I changed the rear end on my buddies 2003 f150 and now the speedometer is 15 mph fast I was wondering if there is a way for me to calibrate the speedometer..
View 1 RepliesMy '99 F150 is having wiring issues. It started with a left flasher being fast and the rear bulb not working. I put in new bulb and that didn't fix it. Then I realized that I also had no tail lights. The reverse lights are good and the brake lights work too.
So far I have searched for and repaired suspicious splices done by PO, added a ground wire that was cut off from the trailer wiring harness, checked every fuse that I could with an ohmmeter and I pulled the multi function switch and tested it with an ohmmeter also. It tested fine but I did find one of the female pin connectors had pulled out of the harness. I managed to get it back in and seemed to click into place alright. Somewhere over the course of all that I now have both sides of my flashers fast and still no tail lights. Good news is that I haven't broken my brake lights or reverse lights yet.
Could I have a bad flasher relay? Earlier in the process I did have my 4 way flashers working correctly and a couple times I even had the turn signals going. Now, none of the rear blinking lights work but the front ones go 90 to nothing and I still have no tail lights. My truck does have the auto lamp thing.
Is there any way the front blower can be wired to run or spin FASTER? The rear blower in my 1997 spins fast enough but the front could use a 5th speed. I have interchanged blowers and Resistors from rear to front, but no change, both resistors and blowers are identical. I remember one time a residential a/c tech showed me how to rewire the air handler blower in my apt. to make it run faster and the result was amazing, though he did explain the life of the blower would be shortened, I never had any problem. Does the same principle apply to a 12V automotive blower?
View 14 RepliesI have a 97 F150XL 4x4 a few days ago i was driving and i started to lose power i had to take it out of overdrive just to maintain 60mph by the end of the day it took a good 45 seconds to a full minute to get up to 10 mph. I have been told it is the catalytic converter, anything that would cause this it has a lope when stopped at a light but is fine when in park it acts like its flooding when I take off from a stop but the faster I go after taking off the flooding feel goes away and just seems like a lack of power. That morning i put on a EGR vacuum solenoid and an o2 sensor...
View 14 RepliesSo I noticed this is a common problem in several scenarios. Some are electric failures and key failures and computer failures....And other times they happen when you switch the cluster.
I had a blacked out cluster with a couple broken gauges and after spending an hour swapping the cluster I get a crank but no start. I tried switching the 301 and 304 fuses (fuel pump and PCM) as that was mentioned somewhere online but it did nothing. Any quick fixes or do I need to tow it to a dealership?
2001 Supercrew with 4.6L and 4x4
A few years ago I had the clutch changed on my 1997 F150. Afterwards the cruise control wasn't working. When I brought the truck back to the repair shop I heard the manager tell the mechanic to "attach the clip by the pedal" and that fixed it.
I just had some work done, had to replace the oil pan, and the mechanic had to remove the transmission. Now the cruise control doesn't work. I changed the Pressure switch but it didn't fix the cruise control. What that clip might be that fixed the cruise control last time?
My alarm and lights started going off one night. By the time I got to it, everything stopped. When I tried to start the next morning, I got nothing. After several tries, horn and lights started again. The only way to stop it was to disconnect battery.
One person told me that it was the key or the ignition not recognizing the key. I was then told that my truck, 97 f150, had no chip in the key so the problem was the computer.
I replaced my computer with a refurbished one. Once I hooked up the battery, the horn was still going, lights flashing and theft light still blinking. Also, not sure if its related, but when I try to use the key in the passenger door it turns, but there is very little resistance and the door does not unlock.
1997 F150
4.6L V8
4x4
6" Fabtech Lift
235,000 Miles
I bought a 1998 F250 5.4 XLT, 4x4, automatic gear shifting, electric 4x4 HI/LO switch. I'm living up on a hill and when I drove back home last time there was snow and I had to use 4x4 all the way up back home. 4x4 worked fine. I parked the truck and switched of 4x4.
But when I started the truck next time and switched in a gear the 4x4 dash light started blinking. But different to many post I read so far the 4x4 dash light is not just blinking 6 times every 2 minutes, it is blinking constantly very fast (double time of flasher) as soon as I switch in a gear, even without moving the car. The dash light is blinking regardingless to the position of the 4x4 switch. I realized that interior lamp is flashing in same rythm as the 4x4 dash light.
When I shift from 2HI to 4HI 4WD does not engage but it sounds like shift motor on transfer case is doing something. When I switch to 4LO 4WD does not engage either but the gear reduction works. I noticed that when I drive downhill and put on brakes the 4x4 dash light stops blinking for short.
What might be the problem?
What I tested so far:
- All fuses (under dash and under hood) are okay
- Relays under the hood (they switch when I connect them to 12V)
- Switched heating mode selector to panel. Air comes out of panel. Then switched on 4x4 and air comes still out of panel. Not switching to window. So vacuum pump system should be okay as well, right?
- disconnected car battery for a while. Reconnected, started engine, put in a gear and 4x4 dash light was NOT blinking any more. But as soon as I drove a few meters it started blinking again.
- When I drive the speed indicator works as well. So shouldn't be the rear speed sensor, right?
What else can I test?
All of a sudden wouldn't start Saturday morning. Turns over fast. No fire. Waited a while and tried again and it started and ran fine. It did it again Saturday afternoon, so I changed the fuel filter. Gas from filter was very dirty. Still did it after filter change, so I replaced the fuel pump relay. Still did it twice on Sunday. Once it starts, it runs perfectly. Drove it 200 miles without a problem until I killed it. Then it wouldn't start.
View 9 Replies1998 F150 ....Left signal lights flash supper fast or not at all but if I pull the arm down (for left side again) but stop before it clicks in place, signal lights work normal. 4 ways work good; right side works good 95% of the time; all bulbs are good. So like Spotty suggested it's the signal arm switch? Does that sound right? Many years ago I changed it twice in my old Ford Taurus; twice because I was buying used from a wrecker.
View 6 RepliesI have an 03 f150 5.4, it runs fine, shifts fine and will get up to speed. I can go over 40 but the speedo will only work until i get to 40 and then it just stays there. My rpm guage seems to be working fine. I thought it might be the speed sensor/output sensor on the trans but it shifts fine so I dunno anymore?
View 8 RepliesI put a re manufactured alternator in my 2000 f150 with the 5.4 liter. Now all the lights flicker, go dim and then come back on bright again. I noticed when the lights dim, the heater fan speed also drops. The light flickering is constant and bad enough, that I can notice it in daylight also with the headlights on. It is really noticeable at night with the truck in drive (or any gear for that matter) sitting at a stop sign or sitting still in my driveway. I changed out the old alternator because it was making a loud chattering noise. I didn't have any trouble with the lights or fan with the old alternator. Why doesn't the battery volt gauge in my instrument cluster fluctuate all the time while it is doing this? It reads in the normal range all the time and doesn't move. The flickering lights are also noticeable at highway speeds, its just not as bad.
View 2 RepliesLeft the truck sitting for a couple of months while working out of town. I bought this truck used with only 1 key. We rebuilt the engine and had noise issues so we don't want to drive it much until this is resolved. I went out to start the truck to move it and it would not start. It had cranked right up the week before. Now it just spins over and the theft light blinks rapidly. I've check all the door locks.
When I called a Ford dealership all the service guy would tell me is that it's going to have a new key made and I have to have the title on the truck to get it done. AND, I have to have the truck towed to a dealership to fix the problem of it not starting... The battery drained down so I took it out and charged it... only thing I can possibly think of is a low battery or maybe somebody tried to steal it while I was out of town and messed up something.
Ok I have a 97 f150 4.6L. My radiator has been bad for a while. With brown rust color. I replaced my radiator, thermostat, new upper and lower hoses. Everything runs great but I have no heat. I flushed everything including the heater core. Core is not leaking into cab, and both heater hoses are cold. What should I do next FYI heat worked great until 5 days ago.
View 14 RepliesMy 1997 f150 when I put her in drive the speedometer goes up to aproxx 36 mph and stays there no matter what I do or how fast I drive and then slowly falls back to zero when I shut the truck down. Where can I start, I had someone look at it years ago and the said the cluster was bad. I use my GPS to tell me the speed I am going, everything else works in the cluster.
View 2 RepliesJust did some trading for a 97 f150 4x4 extended cab with a 5.4 and auto trans. The guy I got it from told me that the transmission in it shifts real fast and won't downshift once it gets going and shifts hard sometimes. From past experiences I figured it might be the tps and sure enough pulled codes and I got the 122 code for voltage to low on it. Checked the wires with my multimeter and had exactly 5.0 volts to the one wire and when I checked the ground back to the battery had 12.xx volts when i tested the signal wire it had 1.0 so all my wires checked out but I am still getting the code. I replaced the sensor once already so I guess it is possible I got a new sensor that is bad or is there a chance that maybe my plugin to it is bad?
View 13 RepliesVehicle: 01 F150 5.4 4wd
issue: snapping sound like crushing tin can at take off and now at a fast stop.
Repairs already done:
upper control arms
lower ball joints
Sway bar link and bushing
4wd cv axle shaft assembly (both side )
Slip yoke grease.
Tie rod ends replace inner and outer
I put the truck an a lift and put it on drive and there is no sound.
1998 Ranger... I started having Speedometer/odometer problems after a power surge when my alternator went out. I knew the alternator was going bad and I tried to limp home another 5 miles rather than pay a tow bill and the alternator overcharged for a few seconds before completely dying. Since that time the only problem I am left with is my Speedometer and odometer have not worked. Scan tool says p0500 and I have replaced the ABS sensor on the differential with an OEM part but still no speedo or odo. I have checked all the fuses and relays associated multiple times. I do suspect that the RABS resistor is bad but there is no ABS light and it doesn't make sense that this one resisitor is the sle key for the whole speed control circuit. It's a manual transmission and RABS only. I swapped out the Cruise Control Servo with no luck as well. I am running out of options before having to take it to a dealer because I have to pass inspection. I have also checked and there is no power coming to 679 (GY/BK) into the instrument panel. I have also checked continuity for the rear harness to the ABS sensor and it is good.
View 2 Repliesso i changed the speedo cable and speed sensor in my 93 ranger, but still getting the speedometer bounce. what could be next? the speedo housing in the cluster? lubed the inner cable, made sure nothing is kinked or sharp bends. Put in a new vehicle speed sensor while i was at it just bcuz. cruise control does not hold a steady speed either but i think the 2 are not related. I'm leaning towards the cruise control servo as to why it does not hold a steady speed. Most of the time once i get to around sixty i'm basically driving by ear bcuz the speedo bounces from 60down to 55 and back up.
View 3 RepliesI just checked my computer I have a couple codes
P0453 evap emission system pressure sensor/ switch high
P0232 fuel pump secondary circuit high
C1303 right front isolation clamping circuit..
P0305 cylinder 5 misfire.
I changed the fuel pump 2 days ago and the coil on cyl 5.
My speedometer has not been working for months now and it really hasn't bothered me as I go by RPMs, but I am going to make a long trip in a few weeks and I wanted to try to get this fixed.
The speedometer flips over to 100 mph and rest on the opposite side as it should. When I accelerate it does not move until I get over about 35 mph where it will then flip to 86 mph. It will slowly move to 82 mph as I accelerate up until 75, where it will then no longer change. Every once in a while it will start working when I start the truck up, or when I am driving down the road. It has before, within a 30 minute time frame, started working and stopped working 6 times. Currently my ABS light is on, but it has been on long before this started occurring. Every other gauge on my dash works.
I drive a 5 speed manual V6 2003 Ford F150.