Ford - Explorer :: 2004 - RPM Related Squeal Which Gets Louder If Heater / AC Fan Is Turned On
Mar 31, 2012
Have a 2004 Sport Trac with approx 78,000 miles. My daughter drives the vehicle around town. Approx. 2 weeks ago when she started it a loud squeal came from under the hood. I raised the hood and determined it was coming from the serpentine belt. I sprayed some lubricant on the belt and the sound went away, temporarily. I took the vehicle to a local mechanic. He thought the belt needed to be replace and did so. He showed me the old belt and commented that the old belt was in great shape and he could not determine where the sound came from. He also was able to spray lubricant on the belt and make the sound stop for a while. The squeal is definitely rpm related and also gets louder if the heater/ac fan is turned on. I have been reading alot on the internet about such problems with this vehicle and am getting really concerned. If it were the harmonic balancer would the vehicle still be operating this length of time since it started making the noise? What does replacing the harmonic balancer involve.
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Further investigation I figured it was the the flap opening and closing. Whenever I push the recirculate button to open and close the vent it squeals. Is there a way I can lubricate the vent?
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So my defrost works and my floor works but when i put my heater on defrost/floor mix it only comes out in the floor not the windshield.
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I'm hoping it's a small simple fix when I climb under the hood. Has happened before, but was an easy fix. The smell is much stronger this time. Any major problems any of you have had if I can't find the culprit?? Learning as I go...always up for checking on every possibility.
2004 F250 SUPER DUTY 6.0 ......
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I have an '04 Explorer Limited and lately only blows cold air. I've read about the blend door motors but it's been too cold in MI to want to do much--so the truck sits.
When I was troubleshooting the problem I found that I'm not getting any vacuum signal to the heater valve in the coolant line. Before I contemplate removing the console & doing surgery on my dash I'd like to know for sure what position the valve should be in when heat is called for.
All the other vacuum actuators seem to be working normally and there's no disconnected hoses under the dash; and no leaks. Coolant reservoir is full.
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I've got a 2004 Cavalier and when the heater is turned on it makes a clicking noise (sounds like someone on a snare drum playing over and over again) You can feel it if you touch the bottom of the Heater/AC module on the passenger side of the car above your feet. It stops when you turn the heater control to the recirculation position.
My guess is it's the recirculation door actuator motor, but I can't find it through NAPA or any automotive parts online sites, what the Chevy part number is for this, and/or a parts blowup of the HVAC module? Also, the factory service manual I've got says that the entire HVAC unit needs to be drained of 134 and removed from the vehicle to replace this actuator, does it can be done without removing the entire unit? From the few pictures it shows of where the actuator is, that part appears to be near the top (that's why I'd like to see a parts blowup if possible).
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I bought a 04 explorer with a bad thermostat which led to a bad head gasket, fixed that and managed to not have to buy the special tools or time it , but now that its running I don't have any heat. I have complete service records on this vehicle and there was never a complaint of the heater not working. The a/c works and the heat will adjust the a/c temp, but no heat. In trouble shooting it I found that I am not getting vacuum to call for the coolant to enter the heater core. When I apply suction to it, it will send the coolant. Even though I wasn't getting the clicking noise, I pulled the blend door actuator and it looks surprisingly good (not looking forward to putting it back in). Where to look next?
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I have a 2004 Subaru Forester, today when I turned on the heater fan I noticed that electrical (melting) smell, and the fan thus only ran very slowly on setting three and mostly okay on setting four, but not really at all on setting one or two. I found where the fan is located, but was wondering if it is the blower motor or the blower motor resister. I think on high, the blower motor by-passes the resister, and it seemed as though the smell really only occurred when I had the blower set on a lower setting. The resister is about $45 and the blower is about $145. If I can get by with only replacing the resister, that would be cool because I am assuming a new blower motor does not come with a new resister attached and I would have to buy that separately.
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So today my brother was changing oil and he turned on the car after the pan and filter were drained and the car was on for good 15-20 seconds before it was turned off. It was driven a few miles after I put in the oil.The car is running but the engine seems a little louder than before. Just wanted to know how significant of damage has been caused and what to expect in the next few days, months, years!!?? If it ever gets to see them.
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My 2006 BMW 530i's heater fan sounds like it has a bad bearing. The noise is similar to that of a leaf hitting a fast moving blade. The noise is intermittent and seems to be worse when the weather is cold. The noise gets louder when I turn to the left and quieter when I turn to the right. When I turn the heater off and restart the noise is often gone.
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1997 Ford F150, 6cyl, 138K miles. The truck has a loud squeal when the wheels are turned. This occurs when it's stopped or at low speeds (can't really tell if it's happening at other speeds ?). A friend who's a mechanic, upon hearing the noise, said he thought it was either tie rods or ball joints. I replaced the tie rods (original ones) and the squeal remains. Is there any definitive way to determine if indeed the ball joints are causing this noise ? When I posted before, someone suggested I may have a bad serpentine belt pulley, but the noise seems to be coming from the front end, and not under the hood.
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I have a 98 ford explorer just changed the alternator and now its running rough also it sounds louder than normal from the muffler. I am clueless, what the problem can be?
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I have an '03 Ford Explorer (V8) and recently had a rebuilt engine installed (at 135,000 miles). As soon as I got the car back, the engine whined and it's getting louder. The whine starts immediately but it louder when the accelerator is pressed. The sound reminds me of a car with bad power steering, but it's so much louder and doesn't correlate to turning the wheel, but pressing the gas pedal.
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I have a 1997 Explorer, AWD. On Sunday, the right front side started making a really loud, high-pitched squeal, which stops when I step on the brake. I had my mechanic check it, and my brakes are in fine shape (replaced by the same mechanic less than a year ago), so why is this happening?
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2003 Chevy Tracker (same as Suzuki Gran Vitara) v6 2.5L
For about a year, it has had belt squeal on starting, which lasts about 5 minutes..it's louder when AC was on..would go away with higher RPMs. Once the car was warmed though, no squeal. Ac has been working very well and blowing cold whole time. Finally it around to replacing belt, which was a difficult.
Tightened with an idler pulley type system(not spring loaded). Started it up, squealed a little on start, but went away..turned on AC and the squeal is horribly loud now and constant..high rpms only make it louder. Noticed that clutch engages fine, but spins inconsistently..like we'll the belt is slipping. It spins slow, fast, slow..etc. I can't tighten anymore as the tightening bolt is at the end of the channel, don't want to strip it. Also noted that it is about a bolt head width more tight than its previous position.
Surely changing the belt wouldn't cause the clutch to bite it would it?
Other notes...drives great when ac is not on. This is an acc only belt..ac,idler,power steering. Also, during the repair, antifreeze got on the pulleys..I cleaned them all around with generous spray of brake cleaner..they look clean.
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The front driver's side wheel of my 2007 Ext. Cab makes a speed-related "ticking" sound. It's usually audible but not always there. I look for rocks in the tread of my BFG All-Terrains and sometimes I find some, sometimes not. The noise seems to be independent although some of the rocks really get up in there. Sometimes its really loud and it sounds like a rock. Bearing? 4WD CV or U-Joints or whatever?
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I have a 2004 F150, 5.4L V8. A few years back I was in an accident when someone slammed into the front of my truck. The right front wheel & tire took the brunt of the accident. I thought the repair shop had everything back to normal until recently I occasionally have a grinding sound coming from the right front side, seems to be related to the axle. It doesn't do it all the time just at random while I'm driving. The only solution I can find is to pull over or slow my speed to a crawl. Once I slow down enough or turn my wheel one way or the other its like something SLAMS back into place. I had it looked at by a local mechanic and they couldn't find anything wrong. Could it be something in my right front axle?
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I have an 02 Elantra GT. I was dropping off a friend who knows cars and went to turn around, turned the wheel to full lock to make the turn and heard a squeal. I asked my friend what it was and he said it was the P/S and I just needed to add some P/S fluid. I got some fluid and sure enough when I went to fill up the reservoir it was below to MIN line, not too much below but still below it. I filled up the fluid and didn't hear the problem for the rest of the day but this morning I heard the same noise when I was leaving for work. I figured the fluid had to work its way though but am not sure if there is something else I should check or do.
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2003 CC 4x4 ... I am pretty sure I know what is going on, but I wanted to start a thread for when I confirm it. I am driving to work this AM and I hear the door ajar chime and I think to myself, uh oh...gauges all look good, there are no lights illuminated on the dash. I get to work and turn the truck off and my fan stays on. I think the ignition module is going bad. Either that, or my remote start is going on the fritz. I will update when I find out more.
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My 95 explorer heater only blows out cold air. I have topped off the antifreeze and just replaced the thermostat. The engine operating temperature is very cold, it won't even come up to the first mark. It is very cold here in Utah but I still can't imagine why the engine won't heat up.
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My Ford Explorer blows warm air instead of hot air and it's getting colder and my windows get fogged up. I fixed my clicking sound behind the dash.
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