Ford Wiring/Electrical :: 1995 F150 - Chirp And Shudder At Low RPMs / Squeal And Vibrate At Higher RPMs
Dec 9, 2013
Ok, I have a 95 F150 5.0. It's sat for 6 months with the engine taken apart. I just finished putting everything back together with a new alternator. Well, I pulled a bone-head move and forgot to connect the harness when I fired the truck up. Other than not charging though, it ran fine. When I connected the harness, it began to chirp and shudder at low RPMs and squeal and vibrate at higher RPMs and it over heated VERY QUICKLY.
So hot the case was too hot to touch and the pulley smoked the belt. The engine didn't even have time to get up to operating temperature. I've had the alternator replaced twice, and this last one tested good putting out 14.5 volts. The work I did on the engine was to replace the valve springs, install a direct drive timing gear, replace a spun harmonic balancer, bypass the smog pump because it froze up, new distributor, a new ECU and O2 sensor.
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Here's the breakdown. I have a '95 Ford F150 that I bought the previous year and it has been nothing but a problem. The most recent problem is the attempt to turn on the headlights. I will pull the plunger to turn on the headlights but I will only get the parking lights and when attempting to turn on the high beams I still get nothing. The only way that I get any sort of lighting is if I pull on the turning stick (almost like doing a manual override on a tripped wall plugin). Now here's the kicker. I still have parking lights, brake, tail, cab, and dash lights. Winter in quickly approaching and the nights are already getting dark, pretty soon the days will be just as dark.
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After replacing my battery cables (Pos and Ground),My Truck stalls every time I turn on the headlights. The truck stays running with the parking lights on or if no lights on at all. Could I have mixed up the 2 positive accessory wires?
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The red wire coming from my fire wall is not connected to anything and I need to find what it is supposed to connect too it come out of my firewall near my steering column ... This is and 95 f150 with a 302 engine ...
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I recently purchased a 95 F150 regular cab. The door jamb switch on the drivers side was broken. I removed the inside kick panel and found the switch badly burned and the wiring also burned. I purchased a new switch and found the socket with wires at LMC. The question is where do the wires go? Can I splice them in somewhere?
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Looking for a wiring diagram for a F-150 XLT LARIAT 5.8L 4BBL, all the books I have looked at show the wiring for this year with fuel injection and this truck came with a 351W with a Holley 600 4BBL, I have a few wire's in the engine compartment that melted away all the insulation, they are located close to where the harness passes the firewall before the ignition module. Is this a common problem on old models ?. Need a clear copy of the correct diagram for a f-150 1987 with carburetor, how I can get a copy so I can fix this problem before it gets worse.
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I have been experiencing a strange sort of loud induction/air turbulence/chirp noise right when I begin to apply the throttle at 750-1000 RPMs. It's the type of induction noise you would expect to hear from a car with an open filter intake if you shifted into 6th gear at very low speed(bogging, chirpy noise) Only been happening for a week.
I have an APR intake, and my initial thought was that maybe the tone of the intake had changed a little since it has gotten colder....but you actually cannot even hear the noise under the hood, let alone near the intake. It is only noticeable from inside the cabin. It happens regardless of clutch engagement and a/c. Car drives fine other than that.
It started happening with the soundaktor unplugged. I actually plugged it back in since then in hopes that it might mask the noise.
Video (GTI 6MT)
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My beloved 1995 Dodge Ram Van has intermittent dash panel electrical issues. The gas gauge an speedometer are intermittent, coupled with lights and radio on off too. It It all started when I had the transition services years ago. It has less than 100k mileage.
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My ac seems to get cooler at higher rpms. I looked online and it appears to be the orifice tube...
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When my 1989 Bronco II has about a quarter tank of gas left, it begins to "shudder" and lose about 500 rpms while I've got my foot on the gas. It will shudder and lose power for a second or two, then run fine for a minute or so, then do the shuddering stuff again. It'll do this all the way to the gas station. But with the tank full (or even half full) the shuddering stuff is gone as I drive out the gas station.
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I have a 2006 Ford F150, king ranch, 4x4, super crew 135k miles. I bought the truck and shortly after noticed the miss under a load at 40-60 mph while in OD, or at higher RPMs at WOT, but never a CEL. Well 3 months went by and I couldn't take it anymore so with lots of research I decided to change the plugs. Ran seafoam through 2 tanks of fuel prior to this job to break up the carbon in hopes of none of the plugs breaking.
All 8 plugs came out with no issue and I replaced them with the Motocraft SP 515s (old ones were very nasty and brittle, most likely the original). I put copper anti seize on the end that goes through the channel in the head, however none got on the end near the electrode, and also on the threads. Put it all back together and it had the worse misfire an pretty much not drivable....flashing CEL and codes p0308, p0355, p0356. So I decided to buy 8 new coils as well, got all 8 of them on and now the truck is drivable but the miss is still there (no CEL).
Feels like maybe just one cylinder and I believe I got it pin pointed to cylinder 8. I put a vacuum gauge on it and unplugged the injectors 1 at a time and cylinder 8 is the only one that there is no change while unplugged. So I switched out the coil thinking maybe I got a bad one, still does it. My COP electrical plug has 12v Constant and also confirmed with an led it is getting signal. The injector is ticking or pulsing as i confirmed with a mechanic stethoscope. What am I missing????? Today when I get off I plan pulling the spark plug, checking for carbon tracking, check compression, check actual visual spark, and pull and clean the injector.
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Problems overheating. Have replaced thermostat and the housing for it...fan clutch and water pump. Its still overheating especially going uphill when RPM's are higher. How can I check to see if there is a radiator blockage?
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I got my first truck today and it's a 1988 Ford F-150 and it runs great! The only issue is that the speedometer doesn't work and I won't be able to register it until it does. I was wondering what I can try out to maybe fix the issue and if not, how I would replace it. Every other gauge works, it's just the speedometer that isn't. The needle doesn't move at all it just sits at a 0 all the time.
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I have been trying everything to get my speedo working on my Ford. It didn't work for 3 months after I got it then I decided to put some gear oil on the cable. This made it work for about 200 miles then it would only work with the clutch in and then not at all. I've replaced the speed sensor(not one on rear end the thing the cable goes into), and the gear that goes on the end of it. If I hook a drill up to the cable the tach moves. Could the cable be stretched or just needs some speedo cable lube?
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I have a 1999 Ford F150 6 cyl. 4.2, 2 WD with 160,000 miles. Replaced the battery May 2010.
Today battery light came on. Battery gauge did not look like it was discharging. Had battery checked they said it was a little low but OK. Then they continued test and tried to check alternator, test stopped and they said something wrong with alternator most likely.
I took alternator out and had it bench tested. They said it was OK, putting out 98 amp on 95 amp alternator. They said check wires, grounds, harness, connections. Checked connections and wires as much as possible, reinstalled alternator, light still on.
Have not checked fuses yet. Was told to start vehicle, disconnect positive battery cable and if engine continued to run alternator was good, if cut off alternator was bad and to replace. Should I try this and is it true?
What is the part on the fire wall that is between the alternator and the battery that the wire connection runs through? Can it be bench tested/checked?
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My wifes 2008 Eddie Bauer Explorer V-6 recently started having an erratic idle and we've started noticing it while at higher RPM's. Its almost as if there is a cylinder that misfires but no engine light is coming on. The car stumbles like it is going to start to die, then the idle jumps up and smooths out. A little while later it does the same thing. The car has I think 74,000 miles on it and has never had the plugs or wires changed. I change out the fuel filter roughly every 24,000 miles and did it recently in the spring. Any places where I should start looking? Could a misfire not trigger the check engine light?
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My center brake light went out a month ago. Thought it was the bulb so replaced that, still didn't work. Checked the fuse and its not broken so my guess was electrical?
Hasn't come on once that I know of but I was randomly walking behind my truck and the light was on. Truck was off lights were off and key wasn't in the ignition.
Went and turned my truck on and turned the lights on and the cbl stayed on. When I switched my lights off it went out and stayed out.
Now I'm definitely thinking wiring but not sure where to start fixing?
Oh and it's a 1990 F150 XLT
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Just bought a used, 03 F-150 SuperCrew Lariat. Having some minor electrical issues. While cleaning truck, I discovered a red wire coming into engine area on passenger side of vehicle. Wire has a built in 40amp fuse but isn't connected to anything. What this is for/ should be connected to???
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My '84 F150 4X4 inline 6 Died last night while driving. just conked out and died right there on the spot. no sputter... no gasping... just instant death...
after some investigation i found i wasn't getting spark anywhere. not at the plugs, not at coil. I have replaced the ignition module to no avail. still no spark I am going to swap in a the coil tonight. sure do hope this works.
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I have an 01' f150 that everything is going out on. I've replaced the GEM module thinking that's what it was to no avail. First thing to go was all four windows which have currently been stuck halfway down for 2 weeks. It's stalling out during idle like it isn't getting enough fuel to it. Brake and engine light on dash are staying on. Radio, interior lights won't come on. Will not come out of park once in. I have to do the old forward, back, middle key trick to get it out of park into neutral so I can start it and go. I've also checked all fuses and relays under dash and under Hood.
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I have a 2006 f150. Both front turn signals do not work. I replaced bulbs still nothing. There back signals do work. They blink really fast.
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