My 2001 5.4 makes a grinding noise when starting. Not all the time but some of the time. it will always start but it is annoying. Need to know if this would be starter or solenoid?
View 4 Replies 2001 f150 extended cab flareside 4x4 4.6L v8, M5od manual, 196,539 miles this morning. the clutch slave is going out so I have some grinding and extra noise but recently the motor began to run like crap. I took it and coded it. "p0403, cylinder 4 misfire" is what it read on the obd scanner screen... I had a similar issue with the COPs not working and actually allowing water into the spark plug cylinder. I replaced them all at 100,000 miles or so with new motorcraft plugs at that time.
Fixed the problem and nothing since that time. Not sure why I did them all but I did. i was dumber 96000 miles ago. I also took down the intake and cleaned all the ports and crap out of it also. Yesterday took out #4 (on passenger firewall) and it looks fine. No evidence of leak, spark plug a light tan, firing well without problems, and even gaped properly still. My question is first I understood the p0403 to be EGR related, not cylinder #4 misfiring...seems odd.
2nd: I'd like to avoid just throwing parts at this problem. The EGR is simple enough to replace and if that's what is needed so be it. I'd rather do it right the first time. I've checked all of the vacuum lines, fittings, attachments. No leaks detected with smoke/brake fluid tests either. Good suction at the PCV, all good.
I got an 2001 f150 4.2l v6, 5speed. It started running real rough almost like it was hitting on only 3 cylinders I replaced the crank sensor and did a tune up on it along with a new coil pack and now it won't hit a lick the plugs are getting fire, it's getting fuel but, will not start it's not throwing any engine codes. Which leads me to believe it may have a bad ecm.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2001 F150 XL, 2WD, 4.2L, Auto at work. It will intermittently crank but not start, also, my scan tool will sometimes not connect to the truck. The only code I ever get is 1 about not being able to connect to self diagnostics. I have narrowed it down to the PCM relay in the underhood power distribution module not turning on because it SOMETIMES only sees a 2 volt turn on signal instead of 12 volts. I have replaced the ignition switch on the steering column- initially I thought that took care of it.
But as I was about to put the meter away it did it again. If I remove and reinstall the diode that is in the PDM, sometimes more than once, I can get it to turn on. Are these diodes available from any one besides Ford? The wiring diagram in my Haynes manual is very generic and does not show the circuit from the ignition switch to the fuse box. Where can I find a GOOD and complete wiring diagram for free on the net so I can print it out and take it with me to work?
2001 F150 4.6 V8 Triton
Automatic
Battery Tests Good
Starter Tests Good - I saw it spin and come out at the testing station at Autozone
Ignition Relay (the one in the fusebox)- New (8mo.)
Switch on the firewall on passenger side of truck - New (8mo.)
Battery terminals/connectors - Tight, no movement, Cleaned within the last week.
Starter connections - cleaned within the last week.
I am having trouble with my truck not starting. The issue has been occurring on and off for over a year. Usually, it happens about once a month, regardless of weather.
I turn the key, and there is one click. Usually at this point, I can use one hand to gently pull the shifter "up" towards park and turn the key again and it will start. Recently it is not starting when I do this. I have tried many times, and have tried to start it in Neutral (is that even possible with an Automatic?).
With the key in the "ON" position, I go under the truck and jump the starter cellinoid. I am jumping the small post to the big post where th wire comes from the battery. I do not touch the post that the wire goes into the starter.
I am very confused because it starts just fine without fail and almost instantly when I jump the posts. It is drive-able this way, but I would like to resolve this issue, and resume using my key to start it since the issue doesn't seem to be resolving itself as it usually does.
A friend told me about the Ignition Starter Switch inside the Column. If I have time I will attempt to start the truck with a screw driver on the switch tonight to narrow down the issue.
I drive a 2001 ford f150 lariat 5.4L. My truck will crank but not start, i am getting complete spark, and have ran a full fuel pressure procedure, and am getting complete fuel pressure, there is no water in my gas, everything checks out how it should. I ran a test on my cluster and it showed a code that said i am not getting connection to computer to start. I removed the cluster and repaired all loose wires properly, and it still wont start! I have had many people look at it and they said it could still be a bad cluster.
View 13 RepliesThe past week or 2 I have had an intermittent starting problem. Engine is turning over but wont start, but after i wait a second it will start up. I listened to see if the fuel pump was running and heard the whine. I checked the battery and the starter voltage and it was all good. i primed the fuel pump a couple of times and it started up on the first crank of the ignition. The truck runs great when driving and idling, no misses or loss of power that i have felt or heard yet. I am thinking it is either the fuel pump is starting to go or maybe the fuel filter is getting a little clogged up. Like i said up above this is an intermittent problem and that is why I am confused. Its a 2001 F150 4.6 4X4 ....
View 1 RepliesI'm trying to find out why my truck has a grinding noise on the passenger side when my truck first starts driving for the first 1/4 mile. It stops after that or when I apply the brakes. Do I have a brake sticking or something more serious?
View 1 Replies2000 Ford F250 crew cab 4 x 4 with 7.3. 6 speed transmission. I just had a new clutch installed and now I am have a grinding noise when putting it into 1st gear and when I change from granny to first it will grind also. I did not have this issue before having the clutch replaced. I have also just had a new hydraulic clutch kit installed.......
View 1 RepliesI have a 2002 f150 5.4 with 3.55 limited slip... For months now every time I hit a bump with the front right side there is a loud bang (sounds like a wore out bushing), and if I am driving slow at an idle you can here a thump every time the wheel goes around. And when I turn all the way it sounds more like a grinding sound.... The noise is getting very bad, what it is. I am very mechanically inclined but cannot figure it out.
Everything in the front end seem tight. When I lay under it if I get someone to spin te wheel the thump sound sounds like its in the front dif, kinda echoes through the front drive shaft but u joints seem good. I really think it's in the dif, and I'm hoping the banging noise I hear when I hit bumps is the same problem as the noise when the wheels go around....
I recently sold me 91 F-250 and got into a 98 F-150. It's a SuperCab 6.5' bed, 4x4 off-road, 3.55 gears, 5.4 v8 auto. I love the truck, but I am having an issue with a noise at startup.
Every time I start the truck it fires right up but it makes a grinding noise AFTER it starts for about 3-5 seconds. I thought the starter wasn't disengaging in time so I replaced it. The starter I took off was fairly new. It's teeth had just a little wear and the flywheel had no visible wear. I put in the new starter and there was no change at all.
I also changed the oil and filter using Motorcraft 5w-30 oil and a Motorcraft filter. I also started it without the serpentine belt to rule out a pulley bearing. What the noise could be? The truck runs absolutely excellent, by the way.
I have a 2003 f150 4X4. Whenever I go around a round about slowly, the truck sort of grind under the frame and shakes a little bit like I am in 4 wheel drive.
View 2 Replies1997 4.6L.. Have an intermittent grinding / dragging noise coming from the pulley (?timing) area that I'm trying to pin down. Both the alternator and tensioner were replaced prior to the noise starting. The ac compressor and the power steering pump are original. The fan clutch was replaced about 4 years ago and the water pump 8 years ago. Timing chain / guides / tensioner are all original.
I don't notice any of the common ps pump indicators (whine increase when steering) but noticed the fluid level was down slightly and that the pulley seems to have some inward - outward play with the belt off. I also don't have any other engine symptoms like rough idle or any codes being triggered. How to isolate the culprit?
I may, or may not have had to jump a curb at 40 mph to avoid rear ending another car. Truck is a 2003 F-150, single cab stx package, 4.2ltr. Long story short, no damage to my passenger side front tire or rim that I can see, but I do have a horrible grinding noise when I turn the wheel either direction. The truck still turns properly, power steering fluid is level. What should I start replacing first?! She's got about 90k miles on it, I'm sure a lot of the suspension parts are due, just need to know where to start!
View 3 RepliesI have a 2000 F150, 94k miles, manual transmission, 2WD
About 6 months ago a slight squeaking sound started when only backing up. Now its progressed to a sort of grinding metal on metal sound with regular driving as well as in reverse. I can hear it the most when its in gear and I take my foot off the gas. I changed the breaks, checked the wheel bearings, did a clutch test, and the u joints look fine. Something weird happened yesterday, while raining out, it didn't make a peep. My drive shaft and u joints have a layer of rust on them...could that be a cause of the noise, and it went away when wet?
My 2001 4.6L F-150 has been sitting on the driveway, used once every 2 weeks or so for the last 3 yrs. I came to start it a few days ago and it kept turning over but not starting. The key security chip is working, battery is charged, all plugs are firing, fuel pump fuse and relay check good. When I turn the key to ON, sometimes I hear the fuel pump priming, other times it doesn't. The times it does prime, the truck fires right up.
The times it doesn't prime, engine won't start. When the pump does prime, and while the engine is running, the pump makes a noticeable buzzing sound, much louder than normal. When the pump primes. fuel pressure measures at 42psi in the ON position, 36psi with engine running, and 46psi with engine running and vacuum hose removed. I believe all these are within specs.
My question is this: Is it safe to assume that the pump is going bad and will eventually fail completely? My second question is (and I know this can be debated til the end of time) should I get the Motorcraft or aftermarket? I have Airtex, Spectra, Carter, and Delphi available locally.
I have a 97 250 LD 5.4 that suddenly has a grinding noise coming from the area where the transmission and motor meet. I took the inspection plate off the transmission and can look up inside there and see everything moving. I use a screw driver and if I flex the plate that mounts between the transmission and the motor I am able to get the noise to quiet down until I release the screwdriver and then the plate flexes back and scrapes making the noise again.
I can not see where the plate is grinding when I look up inside there. I can't figure out how to fix this.... Why it would just start doing this on its own as none of the bolts on the housing have been removed except for the two bolts that hold the starter on. (Changed it a couple of weeks ago). Thought about loosening the bolts on the tranny housing but I'm afraid that it would open me up to further problems???
I have another issue. I just started having problems when braking. Every time I brake there is thing loud grinding noise that sounds like it coming from the back tires but there isn't a squeaking noise like there is where you need new brakes what else could this be??
View 2 RepliesI have a 1997 F150 (truck in signature). In December my passenger side parking brake cable broke so I replaced both rear cables (front cable appears in good condition).
This past Friday the passenger side brake started making a grinding noise so I pulled the drum to find the self adjuster cable broken and the ratchet jammed between the shoe and the drum. I pulled everything apart and put new shoes (the pin the ratchet pivots on was broken off the rear shoe)and all new adjusting hardware (adjuster screw, ratchet, cable, and cable guide). The rest of the hardware looks in good condition (still paint on the springs and retainers). I got everything put together and took it for a test drive, it had a nice firm brake pedal (it's been a while since this truck has had a firm pedal) and great stopping power.
Took it to work today, and on the way back I stopped to pickup a package from the UPS store. I set the parking brake and put the truck in 1st like I always do. When I got back out to the truck to drive home, I released the parking brake but there was still obvious drag as I drove home (no good place to stop during rush hour), got out of the truck and it reeks of burning brakes. I pulled the driver side drum off (after it cooled), which was rather difficult, and everything looks to be in order except the rear shoe was not touching the post at the top of the backing plate. I checked and the adjuster was still all the way in, so that isn't the issue.
I pulled the parking brake cable out to slack the drum side of it (with the pedal released there is some spring tension from the pedal mechanism) and clamped it with vice grips so the cable was slacked and the shoes were then touching the post, and the drum could be installed and turned relatively easily, I then removed the vice grips and let the spring pull the tension out of the cable and the brake held firmly (requiring considerable effort to turn the drum). Is there anyway to adjust the spring tension on the parking brake cable when the parking brake is released?
Additional notes: when setting the parking brake, the pedal will only go down an inch or 2 before the brakes are locked up tight and the pedal won't move, it used to go down several inches before. also I noticed that the feral on the end of the drivers side cable (that locks into the lever attached to the rear shoe) is deformed, like the cable has too much tension on it. The cables are the correct ones for my wheel base according to Autozone but I'm starting to wonder if they are too short. Spring tension on the parking brake cable (when the brake is not set) causes the parking brake to drag. How do I get the parking brake to stop dragging? ("star" adjusters are new and adjusted all the way in).
I have a 2001 f 350 7.3 diesel r 400 tranny 320000 miles. . Im having transmission issues. It makes a slight whine/ grinding noise only in first And reverse. And it surges. Sometimes its fine though to. Check engine light came on. Only codes i get are #4 glow plug out and a low boost pressure. Checked boost before fixin Running fine at the normal about 20 psi. ive read a bad or dirty map or iat sensor can cause transmission issues along with the low boost error code. But in my experience and some reading it sounds like a stall converter.
View 9 Replies2003 Elantra GT ... Yesterday I went out and heard a sort of grinding noise from the rear. I thought it was the brakes. This morning I took it to a mechanic and he said it was the brake pad rubbing on some rust on the rotor.
This evening my wife took the car out and, in addition to the sound, said she smelled burning rubber. So I took it out and after a while figured out it is the bottom of wheel coil (see photo) on the rear driver side rubbing against the tire! I assume the mechanic didn't spot it because it may move out of contact with the tire when the car is lifted up. What happened here?