Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: 2000 - Shudders Then Died?
Nov 29, 2016
I have had this truck for a few weeks. I do not have a good history on this truck. the guy I got it from did not seem to know much about it. He got it from a local retired painter. It has 230K on it. It seems to run and start OK. So I got up and decided to take the truck because I'm trying to determine if it reliable or not. Its about 45F. It starts fine and idles fine I'm cleaning the windows.
About the time I'm done the idle speed slows sightly it shudders a bit and stops! I try to restart is a bit. No sign of life I take a car to work. After work it's about 68F, I open the fuel filter to check for fuel. That makes a mess! I clean it up the mess and she fires right up. I take her for a little spin everything seems fine. The CEL never came on. What do you think? I figured fuel from the way it died, but after work she fires right up. I do not want to get stuck on the way to work!
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so i was driving along & my 2000 f250 7.3 started to chug then died. I pulled over & it started right back up. I did some running around & was on my way home & it did it again only this time it would barely idle (same chugging). It died again & now it wont start. Turns over strong.....
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2001 Ford Excursion 7.3 will run barely for about 20 sec. shudders, then dies. Bought new, driven 334K miles. Performed the usual fixes common to 7.3 issues over the years. All original injectors except for #7 which I replaced about 5 yrs ago. (I know should have replaced in sets but not in the budget at the time). Anyway had my wife turn the engine over after I had removed valve covers for inspection and observed a lot of smoke coming out of what appears to be at or around number 7 rocker arm valley? All rocker arm/pushrods look to be moving as they should beyond that I'm in over my head. Am I screwed or could it possibly just be a bad injector/injectors?
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I am a cummins owner who just got a 2002 7.3 last week. It drove great for 200 miles then suddenly died last night going 60 mph. It sat overnight then started up and drove 10 miles then died again. I changed the cps and still no start. I changed the oil and let it sit overnight and it started this morning and idled for 5 minutes then died again. I have tried unplugging the ipc and still same no start situation. I plan to check the hpop level today to verify it is full. I also checked the nut on the ipr and it's electrical connection.
I am just a shade tree at best and would love some direction on where to look. I don't have any scan equipment to check pressures. Am I correct in thinking it is a bad ipr?
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Well, I was headed out from work this morning, on my way to fill up as I was a bit below 1/4 tank.
Truck was running good, like normal, until after 5-6 minutes, when it started running rough and had no power. Worried, I pulled off the side of the road. As I did so, it died, and wouldn't start again.
I whipped out my phone, pulled up TorquePro, and ran a code check. Nada. Well, it sounds to me like it's not getting fuel possibly, so I figure the best way to check, is to drain the fuel filter bowl, and crank it some, and check the bowl. No fuel in bowl.
Wifey came to pick me up with the can of diesel I keep for starting my forge (had 3 gal maybe?). Poured it in the tank, cranked it, no start. Still nothing in the bowl.
I'm taking her to work now, so she won't be late, then I'm headed back with a full can of diesel.
If that full can still won't get it, should I keep shuttling diesel cans, or should 8 gal or so be enough to get it back to the fuel pickup level? And if it's not fuel level, what else should I start checking on the side of the road?
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I have a 2002 F250 Super Duty. Was driving it and it started to lose power and shut off. Then wouldn't start like out of fuel. No engine light no codes. Truck has 155k on it. So just because I replaced fuel pump. Truck runs but not right it's ruff no power kinda back fires in exhaust. I check wires and plugs under valve covers all seems ok. I ran truck and pulled each injector loose and engine would stumble. As in they are working. I replaced cps. Just because still the same. Then the truck started running right. But the truck runs but has knock but knock goes away and truck has full power. Yes oil is full and I change it regularly. The problem is off and on like electrical.
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I have a 2003 F350 SD FWD Dually With 4.10 Axle Ratio. I'm looking for some front rotors and pads and I'm looking for recommendations. I tow a 44' Goose neck racing trailer on a regular basis so I dont want autozone crap rotors that are going to warp in a few thousand miles. I was on rockauto.com, they have Wagner, Bendix, Motocraft, Powerstop, etc etc. I thought maybe those Powerstop drilled and slotted looked interesting, but I dont know much about them.
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i just bought my first diesel truck, a 7.3 of course. 2002 f350 4x4 crew cab, short bed. Any ways i drove it for like 2 weeks and left it at my uncles house so he can use to go to work. then 2 days later he calls me to tell me that the truck shut off while driving just like that. he tried turning it on a couple of times and it would just crank. he gave up and had it towed. I have been looking through all power strokes forums and found some solutions like changing the CPS or the IPR.
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Jumped in the 1999 cc dually 7.3 6 spd superduty.
Just rebuilt the rear locker ( FYI if you use new clutches Do NOT add clutches, it is TOO tight now) and rest of rear end.
Full of fuel, drove it half the day only minor issues. Cruise, Horn, 4x4, suddenly would not work, but it was running and driving like it always has.
Around lunch while at 55 mph it shuttered hard like it had stalled for a second. I stopped and checked the oil. It was just above the add but I topped it off and went one. The further I went the more it happened.
So I decided to head back to shop and switch it with the car i had left there. It finally died like it was out of fuel.
next day I take 5 gallons of fuel and put in it ( maybe the gauge is acting up like the horn, cruise and 4x4?), it brings it from 3/4 plus to full mark, so gauge is working accurate. I also keep a fuel log that says i went 100 miles since last fill up.
Get in, it fires right up. I leave it sit and idle while i park the car. About 5 minutes and it dies. It will start run a few seconds and die again. The more I try it the shorter time it runs.
Finally does not want it start at all. I read about disconnecting plug on inside left front of valve cover , that had not effect. Crawled under, and frame mounted fuel pump is running.
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Ok so this past Saturday I drove the truck about 40 miles round trip to get fuel and came back to the house to pick up my tux for a wedding I was in that afternoon. On the way to the wedding I went about 10 miles down the highway doing about 65-70 mph and all of a sudden I heard the engine just shut off. No stutter or anything.
Went to restart and nothing just cranks. had to call and get a tow back to the house real quick and grab the excursion and head to the wedding. When I got home on Sunday I hooked AE up and started to poke around.
RPM around 150-170
Batt Voltage 11.5-12
IPR up to 65%
ICP 0 (have tried to unplug and start) (sensor is dry no oil bleed through)
Buzz test is good all injectors are strong. I am sure it is the lack of oil pressure but I dont know why. I can get more info from AE if needed.
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So there's no signal/ electrical feed to the passenger side cylinders. I ohmd all the UVCH and they check out. Moved the wiring harness around near the big black multi pin plug under the air intake to the turbo and the passenger bank kicks in and out so it's definitely a wiring short. Need links and pics to that multi pin plug to troubleshoot the wiring.....
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So I'm on my way out of town, when the truck just doesn't feel right. I proceed to make a u turn and pull off the high way. During the course of the u turn the truck shuts off. I pop the hood and notice the oil is everywhere from the fuel bowl back. Oil is also dripping off the passenger frame rail.
There is also a nice size puddle of oil pooled under the truck. I believe that I blew the high pressure oil line that feeds the injectors. I had to get towed back home. If it is the high pressure hose, how much does the stealership normally charge?
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On the way to work, the truck seemed to have a miss at idle and the CE light came on. Long crank to start leaving work, and truck starts losing power and eventually died. No smoke while it was losing power. Towed it home and checked the fuel pump and lines for blockage and found nothing.
2003 7.3 F-250 430K miles
strong cranking but no start no smoke out exhaust
Oil changed recently
IPR changed
Both UVCH gaskets and pigtails have been repaired.
ICP sensor and harness changed, also disconnected no change in cranking.
fuel filter changed today (no oil in bowl)
3/4 tank of fuel
dash gauge for lpop goes up to normal range during cranking and oil light turns off.
WTS light comes on and turns off as normal
tach gauge moves up between 100-200 during cranking
fuel pump turns on and pressurizes system like normal and turns off.
Ordered AE for the truck, and it directed me to the passenger side bank high open. Fixed the harness on that side and still nothing.
Sent off the IDM and it passed with flying colors
So now i'm leaning towards the HPOP, but would hate to fork over the cash for it and still not get anywhere. I'm going to take the valve covers back off and check the discharge ports for the injectors tomorrow.
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My one owner 2001 7.3l F350 w/ 265K miles died a few days ago at a traffic light. First time it has ever died on me other than a CPS. This dying was an almost instantaneous with no CEL light, unlike the CPS's hiccuping and dash light up. I put it in park and it started right back up like normal. I continued about my errands and made it home. I have since driven it two more times the same distance and it has not died.
What I have done on this truck the past year.
-Replaced ICP -3/14
-Rebuilt IPR and checked IPR plug -6/14
-Replaced fuel filter every 7500 miles and I am probably due another one of those now
-Replaced air filter - 4/15
-Cleaned out both the sensor and the exhaust back pressure tube
-replaced CPS w/ dark blue unit from RiffRaff in -8/14
-checked main harness over driver valve cover and placed a piece of heavy duty wire cover wrap where they touch the valve cover -8/14
UVWH replace in 2008
Have a new IPR and pigtail coming just because I wanted to eliminate a bad solenoid on it. I also have a Torque Pro w/ blue tooth adapter on an LG tablet that I have yet to set up....but am working on it Will the truck throw any codes if the CEL didn't light up?
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I have a 2002 f350 dually with a 7.3 and 197k. At 186k it died while driving and I had it towed home. As soon as the tow truck dropped it the truck fired right up like nothing was wrong. Then it died again 2 days later. I replaced the cps, but the fix was replacing the icp and pigtail. Now it is doing the same thing again. It died on my wife while driving yesterday, i had it towed to the dealership I work at and it started and ran for about 2 hours with no issues. I hooked up the factory IDS and had a diesel tech look at it with me. The oil pressure, injector circuit and injectors, and IPR all look good. The batteries were a little weak so i replaced both of them. I drove it home yesterday, about 10 miles, and drove it around town today. Then i tried to jump start my 96 bronco and after about 10 minutes of running it sort of hick uped then 5 minutes later it died and would not start. I let it set for 30 minutes and it started and died after about a minute.
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I was driving on highway about 55MPH when I lost power suddenly. I was able to pull off, but did not have power brakes or power steering. Gas tank was near 1/4 gallon on the gauge, but sometimes my gauge is wrong, as I've run out 2x when I should have still had a few gallons in it.
At first I thought CPS, but I didn't have a spare with me to swap. Well, after an hour or so, I cranked it, and it would turn over but not even try to start. I floored the gas pedal and it fired up and I was able to get home.
During the no start issue, there was no oil pressure reading on the gauge and the tach was not moving, even though it was turning strong. There was no white smoke that I could see either.
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I have a 2001 F350 7.3l diesel.
My truck died the other day while driving almost like he ran out of fuel. Well he had fuel so I checked the oil and it was dry. There was an ugly puddle between the intakes and a whole lot on the ground leaking out. Also the puddle looked blueish.
Put in more oil and got him home but I can't find the leak. The only thing I've noticed is that the intercooler on the cold side came off slightly. A year ago I had to go mess with the UCVH and when I put it back together I had lost a dang intercooler duct clamp and replaced it with a sturdy ring clamp. Well it wasn't sturdy enough.
How much would this leak if it came off for a little while and how serious of a problem would I have as a result? I don't have any check engine light and as long as he has oil he runs fine.
Since I have reconnected the intercooler and idle tested the truck I can't reproduce the leak. I don't believe that a huge amount of oil is running through that intercooler because the turbo is lubricated through another system I have read. So what gives?
Also I am getting weird dip stick reading. For a little while when I ran the truck today he was showing WAY over full on the dip and then down again a little bit below the operating range line. Also there are a lot of air bubbles on the dip stick when it comes up. Way more than I am used to seeing.
Also, I really like the idea of cleaning my engine off really good. It's a frigging mess now. What precautions can I take to clean it up good without making a huge mess. Can I just go the car wash that has a degreaser hose and drain and just spray it down like nothing or is it sensitive and finnicky when wet? Cleaning between the intakes seems almost impossible without getting the whole turbo system out of the way. Should I be thinking about that?
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I have a 2002 f350 dually with a 7.3 and 197k. At 186k it died while driving and I had it towed home. As soon as the tow truck dropped it the truck fired right up like nothing was wrong. Then it died again 2 days later. I replaced the cps, but the fix was replacing the icp and pigtail. Now it is doing the same thing again. It died on my wife while driving yesterday, i had it towed to the dealership I work at and it started and ran for about 2 hours with no issues.
I hooked up the factory IDS and had a diesel tech look at it with me. The oil pressure, injector circuit and injectors, and IPR all look good. The batteries were a little weak so i replaced both of them. I drove it home yesterday, about 10 miles, and drove it around town today. Then i tried to jump start my 96 bronco and after about 10 minutes of running it sort of hick uped then 5 minutes later it died and would not start. I let it set for 30 minutes and it started and died after about a minute.
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On my way to work today it was raining so I turned my head lights on. All the dash warning lights came on and my truck had zero throttle response. I quickly turned my lights off. The truck went right back to normal. I turned my lights back on and nothing happened.
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My 01 4x4 F350CCD was having this "issue" where, after leaving it plugged in all night, I would start it up with no problems but then after idling for maybe 15-30 seconds it would just fade out and shut off. The first few times I would hit the key again and it would crank for an extended period but then refire and it would idle normally. Eventually I learned that if I held the idle up at around 1000 I could see the rpm drop slightly after starting but it wouldn't shut off.
About a week ago I started the truck and wasn't paying attention and didn't hold the throttle open and the truck shut off. This time after cranking it (probably way to much) it wouldn't start at all. I changed the fuel filter but that did nothing. I also notice that the tach does move to around 500 or so when cranking. I have not changed the CPS but a new one had been installed in May 2015. The engine is cranking but there is no white smoke or even attempt to fire.
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2001 f250 7.3 with 210,000 miles. Was running rough when cold and glow plugs were bad so I bought new glow plugs and had injectors rebuilt with 100% over stock nozzles. When I changed them I made sure I turned the motor with glow plugs out and pulled the drain plug in the head. Wanted to start it just to get the oil out before I let it sit for a few days til I got the tuner. It started fine and I let it run while I ran in the house and when I came back out about 1 min later it was off. Didn't want to start again. Just left it til I got the tuner on and It still doesn't want to start. What I should check? Turns over good and has good batteries. Also it's a hydra chip tuner with beans tunes. Darren weeks rebuilt the injectors.
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