0299
P2262
P2269
The last one is water in fuel, since it started this crap I did notice it was right after it came on in the dash. I'm trying to figure out where to start....
On another note. VGT duty shows 85% at idle ?
Ficm voltage is constant 48 volts
Newer batteries
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Well it finally happened, a couple of weeks ago I was headed to an MX race and my check engine light came on and it started running rough. Long story short a piece of an exhaust valve broke off and went out through the head. Dealer has been great even though I was 300 miles from home and they did get me a rental(small POS SUV). Truck was supposed to be finished this week, but now they are saying the head gasket is on back order and they probably won't have one until the middle of April......... I can't be without my truck that long, but not much I can do. By the way truck is completely stock with just under 20K on it, and I have never had any issues with any of my Ford trucks or Ford diesels, even my old 6.0.
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About 7 months ago my truck started cranking longer than normal to start after sitting for more than 2 hours. This went on for about 3 weeks, then it started normally again. (By longer crank time, i timed it between 5-7 seconds on average. Normal is about 2 seconds). Now it has started doing this again about 4 weeks ago. Now I'm thinking HPO slow leak. Yesterday all is good again. What should I be looking for as a starting point to fix this permanently? When it cranks longer, the icp stays at 0, the ipr goes to 77%. Then it just fires off. No slow build of pressure. You can see all my mods and updated parts in my sig. I wonder if one of the new dummy plug o-rings is starting to give up already after only 15k miles. (Batt voltage is at 13.9-14.2, ficm is at 49.5 steady).
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So lately I have been having issues with my 6.0 smoking, hesitating, and chugging. It seems worse when the vehicle has been idling for a minute or two (as in at a red light) and when I depress the accelerator it starts to move, but chugs and sputters, spurting light gray smoke, then the boost hits hard, the truck surges forward, leaving a massive cloud of smoke behind, then seems to run fine until I come to a stop again. I got the usual EGR codes, so I cleared the codes, pulled and cleaned the EGR valve of all built up soot and carbon, and reinstalled it. It seemed to run okay again right after doing that work on it, but then started acting up again this afternoon.
Shot the same codes for EGR (P0404, P1335). I cleared them again, and it continues to drive like crap. Other than EGR that I can look into? Or will I need to pull and clean the valve again tomorrow when the sun is up? At first I was thinking I might also be having fuel injector stiction issues, possibly turbo vane stiction issues, maybe FICM issues, but it's only feeding me codes for EGR.
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While i am pulling a loaded trailer we have been experiencing a random Chug that only last about 1 second we have no lose of power during when it happens. We Recently just replaced all fuel Filters. We have an updated EGR on it with a cold air intake and muffler delete. It has about 180000 miles on it it runs awesome and starts right up just trying to figure what this problem could be..
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I've got an '04 6.0 that's recently developed an engine performance issue and I was hoping to get some leads on what to chase down this weekend. The truck has 75,000 miles on it and has been trouble-free since new when it comes to the motor. Recently I've noticed that, usually at a stop light, the idle will occasionally get very rough and the normal diesel "clatter" noise becomes rather rough sounding- almost like every other "clatter" disappears if that makes any sense. Up until last night this was happening very infrequently and usually only for a couple of seconds. I wasn't really sure what the issue was then and would rev the truck in neutral and the issue would go away. This has happened a handful of times in the last month or so.
I drive a company car all week and the truck only gets used in the evenings and on the weekends, and last night my wife and I drove it to dinner. The truck cranked and started normally and was operating smoothly until we got out of our neighborhood (about a mile of driving), then the rough running condition described above surfaced and continued throughout the 7 or 8 mile drive. This was the first time that it ran like this for more than a few seconds. The truck was running bad enough that you could feel the misfire or 'chugging' at speed. When the truck would shift into overdrive and the torque converter went into full lock-up, you could really feel this as the engine was lugging. I tried to keep the truck out of overdrive because it was shaking the truck pretty badly. When we came out of the restaurant I thought maybe the issue would be gone but it did it all the way home as well. Throughout both drives the Check Engine Light did not come on.
When I got home I got my DiabloSport Predator because I remembered it has a code scanner in it. I have never checked for codes before so I do not know if these are fresh codes, but there is a P0282 Cyl 8 Injector Circuit Low and a P1000 OBD Systems Readiness Test Not Complete in there.
While I was in the driveway with the engine idling badly for a few minutes, the issue completely went away and the truck smoothed out for a few minutes. It was like someone flipped a switch and the truck instantly ran properly. After a couple of minutes however, the issue instantly returned. I tried to clear the codes with the Predator but they will not go away. I am not sure how solid of a scan tool the Predator is????
I did a lot of searching on here last night because this is bugging me, and the symptoms I saw on here about the ICP sensor make total sense based on what I am experiencing. People were describing to a 'T' what I am experiencing. However, I do not have an ICP sensor code and when I searched for the P0282 that I do have I read about FICM issues here.
The rundown on the truck- '04 F-250 CC 4x4, truck was bought 10-03 and I THINK I remember the build date as 9/03 (maybe 8/03). Automatic transmission, DiabloSport Predator with 60hp tune, MBRP turbo-back exhaust, everything else stock. Oil was changed about 4,000 miles ago, both fuel filters done about 2,500 miles ago.
A few questions:
Could the ICP be my issue even though there is no code for it? Could the P0282 be coming from an ICP issue?
I've read about early '04 trucks having '03 motors and something about an updated harness for the ICP- could I get more info?
Is my truck part of the affected group with the wire-chafing I read a little about? If so, could that be causing this and what should I look for?
Does the P0282 immediately point to a FICM issue?
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Just went out this morning to start my 2011 F350 diesel and the starter is doing a "chugging" sound. Not spinning the starter at all. Just turned 60,000 miles last week and this is the very first issue that I have had with the truck.
I have put a trickle charger on the battery on the drivers side, and plan to leave it on for an hour or so.
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I have a 2007 F250 6.0 L with 116000 miles. I have never done any modifications or changed anything on the truck. Now that the weather is starting to warm up I've noticed that once the truck is at operating temperature it starts to chug and sometimes even die while driving and while its doing this the truck has no power. It does not seem to do it when its cold. Here is a picture of my gauges KOEO operating temp at idle...
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I was driving my truck then all sudden truck started losing power then slowly died. I restarted it, it was a lil shacky then died again. Iunscrewed the fuel filter and looked in the housing and there was lil fuel in bowl i turned the key to on position and bowl did not fill with fuel looked as if it were shooting some bubbles up(air) could it be outta of fuel???
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A few weeks ago I replaced my CPS on the 99 7.3. Today was the first day I drove my truck in the rain. When I turned my wipers on, I noticed that I lost power and my truck started hiccuping. I read on these forums that an aftermarket CPS is most likely the problem, so I am planning on getting a ford CPS this afternoon. My biggest concern is that before I replaced my CPS, my wipers only had 2 speeds. Also, if I pressed the end of the blinker switch to squirt the cleaner the wipers would not turn off until I turned the truck off. I am not sure why this would be happening and I wanted to ask if there is more than just the CPS involved with this.
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While headed back to town my 2000 f350 7.3 with 444,650 miles (I'm original owner) and have performed maintenance and repairs since mile 3. Truck started to loose power and eventually stalled, was able to restart several times to limp home 7 miles in one hell of a snow storm. Very confused, replaced cam position sensor ( keep one in jockey box ) replaced fuel filter truck starts then stalls out. Don't know if a bad HPOP would allow start up at all. Fuel pump???
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