Ford - Explorer :: 2010 XLT 4X4 4.0L Will Not Start
Oct 3, 2016
My wife's 2010 Explorer XLT 4X4 4.0L will not start. I've been working on it most of the day, trying to get it going. I've checked the fuses. The fuel pump relay is fine. The truck cranks fine, but will not turn over.
Fuel Pressure- Currently unknown. I do not have a pressure gauge and cannot locate the schrader valve to test it if I had one. Where do I look for this?
I have also tried resetting the inertia switch. No luck. Once I can test pressure, I'll know if the pump is out or not.
Spark- Plugs were replaced after we noticed a gap bordering on .080" Plugs looked worn, but not damaged or any negative conditions. I don't have a spark tester to verify it has spark. I'm about to try pulling one and cranking while it's out of the block to observe it.
Air- No issues noted. Filter is clean and the truck was having 0 issues yesterday.
Cranking- Oddly the truck will continue to crank for about 5-10 seconds after releasing the key. I'm not sure why this is or if this is even related. The truck seems to have a pre-set crank time until the truck stops trying to turn over.
View 1 Replies
Advertisement
I just bought a 2010 Explorer XLT on Saturday with 7,200 miles on it. Everything is great on it, but we noticed a vibration at about 60 -70 mph. Im thinking/hoping tires might need balancing. It does semm to subside a little when slight turn to the left and increase when sight turning to the right (like lane changes). Were/are there problems with the auto 4wd and the sensors? This is still under warrenty until 4/13, but tire balancing is not covered under warrenty. I'm taking it back to the dealer today under the 30 day warrenty that they offer, but they seemed really cool as far as if you just bought it and it vibrates, we will fix it. They say and have so far want us to be totally satisfied. I hate dealing with car dealers worse than going to the dentist, but this was a relatively pleasant experience. Let me know what you all think. I told the wife we were getting a brand new 2010 Explorer and she said that didn't make sense. I said with 7,000 mile on it it was like a brand new car. We need to get rid of the vibration now.
View 6 Replies
I have a 2010 Ford Explorer and my air conditioning unit is working, however, I am not getting any air flow thru the interior vents. How can I fix this ?
View 5 Replies
I have a 2010 explorer 4.0 v6 ... Everything was fine then while going to the store I lost power. Put my foot to the floor and was going no where...
I turned around tried to make it home. Truck died ... Towed it home as it would not start ...
Friend put reader on it came up with a lot of codes. Fixed everything it said i.e.,
. o2 sensor
MASS sensor
Well here is the problem It starts now but runs way rough ...
Put reader on it and it is reading i need to replace MAP SENSOR
No. Part store carries it .. Called ford deal they said my explorer does NOT. Have a MAP sensor
Why is it saying i need to replace it then Still cant drive cause no power/ runs to rough ....
View 14 Replies
2010 v6 4wd. I have some growling in my front end. I got the truck in the air and neither wheel has any wobble (to check the front wheel hub assembly). I got under the truck and disconnected the large plug going into the T/C. Still noisy.
This truck used to be so quiet, but a couple years ago I had uneven tires that caused the 4wd to be on a ton. I just replaced all 4 a few weeks ago and that did not change the noise.
Is it possible that a bearing is still the culprit even without wobble? I can weave right and left and cannot notice it getting better or worse.
Also noticing my gas mileage dipping over the years, I am down to low 18s/high 17s with somewhat highway miles (2 miles of my commute around 35mph and the other 18ish going around 55 with 1 or 2 stops).
View 2 Replies
I have 2010 explorer. I have to add almost 200 ml of coolant in my reservoir every week. there is no sign of a leak from anywhere even at thermostat manifold as well. but one question, when the car is running for at least 1 hour, the coolant level at reservoir shall be around FULL HOT Level and when car cools down overnight, it should be at around FULL COLD LEVEL. is it right? if yes, then my level remains little more than FULL COLD when the car is hot and when it cools over night, level goes little down than FULL COLD. like this every week I have to add almost 200 ml of coolant. radiator CAP is okay and I replaced it few months back. no apparent sign of leak. any clue what can be reason?
View 2 Replies
My 2010 Ford Explorer experienced a radiator leak between the radiator and the plastic tank on the top, so I replaced that, we were still not experiencing any heat while driving it. I watched a couple of videos on how to "burp" the system, to no avail.
Next I replaced the thermostat, and "burped" it again, still no heat, so I drained and flushed the system yet again and still no heat. What else is there to check? I have the Haynes manual and did the flush and fill the way the book said and still have no heat I am about to lose my mind.
The blend doors sound like they are opening. They are not clicking like they are broken.
The heater is on full the entire time, I have not rotated the dial since I started this.
I unplugged one of the hoses on the heater core and blew into it, the hose was bone dry and I blew into the end of the hose and fluid came out of the cabin side metal tube. I also plugged a water hose into the tube and ran water through it to make sure it wasn't clogged, it is not. Front and rear heater cores.
Here is everything thing I have done from the start:
- Replaced Radiator.
- Replaced Thermostat.
- Drain and flush and re-service.
- Checked for leaks out of the water pump weep hole (none) and operation of pump, the upper hose gets hot and I feel water go through it when the thermostat opens.
- Check the radiator cap for pressure, it opens at 20psi and hold between 17-19psi. Replaced radiator cap anyway.
- Removed supply hose and ran coolant to purge trapped air.
- Ran water through the supply and return hoses on the heater core. On the front and rear.Check operation of heater control valve, works.
- Turned vehicle on while watching the exhaust pipe, a small amount of water on initial start up in the morning but no smoke.
Problems still occurring:
-Drive vehicle it over heats but returns to normal at idle I also get the coolant light that extinguishes when the car returns to idle. Even though it says its overheating the car has not pushed coolant into the expansion tank.
- The car will not take any more coolant, and only overheats after the fan comes on. And still no heat.
Should add, 4.0L engine, no oil in water after flush and the engine oil looks like engine oil not milky. Next step was a water pump???
View 7 Replies
I bought my wife a 2010 Explorer a couple years ago, nice car but when it gets to 0 or -0 it wont move. After idling for an hour and some persuasion with the throttle it will lunge forward and then there is no issue until it is shut off and cooled down again. I'm wondering if there could be water in the tranny and its freezing but there is no way to check it.
View 4 Replies
The vehicle was parked in driveway for a week not previously involved in any collision or rough terrain
When do try to start is only runs for 1 second
The inertia switch was not set
There is 50+- lbs pressure in the fuel line when the switch is first turned on
Hitting the inertia switch will cause the switch to set
The switch will reset
Testing for continuity when the switch is normal there is no "juice" from pole 1 to pole 2 and 3
After activating e.g. hitting the switch there is "juice" for pole 1 to pole 2
Am I wrong in thinking it is the inertia switch....
View 7 Replies
1991 Ford Explorer XLT, 4X4, 4.0L push-rod motor, 315,000K
Problem Part 1: Excessive fuel consumption
Codes for O2 sensor, system lean, some black smoke, unburnt fuel smell, some slight hesitation when accelerating from a stop
I replaced the 02 sensor, replaced the IAC, cleaned the MAF, replaced the coil pack, replaced the plugs, replaced the plug wires, replaced fuel filter, replaced air cleaner, replaced the PVC valve changed brand of fuel, checked tires and "brake binding" - NOTHING. Truck ran "fine" other than excessive fuel consumption. I decided to replace the fuel pressure regulator and before I could get to the parts store we have...
Problem Part 2:
Truck begins to lope along like there is one bad cylinder. It sometimes "fixes" then comes back (all this over a period of 3 days).
Day 4 it's dead - no start.
The motor cranks, the fuel pump "pumps" 3-5 secs KOEO fuel line is clear, return line is clear, filter is clear. There is fuel at the Schrader valve (do not know pressures) and the electrical system seems OK (sparks to all 6cyl). I believe the crank position indicator is OK because the CEL is on KOEO but goes out when cranking. I have no codes because I needed to remove the battery to re-charge. Fuel pump fuse is OK.
Only other information that may (or may not) be relevant is that lately it is slow to heat up. It does not come off "cold" (for the last 4 days). Maybe it's the thermostat or temperature sending unit? Maybe it's because its -30C here. It heats up fine if I block the airflow across the radiator (the old carboard solution).
I have not checked the relay. Where this unit is on the 1991? Don't say fuel pump.
View 14 Replies
We reset the alarm and we have power but all the car will do is click while trying to start, what's wrong.
View 1 Replies
I am installing a Parrot Asteroid Smart into a 2010 XLT without sub or sync. I will also be hooking up a reverse camera. All wires are ran and the harness is built. I have two wires that I am having problems with to make everything function correctly.
Coming from the Parrot, I need to tap into the Reverse Gear and Park Brake. They are separate wires. Where can I tap into these wires? On the side of the shifter I do see three wires but I am not sure where they are going.
View 1 Replies
I bought a 2010 V8 Explorer on Monday and aside from the apparent "known issue" with the hard 2-1 shift (which I'm trying to get it to "unlearn" by driving differently), it's a really nice truck.
When I shift into reverse it says "Park Aid On/Off" in the display, and sure enough, it beeps when I get close to something. That said, there aren't the normal "dots" in the bumper that I normally associate with backup sensors.
Everything works just fine with it, I just am a guy who likes to know how things work and I don't see anything on the outside that would indicate it's a parking sensor.
View 7 Replies
I'm fixing my mother's Ford Explorer 2000 it turns over but won't start it sputters and everyone smile you hear what sounds like a small backfire.
it seems to be getting good spark I can get it to start for a little while and run on either. So I'm assuming the plugs and wires are working well they look good. When I tested the spark it looks very good.
ECM fuses look good able to use a scanner Jump fuel relay and can hear pump run I made sure there is gas in the gas tank
View 13 Replies
1995 Ford Explorer, 4 ltr. engine, pushrod. Will not start. Replaced fuel pump, fuel filter, every relay, pressure regulator, and the crank position sensor. I realize there's a whole bunch more parts under the hood, but I am ready to give up. Before the fuel pump would not run. Reason for replacing the parts. Now it won't stop running and you can feel the fuel by-passing at the pressure regulator. When checking the pressure at the rail I get zero !! I used a tire pressure tester for this. And, like I said no pressure. This vehicle has around 170,000 miles on it.
View 4 Replies
I have a starting issue with our older Explorer.
Vehicle: 1998 4.0 SOHC
Owned for 6+ years, no major issues to date.
225K miles, well maintained.
Problem: Vehicle will start fine on first start of day, or any other time after being parked for enough time to cool off like it is in the AM. Example, drove for about an hour and stopped for a hamburger. In restaurant for about 15-20 minutes go outside to vehicle, no start. let sit for about another 20 or so minutes and starts fine. Runs good, NO code given, ever. Has happened multiple times. Fuel is present in fuel rail as I poked Schrader valve in fuel rail and gas is present and with very good pressure. My guess seeing NO check engine light ever is something ECM or ignition coil related?
Haven't tried to troubleshoot yet. Any initial common problem concerning no start with warm engine?
View 5 Replies
It is a 2006 Explorer with the 4.0 and around 89,000 on the odometer. Around a couple weeks or so ago the wife said the explorer was hard to start one evening and it has been like that ever since. It cranks for about 5 seconds and then fires. So far it has started every time since this issue began. This is really the first issue we have ever had other than the radiator replacement a few years ago.
View 3 Replies
I just purchased a 2004 Explorer from a police auction. It had driver side damage but nothing major. When I try to start it it cranks but nothing else. I purchased a new battery, fuel filter, coil packs, spark plugs and installed all. But same thing it tries to fire up but stops short. A few times we sprayed starter fluid in it and it would start for about a second and a half and shut off..... I also listened for the fuel pump and I hear it coming on when I turn the key and checked the inertia switch...
View 9 Replies
A recently acquired '99 Explorer 4.0 SOHC with 140K on it, sounds like it takes too long for the oil to pressurize upon start up even if the vehicle is hot. Nothing knocks or anything, there is just a subtle but unpleasant sound for the first second or so of operation (unlike any other car I have driven.)
Is this normal? 5W-30 and a Motorcraft filter is being used. It recently had the timing chains replaced, but this sounds has been constant before and after timing chains were replaced.
View 8 Replies
Parked in driveway and 2 hours later it cranks but will not start. Pushed on fuel rail Schrader valve and it squirts out. Turn key and the fuel pump runs for 2-3 seconds then off...... Thought I had fuel... assume electrical. Read posts last night and thought crank positioner pickup was a good place to look. Took spark plug leads off #1 and #4 at coil and set a 1/4 steel dowel in each so they were 1/2 inch apart. Crank motor and I get spark out of coils so I assume the plugs are getting fire... Took off intake hose and shot ether in the tube while cranking... no fire or pop at all.
Where to now ? Seems like I have fire to the plugs, and fuel available but will not start. I have only one code and that's PO1116 coolant temp out of range..I don't have a cam sensor code or a crank sensor code...I thought they might effect the timing ? With spark at the plug wires, you would think I would get a "POP" now and then, especially with the ether ?
View 8 Replies
My explorer starts fine some days and others it just wont. No codes, have replaced fuel pump. Rail and starter.
View 11 Replies
