Ford - Explorer :: 2003 - Shudder And Slow Shift - No RPM Rise
Sep 20, 2012
2003 Explorer tranny. 4.0 V6, 213km (133 miles)... Biggest concern is 4-5 upshift shudder, no rpm rise, just a shudder and slow shift. Slight shudder on 3-4 too, I think. Some online reading points to torque converter failure.
Other symptoms: sometimes slams into gear when shifting out of park, other times it feels like there is no fluid in converter when first put into gear, especially after sitting a day or 2. (my truck does the same thing, but that's after sitting 2-3 weeks at a time)...
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My car is taking a long time shifting from reverse to drive in the morning. Do you know what may be causing it and how to fix it. It's a 1995 automatic ford explorer.
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I have a 03 f150 2wd with the 4.6l. Recently it has been slow shifting into reverse(about 2 full seconds) and when it finally gets in reverse it shudders when it comes under load. The fluid is full and not burnt...
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I own a 2003 Explorer, 4.0 v6, w/93k. When turning either direction from a stop I get a shudder from the rear end. Ford has issue tsb # 17717 but I cannot fix the fix, only a description of the problem. Where can I find a fix I wondered?
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I have a 2002 Ford Explorer and I am still trying to figure out why the coolant will overflow in the radiator reserve tank. I put in a new thermostat and a new cap to the overflow tank. When the tank is cold, sat over night, I put in new anti-freeze to the cold coolant line. Then I start up the explorer and let it run for a while. The temp gauge goes up, then drops a tad and cold air comes out of the vents.
After I rev up the engine, I see the coolant level starts to rise in the overflow tank, then it goes to the top and starts to leak out. This takes a while being the thermostat has not kicked in to suck the fluid in. Before this happens, the heater core lines are luke warm. After the tank overflows, the remaining gets sucked into the engine and I get nice warm heat. What causes this. I had the test done to see if the head gasket is bad. The test was negative.
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2001 F250 7.3 - warn manual hubs.. However, the wife has been driving the truck and I don't know how often she has cycled 4WD.
Basically if you choose 4WD hi it doesn't light up to indicate that it has engaged, if you drive for a couple of minutes slowly then eventually it drops in - not much use if you're already stuck. It will then select 4Lo. Coming out of 4Lo to 4Hi or 2WD is painfully slow - like 5-6 minutes before the dash light goes out for 2WD.
I was thinking maybe the electric motor for the transfer case - unless it is the transfer case dying.
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07/ES350. Feel vibrations when the lever is on D or R? It started to vibrate a little bit on D, when the engine is hot. No lights. I noticed that when I shift in D there's no rpm rise.
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This is on my 7.3PSD. I've observed that the 1-2 gear shift drops about 1,000 RPMs and takes a good half second or longer to do so when given a lot of accelerator pedal input. And then the 2-3 shift is a very quick and harsh shift.
If I am accelerating gently the 2-3 shift is as unnoticeable as the 1-2 shift is quick. Is the slow 1-2 shift causing the trans to protect itself and affecting the 2-3 shift? And if so, what do I do to resolve all of this? I changed the trans fluid a week ago and there is no change.
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It is a 2003 xlt 4.6 auto. sometimes, but not too often, when you shift from park to reverse nothing happens, no go backward.... even if you mash the go pedal. if you shift to drive then back to reverse it works fine. Not predictable enough to show it in failed mode to the mechanic. Is this a common simple fix? would this issue throw a code? (No blinking or idiot lights on dash when it does this) is there something I can tell the tranny guys to look at since it is on my dime? Somthing like a shift solenoid or something...
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2003 Ford Exploreer 4x4 5R55W Auto Tranny. From driving the car it does not shift into 2nd or 5th gear. The O/D light flashes, and the check engine light comes on. Gives Code P0775, which indicates a problem with Solenoid 2.
This weekend I changed the Shift Solenoid Pack with a brand new one from Ford, and the exact same problems still exist. It's as if I hadn't done anything to the car. I have read somewhere that 2nd and 5th gears share a band in the tranny, could the the problem.?
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I'm under the understanding that my 03 explorer AWD tranny level can't be checked. Is this true. Well anyway , went on a 1000 mile round trip. Left for work following morning and truck wouldn't shift to 2nd without letting off the gas. OD lite was flashing. Got to work. Left work and goes into 2nd fine but now it wont hit 3rd till I let off the gas. No OD lite flashing but now check engine lite is on. Watzz up. I would like to check the fluid....but see above.
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I have a 2007 f150 lariat with 88000 miles on it that I just bought and during slow throttle from 40-50. I am getting a sporadic shudder right when it goes into overdrive is worse when going up a light grade it goes away when i get to about 60 and whenever i give it full throttle it acts really sluggish like the tranny is slipping but it shifts very smooth.
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Looking at a truck at a dealership. 04 F150 Lariat 5.4 3v? 2wd SuperCrew 148k miles. Bone stock besides the bedliner.
Truck is pretty nice besides these 4 things. Kind of a shudder when taking off from a stop or a very slow speed. Adjustable pedals don't work.
New brakes, but possibly the rears are dragging a bit. Was able to turn them in neutral and the rear on jacks. Extra, guessing because of the newer looking battery, some systems lack data from the OBD2
I'm mainly concerned about the shudder from a complete stop/1-2mph. At the dealer, to leave the lot, the driveway was elevated. I think it showed very well climbing that hill. As it was noticed and played with the gas a bit. Otherwise, you stomp the gas, it may shudder for a second or two, (3-5 times?) once it hits about 3000 rpm in 1st, its fine. Only ever seemed to do it in 1st and never any other gear, never on any gear changes.
We lifted the rear end up on a jack and fiddled around. Put it in neutral and spun the wheels, tried to mess with the drive shaft... According to dad, who was looking at it with me said it was fine and that it's normal to have a little bit of slop, but I didn't notice any real slop myself, tried to push on the driveshaft on the transmission side and I think it may have moved a bit but it didn't feel loose or clang or anything. Although I didn't get to push on it too hard because he was rotating the driveshaft at the time.
I assume new fluids in engine and trans. My dad said something about old oil marks on the transmission pan area or something. Both to the fill line.
One thing that I wonder about is how long this truck has been sitting. I wonder about the differential clutches. I'm not that sure what it really has for the rear end. But google had mention of clutch packs in the rear. I wonder if because it's been sitting that the oil has settled out of the clutches or something. There was a mess of silicon on the rear diff cap area. Couldn't tell if it was new or not. I think we put 10-20 miles on it at least and only looked under it for maybe a half hour... Still did the clunk/shudder at a start from a stop, when we returned it.
So, what could be causing this clunk/chatter when talking off from a stop/1-2mph roll?
Axle wrap?
Differential Clutches?
Differential?
Driveshaft?
Transmission?
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2003 Ford Sport Trac with 4.0L SOHC engine
I started having this problem after I decided to do a tune up because of another minor unrelated problem (start up taking 2+ cranks sometimes and fine when gas is full... I'm going to replace the fuel pump for that but not until i resolve the more pressing issue)
Before the problem I had spark plugs and wires (all but #3) replaced by my dad and he also put in some Fuel Cleaner into the gas tank. He took it to a local mechanic and had the mechanic replace the #3 spark and wire and check the others and also replace the fuel filter.
After that my car was taken to jiffy lube where engine oil was changed... as well something else but I dont know what because no one is able to tell me.... my dad had one of his employees take it and the employee took it upon himself to get other things done but he doesn't know what.
And then when I got my car back after the weekend is when this issue started.
First I noticed a rattling (like a plastic is caught on a fan blade and it is hitting something as it goes round and round) right after engine is started. And on the roads, when I try to accelerate, it will accelerate- but very slowly as if my engine had no power.
When I floor my gas pedal, the car will continue to drive at a constant speed and I can start to hear a really fast rattling which I am not sure if it is the same thing making the rattling sound I hear at start up.
I've gotten the following codes : 300, 301, 303, 316
I have since then had my spark plugs rechecked, wires for #1, 2, 3 and 4 replaced with another brand. There was no long term change but I have noticed that every time messed with the wires (when spark plugs were changed, when wires were changed and when sparks were checked... etc) for about 3 drives right after it the car feels more powerful and smooth and then it will go back to driving like crap.
I have also changed the CKP sensor (advice of the Auto Zone) and there has been no change.
I have also replaced the coil pack this weekend and no change.
I have bought the more expensive wires but didn't change them since 2nd set for 1, 2, 3 and 4 has not made changes.
Currently: Only thing I have more noticed is that the car when first driven, feels okay at start up. I can accelerate from 0 to 30 with decent power and time and as long as i dont floor the gas and only lightly depress the gas the car will continue to accelerate with decent power and speed.
However, anytime the engine is strained (like going up a hill) I loose speed. and AFTER any time the engine is strained, i will no longer be able to accelerate with decent power and time.
The car at this point feels like it it trying, almost sounds and feels gritty if that makes any sense, and if i try to at least keep speed, the engine sounds change but no increase in speed. At this point I usually just try tapping lightly on the gas and it will eventually get upto 30mph and of course more effort to go beyond and continually increase the speed.
It takes me a good few minutes for me to go from 0 to 35 and another few minutes to get upto 45. (Now everyone drives around me after a complete stop because I cannot even get to 20 right away like most normal working cars.)
I really would hate to replace one part at a time to play guess and check but I also don't know any true mechanics in the area that can really drive, listen and look and determine what exactly is going on without playing guess and check with every little and big parts that are involved. I have seen some people replace the intake manifold, O2 sensors, CKP/CAM sensors, cylinders...
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Replaced the 2002 ford explorer 4x4 traction control module because of a shudder in first gear. With the new module the shudder disappeared but now the truck shifts into 4wd by itself and stays there. I am now on my 2nd new module because I returned the first one thinking it was defective.
If I cycle the 4x4 high switch and the 4x4 auto switch, the truck switches back int 2wd but on for a moment then goes back into 4wd. I don't get a 4x4high indicator light but I can hear and feel it is in 4wd. Almost like it thinks the truck needs work with the traction. I have now disconnected the module completely and the trucks runs/shifts beautifully in 2wd. I know my transmission is good. BTW, I have no trouble codes.
Do I have a bad speed sensor somewhere? and How do I trouble shoot for it?
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My mom wants to sell her 2002 Ford Explorer w/ 4.0 as enough kids have moved out that the vehicle is no longer needed. It has 162 000 mostly trouble free miles on it. However, for me to sell it for her, I need to get it running well first. The background:
Just recently it fried the alternator. No big deal, got a reman for my dad and he put it in. But now it has this sort of "shudder" at idle and low rpm, and also when accelerating slowly low in the revs. I don't know if it was there before or not because only my siblings drove it, and their not exactly observant. I am positive it is a misfire.
So far I have done the obvious. I have pulled all the plugs, they are nice and tan, re-gapped them (although they were only .002 out of spec at the most). I noticed that one plug wire was broken on the inside, where it connects to the plug. Thinking I solved the problem, I bought a new set of wires and put them on. No such luck however, as the problem continues unchanged. On the new wires, I have verified tons of spark making it through. In an effort to isolate the bad cylinder, thinking maybe it was actually a plug, I started pulling wires off the coil with it running. I could barely notice a change in the engine with any of them, and a couple seemed to have no change at all (again, I may just not have been able to detect it because I could barely make out the other changes).
Next, thinking maybe it was fuel related, I put a stethoscope on some of the injectors and they sounded the same, but I can not get at the back passenger and 2 back driver ones. How else can I test these?
I even went so far as to unplug IAC, engine died immediately so its not that. I also took off the EGR valve and cleaned it, and pushed the plunger up and down lots and it moves freely. I tried pulling off the vaccuum line from the EGR with the engine running and there was no change, but that doesn't really mean anything does it?
So I put it all back together and thats how it sits for the night. On a related note, the CEL is on, but it is on more often than not on that thing, and my dad has taken it to a dealer three times to have codes read and nothing ever shows up. The mechanics keep saying that it has something to do with the fuel cap and pressure or something.
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First off, I just traded another vehicle for a 97 mountaineer, 5.0 v8 AWD with about 171k miles on it. Runs and drives real nice, but on occasion under normal acceleration i get a slight shudder when it shifts into high gear. The tranny fluid does look and smell a bit old, but not burnt. I plan on changing it if you think it would fix the problem and not cause more.
Also, I think the ball joints are shot. The camber is in on the front tires and i get some pretty good clunks when I go over bumps in the road. Steering wheel is tight. I jacked it up and tried wiggling the tires but i couldn't get them to move like that. I'm assuming ball joints still though right? And if so, how hard of a job is that for a DIY'er?
Also i noticed a bit of a whine coming from under the truck when turning into my driveway. Transfer case I'm assuming? What could cause a slight whine and how do i fix it? I plan on changing the fluid in that too.
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My wife's having trouble with her '02 Explorer 4x4 V8 XLT.
Today I experienced a violent steering wheel shudder that I would describe as the old "death wobble" you hear about on solid axle trucks, Early Broncos, Jeeps, etc.
At 55mph, in a slight right hand turn, a little bit of a bump in the road triggered it. I held on to it as the steering wheel was rotating left and right a few degrees (maybe ~10deg) and it wouldn't stop until I slowed down to around 35mph.
I crawled underneath and didn't see anything obviously bad (tie rod ends, ball joints, etc).
Then I noticed when turning the steering wheel (with the engine running, but parked) I could feel it shuddering slightly as I turned it.
The PS pump makes quite a bit of noise so I wonder if its on the way out.
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My Explorer is a 1997 with the control trac 4x4 system. It's only purpose in life at the moment is to plow snow and its been doing that quite well. I typically leave it in 4lo all the time. Every once in a while, I will switch it to the other modes to ensure they are all working.
Today I was plowing and it looks like I'm getting nothing, or next to nothing to the front wheels. There is some shudder if the rear tires begin to spin, but the front never spin, or lock up. I can feel/hear the transfer case shift when I change modes between auto/4hi/4lo as I usually do, but the front wheels just are not doing their job. All three modes are not driving the front wheels.
The transmission was rebuilt a few years ago, and it's shifting fine. I'm suspecting the transfer case. Only my OD light is flashing, but it only does that once in a blue moon. I plugged my code reader in and it could not read those codes. I was able to clear the light though.
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All - I've got a 2010 LR D4 (UK Spec) and within the past two weeks it has developed a strong shudder and skipping when I am turning at slow speeds. It is worst when I am backing up and turning the wheel (like when backing out of a parking spot). It feels like the problem is coming from the left rear side of the vehicle, but it is a noticeable, strong shudder and skipping.
I have taken it into my local dealer for service, but they have not yet been able to identify the problem.?
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Our 2002 Explorer E.B., V6 4wd 153,000 miles, when cold only in winter months the transmission is slow to go into gear, forward or reverse, takes 10 or 15 seconds to catch into gear. If you warm the car up for 5 minutes or so it is ok no problem. In warm weather it does not do this. Transmission shifts normally and runs great other than this. I changed tranny fluid and filter with Mercon V about 12 months ago. Could it be the solenoid pack or something else.
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