Ford - Explorer :: Moisture Build Up On The Metal Around The Edges Of Rear Wheel Humps / Bed Liner
Feb 21, 2014
so i bit the bullet and got a 2001 Ford explorer sport. Not as old as i wanted and has 'way more power options than i wanted but I like her.
Weird thing: around the edges of the rear wheel humps/ bed liner, there's a fair amount of moisture build up on the metal on both sides, under the carpet (pulled the corners back), enough to make the padding damp. Used car guy said was "condensation" from the freaky weather we had had over the last several weeks (granted, it was unseasonably warm/cold changes and raging wind & rain). Had a mechanic look the car over before purchase, he said everything was great shape. But he'd never heard of this type of condensation although he said it wasn't outside the realm of possibility. The back rear windows are sealed and there's no evidence of a leak but he said might need to take it to a body shop and have them silicone around the windows and/or check the door seals.
The water doesn't seem to increase with rain, no damp tracks, and doesn't gather anywhere else that I've found but doesn't seem to dry either...no condensation on the inside of the windows when the truck is closed up.
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I have my 13 GS with the left headlight moisture build up, I should had taken a picture of it before I took it to the dealer, so I dropped it off at Glendale Lexus and they saw it, so now they are telling me because I changed the bumper so the headlight leaked water in it, so to prove them wrong I had pictures taken when the bumper was changed and it was 2 years ago, so I took the pictures to the dealer and showed them when the bumper was changed and also up to date pictures with still no leaks in the headlight, and when you change the bumper cover you do not have to remove the headlights and now they say the car was in a accident, so I told them if it was why is everything original fenders and with Vin numbers on it and why should I bring it to you.
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1.4 yrs in, 35,000 km driven... now noticing moisture build up in my drivers side fog light lens. Called the dealership and made an appointment to have it, along with an annoying rattle sounds looked after - and when I asked the question 'would this be covered under warranty", she said - it depends.
Well... why? It either is or isn't... and what came from it?
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Noticed a squeak noise from the rear suspension when going over big bumps or humps, even going in or out tall driveways?
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I'm buying a 2003 Ford Explorer, XLS Sport Utility 4D. She's got 150k miles on an automatic transmission (pretty sure this model only came in auto anyhow).I'm mostly concerned about the rear axle, as the title prompted. The rear wheel seems awfully close to the front of the wheel well. Is this normal? I google searched some images of this model and seems to be the norm in some cases, and in other cases not.
Attached is a photo of the concerning placement. Is the rear axle bent? Is this suggesting that the rear end is on it's way to crapping itself?
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I have a loose, binding, metal on metal sound on my steering wheel shaft. I have removed the steering wheel, replaced the clockspring, because when I removed wheel clockspring was in pieces and I thought that might be the issue. Guess not, because I'm still having problem. Other than having to remove or replace the whole steering column...
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My father's 1997 F150 with the 4.6 two wheel drive, has me stumped again. I have a lot of mechanic knowledge but this one has got me wondering whats going on. Here is the run down. When you are driving down the road, it rides just fine and makes no noises from 0-20 MPH, after about 25 to 35 mph it makes like a metal on metal noise that is coming from the rear, and forces the truck to slow down, when you try to accelerate through this problem it has a bad bang and it wont allow you to speed up anymore, it does not seem like a brake issue (but I could be wrong) since it does not actually pull to one side or the other.
It seems like an equal force trying to stop the truck. I have heard rear ends that were going out and they make clunk noises or whirring noises etc, but its still some what driveable. I have checked the rear end oil and it does have oil in it, and its probably about an inch from the full level (but that shouldnt cause this issue im sure). My father wants a definite answer before we start tearing this thing apart to try and fix it. Since its mostly used to take trash off, and also get the kids down the dirt road to the bus stop.
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I have a 2007 hyundai sonata, this car is my daily driver. I put 180 miles on it a day around trip. Currently has 180,200 miles on it. Last Friday on my trip home when i turned right I heard a metal on metal sound. I slowed down went straight and it went away. Talked to a few people and I think it may be the wheel bearing. Even if I hit a road reflector it starts up. It's the front left wheel. Get on the breaks it goes away.
So my question is... Wheel bearing??? And can I replace the whole hub and fix the problem or do I have to try and press the bearing out?
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I have a base v6. When I turn the steering wheel (for example, to make a left turn), it sounds like there is metal-on-metal rubbing. The wheel is not extended (turned all the way til it stops)...
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I have a question about my C Four with 16" wheels. When the steering wheel goes all the way to a stop there is a thunk that feels like metal on metal. It is like there is no rubber bump stops. If this is normal. I am used to cars that have a nice cushioned bump at the steering limits.
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Background: 2003 jetta; just changed rotors and pads on rear wheels a month ago, they are disc brakes
So the other day I was driving in a school zone at about 20 mph when I heard a VERY loud sound, like I'm dragging metal. i might also describe it as two rusty metal plates being rubbed against each other, but really really loud.
The noise is related to speed, it sounds cyclical and speeds up as the wheel turns faster. It occurs when I am NOT braking.
I parked the car and came back to it a few days later move it and the sound disappeared for the first 100 feet and then came back.
We did 2 things - we changed the caliper, and we also noticed that a caliper bolt was missing. I am pretty sure the noise was coming from that missing bolt - i think the caliper became dislodged and was making contact with the rotor. The caliper also seemed to be dragging a little bit so we went ahead and changed it too.
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Honda Accord 2005 ... Just bought a new used car. All seems ok, but I have two problems.
(1) when not moving, i have slop in the steering and I can hear metal on metal contact when I turn the steering wheel. I pulled the tire and with basically no force I can move the rotor back and forth by hand. what it is and how to fix it?
(2) when braking, it appears that the front left pad sticks. Pads are not excessively worn down. Can't figure out how to get to the caliper pins ( thought they might be sticking).
Could the two be related?
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About a week ago I had my car on a hoist getting new exhaust tips installed. At that time I noticed the rear tires are wearing prematurely on the inner edges. So are the fronts but not nearly as bad as the rears. I asked around and was told that this is normal for the factory Pirellis because of the negative camber built in to our cars. This being the reason the car corners so well. I understand the physics of this and I really like the way the car corners. My question is this---Can the negative camber be taken out of the car thusly reducing wear on the inner edges of the tires?? And how much will this be noticed while driving the car normally, and during spirited driving?? I have noticed that some fellows will purposely mod their cars with increased negative camber on the rear wheels, I'm assuming this is to achieve a certain "look".
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At 75K my passenger side rear brakes were making metal on metal sound. I was really surprised as I have always learned that the front brakes take 80% of load and they always go out before the backs. So I took the wheel off and sure enough the pads were metal on metal. Changed everything out. (new rotors). I then went over to the driver side rear brake. Looks brand new. The pistons were barely out. I figured this caliper is bad. (I haven't change yet)
When I drive I can hear a very faint metal on metal sound when I brake. VERY FAINT. So with 75K miles on I figure the front brakes are due. Today I took the wheels off and inspected them. Tons of pad left on both of them. If I didn't know better I would say a brake job had been done very recently. (I've owned the car new so I know they have not had a brake job) However after reading many articles on this site I found a thread where one user said he was changing his front brakes for the first time with 110K on them and the pads still had 10K left in them. So the fact that my front pads are still pristine at 75K may not be a big deal (or not as big as I thought. Also I am not hard on brakes.)
However I'm not sure what is going on. Why would the passenger rear brake be metal on metal at 75K and the three other pads are like new. Is the passenger rear the only one working (or working much harder than the others) meaning the other three are bad? Or is the rear passenger bad and the other three are good? I have a working knowledge of cars but I am by no means a mechanic.
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When driving in my parking garage, I can hear a slight metal on metal noise. An extreme example would be sharpening a knife on a sharpener, its not as loud or predominate.
-I've checked the lugs, they are secure.
Car has springs and spacers.
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So my Explorer has been parked for over a year following a minor front-end collision. I went to move it yesterday only to find that the rear passenger wheel was locked up. It wouldn't move fw or backwards and it felt like the brakes were locked up. I took the wheel off and it appeared that the caliper wasn't releasing properly, so I pryed the pads away from the rotor and tried again but still couldn't move the vehicle. So I jacked both rear wheels off the ground and tried. The passenger wheel remained locked while the drivers side rear wheel would spin a bit one way and then back the other way. It is possible that the brake locked up again as I had to depress the brake in order to get it in gear, but am wondering if there is something else going on. Also... Seems the truck is stuck in 4x4 even though the selector switch in in 'auto' (my 4x4 switch choices are Auto, 4-Lo and 4-Hi). Is it correct that as soon as one of the wheels is off the ground that the vehicle goes into 4x4? If so then that makes sense.
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How do you remove the rear pass side wheel studs? I have knocked them loose but there isn't enough clearance to remove them. I have removed the parking brake shoes already. Does the hub have to be pulled to do this?
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What the front wheel well liner shields that are held in by plastic clips are called there are made out of rubber cardboard fiberish material they keep water and debrie from getting in through the wheel wells. Need to know the part number.
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My 2013 Accent seems to be shredding the front inside wheelwell liner. I have to get both of them replaced. I noticed this had already happened when I bought the car, but since I didn't hear any noise during the "spirited" test drive, I figured who cares?
I was wrong. They rub whenever I go over a slight bump. The tire size is OEM. I am assuming it's happening because they are already shredded and loose.
Is this a common problem with the Accent (of course, if it happens with aftermarket larger rims or tires I get it)...
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Ford Explorer has been making horrible noise (constant whine when accelerator is pressed)... The mechanic said he found metal in the power steering fluid and told me we need to replace the power steering pump and the rack & pinion system. Is he right about this? He said you can't replace one without the other... I've done a little research and I think we can get away with a new pump.
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Do we suffer from this clunking noise as well? I know I have rattles and things that make noise over bumps and humps in the road. But is this what I hear?
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