Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: 1998 - Grinding Noise After Starts For About 3 - 5 Seconds
Apr 29, 2014
I recently sold me 91 F-250 and got into a 98 F-150. It's a SuperCab 6.5' bed, 4x4 off-road, 3.55 gears, 5.4 v8 auto. I love the truck, but I am having an issue with a noise at startup.
Every time I start the truck it fires right up but it makes a grinding noise AFTER it starts for about 3-5 seconds. I thought the starter wasn't disengaging in time so I replaced it. The starter I took off was fairly new. It's teeth had just a little wear and the flywheel had no visible wear. I put in the new starter and there was no change at all.
I also changed the oil and filter using Motorcraft 5w-30 oil and a Motorcraft filter. I also started it without the serpentine belt to rule out a pulley bearing. What the noise could be? The truck runs absolutely excellent, by the way.
View 5 Replies
Advertisement
A few weeks ago I bot this truck to have some fun with. 98 F150 4.2l with a lift and some beefy tires. Well something to get me into trouble. On the test drive i never herd anything, mostly because I wasn't ripping it around. I know very little about transmissions, mostly because I never had a problem before.
I have a grinding noise when down shifting into 3rd for either 4 or 5th. It doesn't happen when I am going from 2-3. It also wont happen if i keep the clutch disengaged for a few seconds. It almost like the transmission need time to slow down for a second before shifting.
It also does this going into reverse.
View 1 Replies
I got a 98 f150 with a 2 year old starter in it. When I go to start the truck I turn the key and it makes a horrible metal crunching sound. If I quick stop, then turn it again, it'll start.
I saw another thread here with 'occasional grinding noise' but this just started, and happens every time I turn the key. Is it time for a new starter or should I look towards the fly wheel or something else???
View 2 Replies
I'm trying to find out why my truck has a grinding noise on the passenger side when my truck first starts driving for the first 1/4 mile. It stops after that or when I apply the brakes. Do I have a brake sticking or something more serious?
View 1 Replies
My 2001 5.4 makes a grinding noise when starting. Not all the time but some of the time. it will always start but it is annoying. Need to know if this would be starter or solenoid?
View 4 Replies
2000 Ford F250 crew cab 4 x 4 with 7.3. 6 speed transmission. I just had a new clutch installed and now I am have a grinding noise when putting it into 1st gear and when I change from granny to first it will grind also. I did not have this issue before having the clutch replaced. I have also just had a new hydraulic clutch kit installed.......
View 1 Replies
I have a 2002 f150 5.4 with 3.55 limited slip... For months now every time I hit a bump with the front right side there is a loud bang (sounds like a wore out bushing), and if I am driving slow at an idle you can here a thump every time the wheel goes around. And when I turn all the way it sounds more like a grinding sound.... The noise is getting very bad, what it is. I am very mechanically inclined but cannot figure it out.
Everything in the front end seem tight. When I lay under it if I get someone to spin te wheel the thump sound sounds like its in the front dif, kinda echoes through the front drive shaft but u joints seem good. I really think it's in the dif, and I'm hoping the banging noise I hear when I hit bumps is the same problem as the noise when the wheels go around....
View 3 Replies
I have a 2003 f150 4X4. Whenever I go around a round about slowly, the truck sort of grind under the frame and shakes a little bit like I am in 4 wheel drive.
View 2 Replies
1997 4.6L.. Have an intermittent grinding / dragging noise coming from the pulley (?timing) area that I'm trying to pin down. Both the alternator and tensioner were replaced prior to the noise starting. The ac compressor and the power steering pump are original. The fan clutch was replaced about 4 years ago and the water pump 8 years ago. Timing chain / guides / tensioner are all original.
I don't notice any of the common ps pump indicators (whine increase when steering) but noticed the fluid level was down slightly and that the pulley seems to have some inward - outward play with the belt off. I also don't have any other engine symptoms like rough idle or any codes being triggered. How to isolate the culprit?
View 2 Replies
I may, or may not have had to jump a curb at 40 mph to avoid rear ending another car. Truck is a 2003 F-150, single cab stx package, 4.2ltr. Long story short, no damage to my passenger side front tire or rim that I can see, but I do have a horrible grinding noise when I turn the wheel either direction. The truck still turns properly, power steering fluid is level. What should I start replacing first?! She's got about 90k miles on it, I'm sure a lot of the suspension parts are due, just need to know where to start!
View 3 Replies
I have a 2000 F150, 94k miles, manual transmission, 2WD
About 6 months ago a slight squeaking sound started when only backing up. Now its progressed to a sort of grinding metal on metal sound with regular driving as well as in reverse. I can hear it the most when its in gear and I take my foot off the gas. I changed the breaks, checked the wheel bearings, did a clutch test, and the u joints look fine. Something weird happened yesterday, while raining out, it didn't make a peep. My drive shaft and u joints have a layer of rust on them...could that be a cause of the noise, and it went away when wet?
View 5 Replies
I've got a 2003 f150 with the 5.4 and 128,000 miles with an engine tick. Its not an exhaust leak I know that for sure. It has came up in the last 20,000 miles. I've used motorcraft 5 20 w/ motorcraft filter. I've tried a kreen engine treatment with no change. Heres the description/syptoms:
-Slight clatter for 2-3 seconds upon cold startup (happens very rarely)
-top end ticking that is loudest and most noticable when warm (quieter when motors cold)
-not timing chains/tensioners etc because the noise is coming from the top end and most noticeable on the passenger side.
-at idle the tick is present-when you rev at idle, the noise goes away.
-Driving (or having the engine under any load for that matter) the noise gets louder.
-Anytime I accelerate, tow/haul, go up an incline the noise gets worse
-Sounds like a "whirring" sound from within the dash.
With all that said I am thinking the lash adjusters are getting noisy. I had a certified gm tech that has 40 yrs mechanic experience under his belt and builds prostreet muscle cars on the side look at it. He listened to it to it and that was his diagnosis as well as its not that bad so just live with it. The noise at idle doesn't bother me, its when im driving with the windows down. The noise drives me crazy and is a little annoying to me.
Heres a link to a video of the sound and keep in mind it is much louder now : Triton engine noise/tick - YouTube
View 6 Replies
2001 f150 extended cab flareside 4x4 4.6L v8, M5od manual, 196,539 miles this morning. the clutch slave is going out so I have some grinding and extra noise but recently the motor began to run like crap. I took it and coded it. "p0403, cylinder 4 misfire" is what it read on the obd scanner screen... I had a similar issue with the COPs not working and actually allowing water into the spark plug cylinder. I replaced them all at 100,000 miles or so with new motorcraft plugs at that time.
Fixed the problem and nothing since that time. Not sure why I did them all but I did. i was dumber 96000 miles ago. I also took down the intake and cleaned all the ports and crap out of it also. Yesterday took out #4 (on passenger firewall) and it looks fine. No evidence of leak, spark plug a light tan, firing well without problems, and even gaped properly still. My question is first I understood the p0403 to be EGR related, not cylinder #4 misfiring...seems odd.
2nd: I'd like to avoid just throwing parts at this problem. The EGR is simple enough to replace and if that's what is needed so be it. I'd rather do it right the first time. I've checked all of the vacuum lines, fittings, attachments. No leaks detected with smoke/brake fluid tests either. Good suction at the PCV, all good.
View 7 Replies
I have a 97 250 LD 5.4 that suddenly has a grinding noise coming from the area where the transmission and motor meet. I took the inspection plate off the transmission and can look up inside there and see everything moving. I use a screw driver and if I flex the plate that mounts between the transmission and the motor I am able to get the noise to quiet down until I release the screwdriver and then the plate flexes back and scrapes making the noise again.
I can not see where the plate is grinding when I look up inside there. I can't figure out how to fix this.... Why it would just start doing this on its own as none of the bolts on the housing have been removed except for the two bolts that hold the starter on. (Changed it a couple of weeks ago). Thought about loosening the bolts on the tranny housing but I'm afraid that it would open me up to further problems???
View 4 Replies
I have another issue. I just started having problems when braking. Every time I brake there is thing loud grinding noise that sounds like it coming from the back tires but there isn't a squeaking noise like there is where you need new brakes what else could this be??
View 2 Replies
I have a 1997 F150 (truck in signature). In December my passenger side parking brake cable broke so I replaced both rear cables (front cable appears in good condition).
This past Friday the passenger side brake started making a grinding noise so I pulled the drum to find the self adjuster cable broken and the ratchet jammed between the shoe and the drum. I pulled everything apart and put new shoes (the pin the ratchet pivots on was broken off the rear shoe)and all new adjusting hardware (adjuster screw, ratchet, cable, and cable guide). The rest of the hardware looks in good condition (still paint on the springs and retainers). I got everything put together and took it for a test drive, it had a nice firm brake pedal (it's been a while since this truck has had a firm pedal) and great stopping power.
Took it to work today, and on the way back I stopped to pickup a package from the UPS store. I set the parking brake and put the truck in 1st like I always do. When I got back out to the truck to drive home, I released the parking brake but there was still obvious drag as I drove home (no good place to stop during rush hour), got out of the truck and it reeks of burning brakes. I pulled the driver side drum off (after it cooled), which was rather difficult, and everything looks to be in order except the rear shoe was not touching the post at the top of the backing plate. I checked and the adjuster was still all the way in, so that isn't the issue.
I pulled the parking brake cable out to slack the drum side of it (with the pedal released there is some spring tension from the pedal mechanism) and clamped it with vice grips so the cable was slacked and the shoes were then touching the post, and the drum could be installed and turned relatively easily, I then removed the vice grips and let the spring pull the tension out of the cable and the brake held firmly (requiring considerable effort to turn the drum). Is there anyway to adjust the spring tension on the parking brake cable when the parking brake is released?
Additional notes: when setting the parking brake, the pedal will only go down an inch or 2 before the brakes are locked up tight and the pedal won't move, it used to go down several inches before. also I noticed that the feral on the end of the drivers side cable (that locks into the lever attached to the rear shoe) is deformed, like the cable has too much tension on it. The cables are the correct ones for my wheel base according to Autozone but I'm starting to wonder if they are too short. Spring tension on the parking brake cable (when the brake is not set) causes the parking brake to drag. How do I get the parking brake to stop dragging? ("star" adjusters are new and adjusted all the way in).
View 7 Replies
When I turn left a "clicking" noise appears, it's rhythmic and I figured it was the CV joint at the drivers side going bad. Bought a new one and installed it. Clicking seemed to get away for maybe 5-7 days. Then it occurred again. Because the package in which the cv joint arrived was very roughed up I thought maybe it took damage during delivery and bought a new one. Installed and guess what? Took a drive after that, NOTHING and now it's clicking again. It's so loud you can hear it when you drive behind my truck and I'm turning. Doesn't seem to make a difference if I brake or not.
View 14 Replies
I have a 1998 F150 with a 4.6 engine and is a 4x4 now the other day when I was backing out of the garage I heard a clunk noise and it seems like it is coming from the right front, so I tried it going forward it made the same noise but not as bad. There is no road noise and all the u joints are good and tight, the noise was when I gave it a little gas. My question is the front cv u joint would this make the noise? And what about the hub? What is the proper why to check the CV joint and the hub? The noise was when I was in 2 wheel drive.
View 14 Replies
I have a 98 F150 Supercab 4x4 with 4.6 and an auto trans. I have 107,000 miles on the truck. Recently developed a engine "tick". Upon start up the "tick" is very noticeable. Seems to go away after its been driven a few miles and everything comes up to operating temp. I have checked the exhaust manifolds, all studs and nuts are still there. There are no noticeable holes that I could feel in the manifolds. Read some other posts here that have the "tick under load". Mine goes away once everything warms up. What to look at or for?
View 8 Replies
I have a 98 f150 4.6 v8. when i start driving and i hit about 40 my truck doesn't want to shift, i have to take my foot off the gas, let it shift then apply the gas again. if i don't it shifts real hard or the RPM's go real high. and then every so often my overdrive off light blinks. it shifts in and out of overdrive ok though.
View 2 Replies
Vehicle is 1998 F150 with 194k. The battery is 1 1/2 yrs old and belts and alternator are original.
Yesterday morning my VHF and dog tracking eqipment started humming with the truck running. The hum on the tracking eqpt. only happened when I pointed the antennae over the direction of the hood with truck running. When I shut truck off everything is normal. Later in the day the battery light came on. The battery light would go off if I kept it over 2400 rpm's. The charge on the dash was normal but as I got closr to home last night it dropped to almost nothing and the lights were very dim.
I am thinking alternator. What I am confused about is the humming noise in the background. The tracking eqpt. is completely separate from the truck while the VHF is direct to the battery with an iline fuse. Bad voltage regulator?
View 4 Replies
