Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: Heater Is Blowing Lukewarm Air After About 20 - 30 Minutes Of Normal Driving
Dec 5, 2014
I'm driving a 2000 F150 with the Triton V8 5.4L.
My check engine light came on the other night while heading home. I went to Auto Zone and had them scan it and it came back with the P0125 error code.
My guess is that the thermostat is faulty because my heater is blowing lukewarm air after about 20-30 minutes of normal driving and I would expect the air to be much warmer so I'm thinking that the engine is not getting up to normal operating temperature.
I understand that this can be bad for fuel economy and such, but my question is it safe to drive?
I had planned on hunting up in the hills tomorrow all day and just want to know if this could cause any damage?
Here's a picture of what my cluster looks like after running for about 30 minutes.
Cluster after 30 minutes of driving.
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I have a 2002 f150 supercrew 5.4 liter. About mid winter my heat suddenly went from hot to lukewarm. A check of the fluids shows all is good. I use my truck solely for work so I didn't bother with it at the time. Summer is here and my AC blows kinda cold, at best. I can hear the blend door moving. The temp control does make a huge difference. It just doesn't get real cold or real hot. Not like it should.
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My 00 f-150 is not blowing air through the heater I replaced heater core and the temp door I had same problem before work done I did not see an issue when apart but no vacuum or electric to test when apart. The only thing that changes when I move selector for vent floor and defrost I do get a little better flow when on vent. My feet get cold and defrost is not working well if I put hand on defrost I feel warm air but 3-4" away when on floor; I feel nothing anything at all fan seems fine.
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98 F150 2wd 5.4 -even though VIN says its "W" 4.6; it has a 5.4 with 4.6 timing setup-found. But that's a whole other story...
So, Replaced heater core. did the blend door too.
A week later it overheated and blew a heater hose off the core at the firewall (several times). Temp was up and down, forced me into cylinder head protect mode, so i called my mechanic.
Mechanic used a sniffer (blue liquid turns yellow) in my overflow tank and there was exhaust gas in it... so we replaced head gaskets, intake, timing, water pump, radiator and the rotted out rad support.
Got it done and back on the road, but a few weeks later and the heater hose quick disconnect blew off again, spewing coolant all over (again). This was what we thought was part of the original problem- head gasket allowing cylinder compression into the coolant passages. the little rubber hose that comes from the back of the intake and goes up into the heater core builds enough pressure to pop the disconnect right off and I dont know why. Like I said- I thought it was the head gasket blowing pressure into it but that's all been replaced. Why the pressure would be so high at that point, and how do I correct this?
This is my daily driver, so for now I've bypassed the heater core, but I'm afraid that pressure is gonna burst a hose and/or fitting again.
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This problem is on my son's 2000 F-250 5.4. It's into October and my son tells me he has no heat coming out of his vents. I figure it has to be the control valve that should be in the heater hose lines. Could be jammed closed or a vacuum line has come off the pot that controls the open close cycle. We open the hood and nowhere can we see a coolant control flow valve. It is so tight and dark under all that mess of wires, intake, air conditioner lines and whatever.
Just where should we be looking for the valve. Also it could be the vacuum line is unplugged on the dash, behind the warm/cool selector. And even there is a possibility that some doofus has removed something. He bought the truck this summer. So to get us on the right path, where we start looking for the flow control valve?
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We got our first taste of fall weather in Houston this weekend, and with it I've discovered a new problem with my truck. After the engine was up to temp, I noticed that the heater would blow cold air any time I sat at idle. If you rev up the rpm's to 1500-2000, you can feel the air start to get warm again. I'm guessing this means my heater core needs to be backflushed.
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just curious if this is normal? My trucks been vibrating when I drive it and my mechanic says it's normal
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Here's what I have. 02 X 7.3L 4x4.
Heater will work fine. Then out of nowhere just blow cold. I can turn it off then back on it'll blow hot for 1 minute or 20 minutes. Then out of nowhere blow cold again. It doesn't matter if I'm highway driving or city driving.
I'm kinda thinking it may be the door in the duct that's just closing. I real don't know.
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It's getting cold here in New England so my heater has decided to act up. I only get lukewarm air from the heater. The engine warms up in the same time it always has and the coolant temp gauge stays right in the middle at 12 o'clock. No overheating. So I think the thermostat and water pump are OK. I tried turning the heater temperature control from low to high and I can hear the blend door open and close. So at least the blend door motor isn't dead.
There's a definite difference in temperature between the inlet and outlet hoses to the heater core (based on how long I can hold my fingers on the metal hose clamps for the two hoses). I disconnected the two hoses and flushed the heater core. I mixed up some Prestone Radiator Flush with boiling water, poured it in, and let it sit for 40 minutes. Some particulate crud came out but not a lot. Rinsed and repeated in backflush direction. Somewhat more crud but still not a lot. I reconnected the hoses and not much has changed--still just lukewarm air.
To bleed the system I elevated the plastic coolant tank and pulled back the return hose to open the bleed hole in the hose by the firewall.
How much of a temperature difference should I expect between the heater inlet and outlet hoses? Do I need to improve my bleed procedure? Is there a coolant control valve in this system or does the coolant flow at max volume all the time?
BTW, I ended up adding about 44 ozs of water and G12 to what was already in the system. There must have been some air in the system because the coolant level was just a touch below the MIN line at the beginning. I've also noticed when it's rainy or cool/humid there's some vapor coming from the radiator (not heater) area. I'm wondering if I have a slow radiator leak and that's allowed some water/G12 to escape. But even after adding the 44 ozs I still don't get hot air from the system.
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2000 F-150 Triton V-8, Super Cab, 2WD, ~170,000 miles, 4-wheel ABS (one speed sensor on each front wheel and one on the rear differential). The ABS light comes on a few minutes after driving. It seems to take a little bit longer for the light to come on when the weather is colder.
I used a Cen-Tech 60794 OBD II/CAN with ABS scan tool with key on, engine off, and the below sequence. No codes were detected. I then left the scanner connected but powered off and drove around until the ABS light came on. Pulled into a parking lot with engine running, powered up the scan tool and went through the following menu choices:
Diagnostics
ABS
Area - USA vehicles
Model - Ford
Although the tool's instruction manual has several more items that may or may not be required (VIN digits, model year, etc), the next thing I saw is a message indicating the scanner is linking with the vehicle computer. During that time the ABS light went out. Next on the scan tool display my choice was to read codes or erase codes. I selected "Read codes" and the display said there are no codes in the module.
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My 2001 F250SD 5.4L is doing something odd. When I have the A/C on and accelerate, it shifts from blowing out cold air from dash vents and goes to blowing lukewarm air out from the defrost vents on top. As soon as I decelerate or tap the brake pedal, it switches back to the dash vents and blows cold again. Even minor acceleration switches the air from blowing out the dash vents to blowing out the defroster vents.
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My 2011 F-250 just started having a weird heater problem. My truck heater gets up to temp just fine but after cruising down the highway for about 15 minutes or so it starts blowing out cool air. I can turn the controls to defrost and back again and it blows warm, not hot but warm then cool again. It just started a couple of days ago. Temp gauges show normal temp also.
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Right now it's 101 degrees outside and the A/C on my Prius just ain't gettin' the job done. It doesn't even feel like it's blowing cool air anymore, just lukewarm air. How can I cool down the cabin more? Temps like this only happen a couple times a year here. What do Prius owners do in places like Pheonix where 100+ temps are the norm?
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Model is 2006 2.2l Diesel (Europe - so second gen)
I've noticed that as the weather has gotten cooler my heater just doesn't heat up at all under normal driving conditions. I can see the actuators moving at the back of the unit and the car seems to get up to temperature fine.
When climate control is set to auto the A/C seems to come on intermittently which I find quite odd even when I have the temperature up quite high. If I leave the car in park and rev the engine heat will start to come through the vents, but this doesn't really represent normal driving conditions.
I have noticed small patches up water under the car when it's parked, so assumed there was a water leak, but when I top up the water it quickly overflows. So I'm thinking it might be an airlock maybe?
I'm really stuck, just want to see if there is anything I can rule out before I drop it into a garage to see if they can get to the bottom of it.
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We have a 2003 GMC Envoy. Normally upon starting the car, the engine will rev high for a few minutes while driving and then it stops and returns to normal. However, this morning I was driving the car and it was revving high continuously. Every time I started from a stop at a light, it would rev up to 2 RPM's and continue higher while the car was just sluggish. I would let off of the gas pedal and it would drop back down and slowly shift but then it would return to making a loud revving sound as I stepped on the gas pedal. There are no lights lite up on the dashboard and everything looks normal except for the loud revving sound and the car being sluggish because of the high revving.
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Had very cold weather the past few weeks. Took my car out early in the morning last Thursday (after warming it up) and there was a loud squealing noise from the heater for about 2 minutes when I was driving five minutes from my driveway. Since then, I have this faint squealing noise that can be heard anytime that heater is on. It loud on the first two settings.
Took it to Toyota and they said it was normal due to the cold but from past cars I've owned, it looks like the blower motor could be on it's way out? Can this be true? Car has 11,000 miles on it.
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The heater fan stopped blowing the other day. The fuses check out ok. What would be the most likely culprit after that? relay? Switch? Blower motor?
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My AC has been cooling once start-up the engine and turn it on onward. After 20-30 mins of driving, cooling has been reduce and blowing seems reduced as well.
After arriving the destination, i check the engine bay and i notice the tube part going to AC valve expansion it frozen and covered by ice.
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2007 GS 350 109,500 miles. My heater was blowing cold at idle and warm when driving so I took it to dealer. To my surprise, dealer says its a blown head gasket. No other symptoms. No white smoke, no smells, no warning lights on dash, and running fine. Just had VVT gear recall done last week.
Fortunately I have Lexus extended warranty good thru 125k miles and Feb 2014. I do my own maintenance (plugs, oil changes etc). Have records for all. But have not done coolant change (due at 100k).
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My '06 GS450h has developed a fault where the heater blows cold at idle and low revs but blows warm when driving or revving the engine at a standstill. The coolant hasn't dropped at all and the car never goes above halfway on the temp gauge. Its starting to get frustrating now the cold weather has set in and temps dropping! Long journeys are ok as at high speeds it stays warm but short journeys are uncomfortable!
I just had a feel of the rad hoses and hoses that go into the matrix (engine side of bulk head) and matrix hoses feel warm (both of them), the top hose to the rad is warm but not hot and bottom hose is cold suggesting the stat hasn't opened yet. Its cold outside so getting the car up to temp is quite difficult without a long drive (rush hour at the mo).
Still I just had the car parked on the drive and cranked the heater up to max and held the accelerator for a while and super warm air blows out. The engine cuts back out as "normal operating temp" has been reached for battery mode and then the heater goes cool again! Still the bottom radiator hose is cool and top hose not massively warm. It has never overheated thus far and I drive 150miles a day back and forth to Reading from Cheltenham 4 nights a week.
Only thing I can think of is a sticky thermostat or water pump not operating sufficiently enough to circulate the water? Its getting colder and short trips where it used to blow warm air nice and quickly (within 3-5miles) are becoming unpleasant!
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I'm a bit concerned about my faithful old 1997 Honda Accord DX.
I noticed a particularly slow start a few weeks ago, so I went to Batteries and Bulbs for a quick check. The battery, which was a little over a year old, was already half dead. They swapped it out under partial warranty in case that was the cause.
This morning - same deal. It turned over 4-5 times with a particularly large squeal in the middle of the cranking, but it finally started. I drove it ten minutes and parked it at my normal mechanic (met a friend there to drive her to work, since her Honda has a check engine light on) and it cranked up immediately there. Turned over once, and fired right up.
The last time I thought I heard a funny noise on starting and took it to get checked out (and get an oil change at the same time), my mechanic swore everything was fine. In fact, he said "Your car is perfect." I'm concerned if I take it in without having some suggestions on what to check this time that I'll be dismissed as a car hypochondriac.
The car has 222K miles on it. Last tune up was around 200K miles, last timing belt change at 190K miles.
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