Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: Cooling Fan Coming On When First Started The Truck
May 25, 2016
My engine cooling fan came on when I first started the truck, was reading of 2k on torque app, ECT was appx 100* with the EOT a little cooler after about 5-10 minutes things went to normal around 600 rpm. It did not happen anymore during the drive, I was seeing about 192* ECT and 198-200 EOT. I let her set for 2 days and took her to town and the fan was at normal RPM's, Is there any problems or is that normal?
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Here is the issue i am having. 2011 F-350 King ranch with all bells and whistles. In Arizona now we are in the season that the weather is cold in the AM and sometimes hot enough in the late afternoon to need the A/C in the truck. with the settings on Auto which i normally do, and the external temp reading in the 80s, and the internal thermostat set at 70 or lower, the A/C compressor will not engage and allow for cooling the cab of the truck. But sometimes it will work just fine. I am assuming there is a temp sensor for cabin temperature. Where that is located. or will i have to change out the entire Climate Control Module. I would take it in to have it checked out but it is an intermittent problem, and i cant not have my truck for a couple of days while they try and figure it out.
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I have a 2007 6.0 that this has happened to twice now. It's fine around town but I never hear the can come on. Friday when on the interstate my my temp gauge started to rise past normal operating temperature before fan came on. Is this normal? After the fan came on it stayed at normal temp for the rest of trip....
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First post since I bought my powerstroke. I was looking for some diagnostics.
On my way to work this morning and the truck started chugging like it was wanting to die and had no power, the pedal was to the floor and I was barely moving. I was able to nurse it to a parking space at work and pulled the codes, using the Torque pro. This was what I pulled:
P0284 - Cylinder #8 contribution/balance
P0299 - Underboost
P0611 - FICM
P0401 - EGR
P0671 - Cylinder 1 glow plug
On the way home I didn't even hit 5 miles and started into the same symptoms. So I decided to call for a tow, because my commute is about 60 miles one way. In waiting for the tow truck I disconnected the batteries and reconnected them thinking that it might "reset" something. I started it up and the same thing occurred, so I tried revving it up, and starting it up and shutting it down on and off for about an hour. Thinking I picked up some bad fuel. Drove it for a short distance and found things were getting better. I was able to make it home and pulled the codes again. It came up with these:
P0284
P0603 - Internal Control Mod.
P0611
P1000
Also on the ride home I had excessive amounts of black smoke from the exhaust and found a couple of large drops of oil on the driveway where i normally park, larger than what I normally see.
So my question would be what is the cause of all of this?
A little about the truck. it is a F250 CCSB with about 139xxx miles on the clock. I bought it from my brother when he had it he had the FICM replaced (with the 58V option) and the Bullet proof EGR installed. I replaced the fuel spring with the blue one shortly after I bought it.
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Last night pulled in at rest stop and truck started surging then stalled put dieselkleen in and topped off tank but no luck eventually would not run at all. Had it towed to ford and this morning started right up running fine. Having them change fuel filters. Not sure what to do got to get back to drive?
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Couple days ago the cab of my truck started shaking some more than usual. Its gotten worse now, however. Happens the worst around 60-80km, light on the throttle just cruising in overdrive, whole cab shakes badly. Chop the throttle and its completely gone, any heavy on the throttle and it's gone as well. Does it loaded and unloaded. Okay at highway speeds but like i said around 70km its bad. I've got my guesses but what really it is?? Truck runs fine otherwise...
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Today I visited a buddy who lives on a pretty steep hill. I always set my E-brake while in Neutral to make sure it's holding the truck before sliding it into park. So I got out and unloaded a few things and was in his garage. I heard a skidding sound outside, I was about 40 feet away from it when I looked out my truck was skidding down the hill!
I ran out and to the drivers door, opened it and pressed on the brakes with left hand right when it hit the bottom of the hill and it barely stopped from hitting the blue car parked on bottom of the hill. Next time if I stop on this hill I'll make sure it''s nose up hill and make sure I have 4X4 engaged to have all wheels locked up. I know this probably happened because the lack of weight on the rear wheels but this was a pretty crazy scare with only 7800 miles on her!
You can see the skid marks from my rear wheels, my friend lives in the middle of the block.
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So I have been fighting a rough running, missing problem. My truck started running rough one day on the way home. I got it scanned, it showed injector contribution balance 1&2. Made sense to me that it threw those codes. I replaced 1 and 2 with oem replacements. Got that all done, truck still ran like crap. I changed fuel filter with motorcraft ones and drained the water separator. That didn't work. I am getting it scanned again, so i will have codes shortly.
Also, for a while it would run with absolute no problem. It was intermittent like that. Run bad run bad run bad and then one day run flawlessly. I though it was electrical. Checked all the common places for chaffing, saw nothing. Even did the wiggle test while it was running, no change. But it hasn't been intermittent for a while now.
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I have an 03 6.0 F250. My truck started blowing fuse #45 and it would kill my gauges (fuel, oil, mph, rpm, temp, trans temp, and odometer) and I was just replacing the fuse and putting off the repair.
However, the most recent time my gauges blew, the fuse did not, and I put in a 20 amp fuse, in hopes that it would not blow so quickly, bad idea. So naturally, I ordered a new shift lever, in hopes that it would fix the gauges and I wouldn't have to deal with it anymore, but I think it was too late and something else needs to be replaced. What I could possibly have blown by having a larger fuse in there?
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Since our weather has returned to the cold side......my truck has started bucking and hesitating at 45 mph with EOT @ 130 and ECT @ 140. I can gas on it and it will clear up/let off and it would start up again once it gets below 50 mph. Once the deltas reach 150+ it clears up completely. Its never done this until this week. FICM volts are steady @ 48V. What is causing this or what to look for?
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New here but long time lurker. I have a 2006 e350 with 6.0, bought it from a friend not long ago. The work that has been done to it the last 50,000 miles is as follows.. New hpop, all new injectors, egr delete, sct tuner, stand pipes and dummy plugs. I had it for a week and would get a no start hot once in a while. This issue had become worse and the truck started to stall as the RPMs dropped. Reading here i replaced crank sensor and the stalling stopped but the no start hot continued. I took it to a local diesel repair shop and they did the following..
Use a test ipr (no change), replaced ipr pigtail (was cracked) air test (leak under pass valve cover) replaced stand pipes and dummy plugs on this side. They said no leaks and I was good. Truck worked as its supposed to for 1 day and the no start hot issue reared its head again. Took it back and now they say the hpop is bad. The pump that was put in about 50,000 miles ago was a bostech? do these go out? Sangauge reads good ficm, but seams ipr doesn't climb that quick.
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2015 KR. want to install a high idle kit controlled by an upfitter. If I remote start the truck with the upfitter left on, will that switch be powered while the truck is remote started, activating my high idle?
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Well it finally happened, a couple of weeks ago I was headed to an MX race and my check engine light came on and it started running rough. Long story short a piece of an exhaust valve broke off and went out through the head. Dealer has been great even though I was 300 miles from home and they did get me a rental(small POS SUV). Truck was supposed to be finished this week, but now they are saying the head gasket is on back order and they probably won't have one until the middle of April......... I can't be without my truck that long, but not much I can do. By the way truck is completely stock with just under 20K on it, and I have never had any issues with any of my Ford trucks or Ford diesels, even my old 6.0.
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About 7 months ago my truck started cranking longer than normal to start after sitting for more than 2 hours. This went on for about 3 weeks, then it started normally again. (By longer crank time, i timed it between 5-7 seconds on average. Normal is about 2 seconds). Now it has started doing this again about 4 weeks ago. Now I'm thinking HPO slow leak. Yesterday all is good again. What should I be looking for as a starting point to fix this permanently? When it cranks longer, the icp stays at 0, the ipr goes to 77%. Then it just fires off. No slow build of pressure. You can see all my mods and updated parts in my sig. I wonder if one of the new dummy plug o-rings is starting to give up already after only 15k miles. (Batt voltage is at 13.9-14.2, ficm is at 49.5 steady).
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Title says it all. Chirping sounds almost like belt noise but appears to be coming underneath the vehicle (and from further back than the drivers seat). Goes away as soon as I turn off tow haul (which provides engine braking). A quick visual inspection finds nothing amiss. Trucks runs and drives normally with or without tow haul.
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2007 F550 with the 6.0. About 2 months ago I replaced the EGR cooler with a Bulletproof cooler. Truck ran well for a few weeks. Then I started getting the "turbo fart". I stopped using the truck until I had an issue with another truck. I was stuck so I sent the 07 out without cleaning the turbo. This morning a decent amount of white smoke started coming out of the exhaust. The smoke would sometimes get a bit gray. Going up hill it didn't have much power at all.
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06 6.0L 205k
EGR, cat, and muffler delete
IPR replaced roughly 10k miles ago
New oil cooler roughly 15k ago
Replaced turbo Y up pipe 15k ago
Replaced radiator, idler pulley, and serp belt roughly 50k ago
I've got a strange squeal sound coming from under the hood only when truck is cold? It sounds like a bearing and after it gets heated up the sound stops. I talked with a guy thats a cummins guy and he said he had a similar issue and he had to replace the bearing in the turbo? Also when truck is warm it will still do it, like for instance, if I run in a store and truck idles for 5-10 mins it will do it only if I romp on it for a short while like 2-3 mins then again goes away. And if I'm idling or in neutral, hot/cold, it does not do it, it seems to be only under a load. Pull a 26 foot boat no problems.
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What could be making the strange pumping sound coming from under my hood after I shut off the truck?? It sounds like a small compressor or pump running.
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Today I drove to dinner in my 2012 6.7 with no problems then on the way home my brother said he noticed my truck was white smoking quite a bit and he said there was a very strong exhaust smell coming from my truck ( he was in his car behind me) I ran a diagnostic test and what came up was code P0401 (I believe that's right). Need to figure out what is going on with my truck before I take it to the mechanics and get charged up. The truck still has DPFs in it just has a DPF back exhaust and has a AFE cold air intake running on a stock tune. However I do have the DPF deletes and EGR delete sitting in my garage just haven't gotten them on the truck yet.
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Under normal driving, my cooling fan rarely comes on. The truck runs ECT 194 to 200 and EOT about 7-8 degrees warmer. On grades in the mountains, not towing, it will cycle on if the ECT gets to 210, cools it down and cycles again if needed. My question is, under similar conditions, what does your truck do? When towing my 5th wheel, about 13k, when its 90 degrees plus, at between 60 and 65mph on level ground, my ECT runs 210 and the fan comes on to around 1400rpm and cools it back down to about 204.
When the ECT gets back to 210, the fan does the same. On uphill grades, I see as much as 220 ECT. When this happens the fan comes on at around 2500rpm and cools it down to about 199 pretty quickly. I have a new oil cooler so my oil always follows and on my last trip I never saw more than EOT of 225 on the longest, steepest grade. The reason I ask is to see if this seems normal. My mech keeps mentioning that if my fan is cycling it may be head gaskets. But, I don't have any other head gasket symptoms. I think it seems pretty normal. If the fan doesn't come on and cool the engine when its working this hard, then what is it for? What does your truck do under similar conditions?
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The 2011 Platinum's "black" interior is really chocolate in color. This just killed a potential sale today. But I did drive it and it didn't dissapoint. Probably out of my price range,but if money wasn't and object, probably would go for the loaded blk. 4x4 Platinum.
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