Ford - Explorer :: 2004 V8 Engine Won't Accelerate Past 1800 Rpm
Jul 11, 2016
It's a 2004 4wd 4.6 v8 with 140,000 miles. My wife was driving around town today and had to park it at her daughter's house because even if you floor it,the engine will only rev to about 1500-1800 rpm's and idles really low,maybe 600 rpm. she said right before it started running bad,there was a bad smell. Also there is a humming/rattling noise that sounds like it's coming from the upper intake/throttle body area. I went and looked at it,tried to pull codes.
The check engine light isn't on and there are no codes stored in the computer. A couple of days ago,there was code po420 (Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1)and the check engine light was on. Engine was running fine. I cleared the code,and it never came back. I am not sure this is related,just trying to give all info possible.
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My truck has 57k miles on it. At 1800-2100 RPM it whines under or over it is just fine. it has a new air filter in it as well, still makes the noise, it doesn't matter what gear i am in, it only does this under load. if i free rev it , it will not do it.
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[URL] ....
Ratchet buzz noise my truck makes. Is not present until motor warms up. Noise is not present as much at idle but when you accelerate upwards to 1800 RPMs it makes such an obnoxious buzzing noise its embarrassing. Noise seems to come from top center area of motor.....
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1994 E350 Club Wagon 351w, E4OD Transmission. New MLPS, New VSS, New TPS, New Fluid, New Filter, 5 year old Torque Converter.
The Transmission dribbled a little bit from the front pump seal a couple weeks ago, I checked the level, it was a bit low. Topped it off with Lucas, the dribble stopped. I drove it successfully for another week. I took it on a 10 mile trip, and 5 miles in, it started slipping above, 35mph, I let off the accelerator, and the transmission "Caught up" and I drove 35mph the rest of the trip. I let it sit over night.
The next morning it acted as if nothing were wrong. I drove it some more, and the same thing happened. I parked it, and revved the engine up a bit, and it tried to MOVE in park, I put it in neutral and revved the engine, and it lurched as if it were still in 1rst gear.
This time I let it sit for 24 hours, and after work I successfully put 20 miles on it without missing a beat. It was shifting right, good solid connection between the gas pedal and the road, and I thought the problem was fixed, as the temperature the day before was -20, and it warmed up outside to 30 degrees above.
I parked it for a couple hours and went to go do the errands, and it wouldn't make it above 15mph. It even struggled to do that much. I put it in reverse, and it held great, no slipping at all.
Let it sit until the next morning, and it was better. I pulled the Codes, and it gives me a 63(7) TOT High, and a 62(9) Torque Converter Clutch. It may or may not be relative, but Cruise hasn't worked in about 6 months either. What am I missing here? What could possibly causing this trouble? Fluid is up and new.
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I have a 1992 ford mustang 4 cylinder,its messed up bad.my car is shaking bad all the time and will not go faster than 40mph.what is wrong??
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I have a 2003 Mach 1 Mustang, ( 4.6 DOHC 32 Valve)....
When I start my car in the morning. Idling the car sounds normal and perfect with my SLP exhaust. But when I start to go on my merry way, when I’m in 1st and 2nd gear and I accelerate past about 2.8K rpm's. I hear a really quite noticeable pingy/tingy sounds from my engine (Yes sounding like that annoying AMMCO commercial with people making noises). This will continue for a little while when i get into my normal running temperature, the sound isn’t as "Loud" so to say but still present.
I can comfortably say that there is nothing loose within the engine compartment. My spark plugs are tightened to the proper amount. I experience no performance lost as well. This has just been a nuisance since I have purchased the car, it currently has almost 60k mileage and has followed the proper maintenance.
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I have a 1998 Subaru Legacy Outback (automatic) that has 176,779miles on it. I live in San Francisco and only drive the car occasionally every 2-3 weekends out of the city. Recently within the past month I have noticed that after turning on my car and once it is in drive for the first 10-15 minutes it has a hard time getting past 20 mph. When I put the foot on the accelerator to go past 20mph the rpm goes way up to 4, 5 or 6. Once it gets past this then car is smooth and I have no problems. This problem seems to go away within 10-15 minutes of driving or if I turn my car off and then on again it seems to go away. I called my mechanic and they said it could be that the transmission fluid is low. I checked the level and it is perfectly normal.
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My car is a 2005 1.8T Passat; About two weeks after replacing a burnt spark plug coil the vehicle started displaying EPC and a caution sign embedded in a circled arrow, whenever this happens i discover the vehicle does not accelerate past 80 mph even when the throttle pedal is pressed to the extreme; I replaced the engine speed sensor all to no avail, a used throttle body also behaved same way, what is responsible for this and how to rectify the problem?
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93 Mercury Cougar 3.8L V6 with just over 83,000 miles
l've been trying to figure out this issue for ages, but can't seem to find the root of the issue. When driving and accelerating to 40mph, the rpms drop and GET STUCK at exactly 1000rpm. Forcing the accelerator down makes the engine bog and sputter and not go any faster. No check engine lights whatsoever.
The idle is very rough and low in park (700rpm compared to the regular 900) and very low in drive (500 compared to 650-750). When stopped in traffic for a while, it begins to shudder and shake like it wants to stall right there. Now let me run down the extensive list of parts l've thrown at it, bringing only temporary results:
Replaced catalytic converter
Replaced IAC valve
Replaced O2 sensors
Rebuilt transmission (runs great, so l've ruled that out)
Replaced 1fuel injector
Replaced MAF sensor
Replaced motor mounts
Cleaned throttle body extensively
I asked a guy at a Firestone and he said that l needed a valve job. Asked another guy at another place, he said l needed a fuel system cleaning. Asked another guy under a tree, said l needed a new speed sensor. What could be the root issue? l was thinking carbon build up over 22 years maybe? Almost all 83k of those miles have been city miles...
This car is my baby, all l want is for it to be able to handle highway speeds without a hiccup. l'm keeping it and plan to see 100k hit the odometer and many more miles!
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Okay I have a 2001 Vw Jetta 1.8t Wolfsberg.
I have done a few mods:
- Oil catch can
- Boost gauge
- New turbo (5000 miles old)
- Brake booster mod
- PCV system fixed and some hose deletes (that make the intake manifold have one line off of it rather than two)
- Timing belt/ pulleys
- Accessory belt / pulley
- A few other things but nothing to cause this
The car will do this randomly. And I mean once every two weeks of that. I will go to accelerate and the boost gauge says the "boost" is at zero and no matter how much I give it gas, it won't go past zero and stutters. But it stops almost as fast as it starts. I don't get it...
My catch can has 3/4" line to about 1/2" or so, that meets the oil catch can. (Ebay with the blue hose.) I have new plugs, all new (dealership recommended) lubes, all kinds of new small odds and ends. But it's never done this before. (3rd time now in a month..)
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I have a 1997 Ford Explorer with 5.0, I have replaced the thermostat and the radiator cap, I drive the truck to work in the mornings (12miles) and it is fine. We live on a mountain and on the way home after getting to the top of the mountain the temperature gauge goes past middle and nears the red but does not overheat completely. Once home I open the hood and the overflow is steaming or sometimes boiling, and I have checked thermostat again to make sure and it is operating normal, I have been told fan clutch, water pump, and I don't want to just throw money at guesses.
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I'm driving a 97 Accord SE and it's suffering from a few issues that have me worried to say the least. For one, when I filled the radiator with water I noticed that it was cloudy/oily. Something was definitely in there with the water.
Two, I foolishly drove it thinking it would be fine. After 50 feet or so however problems started happening. I couldn't accelerate past 20mph. If I tried by putting my foot down on the gas nothing would happen but the RPMs going up. Each time I started the car I could go a little ways before pushing on the gas did nothing. Then I would have to restart the car in order to get anywhere with it.
Some background, I got my oil changed today after going about 1000 miles over when it should have been changed. Also, when it was scanned in the past the error code 0420 showed up. That has something to do with either the catalytic converter running rich or the O2 sensors above and below it might be broken.
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I have a 2002 Chevy Impala driving it in the city of Chicago. It's recently had the oil changed, and the transmission fluid flushed and filter replaced. This car was mine before I went off to school, and I meticulously maintained it for three years, and then my step sister inherited it. She drove it for two years, and then it sat in the driveway for a year and a half. It's got about 175,000 miles on it.
Problem: Every time I start to accelerate past 25mph and get around 2000rpms, the car starts to give out, sputter and jerk. It starts to drop off right when it should be shifting to second gear. When on the highway, even if I floor the gas peddle, it won't accelerate normally, but instead just crawls slowly to higher speeds.
It will eventually reach the higher speeds, but it takes about 5-10 minutes for it climb up from 25mph. I don't know enough about this level of car trouble to make a diagnosis myself, and would like an estimate of the cost for repairs. Also the car is getting around 19mpg on the highway, which I need to improve if I'm going to survive the $4.50/gal of Chicago gas. I'm hoping that fixing this problem will take care of that as well.
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2006 Ford Escape XLT 3.0L DOHC - starts and idles fine. good power up to about 1800 rpm and then again above about 2100 rpm. Problem only exhibits under load (going up hill). Problem does not exhibit in low gears. No engine codes. Replaced TPS. Jumped out EGR to test it - still happened. I could be wrong, but I do not suspect fuel delivery or spark problems because the engine runs fine above 2100 rpm. So, basically I can start up a long hill and everything is fine until I get to about 40 mph (it's an automatic, but I think it's in third gear by now) then the car starts bucking (engine sputtering). But once I get through that, about 45 mph, it runs great - plenty of power, I can race it right up to 70 mph and beyond.
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have been lurking the forum for the last several months ever since I bought my 2008 F150. I bought it used from a dealership and have had it at their shop no less than seven times since I bought it in March, all for the same things.
The first thing I noticed shortly after buying the truck was that after the truck warmed up it would idle rough. My chief complaint by far, I took the truck in to be looked at and this is when all the real fun began. Similarly I had intermittent power steering that I asked to have looked at.
I was told the fuel filter was completely clogged. They cleaned it and assured me all was well. They also bled the power steering system because apparently someone had changed the PS pump and not bled the system afterwards. I got into the truck to leave and it was idling no better than when I dropped it off. I complained again and was told that "this is just how this truck idles" and called BS. They offered to have the throttle body cleaned for me the next day to alleviate any remnants of rough idle.
Had the throttle body cleaned the next day and took the truck home. After about an hour or two I was still thoroughly dissatisfied with the idle and called back to complain. I forgot to mention that I bought my truck from a Chevrolet dealer who had just taken it in on trade about three days before I bought it. Because I complained they offered to send the truck to a Ford dealership for further diagnosis.
The Ford dealership found fouled plugs, a cracked intake manifold and the water pump and fan clutch both had excessive play. They said those would create a rocking sensation which could be misinterpreted as a rough idle. Over $2500 the Chevy dealership paid them and I was called to come pick up the truck.
I didn't even make it out of the parking lot because the truck was whining something fierce. I couldn't believe no one QC'd the vehicle and complained again. Next morning I am called and they said that the Ford dealership had put the intake manifold gasket in wrong and it had been corrected and I could come pick up the truck.
I go pick up the truck and note that not only is the idle still not right, but now the truck is making a hissing/squealing noise when the truck hits 1800/1900 RPM's. Its strange because its not really RPM specific as it is specific to the pedal position. Accelerating or decelerating causes it to go away but its there nonetheless. Whats worse is that in highway driving at 65 MPH, the pedal is in just the wrong position and it hisses constantly. This sound never goes away...and once its been heard its impossible to unhear.
I complain again and they send the truck back to the Ford dealership. At this point I'm dealing directly with the Director of Service because mine has become a high priority case. The Service Director drives with me, confirms my problem and takes the truck himself to Ford. He drives with their shop foreman and they too confirm the problem.
A week goes by and Ford tells him its wind noise. This is complete bullarky because it happens whether I'm going 20 or 65. He calls them on it and they keep the truck another couple days. They call back and say the truck has nothing mechanically wrong with it and that they are done. Service Director goes and picks up the truck and takes it to a second Ford dealership.
Three days go by and they call and claim Eureka! We've found the problem! Clogged catalytic converter causing air flow restrictions. They replace two converters and I go to pick up the truck. It runs like garbage. Further the sound is still there. Call Chevy, leave the truck and take their loaner back home. Next morning Ford's Foreman calls and basically tells me that there's nothing else wrong with my truck and that he even reprogrammed the PCM (which is why it runs to bad all the time now I guess) to get rid of the idle problems.
Long story short here's everything thats been done:
- Cleaned a clogged fuel filter
- Replaced fouled plugs
- Replaced the intake manifold and gaskets
- Replaced the fan belt
- Replaced the fan clutch
- Replaced the water pump
- Replaced two catalytic converters
- Cleaned the throttle body
- Bled the PS system
- Reprogrammed the PCM and transmission control module
After all of this I still have a hissing sound when I accelerate (video 1:
It seems the truck runs worse once its warmed up and even worse once the AC is turned on. I'm sure he programmed the PCM wrong and thats what is causing the truck to run rough.
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My 2005 F150 makes a diesel sound when I accelerate. It only does it between 1600 to 1800 RPM and stops. It only does it in overdrive. Its a 5.4 liter with about 95000 miles on it. What this could be? I cant tell if the noise is coming from the tranny or engine.
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I have a 2002 for explorer 4wd 4.0 it won't accelerate. it's fine to 25, but it pings, and won't go over 40. I've changed to the plugs, wires, coil pack and fuel filter. I've also checked the fuel pressure, and it's 65psi. no codes are being set. I've been told plugged cat, but they're welded on, and no way to test them...
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Experience a grinding noise at around 1500-1800 rpm when driving?
The noise sounds like the 2nd gen valve spring start up but not as loud.
The dealer was able to replicate the noise on my car but they don't know what is causing it.
They called the regional guy to come look at it but he doesn't have a clue where or what is causing the noise.
2015 350fpsort
30k miles
Noise starts at around 10K-15k miles and dealer couldn't replicate it then but I hear it everyday.
Update with video : [URL] ....
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Not sure who wants to ruin my night, but here's what popped up for codes:
Also, the engine sounds like a sewing machine when revving up to about 1,800 RPMs, then the engine sounds fine. Lastly, the far camshaft makes a knocking at idle after engine warms up.
If this indeed needs a timing replacement, I've done everything on the car myself, but this would be a stretch.
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Might be a long shot here, but I JUST had this noise/rattle pop up in my '12 GTI 6MT w/ 13k miles.
Turns out I found someone who posted a video with basically the same noise:
Another one:
I hear the same noise while stopped and revving the engine as well as when driving if I let off the throttle and let the RPM's sweep down past the same rev range (1,800-2,000). Sounds like it's coming from the passenger side area.
I'm under warranty so I'm going to take it to the dealership...but I know how they can be with rattles.
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I have a 2000 Ford Explorer XLT. V6, 4x4
At very low speeds (5-10 mph), attempting to accelerate while turning (like coming out of a parking lot OR out of a curve) the transmission fails to engage. I hit the gas, the RPMs go up, but it doesn't get into gear. I will let off the gas, give it a couple seconds, hit the gas again and usually it engages. Sometimes I will have to repeat this step a second time. This problem started very slowly and has gradually gotten worse. It happens about once a day.
Concerned, I took it to the local Ford dealership and they have thus far changed/flushed the transmission fluid and replaced the filter. The mechanic said he found no metal shavings in the fluid, which might indicate grinding gears. They also said there were no codes coming up pointing to a transmission problem. It is still having the same exact issue however. The trouble now is they cannot "verify" the problem. The mechanics have put 40+ miles on it in similar driving scenarios and it will not act up for them.
After a couple weeks of back-and-forth, I'm really frustrated. My understanding is that they're "not sure" it is a transmission problem. They don't really want to open up the transmission case until they have a place to start. It should either be something mechanical with the transmission or a problem with the computer that controls the transmission, right? After getting off the phone with the mechanic today he said it might be a sticky throttle body?
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