Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: 2001 - Oil Pressure Gauge Dropping To Zero Intermittently?
May 19, 2015
Just recently got a sweet deal on an 01 Lariat with a very low mileage 5.4L. I almost didn't purchase it because the oil pressure gauge will not read when you start the engine. Sometimes it will sometimes not.
When it does read, it is just past half which is the normal reading. When it doesn't read, it shows zero and the light is on. The engine runs fine either way, and the previous owner said it has been that way for years. The engine has been well cared for, and has been running Mobile 1 full synthetic for most of the 80k miles. The oil was not overly dirty at purchase, so I figured it to be a loose connection. I suffer from the cold solder joints that these trucks are plaqued with, as evident by the intermittent odometer reading. Do you think the oil gauge issue is the same thing? A cold solder joint? Or should i just start with a new sender?
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Started the morning with oil pressure gauge dropping to 0, gave it a few minutes checked oil, it was fine. Restarted truck, pressure went back to normal. Drove about another 30 miles pressure gauge would drop but would rise when hit accelerator. I was driving about 60mph, gauge went back to 0, check engine light came on and within a matter of seconds, a whining noise started, pulled over before i could completely stop, it died, and now won't crank.
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'97 F150 4.6L 4wd automatic... My gauge jumps around, sometimes it works and other times it shows no pressure. Could that be the oil pump? Or is the gauge most likely bad? Whats the actual purpose of an oil sending unit?
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Been having a problem with fuel pressure dropping under acceleration intermittently. Normally runs around 65psi, sometimes at idle or normal driving is only 55-60psi lately. Most of the time it has done this it dropped to 50 and I let of the pedal and it will slowly go back to around 55. Then I just baby it and it will slowly creep back up to 60 or maybe 65. A couple times it has gone below 50 after letting of the pedal and wouldn't go back up, so I actually pulled over and shut the engine off and cycled the key to get it back up. Once this happened while towing up a hill, I could only get to around 35mph really had to baby it and at the top I pulled over and cycled the key and it came right back up. At the time I attributed it to the steep hill, 11k trailer, and the tank only being about 1/4 full.
Since I put the fuel gauge on way before any of this started happening, it has always fluctuated 2-3psi at idle. I always thought it was kind of odd, maybe pointing to combustion gasses entering the injector through a bad seal or something weird like that, but a couple of people have told me that fluctuation is normal.
I'm thinking there's either a restriction in the fuel pickup or the pump is going bad. This problem happens even when the tank is full, but seems worse on a low tank. I change my fuel filters every 10k mi, I'm at about 9k right now so I guess it could be dirty filters? Got lots of towing over the passes coming up as fishing season is just starting and I'm sure we'll be spending as many weekends we can at the beach camping.
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I changed the sending unit and replace the oil filter with a motorcraft unit and still can't get the oil gauge to read pressure. Since it is a gear oil pump I don't believe it is the pump.
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I have an 01 F150 Lariat Supercrew 4x4 with the 5.4 Triton. The truck has 222,000 miles on it. Recently, I have noticed that when I am stopped at a stop light/stop sign while in gear, the oil pressure gauge drops to zero and the light comes on. As soon as I let off the brake and give it gas, it pops back up to normal. While driving, the needle never moves and stays consistent until I stop again, and back down to zero it goes.
If I put the truck in Park, the pressure goes back to normal. Same with neutral. It seems it is hit or miss and does not do this all the time, but I just wanted to see what your thoughts are. After doing some research I am leaning towards an oil pressure sensor/sending unit.... The truck runs perfectly fine, I just want to make sure it is not something more serious.
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2002 F150, 4.6 V8, 140k miles. Oil level good, oil was changed 2 months ago.
Driving along one day, out of the blue oil pressure light comes on, oil pressure gauge went to zero.
Engine did not run hot, no bad engines noises that I can hear.
Upon restart, oil pressure will be up on the gauge for minute or so, then goes to zero and oil light comes on.
Asked around, some say oil pump, some say oil filter or pickup tube.
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My launch scanner reported a bad oil pressure switch, but I've replaced that, and when I did the oil pressure light went away, but my gauge still didn't work. Could it be a faulty switch? Or is it common for gauges to stop working on these fords seeing how there's a resistor to trick the gauge from the factory anyway? If I smack my dash the gauge will raise and lower. But I think that's normal.
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I have a 2001 F150 XL, 2WD, 4.2L, Auto at work. It will intermittently crank but not start, also, my scan tool will sometimes not connect to the truck. The only code I ever get is 1 about not being able to connect to self diagnostics. I have narrowed it down to the PCM relay in the underhood power distribution module not turning on because it SOMETIMES only sees a 2 volt turn on signal instead of 12 volts. I have replaced the ignition switch on the steering column- initially I thought that took care of it.
But as I was about to put the meter away it did it again. If I remove and reinstall the diode that is in the PDM, sometimes more than once, I can get it to turn on. Are these diodes available from any one besides Ford? The wiring diagram in my Haynes manual is very generic and does not show the circuit from the ignition switch to the fuse box. Where can I find a GOOD and complete wiring diagram for free on the net so I can print it out and take it with me to work?
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The past week or 2 I have had an intermittent starting problem. Engine is turning over but wont start, but after i wait a second it will start up. I listened to see if the fuel pump was running and heard the whine. I checked the battery and the starter voltage and it was all good. i primed the fuel pump a couple of times and it started up on the first crank of the ignition. The truck runs great when driving and idling, no misses or loss of power that i have felt or heard yet. I am thinking it is either the fuel pump is starting to go or maybe the fuel filter is getting a little clogged up. Like i said up above this is an intermittent problem and that is why I am confused. Its a 2001 F150 4.6 4X4 ....
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I have been having an intermittent (2 times in the past 2000 miles) oil pressure gauge not reading. As I own a 6.0L I understand that this is just a pressure switch in reality and if the engine was starved of oil the HPOP system would kill the engine. The first time the oil gauge went out it was raining out. The second time was after going through a carwash and getting the underbody wash. At this time my battery light also came on for a few seconds.
Both problems seemed to go away after an engine restart. Today it is snowing lightly and my battery light came on again. I happened to be monitoring the battery voltage and FICM voltage via OBD II using Torque app. At no time while the battery light was on today did the battery voltage drop below 13.5V. The FICM was also stable at 48.5+/-.5V.
As the battery voltage read by the PCM is not actually dropping and the previous oil pressure gauge and the fact that my left blinker indicator is out I am thinking I may have electrical issues with the gauge cluster. I have never had these issues while driving in dry weather. Where do I start troubleshooting this? Also I am going out of town for the next two weeks and my girlfriend was going to use the vehicle. Is it OK for her to drive?
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I have a 2001 F150 Supercrew (5.4 V8, 2WD,Auto trans) and recently when we fill the gas tank, the fuel tank doesn't go all the way up to the "full" line. Don't know if this matters but: about a year 1/2 ago in a little town (while on vacation), we broke down and the trouble was the fuel pump. The little town did have a small auto-parts store, and luckily had the fuel pump we needed. Unfortunately we didn't have much as far as tools and we wound up tearing/cutting the filler hose and the vent line.
The little auto store did not have the correct rubber filler & vent hoses for my truck and would take a few days get in stock. We changed out the entire fuel pump and sender unit, and were able to modify some rubber hoses for a new filler & vent line hose. Everything worked great for a year 1/2 but in the last few weeks we have noticed that when we fill the tank, the gas gauge does not go all the way up to the "F" line to show full. With the price of gas, it is important to know exactly how much is really in the tank. Also, is there a battery in the ceiling console for the temperature and compass? Ours just stopped working yesterday.
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2001 F350 with 5.4 ... No leaking brake lines. The bad calipers have been replaced. Brake system doesnt seem to build pressure when the truck is running. The pedal gets stiff when the truck is shut off but when its started the pedal goes to the floor. Just put in a new booster and master cylinder. Flushed and blead all the lines several times now and got all the air out and am now getting a nice solid stream of fluid.
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1999 F250 LD with 5.4 w/ 225k miles... Was running perfect yesterday when I shut the engine off. Started back up about 20 minutes later and Idles was up and down and rough.( 400 - 900 rpms) Drove and ran fine except Idle. I know that those codes are for the o2 sensors but don't believe they're bad. I hear what sounds like a vacuum leak somewhere behind throttle body. Either IAC or EGR or it could be coming from the line that runs in beside the IAC valve to the air intake in front of the throttle body. Tried spraying water in those areas with no results. Could it be a bad EGR valve or a stuck IAC valve? I have also noticed that lately when I start the engine the engine rpms go up to 2k before dropping down. Would a bad IAC valve cause such rough idling along with the codes that I described?
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I have a 2001 Ranger 4.0, 4x4 that just hit 100k and the oil pressure gauge doesn't show a reading for about 1 minute after startup. Also, the check gauge light comes on. What do I replace to fix this and is it something I can do myself? I am mildly handy. Would you worry about fixing it or just let it go because it's obviously getting oil pressure.
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OK so here is what is going on in my world. I have an '03 F-250 6.0 Crew Cab 4x4, with an Edge programmer and 4" MBRP exhaust. About 3 years and only 20,000 miles ago I changed out the HPOP, O-rings on the rails, all new O-rings on the injectors, blue spring in the fuel pump, IPR valve, EGR valve and a number of other new seals in my high pressure system. The truck has run great since then. I cleaned out my turbo about a year ago and it has been like new.
Now for the fun part. About a month ago it has been cranking a little longer when hot than it should, but not too bad. About 2 weeks ago even though it starts fine in the morning, it is just completely gutless out of the driveway until about a block away the turbo spools up strong and it runs great. It has run perfectly during this time once it is warmed up a little bit. Saturday it left me stranded in a parking lot cranking with no start. It had been sitting for about 2 hours.
I got towed home and plugged in my SGII and it shows my ICP at 345 when cranking hot. Once cold it starts up and runs great, but won't start again once hot. I changed out my IPR valve with a used one that I had on the shelf that I took out when I did my HPOP. No change. The FICM has 47 volt while cranking and 49 when just ign is on. Batteries are very strong and it has a new starter. When cranking the low oil pressure comes up on the gauge. Not sure where to start and I am frustrated. I have had this truck for 9 years and it is in great shape. It only has 138,000 miles.
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I need to install an oil pressure sensor sending unit. I've already occupied the 1/8"NPT test port on the rear of the oil cooler, where else might I be able to tap into oil pressure? (LPOP)
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I bought an Autometer 4763 gauge that didn't come with the correct fittings to plumb the sender into one of the extra ports on the back of the bowl. I went to the Ace hardware store right across the street and they didn't have anything (not surprised) and then Napa. They couldn't find a fitting to match either. He found that the plug threads are 7/16 20 tpi and the sender is 1/8" NPT. He suggested getting a 7/16 20tpi bolt, drilling it rifle-style, and then tapping it for a 1/8" NPT. The alternative, and what I ended up doing, was to use brass fittings to tee it off one of the supply lines to the heads. I ended up going that route but wanted to know if I should have looked harder for the right fitting.
Here's a pic of what I have now. I've test fit it, and it seems to work although I will need to insulate the hard lines because they rub due to the offset.
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Looking for pics of where/how they mounted their fuel pressure gauge? I'm getting ready to install one.
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Ok here is the back story over the last couple months with this late build 04 6.0 with 230,xxx miles. I had problems with it losing oil pressure at idle, which lead me to replace the hpop. After that repair the truck still wouldn't run right so i had it taken to my local shop for some diagnostics. They fixed a few electrical issues and got it running, also telling my I had 2 injectors on the way out. Due to expenses I replaced only the 2 injectors in my driveway. A few days later the ipr screen got plugged and failed. Replaced that, and changed the oil, and it ran for a week.
Now for this weeks problems. Yesterday the truck lost all power and stalled out on my wife. She pulled the codes while I was at work and this is what was listed
P0404-60===
Code: P0404 - EGR valve position control performance or range fault
P0405-60===
Code: P0405 - EGR Sensor A Circuit Low
P1335-60===
Code: P1335 - EGR Position Sensor Minimum Stop Performance
P2290-60===
Code: P2290 - ICP Too Low
Using forscan she forced the IPR 80% open and the truck would start but as soon as you try to accelerate it stalls out. Today i got the truck to start the same way. While idling the IPR was at 44% and I had about 870 psi at the icp. As soon as i would throttle up the icp would drop to around 400.
The hpop i put in a couple months ago is covered under a 1 year warranty and that's what I am leaning towards because of the plugged ipr last week. I waned to see what the great minds hear thought as well.
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Gauge/Sensor Problem ??? Great oil pressure on start up (40-60 PSI) but as car heats up, gauge SAYS pressure is dropping below 20 PSI. Dip stick says plenty of oil and filter is brand new. No knocking from valves either.
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