Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: 2001 5.4L V8 Won't Start - Codes P0401 And P1740
Apr 16, 2016
My truck, the aforementioned 01 f150 5.4 has been running fine but has had the codes p0401 and p1740. I know what they both mean I just haven't fixed them yet. Today I went to move my truck and it wouldnt start. It turned over fine and would hit some but wouldn't start. Would the tcc solenoid be the cause of that? Also the reason my egr is throwing is because there is a line that is not connected but I have no clue where it connects to... Where is the best place to get diagrams for the egr system.
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2000 f150 4x4 5.4l 4r70w Trans. I am getting these 2 codes and I have read on 1 or the other what they mean but nothing I can find on getting both codes at the same time. Truck runs drives and shifts fine Fluid is full and clean. Trying to figure out where I should start looking first.
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This is what I have done I have 5.4 168,000 on motor . I have codes p0401 p0701 p0704 and some others .I can run truck for about 15min and it starts to lose power .I can't go over 1500 rpm . I have changed egr cleaned throttle body checked for vacum leaks changed the dpfe . new plugs . I have had a misfire code on number 1 but that code has stopped . I have put new fuel filter .I have a cheap scanner I use and it probably won't give me what I want also I changed down stream 02 sensors .
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My 97 F150 4.6 4x4 threw a P0302 and P0401 the other day, I traced the miss fire to a loose injector plug. I reset the codes last weekend, I got in the truck and went to the Dump and to town to pick some stuff up. It threw the EGR code again, so this morning I did a little checking on the EGR I cranked the truck and disconnected the FPR vacuum line and hooked it to the EGR valve and the truck died down but didn't completely die.
Now the green line that went to the EGR valve felt like it had a slight bit of pressure coming from it. Is this normal? I did pull the white feed line from the EGR Regulator and it had good vacuum.
The regulator also makes a humming sound when you cut the truck off. Ill be pulling the alternator this weekend due to it going out last night, while I'm in there if Ive got to pull the throttle body id rather do it while I'm elbow deep in it. So does it sound more like a Clogged Throttle body or a Faulty sensor?
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I have a code P1740 that sets after a couple of drive cycles. This is preceeded by a flashing "Overdrive Off" light, until the MIL eventually comes on.
The only driveability symptom seems to be a premature downshift into first when slowing down. When cruising at highway speeds, I can turn OD on or off using the switch on the end of the shift lever and all appears OK.
Could it be the OD solenoid, and if so is this something I could change myself?
2001 F-150 4.6L 51K miles
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I have a p0401 generic exhaust gas recirculation flow insufficant detected code on my truck I was wondering what would be the first thing to check to get ride of this code? my truck hesitates from a stop while excelerating to several thousand rpm. should I try replacing the dpfe sensor? what does dpfe stand for? do they sell this sensor at oreilys or do you half to get this a the dealership?
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CEL has been on for a few months, emissions testing came up so we read the codes (P0401 & p0401p) . We took it to the mechanic we always go to, a local one and they ran a full diagnostic and they said there were no leaks and no build up. Everything checked out fine and all they could suggest was replacing the Solenoid (Don't get me started on that) they said they were baffled (a wee bit worrying). So we did that and 20 minutes later the light was back on . In fact, every time we reset the code it comes on 20 minutes later.
The car is due back for Emissions in a month since it failed.
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Ok, did a quick search, found nothing. Is there a way to get CEL codes without a reader on '01 F150? I know the way on 80's stuff, is there on newer stuff?
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I got an 2001 f150 4.2l v6, 5speed. It started running real rough almost like it was hitting on only 3 cylinders I replaced the crank sensor and did a tune up on it along with a new coil pack and now it won't hit a lick the plugs are getting fire, it's getting fuel but, will not start it's not throwing any engine codes. Which leads me to believe it may have a bad ecm.
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So here's the background. I recently bought this truck. It's a 97 Ford f150 4x4 4.6l 99w vin code. Anyway Driving it home got a p0401. No problem. I Applied vacuum from other vacuum source to EGR engine stalls. So to me passages are clean in the throttle body. I checked to verify and indeed passages are clean. No while doing so I noticed no vacuum was making its way to the dose valve thing. Strange.... So took the line that runs to the passenger fender to dose off and it was impossible to blow air through.
So I cut out the clogged section found solder in the line. I filled the gap I now created using some 5/32 vacuum line reconnected to test and to my anvil still not vacuum. So I disconnected it again. Went directly to where the yellow/orange dose vacuum line connects to at the passenger fender and to my surprise no vacuum there either. No my question is. Am i suppose to have constant vacuum to the dpse or I'm I just being an idiot. And two if I am suppose to when the vacuum line runs into the passange fender where does it go from there and could I have a major issue in my hands?
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On my 98' f250 4.6L 4x4 .. My check engine keeps going off and on, I finally pulled the code and its the P0401. The truck pings and knocks now and than and idles a tiny bit rough sometimes but overall runs good and gets the same mpg it always gets.....is this a bad egr valve?
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2001 f 150 5.4 liter with it being code pops up saying cylinder one misfire, I've charge coil and spark plug ran great for awhile now starting to act up again. Got coil check and says still good and look at spark plug and looks still in good shape being just replace two weeks ago. It's running fine but if it sits over night and I get in and start it and begins to shake when I but it in drive and don't even need to move the truck just place it in drive with foot on break. I drive it awhile and it stops and runs fine?
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I've had a 0401 code on my truck for the last two years. I've replaced the EGR valve and the dpfe sensor a couple of times, with fomoco parts. Ive also cleaned out the egr tube that comes off the exhaust manifold. In this time I also discovered a couple of vacuum leaks and replaced those. I changed the pcv valve, tried running 93 octane gas, and had a mechanic friend run a special smoke through the vacuum lines to find more leaks. Also put a brand new gas cap. I have an obd computer and cleared the code repeatedly but the light always returns.
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My 2001 F-150 came up with this code and I changed the EGR valve cleared the code and it returned 15 miles later. The truck only has 30K miles and the warranty expired 24 May.
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Have a p0401 code which I need to diagnose and solve. However, I don't believe the symptoms are indicative of the EGR system. Its a 1999 4.6L auto approximately 200k miles. Truck runs fine until it warms up, and then occasionally it begins to act like its missing under load. steady state on the freeway it may have an occasional miss, but put a load on the motor and the miss becomes real bad. This doesn't seem to me to be symptomatic of a P0401 code, but I don't really understand the EGR system enough to be sure. Searching on the forums for other p0401 codes doesn't seem to have the same symptoms.
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Dreaded insufficient EGR flow. I've read I should clean the EGR ports.
I can't really find where these are? I took the throttle body off.
What I should do with this thing? I also get a hesitation on initial take off.
1999 F150 4.2 V6 ... 160k miles on it. Runs good otherwise.
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Has a P0401 code EGR unSufficient flow. Ive read several things that it could be, from a DPFE sensor to the EGR valve it's self our that the port going into the TB could be plugged. Truck drives fine does not have a miss or anything noticeable when driving other than the CEL, trucks a 4.6 with 200k on it. Forgot to mention it sometimes gets a P0455 code but i assumed that is gas cap. or could it be related?
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97 4.6.. So it would appear that I have the wild goose chase of codes. The major symptoms are rough idle and very poor performance. I started off by cleaning the egr valve and ports. Then I checked the egr valve itself and watched the valve open and close under a vacuum. I was suspecting the DPFE sensor but I wanted to trying something else first. I was under the Impression that if at idle you apply a vacuum to the egr valve it would cause the engine to "stumble and stall". I did this and there was no change in the way the engine was running. So now I'm lost as to where to go from here.
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I have a 01 f150 7700 with a 5.4L and its throwing codes po135, po155, po174, and po171. Here is the history, last year had same code and found it was a bad ELLBOW on pcv hose, replaced and that fixed it, I also had a crack on egr valve and I replaced that too. This Jan truck was running bad in the morning and I traced it to a bad idle air controller, replaced it. I got a code and guy said I had a bad pcv valve so I replaced it.
About 3 weeks ago check engine light came back on with the 4 codes listed above, I replaced both front o2 sensors, 250,000 mile so I thought that was it but came back same code, I took it to a local mechanic and he said that the intake gaskets need replaced, but he call me later and said I had no leaks on the intake and that he did find another vac leak. He didn't charge me anything and sent me on my way.
I drove the truck about 50 miles and same codes back, so to recap I have cleaned mad sensor, replaced both front o2 sensors, a new egr valve, a new idle air control, pcv valve, pcv hose and ELLBOW, don't know what to look at next. Any clues?
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I have been having odd problems with my truck for several weeks now and what the problem may be. Occasionally the truck will not start. This happens after it has been run for an errand or to church. The truck turns over but no ignition. Sometimes if I pump the gas pedal very quickly I can get it to start. Other times I have to sit and wait about 5 minutes. I have gotten the following two error codes - P1506=Cylinder Head Temp Sensor and P1299=Idle Air Control Overspeed Error. For two days the "check engine" light was on, but now it has gone out. I have searched for an answer to this problem on these boards and one possibility may be a vacuum leak. Is this the most likely? 1998 Triton 4.6 ....
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Have a 2000 F-150, 5.4L. Once recently in a parking lot, it would crank but not fire or start. Wife called me to come get her. By the time I got there, she said it started "after she loosened the gas cap & re-closed it." But, it started fine for next several weeks. Yesterday it didn't. I read a bunch of threads here on possibilities. Many troubleshoot items I checked out or had done.
Chilton manual says you can get limited error codes from the light on dash flashing - MIL - Malfunction Indicator Lamp Method.
For now, I'm trying to find the 2nd, separate, one-wire lead "near or with the (main) Diagnostic Connector." They call the single wire / connector the "Self-Test Input connector" (STI). You're supposed to use a jumper between that STI & the upper, right connector of the main diagnostic connector. Then you (may) get flashes corresponding to codes via the key on, engine off method.
I see no such single wire lead or connector anywhere near there. Not up under the dash either - stuck my head under there & used mirror. There's a separate connector (not in use) clipped on the L side of the main diagnostic connector, but it has 5 pins inside. I took pics, but forum says I "may not post attachments." Been a member for yrs. That extra 5 pin connector faces toward firewall.
There's an "empty hole" - 1/4 in. (facing forward) in the bracket that holds the main diagnostic connector. Just above the main connector. Not sure if something was ever there
If no one knows how / if the Malfunction Indicator Lamp Method works or where the jumper goes, I'll be forced to buy a code reader w/o researching which are decent or crap (around $200 or less). I maybe? could wait to order one online (if knew which one). Also have AutoZone, O'Reilly, Advance, NAPA, PepBoys & others locally.
* The truck shows a check engine soon light, so should be a code already. * Yes, I tried her loosen / tighten gas cap trick.
* Also put a slow charger on for a while & even used the fast start setting on charger. No go, but engine turns really fast.
* Crawled under the gas tank & listened for fuel pump to activate when key is turned to Run.
* Fuel pump made a small noise - more like a relay or "clicking" - not a whine or whir.
* Checked most fuses - under dash & hi voltage box - that have anything to do w/ fuel pump, PCM & several others - mentioned in similar threads here.
Can't really check relays & don't want to just start replacing parts. I don't have a code reader & reluctant to buy one from local store w/o some reasonable research. (I don't mind buying one, but...). If I could drive it to the auto store, I wouldn't be asking this. Chilton's doesn't say if this malfunction indicator lamp method will work if a vehicle won't start. But, a code is already thrown.
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