My 02 f150 Xl intermittently chimes 4 times while running. No door ajar light, no dome light on, no seatbelt light lit.. All these lights work as expected. What I am hearing and how to get it to stop?
View 3 Replies2003 F150 Super Crew 5.4
When I turn off the ignition, the drivers door lock unlocks or pushes the arm through the door for up to 30-60 seconds over and over again. I would say like 10 times and it is annoying as hell.
Is the only part in the door that controls this the actuator or is there something else that can be doing this?
I had been having battery issues with my 97 ford f150 4.6 liter for the longest time, thought i had a short under dash, i pulled entire dash out, disconnecting bat first of course, and inspected all wiring harness connections and fixing my issues and putting it all back together. now with new bat and all put back together i am now getting the airbag light flashing 5 times then 2 times (error code 52) i know it has some thing to do with power failure or backup battery, but now with the new battery in i cant seem to get it to reset. How to do this?
View 3 RepliesSo I recently bought a 2006 f150 XLT with a 5.4 and of course the previous owner failed to tell me that it has an annoying beeping problem. It chimes 25 times total about every 20 minutes of the truck running, I've read the owners manual and found that it could possibly have to do with the passenger air bag.
View 3 RepliesMy aunt recently gave me her 02 f150 for free because it got flooded and she didnt want to fool with it. she said it ran great before it got flooded. I flushed everything. oil, gas, and tranny. I blew water out the cylinders and replaced the spark plugs. I took the fuel injectors out and cleaned and cycled some b12 threw them. The truck starts and gets spark to every cylinder and is only running on 3. I can pull 3 plug wires off and the idle does not change. Idk what it could be but dead cylinders. I am afraid I am going to have to find a new engine. I am going to do a compression check later this week when I have time. I am new to fords so if there is anything I should check...
View 2 RepliesSometimes the truck is hard to get started and to keep running, Once it warms up it will run fine. The next time it is started it will start fine but when you are going down the road if I try to accelerate it will start backfiring and not pick up any speed. I am getting a lean code on both banks. I have changed the IAC, the throttle position sensor and mass air flow sensor. 2002 F150 with 6 cyl
View 1 Replies2002 F150 5.4 v8,,, I had troubles just over a month ago with a po305 code. i got the truck fixed with 2 new coils n some gaskets. I am having these po353 & po171 codes pop up now. The truck is running rough and I am curious to if its just another coil problem or if their is something I am overlooking or just don't know about?
View 1 RepliesThese are the code that keep spitting out. I have a 2002 f150 5.4L supercrewand it is running rough. I had this problem about 3 months back but i didnot get any codes from the computer i washed my truck a 1/2 day earlier, 2days later it went away. this time it has spit out 4 codes a po306/po307/po300/po316. the po307 and the po300 are gone, but the other two remain and it is still running rough 2days later. i had just washed my truck 30min. before, it started happening, is there water somewhere? My dad (long time mechanic) says use wire dry on the cops and it will go away. I have read other post on misfiring and I am still not sure what to do?
View 10 RepliesMy girlfriend has a 2002 F-150 with the 4.6 V8 and I was going to change the spark plugs for her. She said it started running rough and it threw a code and check engine light. She took it for a scan and they told her the number 5 plug was mis-firing. I'm fairly handy and bought a set of the recommended Motorcraft plugs from Rock Auto, AGSF32PM. It also matched the number in the owners manual so I thought I was pretty safe.
Funny thing, when I took the old ones out, they were AGSF22WM's instead. My thinking is they are a colder plug than the supposedly original equipment, but I don't think they've been changed before. They looked well used but the color was good. The truck has about 135K on it.
Long story short, and to get to the question(s), Would there be any reason the factory would have put a different plug in the engine than what is listed? Am I asking for trouble going with a hotter plug than what's been in there (pinging or timing retardation/loss of power)? Am I just overthinking the whole thing and need to put it back together and drive it?
This truck has been running fine then as my son was getting off the interstate it started acting like it was running out of gas then died. I went to tow him in and it cranked right up and never had another problem for a week. Yesterday he drove 80 miles away when the same thing happened shortly after he got off the interstate. He replaced the fuel filter which it probably needed but still won't start and stay running. It cranks right up the immediately dies.
First time this happened it was throwing codes PO171 and PO174. Now it is not showing any DTC's at all and none pending. We see no frayed or bad wires and all vacuum hoses seem fine. He cleaned the MAF with no change in behavior.... If it were an outboard motor or some kind of boat I'd say the problem is in the ignition switch except it does run a very short time before dying. If I immediately try to restart it won't stay running. If I let it sit for a while then it will run for about a half minute.
I thought my brakes were sticking........don't think thats the issue. My rear end bounces....you can see it, and its only certain times...mostly when its hot, or I've been driving for a while (an hour maybe)
I have been taking notes on the symptoms, and finally got some noise today. When the rear end starts to hop it sounds like you are riding on rims and it will actually slow the truck down if you let off the gas.
The brakes aren't hot beyond reason, and I've noticed that it occurs mostly after making a sharp turn???? Or a fast medium turn such as a quick merge.
I think something is either coming loose in the rear or ?????? Not sure Also, when I pull my camper I haven't had it happen yet.......may be a coincidence.....? Or the fact that I take turns slower when its attached.
My digital odometer is funky! Sometimes time it works sometimes it doesn't. Sometimes it works on start up than after a lil while it fades out.
View 7 RepliesIt started sputtering at random times a few days ago and the check engine light came on. The two codes are p0401 (blocked egr system) and p0402 (egr valve stuck open). It seems to do it most when it's cold but some days it'll do it non stop.
View 1 RepliesMy 2002 f350 7.3 was given to me in July of this past year. I was 15 at the time and I was told that it was hydrolocked. Funny enough this is where I came to learn how to fix it, and this is the first time I have had to ask a question . I pulled both heads and replaced all 8 injector cups, I also had the heads re surfaced and had 7 injectors rebuilt and 1 replaced. I got it on the road in February around the 20th and since then I have put about 300 miles on it. Today I stopped at a red light and made a left turn and as I went to accelerate the truck jolted forward a few times and it felt like a tire was going to fall off while accelerating(only to 30mph). I pulled into a driveway to check all the tires, then I turned around and my foot was hard to the floor and the truck wouldn't go over 15. Diddn't smoke when it first happened, but after getting it off of a flatbed I turned it around and it hardly had enough power to get up my driveway. And I noticed it was pushing a steady stream of white smoke, the oil is clean and the oil cap doesn't get blown off at idle when I set it upside down on the valve cover.
View 14 RepliesMy blinkers started off blinking a few times then stopped working, now they don't work at all. The fuse says it goes to the brake lamps, hazards and turn signals. The hazards work as well as the brake lamps. I found the relay/flasher box and it appears the relay and flasher is the same for both the turn signals and the hazards. I checked for the wire/connector problem in the column and all looks good there. When I activate the turn signal lever I feel one click in the relay/flasher which leads me to believe the turn signal switch is working. I went ahead and replaced the relay with no results. Is the flasher internals the same for both the hazards and the turn signals or is there two independent sections inside for each?
View 4 RepliesI am still trying to debug my 7.3 running sluggish in the 1200-1800 rpm range. The problem is intermittent. I checked the wiring harness under the valve covers to verify they are plugged in and there are no opens in the circuit. I replaced the crankshaft position sensor and the high pressure oil sensor.
This will run fine one time and a few miles down the road it will chug and smoke out the exhaust until I either get into the accelerator or back off and re press the accelerator. Again, it does it intermittently hot or cold.
I ran both a cylinder contribution test and perdels with a Snap On Verus. The cct passes everytime. The perdels have a couple of cylinders 5-6 and 8 fluctuate between 0 and 1.80% with #8 up to 2.5%.
My question is. Do the cylinders in the test correspond to the actual cylinders in the engine? Reason I am asking is the Verus does not follow the firing order on a gas engine. The cct is in order of 1-8 and I have to correlate the cct order to the firing order. Found this out the hard way when I had a bat cop on a 5.4 and replaced it only to have the same cylinder still show not firing.
I got out the graph leads and tested the cylinder and pulled the injector thinking it was bad. Everything showed good but the cct still showed it not firing. I had to unplug each coil and watch the cct to determine what the true cylinder in the test was. It turned out to mimic the firing order so I am asking out of concern that cylinder 3 in the perdels is really cylinder 3 or a different cylinder.
Btw, the perdels all show 0% if the transmission is in drive. I would have thought that a load on the engine would have showed higher perdel percentages with a load on it.
1998 F150 XLT 4x4 4.6L Auto.
Bought this truck two months ago, the lot had the engine rebuilt due to bad bearings, so fresh motor. They forgot to recharge the AC, so I had them charge it when I purchased it. It blew icy cold every things until a few weeks ago. It wouldn't work, then randomly it would, then it would quit, etc. Today it's 97 and I had it on with my kids in the truck, hot air.
I tried turning it off and on, still hot.
I tried seeing if the temperature was stuck and moved it to hot, it got sweltering hot, back to cold, just warm air. There is no difference between vent and max AC.
I went to the store, picked up a refrigerant filler with gauge and a can of R-134. I hooked it to the low end of the system and was surprised that my pressure was about 60PSI. Great, they over filled it at the dealership. I released the pressure down to 40psi and checked, sill hot. I figured maybe something was weird and they might have mixed good refrigerant with bad and that's why it was intermittent.
I released all the pressure down to 0 PSI. I then put on the can of R-134 and filled it to spec. Sill hot air. I removed the harness from the pressure switch and jumped it, getting sparks when I connect the wire, so it's connecting, but still hot air, probably not the switch.
What's going on here? Could they have over filled it and killed the system or something? What is likely broken here? My heater works like a champ, my AC just blows environment temperature air.
Pulled inside fuses one at a time and it seems to be #15 I hear a clicking sound coming from drivers door and have the fuse pulled for the battery saver relay when hearing it . My test light is dim then pulses when I close the driver's door?
View 6 RepliesSeveral months ago, my truck begins having starting issues. Intermittently, the truck will not start, even though it cranks fine. I have done the following:
- checked inertia fuel switch. Okay.
- checked connections under hood for corrosion. Okay.
- checked fuses & start relay. Also swapped relays with no luck fixing the problem.
- sprayed water at various locations under the hood and bed, since the problem occurs more often when raining. No luck stressing the problem.
- changed fuel filter a couple weeks ago. No luck fixing the problem.
- changed battery over the winter (due to my 8 year old battery was becoming weak). No luck fixing the intermittent starting problem.
- changed the starter a month ago (since the truck stopped cranking). No luck fixing the intermittent starting problem.
- Installed a fuel pressure gauge on the fuel rail.
- Tried banging on the fuel tank with a rubber mallet. No luck fixing the intermittent starting issue.
When the truck refuses to start, the fuel pressure reads 0. Sometimes I can wait 5-10 minutes, and it will start. The truck runs fine after starting.
Sometimes waiting 5-10 minutes will not solve the problem (fuel pressure remains 0). Then, I hook my battery charger to the battery, and the voltage climbs from ~12.5V to 14.7V. The fuel pressure climbs to 30, and the truck starts.
I'm apprehensive to change the fuel pump, since it seems like more an electrical problem than a pump problem. Any diagnostic test that will tell the true problem source?
200 F150 5.4L Triton, 164K rounds. My odometer has been going on and off intermittently since I bought the truck 4 months ago, no big deal. This morning, though, I started the truck to go to work and my oil pressure gauge was at zero. There wasn't any noise coming from the motor aside from the very slight bottom end knock it had when I bought it, so I figured it's the sending unit. I shut the truck off and started it back up a few times to be sure, and the oil pressure sending unit started working. But THEN my 4X4 engaged. The dial on the dash was in the 2WD position, but the 4X4 was definitely engaged. It wouldn't engage when I first bought the truck without swapping the vacuum hoses under the hood, and now it's doing it on its' own.
View 1 RepliesOwn a 1997 F-150, 4.6 L, 4 x 4. I know it's old but it's in very good body shape, has been undercoated for years. I've only had it for a year. This summer it began to not start (intermittently). The dash lights all come on but the starter will not engage. Brought to my local garage, he changed the starter and the ground cable from the battery.
Was ok for a few months and now it's beginning to do the same thing. Brought it back to him, can't find anything. He did say that the battery is a bit weak, the terminals are spotless (I keep them spotless, coat them with white grease). I measured the voltage with the engine stopped and with it running. Stopped, the voltage is 11.94, running it is 14.87. This clearly shows that the battery is weak.
My question is would this cause the starter to not engage after 4 or 5 turns of the key and then on the 6th try, the starter turns over? I don't want to spend more money ($ 450) the last time and have the same result. If it's possible it's the battery, I'll replace it no problem.