1998 F-250LD 4X4 ... The outer boot is cracked, so I got a new one. Took the axle off, but cannot understand how to remove the boot. Where do I take the joint apart?
View 2 RepliesI have a 2003 Ford F150, 4x4, and I recently installed torsion bar leveling keys, i did not notice before i put the keys on, but while parked level, wheels straight, my wheels stand awkward, the bottom sticks out while the top is kinda sucked in, when i took a closer look, my inner axle shaft boot on my passenger side is busted and slinging all the grease out, what is the solution?
View 8 RepliesI have a 98 F250LD, its a Lariat, so everything electric/auto. Shift on the Fly 4x4, 5.4, 188K, Factory rear air suspension. Typical Minnesota rust. Anyway, I just noticed in the last 75 miles or so, a drive-line vibration. There is nothing until 39 MPH. Then from 39-41 MPH there is a decent vibration. Stops until 50, then from 50 MPH up it is a steady vibration. I have already changed the u-joints in the rear shaft. I have pulled/wiggled on everything else I can think of with no luck of finding of anything loose.
One thing I did notice, is that the front axle is locked in all the time. How long it has been like this: years for all I know... I can flip the switch from 2wd to 4H and 4L. It all seems to work fine, I hear clicking, the 4x4 engages, the proper lights come on/off. The front axle will pull when supposed to. The transfer case seems to be working fine, but the front axle won't disengage. I am hoping this can be fixed cheaply/easily (DIYer), and also hoping this explains my low fuel mileage.
Front axle? Where to look or what to try and fix for the vibration?
Looking for a video, pictures, or steps that are in depth on how to replace my rear seals and bearings? They are leaking very badly and would like to see some other ways to get it done.
View 3 RepliesReplacing the knuckle/axle seal due to my hub not holding a vacuum. I finally got the seal off the axle after several minutes of beating, but it finally came off. During the beating the metal shield that was in back of the seal took a beating as well and can not be reused. Is it really needed?
In this thread the pictures show that the shield was not installed after the seal was replaced. The shield does serve a purpose to keep crap out of the seal though.
Ok, I have a 98 F150 XLT, standard cab, 8 ft. bed, 2WD with limited slip - if any of that makes a difference.
The rear axle vent tube is literally blowing oil out the top, where it's loosely connected to the bed. It does this every few weeks. I pulled the hose and ran a rifle cleaning rod down it to make sure it wasn't plugged ... it wasn't.
It seems like it's building up pressure somewhere, then blowing all at once, but why?
I have a constant whine going down the road with foot on the gas. Back off and it quiets up. At 2-3 MPH i think i can here a " tick- tick". Took the drive shaft off, wheels off ground, cover off and oil out. Spin wheel and i can hear a tick - tick, I think around the pinion bearing. No play up and down or in and out, but it appears to have 2-3 times the backlash i would expect. I used the screw driver- stethoscope--- still think its the bearing. This is a 9.75 axle. What kind of luck would I have pulling the yoke off and going in from the front without removing axles halves and ring gear? I thought I had read that here before. Never done one that way .
View 2 RepliesHow to replace the heater core?
View 13 RepliesI have a 98 f150 4.6 4x4 with 175.000 miles, I suspected the intake gasket is leaking, I'v never done this before. What is involved with this type of repair? Will the intake gasket leak bad enough to leak antifreeze on the floor? Is it okay to continue to drive with this problem? Bad weather is on the way.
View 7 RepliesI have a quick question, I just replaced the head gaskets on my 4.6 with 301,000 miles on it and now my battery only charges when you punch it and when you lift off the gas pedal, in town it does fine, but on drives 25 miles on the highway the battery guage goes to the line on the bottom. What could be causing that?
View 2 RepliesI have a 98 F-250 5.4L that has a constant ABS Light illuminated. My truck seems to brake fine ... I just bought this vehicle used and it has 93,800 miles on it.
View 10 RepliesI have a 98 F250 Supercab XLT. 4wd with 3:73 gear ratio. twist 4wd on the dash. Truck runs great but when i switch to 4wd it makes noise and occasionally will pop out of 4wd. The noise starts at almost no speed. I can hear it at less than 5 mph. and only gets worse as i increase speed. (sounds like a bad wheel bearing) - But only in 4wd/ nice and quiet in 2wd.
I used sensors and ear phones to pinpoint the noise. It appeared to be coming from the front differential. I opened the pumpkin found clean fluid and no metal bits or any visible unusual wear. I changed the front diff. with another used unit. The noise is still there strong and unchanged. The wheel bearings and axles seem to be all right.
I have a friend that wants me to replace his heater core on his 1998 f250 with a triton 5.4. I told him I would and I've done the one in my 1995 f150 5.8. is it the same process or where to find the step by step instructions.
View 1 Replies1998 F250 ld 5.4 4X4 4wabs. The front rotor was seized on THOROUGHLY bearing split apart (outer bearing and bearing "core" still attached to rotor, outer race inner bearing and sleeve still in steering knuckle), the bearing was fine fine until i tried to remove the rotor, any chance it can be pressed back together and saved?
View 3 RepliesI have a new to me 98 F250LD with the 4.6/4R70W. I have maintained this truck fro my FIL as best as I could get him to spend (neglected). Filter and fluid replace with Mercon VI last year due to 2-3 shift slip.
He gave me the truck after it would not climb a hill, just hit stall speed and would not move up a steep hill, as I understand it. I put Seafoam trans tune in hoping it would free up sticky solenoids or valves in the VB.
I finally got it registered in my name and drove it to work and back today. After about 25 miles highway driving it shudders pretty bad trying to climb a hill at low speed.
It seems to me that at this low speed, torque converter lockup should not even be a possibility. I do not have COP, but rather a single coil pack. I replaced the wires and plugs for Dad a few years ago, but some shady shop later told him that I didn't replace the left rear (to make an upsale I suppose). Not sure what they may have done in there.
I have scanned with my ELM 327 and Droid using Torque Pro, and the only Fault is EGR flow.
I have a little more detail on when the truck starts and does not . I have gone out the past two days and put the key in the ignition and turn it to the on position and all the lights come on except Service Engine Soon light and truck will not start. I bought a ceramic electric heater and placed it on the floor directing the heat under the dash. after ten to fifteen minutes I go out and put the key in the ignition turn the key to the on position and the service engine soon light is on and the truck starts right up. I let it warm up for about a half hour and then shut it off. I then try to start it right back up and the service engine soon light comes on momentarily then goes off and the truck does not start?
View 5 RepliesI own a 1999 F250 super duty and have the front end apart to service the u joints , I noticed that i have bad axle stub needle bearings on one side. I was wondering what is involved in taking those out and replacing them, it looks like they are held in place with some type of spanner nut. My next question :Would it be worth the cost just to replace the whole bearing hub assembly? The truck has 134000 miles on it.
View 10 RepliesIt's time to replace my axle bearing and hub assembly. Looking at RiffRaff site they show 3 different models. Early 99, fine course and course. I think I have the course thread but just want to make sure before I order. My truck is a L99 and I don't have the abs sensor. Looks like all 3 have come with the abs sensor. Do I simply not connect the sensor? Here's a pic of what i have. Course thread?
View 3 RepliesI guess this would be covered by either power train warranty or certified warranty? I also have axle inner boot leakage. I am going in tomorrow for DSG and fuel filter, going to have them look at these issues...should be fun ... oh yeah and head gasket might show signs of leakage......
Detailed pics in link..... [URL] .....
I had an accident with my 2007 Hyundai Azera 3.8 Limited at the driver's side a couple of weeks ago. The frame bent a little bit from the left side. Took it to body shop/mechanic and was straightened back. The mechanic advice me to change the CV axle on the left side due to the CV boot coming off the axle. We bought a used CV axle from the junkyard and everything was fine until 2 days later when I made a wide left trun and I heard a cracking noise.
Immediately, I pulled over and AGAIN the CV Boot from the CV axle has popped out of the axle again and up until now when i drive I hear a cracking noise when turning to the left. Even without checking the car again, the mechanic is still suggesting its the axle I bought that I should buy another one... We also changed the hub in the process....before this problem occurred...
Here is the picture of how it looks now...
Our 2009 Corolla S 5-spd is making a ticking sound like a CV joint is out, but the boots are fine, and the sound is only consistent when there's three fat people in it. With just me driving, I can hear it, but it's just an occasional pop when turning, nothing like the very consistent and recognizable click-click-click noise of a dying CV axle, which is exactly what it does when there's weight.
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