Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: 2001 - Disc Brake - Pads Will Smoke If Do A Hard Stop
Jul 18, 2017
2001 supercrew 4x4 all wheel disc brakes. Driver side brake is stopping harder than all the rest to the point that the pads will smoke if you do a hard stop
thought it was the caliper sticking. Replaced caliper and mount. Still same problem. Thought possibly there was air in the lines. Bled all 4 brakes several times. And still the driver front wheel still stopping harder than the rest. I wouldn't think it would be the master cylinder.
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Is there a thread on how to change the disc brake pads? I need to do it but don't want to make any mistakes......
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My 18 year old launched the little wire spring thing that applies pressure for the brake pads on front disc brakes. Could have gone in to neighbor's yard! Actually lost one on each side. He put it all back together without one on each side. I said it would still work fine. What's the deal really? Can't be that important are they?
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I know on some cars and trucks you need a special tools to push the caliper back in. i just use a large c clamp to do the job. Question do i need any special tools to replace the front brakes pads?
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After removing the tires, I can't figure out how to remove the brake pads to change them. How to do it? Does the caliper have to come off? These are on the rear. 2001 F150 4X4...
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01' Screw 5.4 4wd. Went camping this past weekend and it was the first outing for this truck our TT weighs 6k. When accelerating from a dead stop going straight I'm getting a rumble strip like vibration that last a second. If I take off very easy it doesn't do it. I've seen similar post but no definitive solutions. This truck has less then a 100k on it and so far I've changed the trans filter/fluid rear end oil with modifier and new spark plugs.
Once I'm rolling and hammer down it won't do it. It's more of a annoyance then anything.
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My 2001 7.3 was smoking excessively and I rebuilt the turbo and the center cartridge was at fault for that. I'm still having some of the problems I was having before with a lot of smoke at cold start (I have to hold the accelerator down while I start it and it takes about 10 seconds to start) even when I hold it I have to keep it held for about 5-10 seconds before the RPMs get to where they should be. And it smokes like crazy.
Then after about 3 minutes warming up, or 30 seconds of me holding it at 3500 rpm, the idle smooths out and it only smokes a little. Then once I start driving it doesn't smoke a lot unless I go hammer down then it puffs some white smoke. I took the oil cap off and it isn't huge amounts of blow by cap just rattles off. Can ford buzz test and see if I only have 1 or 2 bad injectors? Could this be anything other than injectors? It has a ts6 on it with 24xxxx miles with factory injectors.
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I just hit a pot hole this morning. Not too bad but instantly the abs/brake light and chime came on. Parked the car and turned it on and off to no avail. I drove home while the car was very hard to stop.
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What would cause my front disc brakes not to work. I have replaced the master cylinder, calipers, hoses and pads. Backs work fine but I can not get good pressure to the front. 1993 f150 5.0 ..
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I have 2002 f150 XL 4.6 L 2 wheel drive.Do i have rear discs?Need to change them not sure what to buy.
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I have a 1997 F250LD 4WD. I was driving and came to a stop light. I hit the brakes and the pedal was rock hard with what seemed to be very little travel. I pushed hard to get to a stop and the abs activated and I came to a slow stop. This has happened about 3 times over the last 1000 miles of driving. I see no ABS or Engine lights. Most of the time the brakes are normal. Pads are fine, fluid is fine. Brake booster seems to work fine, pedal is not mushy or hard to press other than the 3 or so times this has happened. Once this happens I can let off the brake and everything is normal. I have not found any vacuum leaks.
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Changing rear drum brakes to discs? I've done it with my 94 explorer, and i was wondering if the axles are the same, just swap the hardware like the explorers are.
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I am trying to change pads on the rear disc brakes. I got everything apart but can't get the piston to retract to get the new pads in. I am turning the piston clockwise with needle nose plyers and it isn't retracting. What do I need to do?
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Can I or could I make an 04 Radio with a 6 disc changer work in a 1999 F150. The radio in the truck now is having some issues and I don't want to put an after market in so I am just wondering if it could work.
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I got a 2002 f150, right now it has a 9.75 with disc brakes. But it exploded. I can only find a 9.75 with drums in the wrecking yard. Can I just swap my disc brakes on to the axle with drums?
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I bought my 2008 last year at 23,000 miles. They brake pedal will go pretty low to the floor and the brake pads do not bite good. Now at 40,000 miles is doing the same thing. I was in downtown a couple of times and I had to slam on the brakes as traffic is crazy. It would not stop and keep on rolling. It was really scary. I am pretty sure it has the original brake pads. I can change the pads but I have a feeling that there is air in the lines. The brake fluid in the reservoir has never dropped. I believe it has ABS. Anything special on 2008 model with ABS ? I will try to bleed it and also changed the pads. My question is, is it possible to have air in the lines at 23,000 miles ?
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I've had this "rattle" when going over uneven roads for about the past few months and I think I narrowed it down to the rear calipers. They are both tight, but it seems as though the "floating" ability of the caliper is loose.....does that make any sense? I mean you can grab the caliper and it'll make a rattling noise, but the bolts are tight..
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My 2001 f150 4x4 with a 4r70w start slaming hard. Once at speed in overdrive it ran fine. Then driving around 25 it would be fine for a minute or so then I could feel it binding up then a hard slam. Then it would drive fine for a minute and do it again. Mechanical? Electronic? Torque converter?
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I have a 2010 model 5 and am experiencing a woo, woo, woo, woo type sound. I thought it was from the rear but after jacking up and turning each rear wheel, all I hear is the slight drag from the pads on the disc. The car has 61K on it and from previous posts that seems to be about the mileage range for one. It is most noticeable above 25 to 45 mph. Bad front bearing with this sound? The car is covered under the platinum warranty so cost is not a problem, just getting it diagnosed is useful.
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2001 Super Crew
2x2 4r70w transmission
417k miles
4.6l
Transmission shifting hard when under strain. My truck has 417k miles and the transmission is shifting a little hard when it is under strain. For example going up hills when in cruise and such forth, no problems otherwise.
My question is kinda weird: Since the fluid has never been changed or added to for that matter (fluid level is correct) , should I change it now or just ride it out? It is still my primary vehicle and runs perfectly!
I have been blessed with this truck since I bought it new
No engine work
Changed DPFE a couple of times
Cleaned throttle body a couple of times
Couple of pairs of shocks
one O2 sensor
alternator
I know its a weird question but could putting new fluid in at this time make more problems?
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I have a 2001 F150 Supercrew that cranks but will not start after a hard rain. The mechanic checked the gem module and the fuse box, the gem module looked good but the fuse box had some corrosion he thought from water so he replaced the fuse box and had a body shop reseal the windshield. The first time it rained it started right up but after the next rain it would not start. I went out 12 hours later and it fired right up. I wonder if I would be better off taking to a Ford dealer. What to do next.
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