Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: AC Seems To Get Cooler At Higher RPMs


Jun 1, 2014

My ac seems to get cooler at higher rpms. I looked online and it appears to be the orifice tube...

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Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2003 - Missing At Higher RPMs?

I have a 03 F250SD with ~145,000 miles on the 5.4L. Just recently I have been having what seems to be a miss, or possibly a dead cylinder. I thought it might be a dirty MAF, but I cleaned it and have the same problem. The miss is more noticeable at the higher RPMs. I am checking the plugs today. So any solution? I refuse to take her to the shop and having another man up in her manifold.

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Ford Wiring/Electrical :: 1995 F150 - Chirp And Shudder At Low RPMs / Squeal And Vibrate At Higher RPMs

Ok, I have a 95 F150 5.0. It's sat for 6 months with the engine taken apart. I just finished putting everything back together with a new alternator. Well, I pulled a bone-head move and forgot to connect the harness when I fired the truck up. Other than not charging though, it ran fine. When I connected the harness, it began to chirp and shudder at low RPMs and squeal and vibrate at higher RPMs and it over heated VERY QUICKLY.

So hot the case was too hot to touch and the pulley smoked the belt. The engine didn't even have time to get up to operating temperature. I've had the alternator replaced twice, and this last one tested good putting out 14.5 volts. The work I did on the engine was to replace the valve springs, install a direct drive timing gear, replace a spun harmonic balancer, bypass the smog pump because it froze up, new distributor, a new ECU and O2 sensor.

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Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: By Passing The Tranny Cooler On Radiator?

I have an 03 f150 supercrew that had a 4.6L. I am installing a 3.9 Cummins diesel. I will have a separately mounted transmission cooler. I'm using the stock radiator as these engines run cool. It has a transmission cooler built into it. If i just leave the fitting loose, will it cause me any problems. It is a plastic can on each end and i suppose it to have contact with the radiator passages.

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Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: Lower Transmission Oil Cooler Line Is Leaking

Transmission oil cooler line, lower one, is leaking. I think to use pvf, black ones, brake line instead of new transmission oil cooler line. I did replaced upper one with new transmission oil cooler line before a few years and it is rusty already as those line are only zinc plated as opposed to plastified brake lines.

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Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: Transmission Cooler To Replace The Small Stock One?

Is it suggested for transmission cooler to replace the small stock one? I'm going to get towing stuff soon and just want to make sure I'm not smoking my trans. There's a few I've seen....

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Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: 2002 - Power Steering Cooler Line Leaking

I have 2002 F150 5.4L gas 4X4 Lariat FX4. Last winter when it got to -30C here in Manitoba one of the lines near the power steering cooler began to leak. I had just bought this truck and upon investigating found that the original line had been replaced and reattached with hose clamps. I had this "farmer fix" redone but then this winter when it hit -30C it blew apart. Obviously something happened to this line before I got it, so I am curious if there is an issue with these power steering cooler lines when it gets really cold. Should I just get factory lines installed and hope for the best?

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Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: 1999 - Transmission Cooler - Trans Fluid Dark?

I pull a 23 ft travel trailer with my 99 f150 4.6l and so I decided I needed a trans cooler just to be safe towing in the dead of summer. I got a few quotes for right under 300. I couldn't justify the labor cost considering the cooler was under 100. So I made up my mind and decided to do it myself. I watched a bunch of videos for other makes and models but couldn't find nothing on my particular model year truck. I finished it today and I realized that my transmission fluid fluid is very dark. I have never serviced the transmission ever not even a drain and refill. I am going on my trip in about 7 days, and was wondering if I should even mess with anything to do with the transmission fluid. I put about a half quart of new fluid to top it off after the install of the transcooler but now I am worried that my transmission may not be in the best shape. Truck shifts fine as far as I concerned and acceleration is ok, so I am hesitant to do anything to it.

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Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: 2001 F350 - Leak In Inter-Cooler System

I have a leak in my inter-cooler system. I have replaced all the hoses. Is there a reason I should not pressure test the system with 20psi? 2001 F350 7.3 turbo....

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Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: Higher Idle When AC Compressor Kicks In

Sunday afternoon I noticed my 97 F-150 4.2 5-Speed manual had a higher idle. When the AC compressor kicks in, the motor revs up higher than normal for about 4 secs then comes down a little. If you barely press the accelerator, I mean just gently touch it, the motor revs up for 4 secs. Dont have a tach, but just idling in neutral, is about 150 rpms more, and when AC compressor kicks in, rpms jump about 300 rpms i assume. Maybe vacuum, IAC??? Plugs, wires, and normal tune up done about 2400 miles ago.

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Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: Truck Sat Higher In Front End And Caster / Camber Way Out

ok, I have an 02 f-150 4x4 that I did the brakes, shocks, and inner and outer tie rod ends. When I was done, the truck sat higher in the front end and the caster/camber was way out. bottom of tire sits way in. Is this just and adjustment to the tie rods, or what. The old rod ends were pretty bad. Could this be the result of an alignment tech setting caster way out to account for the bad ball joints?

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Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: 2002 - Front Seats Higher Than Rear - Remove Coil Spacers?

I have an 02 f150 2WD with a "leveling" kit. It was on the truck when I bought it. However, the front sets noticeably higher than the rear. The rear has lifting blocks, while the front has the lifted spindles as well as the coil spring spacers. At least I think they are spacers. I had to replace lower control arm bushings a while back, and there were black plastic rings on top of the springs. Can I remove the spacers? If I can, I plan on doing that and replacing the rear blocks with whatever I need to get the stance back. I like the height of the truck now, just hate the front being higher than the rear. I do pull my boat with it.

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Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: RPMs Drop To 330 While Braking

Two weeks ago Sun, truck ran fine, however Mon morning all hell broke loose. Truck was running very sluggish and stalling while coming to a stop. My first thought was tune up. I replaced the plugs and wires. During this I found that i could not get a socket around the ever loved driver side rear plug so i was only able to replace 7 plugs however in that process i managed to break the metal coolant tube that runs to the heater core.

Aday later replaced the entire intake manifold,egr valve, egr tube, IAC valve, both coil packs, fuel filter, tranny fluid and filter. During the removal of the intake i looked at the rear spark plug and found that a screw had been wedged into the hole breaking the plug and got it changed now it is all back together and the truck runs amazing however did not solve the low rpms during stopping. ive replace the above and checked fuel pressure which is good.

I have a TPS sensor just haven't installed it yet not sure if it is related to the issue. Tranny guy says it may be a bad solenoid or TC however last night I reset the PCM and drove it it ran flawless. this morning the problem returned which leads me to believe its not the tranny. ok one last kicker that 6 experts have failed to answer when i manually put the truck into 2nd gear the engine dies! no studder no fighting just quits.

Truck is a 98 F150 4.6 V8 186,000 miles i have yet to

1) change TPS.
2) clean throttle body.
3) clean MAF sensor. n

Not sure if any of this has an effect on the issue. There is only a EGR insufficient Air flow code..

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Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: Battery Light On At Low RPMs

My 97 with a 4.6 has had some charging issues. It started when I left a trailer hooked up with dome lights on (ignition to the on position, not running, for the trailer hot circuit) and it drained the battery. I boosted it to move it and put the charger on it. It ran fine till the other night (a week later) and on the road the CEL light came on. I didn't get another mile till the lights dimmed and the dash lights went out and the radio started flashing. I turned off the radio and heater to get home (another 2 miles). On the rest of the way it would drop to 8volts then up to 13-14 and the headlights would get bright. Then it would drop back down.

The whole time the battery lamp in the cluster never came on (forgot there was one). I pulled the alternator and took it in to have it tested. They said it tested fine. I re-installed it and fired the truck up and the battery lamp would fade in and out. I put a charger on the battery again overnight and now when it runs the battery lamp only comes on at idle and goes off when I increase the RPMS past about 1,400.

Is it possible that the alternator is going bad and the tester was running it at high enough RPMs to generate proper output?

I made sure to check the wires on the connectors going to the alternator when I re-installed it and made sure there was enough tension on the connectors before putting them on the pins. I've also thoroughly cleaned the battery clamps and inspected the wires at that point for corrosion. I haven't traced it back. If it is related at all, I had it in a few weeks ago for tires so I had an oil change done and they replaced the serp belt. Should I have it tested elsewhere, should I start tracing wires for corrosion?

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Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: Vacuum Leak / Bank 1 Is Slightly Higher Than Bank 2

I am in the process of trying to chase down a vacuum leak on my 2003 F150 with the 5.4. I have checked all lines and cannot find it. I decided to check the long term fuel trim and noticed that my bank 1 is slightly higher than bank 2 (screenshot attached). Is this enough to assume the leak is on the bank 1 side?

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Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: Misfire Under Load At 40 - 60 MPH While In OD Or At Higher RPMs At WOT

I have a 2006 Ford F150, king ranch, 4x4, super crew 135k miles. I bought the truck and shortly after noticed the miss under a load at 40-60 mph while in OD, or at higher RPMs at WOT, but never a CEL. Well 3 months went by and I couldn't take it anymore so with lots of research I decided to change the plugs. Ran seafoam through 2 tanks of fuel prior to this job to break up the carbon in hopes of none of the plugs breaking.

All 8 plugs came out with no issue and I replaced them with the Motocraft SP 515s (old ones were very nasty and brittle, most likely the original). I put copper anti seize on the end that goes through the channel in the head, however none got on the end near the electrode, and also on the threads. Put it all back together and it had the worse misfire an pretty much not drivable....flashing CEL and codes p0308, p0355, p0356. So I decided to buy 8 new coils as well, got all 8 of them on and now the truck is drivable but the miss is still there (no CEL).

Feels like maybe just one cylinder and I believe I got it pin pointed to cylinder 8. I put a vacuum gauge on it and unplugged the injectors 1 at a time and cylinder 8 is the only one that there is no change while unplugged. So I switched out the coil thinking maybe I got a bad one, still does it. My COP electrical plug has 12v Constant and also confirmed with an led it is getting signal. The injector is ticking or pulsing as i confirmed with a mechanic stethoscope. What am I missing????? Today when I get off I plan pulling the spark plug, checking for carbon tracking, check compression, check actual visual spark, and pull and clean the injector.

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Ford - Explorer :: 2002 - Overheating Especially Going Uphill When RPMs Are Higher

Problems overheating. Have replaced thermostat and the housing for it...fan clutch and water pump. Its still overheating especially going uphill when RPM's are higher. How can I check to see if there is a radiator blockage?

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Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: Will Not Shift From 1st To 2nd / Revs Up To 3200 RPMs

I have a 98 F-150 that just went under a trans rebuild. It now will NOT shift from 1st to 2nd. It revs up to 3200rpm's, shifts to 2nd then chirps the tires as it immediately slams back to 1st. Is it possibly a solenoid issue? Looking for some useful info.

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Ford - Explorer :: 2008 V6 - Erratic / Jumping Idle While At Higher RPMs

My wifes 2008 Eddie Bauer Explorer V-6 recently started having an erratic idle and we've started noticing it while at higher RPM's. Its almost as if there is a cylinder that misfires but no engine light is coming on. The car stumbles like it is going to start to die, then the idle jumps up and smooths out. A little while later it does the same thing. The car has I think 74,000 miles on it and has never had the plugs or wires changed. I change out the fuel filter roughly every 24,000 miles and did it recently in the spring. Any places where I should start looking? Could a misfire not trigger the check engine light?

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Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: Rough Idle / Engine RPMs Go Up To 2k Before Dropping Down

1999 F250 LD with 5.4 w/ 225k miles... Was running perfect yesterday when I shut the engine off. Started back up about 20 minutes later and Idles was up and down and rough.( 400 - 900 rpms) Drove and ran fine except Idle. I know that those codes are for the o2 sensors but don't believe they're bad. I hear what sounds like a vacuum leak somewhere behind throttle body. Either IAC or EGR or it could be coming from the line that runs in beside the IAC valve to the air intake in front of the throttle body. Tried spraying water in those areas with no results. Could it be a bad EGR valve or a stuck IAC valve? I have also noticed that lately when I start the engine the engine rpms go up to 2k before dropping down. Would a bad IAC valve cause such rough idling along with the codes that I described?

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Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: 1998 - RPMs Speed Up After Shifts Into Drive?

I have a 98 F150 4x4. I had some trans trouble so I pulled it out and had it rebuilt. Now when it shifts into drive the rpms speed up right before it shifts. What is causing the trans to do this? It doesn't do it all the time, only if I take off faster the usual which is most of the time.

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