Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: 2000 Truck Shudders When Accelerate From A Stop
Oct 22, 2012
I own a 2000 f150, 7700 with 199,000 miles, 5.4 eng. In drive with foot on brake, it idles at 600 rps, fairly smooth. When I accelerate from a stop the engine shudders. Ten months ago I had the plugs replaced, last week I bought 8 new coils and I installed them, no change. I removed the down stream o2 sensor from the exhaust, it was as clean as blued gun metal. Can these 2 sensors be cleaned or tested? The service engine lite is not on. List of things to check?
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I am first time ford owner of a 2003 ford f150 super crew fx4 with the 5.4 Triton and lately when I accelerate hard and it down shifts. It shifts excessively hard or when your going slow and the have to accelerate it also shifts really hard i dont know if it is the diff the U-joints or if its the transmission.
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After/during the rain, every other time my truck loses considerable power to accelerate. It's not consistent but happens increasingly often. As I accelerate up to ~ 50km/h (also when I reverse), my engine will shake the entire truck. Past 50 it "appears" to go away. Typically this will last up to 10 mins and will disappear and run fine again. The last time it happened the check engine light came on and went away the next day. After reading online, I've heard about the "COP" connection??
2003 Ford F-150, 4.6L Triton V8 XL, 2WD
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I have a 2000 f150 with 210000 miles. The truck wants to stall when coming to a stop. I have noticed this from a higher speed and more when at operating temp. The truck runs great and idles at a stop great, but when coming to the stop the rpms drop to300 or so then it catches itself and revs up. I have cleaned the maf sensor the iac and checked throttle body all seem to be in working order and no obvious vacuum leaks.
My power steering pump is going and it's time to change plugs, but don't believe these would only effect the truck at braking. Have heard maybe torque converter is stuck this does make sense cause usually happens after getting out of first gear. Would changing the fluid solve this or should i look at sensors? Fluid starting to turn slight brown probably been in there 80000 miles.
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I have a 1997 Ford F-150 with the 4.6L auto trans 189,000 miles
Ok.. there was no problems until the other day when I unplugged the positive side of the battery to replace it's clamp. I Put the new one on and drove to the store but when I came to a stop, the rpm's dropped to 0 and the truck died. I restarted it and every time I would come to a stop it would die unless I give it a little gas also if I start the truck and leave it in park it idles fine until I give it some gas then let off.. the idle drops and dies! If I give it a little steady gas the idle will return to normal.
The check engine light works fine but never once lit up because of this problem! I used a code scanner and if the truck was off and the key forward, it would have no codes. With it running it had the code P0443. I found and replaced a blown fuse and still have the same problem but it reads no codes at anytime. I checked all the vacuum hoses and there seems to be no leaks and the mass airflow sensor looks clean. I have allot of miles but it has been taken care of well and has had a ton of parts replaced over the last few years.
I am wondering why this happened out of the blue and If there is something I am missing that I should be looking at. I don't want to replace the purge control valve if thats not the problem.
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I have a 99 7.3 F250. It dies when I slow down for a turn or for a stop sign. At highway speed, it 'surges' sometimes, and makes he whole truck jump. Also, there is a small leak in the tube connected to the turbo. Has 250k miles ......
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My 2000 f150 with a 4.6 and just about 200,000 miles stumbled for a minute then died, no engine light came on. It wanted to restart and almost did a couple time's but no go. which leads me to believe it has spark. after about a 30min cool down it started and ran fine like nothing ever happened. Got me home. then the next day same thing died and started after it cooled. Has done this a few time's.
I had put a cheap O'riely fuel pump in it a couple years ago. but i hear if you run your gas tank low on gas a lot (which I do) the pump can get hot and you can toast it. Does the fuel pump is the issue or could i have another problem. And BTW in the past year I have cleaned the EGR port's on the throttle body, put a new egr valve, and fuel filter. And i checked the fuel pressure to had 40...
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2000 ford f150 4.6 auto. Will spin over but won't start. checked coil for fire, no fire. Check fuel rail for fuel, no fuel. No theft light flashing and no check engine light on. Has new battery and plenty of fuel in tank. Started fine yesterday but not today.
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2000 2WD 4.6L ... I was trouble shooting why the truck will not start after it has run for awhile then sits for about an hour. I was checking the connections on the solenoid switch on the fire wall when my wrench slipped and touched both terminals on the solenoid and the engine starter kicked in. I tightened the connection then tried to start the truck with no luck. so I tried leaving the key in the "ON" position and jumped the two terminals and the truck started. Does this tell me I have a bad solenoid switch?
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I have a 2000 f150 with 200k miles. I have no spark and no gas at the fuel rail Schrader valve. I have replaced the shaft pos sensor, no start. I have checked the fuses and the relays. I have crawled under truck and listen for the fuel pump to turn on while someone turned the key to on and heard nothing. I have 2 keys and while turning the key to on and start, the THEFT lite flashes. I have checked the impact sensor on the passing sick panel, it hasn't been tripped.
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I have a 2000 F150 4WD 5.4 running Extremely rich to bank one. The O2 sensors for bank 1 are reading lean(0-50 mV) Bank two is completely unaffected. New plugs in Bank one, 3 new coils in bank one, all pvc lines checked with good vacuum. Previous codes : P0171, P0301-3. The Truck will barely move. Would a small leak up stream of the O2 sensors cause this?
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I have a 2000 f150 4x2 5.4 168k... Check engine came on,started shaking, weather was really cold. RPM would be a little high then low then back up. Especially when I turned on heater. Felt like truck would die but never does nor does it have issue starting.
So far, I have replaced two oxygen sensors inside engine,all coils, spark plugs, fuel filter, had injectors cleaned, intake cleaned. Truck runs better but, light came on a day later again. I can feel the tiniest of shaking going on and, cold mornings still make RPMS a little unstable. I was driving truck on highway at about 60 mph when a slight tug was felt and Truck check engine came on. I feel truck heavy, once it warms up completely, a little lighter.
Codes came up at auto zone as P1151
But I'm running out of options and frankly, money to fix this truck.
Checked the MAF and looked okay.
I'm with minimal skills.
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I have a 2000 f150 with 5.4 Triton with 165k miles. I did invest in a code reader. It started missing and code P0302 came up along with P0171. Put new coil on #2 and truck ran fine for a few days. Then it started to run rough again. Shaking, Idle rough, no power and CEL came on again. This time code P0171. I changed out fuel filter to no avail. My next step was to start looking for vacuum leaks. As I'm searching, All I am finding is trucks with this problem also get P0174 code. My question is since I am only getting lean on one bank does that pretty much eliminate things like MAF or the famous elbow vacuum leak and make something that only affects one bank like an O2 sensor on CAT more likely?
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I have a 2000 f150 with a 5.4 past few months it has been throwing a p1151 code meaning it is coming up lean on the driver side. I just changed the plugs and it didn't work, neither did changing the fuel and air filters. cant find any vacuum or exhaust leaks. Replaced a bad injector along with the spark plugs and its still coming up lean.
The truck also seems to bog down at about 50-60 mph if i let off the gas and coast it will drop about 300 rpms. It has me confused and annoyed, i have true duals with glass packs could that be causing it?
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When I accelerate from a dead stop I have this squeaking that comes from the back of the truck that goes away after a few seconds. Then when I get up to about 50mph I have this really annoying vibration. Its not a real heavy vibration but it is there. I am thinking it could be the universal joints, am I way off here or what?
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2001 S-Crew, 4RW70, 5.4L, 189,000 miles. This started two years ago and first became apparent when I made a hard/panic stop. In fact, the first time it did it I was going to go through a traffic light and hit the brakes at the last second so I didn't actually run the red light. The truck shook like it missed for a second. That was unlikely as the coils and plugs were relatively new.
Here's what it does. When sitting still, in gear and you let off the brake but do not touch the accelerator, the truck will start to move as expected. It immediately shudders as it passes through 3-5 mph and then stops. It shifts through all the gears flawlessly, has no sign of the dreaded torque converter issue. It also does it as you come to a stop- as you come to a full stop and the trans shifts into 1st it shudders just as you come to a halt.
It started doing two years ago and never progressed. It's been the same until just recently when the weather got warm again. It's gotten a bunch worse in the last week and now the truck actually feels like it is idling rough sitting at a stop. (It's not- it's running fine.) But it feels like clutch chatter in a manual. Fluid changes have been routinely done every 30,000-40,000 miles, trans fluid is clear and not burnt, temps are normal.
As I said, it behaves perfectly the rest of the time and even tows my 20' 4,000 lb. boat just fine. Just that initial moment of take-off and at the stop. If I hit the gas when taking off I never feel it. Likewise, if you shift into neutral and coast to a stop it doesn't do it.
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I just bought a 00 f150 4x4 with a 5.4 auto...it wouldn't start but not because something was wrong. it kept making a clicking sound and the theft light was one blinking...took my bronco to work and when I came home it started right up...I was thinking one of the keys didn't have the chip in it but it started with both keys....it doesn't have a key fob or keyless entry. I tried locking my drivers door with the key and unlock it...
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Yr 2000 F-150 with V6 . Only 68K miles. 3 weeks ago went into fast food for lunch and then truck would not start. The starter would spin it over real well and plenty of gas etc etc. I came back the next day with a tow truck to take it to the dealer and it cranked and ran perfectly for 3 weeks till yesterday. Same thing. Will not start in parking lot of grocery store.
I only have one key and someone suggested that it could be the chip in the key or the theft system acting up. I only have one key from when I bought the truck 7 years ago used. Someone else said when the anti theft system is screwing up, the motor will be totally dead and starter will not work.
This time I am again planning to tow to the dealer and I fear a huge bill for something that is actually very tiny at fault since the truck runs perfectly well and then mysteriously will not start. This is the 2nd time in 3 weeks I have been stranded. I pulled all the fuses and reinserted. I checked all spark wires and they are in good shape and tight. What could it be that all of a sudden causes the engine to not start up and run intermittently ?
It is something I can do myself and I am pretty capable. I replaced in the last year water pump, power steering pump, ball joints and alternator. So what is not getting..... fuel or spark? The only two things we need for to run ... right ?
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I have had this truck for a few weeks. I do not have a good history on this truck. the guy I got it from did not seem to know much about it. He got it from a local retired painter. It has 230K on it. It seems to run and start OK. So I got up and decided to take the truck because I'm trying to determine if it reliable or not. Its about 45F. It starts fine and idles fine I'm cleaning the windows.
About the time I'm done the idle speed slows sightly it shudders a bit and stops! I try to restart is a bit. No sign of life I take a car to work. After work it's about 68F, I open the fuel filter to check for fuel. That makes a mess! I clean it up the mess and she fires right up. I take her for a little spin everything seems fine. The CEL never came on. What do you think? I figured fuel from the way it died, but after work she fires right up. I do not want to get stuck on the way to work!
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For over a year, the truck took 5-6 seconds of cranking to start, but always started. This morning it started, but shakes, coughs, and vibrates like hell. It revs up but still sounds like its hitting only on a few. replaced ciols many times over the years, but this sounds different.
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I have a 1997 Honda Cr-V. Everything is great except, when I try to accelerate. From a stop, say, at a light, I cannot get it to accelerate smoothly. It feels like the engine gets bogged down. I almost have to feather the gas peddle just to get it to go. Once its gotten going and I am accelerating over about 15 or 20 mph everything it fine.
Also, when I've reached my intended speed and let go of the gas peddle, only to accelerate again, there is no problem.
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