While i am pulling a loaded trailer we have been experiencing a random Chug that only last about 1 second we have no lose of power during when it happens. We Recently just replaced all fuel Filters. We have an updated EGR on it with a cold air intake and muffler delete. It has about 180000 miles on it it runs awesome and starts right up just trying to figure what this problem could be..
View 11 RepliesSo pulling my trailer and 4x4 and the truck dies without any other symptoms. No check engine light all other electrical remains working. This happened 6 times this trip always while pulling a grade but only after the truck has been running for a few hours. Each time, no warning and once the truck has set for 5 to 10 minutes it start up like normal. The longer i let it set the longer I can run before it does it again. ICP is 550ish at idle, 200ish while cranking. Check the FICM before the trip and it was at 47.5 to 48.5v key on engine off and running. STC, stand pipes, dummy plugs, ball cups have all been done.
View 10 RepliesTruck has not been bullet proofed and has aftermarket air intake. Truck has 185km on it (purchased at 160km a year ago). For the Ham Radio guys out there, this is the most electrically noisy vehicle I've owned with S9+ noise while accelerating and S7 going down the highway ...
The faults show up as:edit Can be hard to start cold, takes couple of tries if it's been sitting for a bit (week or more)
No power when cold, that is a lot of pedal results in little power
Misses a lot when cold
Light blue smoke when missing when cold
When fully warmed up which takes 15 minutes of idling regardless the time of year:under load (heavy acceleration while loaded or not, or just in towing, or carrying) it misses a few times a minute, otherwise runs well
It feels like it just doesn't fire a cylinder if it were a gasser, or as if the spark plug weren't connected, but it's not a constant miss, it is intermittent. No load means hardly any misses. Load means lots of misses even running down the road. Should be pulling hard up a hill where it misses lots more.
What I've looked at :
FICM voltage 47.8 standing, 47.6 cranking and running.
FICM is aftermarket and there are no cold solder joints.
Added Archoil 9100 with no change
Wires to FICM are tight and connectors aren't cracked
edit Wires to Injectors are tight and connectors aren't cracked
Exhaust temps range between 500F and 800F during any of these events
Basic ODB reader shows no codes
I'm looking for a couple of things - I'm not much of a mechanic so this has to go to a shop for diagnosis and repairs. Before I run it someplace, what sort of diagnostic tools should that shop be equipped with to find out what's going on? Also, given what you know of the problem, am I likely to damage things if I continue towing activities?
2007 6.0 6 speed, 187,000 miles. The other day started truck, had been running about 20 minutes before. Started fine, go to drive, chugging white smoke, smelled like unburnt diesel, baby truck home, seemed to run ok at low rpm, truck warmed up and ran fine. But I also noticed turbo boost was acting funny. Truck ran fine next few days. Then this morning, started cold fine, started to drive it and same chugging white smoke, it quit by the time j got to the end of my driveway, but drove to work, it quit smoking, ran pretty smooth, but will not build any boost. Truck is bone stock except for exhaust, it's straight piped. Ok. So this eve I borrowed my dads edge cts, here's all the engine codes:
P0069
P0269
P0299
P2262
P2269
The last one is water in fuel, since it started this crap I did notice it was right after it came on in the dash. I'm trying to figure out where to start....
On another note. VGT duty shows 85% at idle ?
Ficm voltage is constant 48 volts
Newer batteries
So lately I have been having issues with my 6.0 smoking, hesitating, and chugging. It seems worse when the vehicle has been idling for a minute or two (as in at a red light) and when I depress the accelerator it starts to move, but chugs and sputters, spurting light gray smoke, then the boost hits hard, the truck surges forward, leaving a massive cloud of smoke behind, then seems to run fine until I come to a stop again. I got the usual EGR codes, so I cleared the codes, pulled and cleaned the EGR valve of all built up soot and carbon, and reinstalled it. It seemed to run okay again right after doing that work on it, but then started acting up again this afternoon.
Shot the same codes for EGR (P0404, P1335). I cleared them again, and it continues to drive like crap. Other than EGR that I can look into? Or will I need to pull and clean the valve again tomorrow when the sun is up? At first I was thinking I might also be having fuel injector stiction issues, possibly turbo vane stiction issues, maybe FICM issues, but it's only feeding me codes for EGR.
First post since I bought my powerstroke. I was looking for some diagnostics.
On my way to work this morning and the truck started chugging like it was wanting to die and had no power, the pedal was to the floor and I was barely moving. I was able to nurse it to a parking space at work and pulled the codes, using the Torque pro. This was what I pulled:
P0284 - Cylinder #8 contribution/balance
P0299 - Underboost
P0611 - FICM
P0401 - EGR
P0671 - Cylinder 1 glow plug
On the way home I didn't even hit 5 miles and started into the same symptoms. So I decided to call for a tow, because my commute is about 60 miles one way. In waiting for the tow truck I disconnected the batteries and reconnected them thinking that it might "reset" something. I started it up and the same thing occurred, so I tried revving it up, and starting it up and shutting it down on and off for about an hour. Thinking I picked up some bad fuel. Drove it for a short distance and found things were getting better. I was able to make it home and pulled the codes again. It came up with these:
P0284
P0603 - Internal Control Mod.
P0611
P1000
Also on the ride home I had excessive amounts of black smoke from the exhaust and found a couple of large drops of oil on the driveway where i normally park, larger than what I normally see.
So my question would be what is the cause of all of this?
A little about the truck. it is a F250 CCSB with about 139xxx miles on the clock. I bought it from my brother when he had it he had the FICM replaced (with the 58V option) and the Bullet proof EGR installed. I replaced the fuel spring with the blue one shortly after I bought it.
I've got an '04 6.0 that's recently developed an engine performance issue and I was hoping to get some leads on what to chase down this weekend. The truck has 75,000 miles on it and has been trouble-free since new when it comes to the motor. Recently I've noticed that, usually at a stop light, the idle will occasionally get very rough and the normal diesel "clatter" noise becomes rather rough sounding- almost like every other "clatter" disappears if that makes any sense. Up until last night this was happening very infrequently and usually only for a couple of seconds. I wasn't really sure what the issue was then and would rev the truck in neutral and the issue would go away. This has happened a handful of times in the last month or so.
I drive a company car all week and the truck only gets used in the evenings and on the weekends, and last night my wife and I drove it to dinner. The truck cranked and started normally and was operating smoothly until we got out of our neighborhood (about a mile of driving), then the rough running condition described above surfaced and continued throughout the 7 or 8 mile drive. This was the first time that it ran like this for more than a few seconds. The truck was running bad enough that you could feel the misfire or 'chugging' at speed. When the truck would shift into overdrive and the torque converter went into full lock-up, you could really feel this as the engine was lugging. I tried to keep the truck out of overdrive because it was shaking the truck pretty badly. When we came out of the restaurant I thought maybe the issue would be gone but it did it all the way home as well. Throughout both drives the Check Engine Light did not come on.
When I got home I got my DiabloSport Predator because I remembered it has a code scanner in it. I have never checked for codes before so I do not know if these are fresh codes, but there is a P0282 Cyl 8 Injector Circuit Low and a P1000 OBD Systems Readiness Test Not Complete in there.
While I was in the driveway with the engine idling badly for a few minutes, the issue completely went away and the truck smoothed out for a few minutes. It was like someone flipped a switch and the truck instantly ran properly. After a couple of minutes however, the issue instantly returned. I tried to clear the codes with the Predator but they will not go away. I am not sure how solid of a scan tool the Predator is????
I did a lot of searching on here last night because this is bugging me, and the symptoms I saw on here about the ICP sensor make total sense based on what I am experiencing. People were describing to a 'T' what I am experiencing. However, I do not have an ICP sensor code and when I searched for the P0282 that I do have I read about FICM issues here.
The rundown on the truck- '04 F-250 CC 4x4, truck was bought 10-03 and I THINK I remember the build date as 9/03 (maybe 8/03). Automatic transmission, DiabloSport Predator with 60hp tune, MBRP turbo-back exhaust, everything else stock. Oil was changed about 4,000 miles ago, both fuel filters done about 2,500 miles ago.
A few questions:
Could the ICP be my issue even though there is no code for it? Could the P0282 be coming from an ICP issue?
I've read about early '04 trucks having '03 motors and something about an updated harness for the ICP- could I get more info?
Is my truck part of the affected group with the wire-chafing I read a little about? If so, could that be causing this and what should I look for?
Does the P0282 immediately point to a FICM issue?
Just went out this morning to start my 2011 F350 diesel and the starter is doing a "chugging" sound. Not spinning the starter at all. Just turned 60,000 miles last week and this is the very first issue that I have had with the truck.
I have put a trickle charger on the battery on the drivers side, and plan to leave it on for an hour or so.
I have a 2007 F250 6.0 L with 116000 miles. I have never done any modifications or changed anything on the truck. Now that the weather is starting to warm up I've noticed that once the truck is at operating temperature it starts to chug and sometimes even die while driving and while its doing this the truck has no power. It does not seem to do it when its cold. Here is a picture of my gauges KOEO operating temp at idle...
View 4 RepliesSo I have just over 14k on my 2015....... I love the truck but have had a few small issues. I had a water leak coming in from the roof that would leak through the grab handle. Nothing major dealer replaced one clearance light seal and they said the windshield needs to be re sealed.
Then I had a god awful irritating squeak in the dash..... It only does it late In the day when it's been hot. The dealer said it was a loose air bag. I have had the truck back a week and it's doing it again.
Those are little issues that will get resolved...... I hate having problems with a brand new vehicle but I understand it happens and that's what warranty is for.
I also reported a bad shake to the dealer...... The truck will shake very violently and have a very loud "diesel" sound. It's very specific at when it occurs. It has only done 4 times in the past 6 weeks including today. The odd thing is the 4 times it has done it has been the same time of day in the exact same spot on the exact same road!!!!
Basically I leave my office sit in some traffic and by the time I get to the parkway it has been35 minutes or so. Only happens in 6th at 60 which is roughly 1,400rpm a slight load due to a small incline and it shakes real bad! The typical "diesel" sound you get when under a load is very pronounced almost to a knock. It will continue to do this as you slowly increase throttle until it down shifts and then goes away. I also caught it doing it and I manually shifted to 5th and it went away.
Because of the rpm at which it happens with slight load only doing it in 6th I lean to a Trans issue and more so a converter problem. It feels like converter shutter. I just don't understand the engine sound.
I gave very descriptive info to the dealer..... Several techs drove it and could not duplicate. I just picked the truck back up last Thursday and the dash squeak is back and the shake happened yesterday and again today. So I am a bit irritated to say the least.
I really hate the fact that I know there is a problem but I also understand if a tech can't duplicate it he can't diagnose it. However today I did get a video of it with my phone so they will know I'm not making this crap up!
I have a 2006 F350 Superduty hd 4x4 6.0 Diesel. When it begins to start pulling from a standstill, it will not build power to untrack the load. Once it gets going the turbo will build boost and pull fine. Checked Boots on tube from turbo to intercooler for possible leaks. Replaced tube from intercooler to intake. Made sure map sensor tube was clear of soot (none at all in there). Air Cleaner is in good shape. Im a little Frustrated.
View 7 RepliesI posted earlier about a whistle that appeared when I was towing my old travel trailer (6000 pounds). It only happened a couple of times, and I had a hard time replicating it, so I elected not to waste any money with the deductable, and possible additional costs for a non-covered issue at the stealership.
Now, I am towing a larger 5th wheel trailer (11000 pounds), and am experiencing this whistle on every steep grade, while towing. Below are a couple of things I noticed, that had to be, before I would get the whistle:
* It only seems to happen while the cooling fan is engaged, and also only when the rpms reached 2800 and above.
*If the fan was on, but the rpms were turning below 2800 rpms, then it would not whistle. It would, however, after the transmission downshifts, bringing the rpms back up, while climbing.
*If the engine was spinning at 2800 rpms, and the engine fan was not engaged, then it would not whistle, until the fan would kick in.
* It only seems to occur when I am climbing a steep grade, on a warm day. Although, I haven't experimented on steep grades on a cold day...
It sounds to me like there is an issue with the engine fan system, but I thought I would put it out there, just in case any of the diesel guru's out there might know of something else that would cause a whistle like this, i.e., turbo?
Oh by the way, I also think that I have a performance reduction lately. However, I can't know for sure, as I have never towed this much weight with my truck before. I just kind of expected that I would be able to pull to the top of these grades, with a little extra peddle to spare. I have to floor it, just to "try" and keep up with traffic. And I haven't calculated my fuel mileage while towing this beast yet, but WOW, that fuel gauge needle sure does drop like a rock!
My 6.0 stalls out when under load above idle intermittently. When it stalls, if I release the gas pedal and tap it, it usually catches again but not always. ICP is strong and doesn't seem to waiver when it stalls. Engine runs much better when oil comes up to about 180. Oil / water temp spread about 5 degrees.
View 14 RepliesAfter replacing both heads with remanufactured heads from ford along with new egr and oil cooler a month ago, she still overheats when pulling a load. While normal driving and not towing, no problems. In the last 5,000 miles since work was done and while towing approx. 15,000 lbs (load and trailer weight) she got hot once, slowed down, temp retreated got home - she has not overheated since then pulling 4-5 loads over the next 2,500 miles. Today at about 75 degrees only 4 blocks after picking up a load at about 12,000 lbs she started getting hot again. After I let her cool down and got on the Freeway the temp went down, appears she's not staying cool in the city with a load on. With all the work and new parts I had installed, what the problem might be?
View 12 RepliesI ran about 500 miles today loaded up pretty good and noticed every bump I hit that was enough to rock the truck and trailer that there was a noise I've never heard before. It was like the difference between asphalt and concrete road surfaces, but was only present when the springs were sufficiently compressed. Temps were between -10 when I left to 10 or so above when I was destinated. Would that cause the noise?
View 3 RepliesI have a 2003 f 350 6.0, when under a heavy laod such as towing a 3000-pound trailer up a long hill at approx 60mph and 2000 rpm it intermittently mis fires.The boost gauge bounces up and down and i here a poping sound from the engine compartment.I have had it to several dealer and independent shops but with out the trailer or a heavy load it runs perfectly.They have told me fuel pressure is good and changed all fuel filters with OEM parts.
View 3 Replies2005 F250, 6.0, 60K miles, recently (within last 1K miles) had ARP studs, EGR delete and new oil cooler installed. Shortly after (5-6 weeks later) I noticed blue smoke under any load (taking off from red light, backing up) but not at idle or startup. Was using the "Performance" SCT canned tune after the stud install, but had the "65HP Tow" canned tune installed when I first noticed the smoke and now back to stock after noticed the smoke as a precaution. Everything else original except FICM, filters and batteries and use 5w40 Mobil 1 since new.
View 14 RepliesIn the last 3 weeks I've replaced the oil cooler. IPR, ICP, fan clutch, intercooler, rebuilt the turbo, new elc coolant, egr valve, thermostat, new batteries, positive battery cable, and alternator and a host of other crap. Now I have a new problem.
When towing it overheats, almost instantly under load. I was towing a 9k trailer up a hill, a total of about a 30 second climb and it overheated (242 degrees). I'm thinking head gaskets at this point as they are stock and have the tty bolts installed.
Recently had a rear pinion leak and replaced the seal and nut. I jacked up the truck, took off wheels and felt the drag so I could duplicate once i had the new seal as I tightened the nut. I've done this only once before on my F150 years ago, but when I put the driveshaft back on and test drove it, i had shudder when not under load. So when I let off of the accelerator, it had shudder and more the faster I was going.
Obviously thinking this is a preload issue with the rear axle but would this be caused by tightening too much or too little. I had no issues before so I would think that the driveshaft itself is not the issue. I can't confirm that I got it bolted up in the exact same manner as before in relation to the flanges but still wouldn't think that to be the issue.
38k and 15 months old. Runs fine except...
Can be in cruise or not, tow/haul or not, but need to be pulling a decent hill with 7k+ trailer. Running level with air bags. Regardless of speed, cruising at 50, 58, or 65, beginning incline and turbo boost builds normally to maintain speed to the point when it needs to downshift. BAM!!, not just a clunk, 90% of the time- scares the hell out of me. I can make it do it on an incline empty, but it it difficult. If because initial speed is 50ish, a second downshift to 4th may be needed. A bang only 50% of the time.
No codes.
Regardless of the degree incline, (toughest in the NC/KY areas is 6-7% grade, can avoid harsh shift by backing off on throttle and manually downshifting to 5th or 4th, depending upon speed.
Can "make" it do it on level terrain with 7k trailer if I slowly back off throttle and slow from 65 to 50 or so and punch it, but not too hard. Too hard and it goes to 4th, usually with just a modest clunk. Just right and I get 5th with a loud, and I mean loud BAM. Even the tech was impressed.
Afraid to hook up my 17k 5er and take off for the next 3 months, which is the reason I bought the truck to replace my 11...
Carrier bearing has grease coming out of it (400k on various duallies and never seen this), but dealer says not an issue.
Ford told dealer that it had no idea, and advised tech to do a lot of pin point electrical testing and everything checks out. Next stop is the inner workings of transmission.
I have been without it and work for 3 days because of backlog. Running two day load tomorrow, then back in for tranny work.
2015 F350 CC LB FX4. I routinely haul 2-4k of cargo in the back of my truck for 375 mile jaunts.... I do this at least once a week. Most I've ever hauled in the bed was 5k and it rode better than it does with 2k in the bed.
The ride is awful and the bounciness and instability driving on uneven roads or corning at speed is starting to really annoy me. Would a set of good airbags cure this problem? Hit a pot hole while corning on the highway around 60-70mph and you better hang on... feels like the back end is going to jump off the ground.
On my last trip down it was so bad I actually pulled off the side of the highway to see if one of my rear springs was broken. And yes... the cargo is evenly distributed under my truck ARE canopy. E rated tires set at 80 PSI rear, 65 PSI front.