Santa Fe (CM - 2007-12) :: Heater Does Not Heat Up At All Under Normal Driving Conditions
Nov 9, 2016
Model is 2006 2.2l Diesel (Europe - so second gen)
I've noticed that as the weather has gotten cooler my heater just doesn't heat up at all under normal driving conditions. I can see the actuators moving at the back of the unit and the car seems to get up to temperature fine.
When climate control is set to auto the A/C seems to come on intermittently which I find quite odd even when I have the temperature up quite high. If I leave the car in park and rev the engine heat will start to come through the vents, but this doesn't really represent normal driving conditions.
I have noticed small patches up water under the car when it's parked, so assumed there was a water leak, but when I top up the water it quickly overflows. So I'm thinking it might be an airlock maybe?
I'm really stuck, just want to see if there is anything I can rule out before I drop it into a garage to see if they can get to the bottom of it.
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I have a 09 santa fe and it just started doing this. when we start it and let it warm up it will get the normal temp and will blow hot air but when we start to drive the thermostat goes back down to cold and it will blow cold air. I have had a problem similar to this before and taken it back to the dealership and they replace the same thing over and over. but this time its not fixing itself and it is staying like this. usually it will fix itself.
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Having issue where you get a continuous whistling while under normal driving conditions. I recently went to stage 3 Revo software using the Stasis Revo K04 upgrade kit, installed professionally. Have looked at all possible sources of the whistling, have narrowed it down to the the turbo itself. Can hear the car whistling from a good distance away from it. when not moving if I rev the engine i can reproduce the whistle as well, just not sustained. As soon as you press the throttle above 2400 RPM it starts whistling and continues to whistle as long as throttle is pressed. Car is almost un-drivable because of whistle.
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A large auto magazine has reviewed the Auris Hybrid (Gen III Prius drive train) while remarking that driving in 'B' gives better regen. This auto magazine also does a fuel economy evaluation and noted engine noise as a negative point for the car.
Now, how much fuel economy is affected during normal city/highway driving when you drive in 'B' rather than 'D'? And as a bonus. How much more will the engine run due to the missing regen?
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On my 2002 F250 7.3 I kept getting a check engine light when I pulled my 5th wheel uphill, I took it to a shop and they told me my HPOP needed replaced. I bought a new pump and installed it. Now my check engine light comes on and turns off during normal driving conditions. I do not have a code yet but hoping there is some idea on what might have happened.
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So my oil doesn't leak when it off it will only leak when it's at normal driving temperate it is coming from the cast piece that my oil pan (the plastic piece) is on... Where it connects to the actual motor... Any clue what it would be? BTW it is a 2011 Santa Fe
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My heater works when engine on tickover then stops working after a mile or so driving. I have taken heater hoses off and it does not seem blocked and have replaced the engine thermostat. Now what can I do??
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2010 Santa Fe v6, AWD, 95K miles. New struts at 65K, new swaybar endlinks shortly after that.
VERY reliable overall (knock wood).
Last 5K miles or so Ive started noticing a "clickpop" under certain conditions. It sounds like the swaybar endlinks did when they started going - BUT it is different.
Let me explain:
The sound is not caused by road unevenness, or bumps at all. When the struts or swaybar endlinks go, its pretty easy to tell - as you can hit an uneven patch of road, or a certain type of bump and make it happen.
This "clickpop" sounds as if it is coming from just about under the brake pedal, on the firewall side of things. (Engine/undercarriage in that area).
I can make it do it by accelerating up to a "cruising along" speed - i.e. little throttle input (but not coasting down) and then either add throttle quickly, or back off totally. "Clickpop"
I have also been able to make it do it at a stop light - if the road is inclined (stopped uphill) and I add throttle then get off it. Clickpop. Its getting worse pretty noticeably in the past week.
Looking at things - all that makes sense to me is the motor mounts. There are apparently two - one on each side, and two "anti roll" mounts one front and back. If the anti roll ones were bad (esp the one on the back) it would seem to fit.
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I'm driving a 2000 F150 with the Triton V8 5.4L.
My check engine light came on the other night while heading home. I went to Auto Zone and had them scan it and it came back with the P0125 error code.
My guess is that the thermostat is faulty because my heater is blowing lukewarm air after about 20-30 minutes of normal driving and I would expect the air to be much warmer so I'm thinking that the engine is not getting up to normal operating temperature.
I understand that this can be bad for fuel economy and such, but my question is it safe to drive?
I had planned on hunting up in the hills tomorrow all day and just want to know if this could cause any damage?
Here's a picture of what my cluster looks like after running for about 30 minutes.
Cluster after 30 minutes of driving.
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I was just thinking about this last night when driving home under heavy rain. It was nice to have it on the highway turns where there was heavy flooding and hydroplane possibilities, especially since I am used to 4 wheel drive in these conditions. I was wondering if I shouldn't be turning it off under normal conditions though? I know it's handy to do so if you are stuck in heavy snow but since the default is always on I wonder if there is any other gain to only using it when needed rather than only turning it off when needed?
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On a '03 Solara, I've got this code. It designates Shift Solenoid Performance (stuck off) for the S4 valve. It makes sense because the trans won't shift into 4th gear in normal conditions.
But I was wondering what the likelihood of the transmission speed sensor set this code by giving a faulty reading that was too slow. The car seems like it is going somewhat faster than the speedometer is reading. RPMs are over 3000 at 50 mph. Seems like I'm doing 60-65. I wonder if the ECM is not commanding the 3-4 shift because it 'thinks' the car has not reached the required speed?
Or possibly the button on the shifter is simply malfunctioning. The indicator light on the dash comes on if the button is pushed, and goes out when you push it again. I'm not familiar with what the normal RPM would be at highway cruising. It's a 4 cyl with 169,400 miles. Would torque converter clutch be more likely to fail than the shift solenoids on these cars?
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OK, long story short. I had P2284 code on my scan gauge after replacing the oil cooler. I contributed it to air in the oil system. Sure enough, a few days of hard driving and the code went away.
Now a week later, I fired up my truck on a cold start yesterday morning. It's not that cold here(low 40's in the morning), but the oil started off at about 50F. Correspondingly, ICP at is higher, at around 1000(it's like this every morning until oil warms up). I usually let it warm up a tad before driving but yesterday I didn't, and hit the gas pedal a little hard once and the truck started acting like it does when you get this code.
Sure enough, check scan gauge and the code is there. I drive home(about 15 minutes). A half hour later I start the truck up, check codes, and it's back to normal. Of course, oil temps were higher and ICP in the normal range between 580-590.
So is this normal? Since it doesn't trigger a CEL I assume it's more of a system parameters code? Only other thing I can think of, if this isn't normal, is a mucked up IPR screen from when I installed my BPD oil cooler.
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My 2009 Santa Fe with V6 runs a little under 3000 rpm at 65 mph. Is this normal? Seems a little high. No other problems with the engine.
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I have a 2001 F-350 S/D w/7.3. Question is... Is it possible for the mode switch ( one controls floor/ defrost and A/c ) to not function or should I say leave the a/c on even if it is not in a/c position? What I have noticed was that when it is in the floor mode or the vent mode (not the floor/vent) the compressor does not come on. When it is in vent/floor or either a/c modes it does. Is this normal... I don't think so though I do know anytime the a/c is switched on compressor should come on but no time without a/c being on.. Maybe I'm wrong
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I was standing still on a red light this evening i noticed that not all of my driver's side door switches have illumination, is this normal? Take a look at the picture.
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I took the 2008 Santa Fe Limited into the dealer for no control over heat in cabin. It turned out to be a air mixing valve actuator failure. Since the car had 60714 miles on it I needed to convince the dealer, since this is a common failure, that Hyundai should stand behind it. Since it failed before I brought it in, it failed before the 60k mark. The dealer supplied the part and I the labor.
Before I brought it in I replaced the thermostat. An old school problem fix for insufficient heat. That did nothing. Upon disassembly i found it very difficult to get at. You need a lot of patients to do this task and reversible wrists and elbows due to its location.
Also, in looking up the control system in the Factory Repair Manual I discovered this Limited heat/AC panel has an internal self-diagnosis that you can trigger. It did indeed indicate a faulty actuator. The dealer was not aware of the self-diagnosis facility having not been taught it by Hyundai during training.
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I have a 2007 Santa Fe that will only produce heat on the driver side of the vehicle. It does not have dual climate control. So I changed out the heat control actuator and it did not work. I manually moved the lever and still nothing. The air will go from all sections perfectly.
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2011 SE leased in December 2010. I Now have 14,000 miles and my trans has started to slip.
First slip was yesterday on a a fully warmed motor while I was accelerating at a normal rate of speed. I am guessing the car was in 2nd gear (25mph) and the rpms shot all the way up to redline. I let off the gas, coasted for a few seconds and the trans engaged the gear and I kept driving. No cel
Today the same thing happened under the same conditions but this time when the trans re-engaged the gear, the car jerked forward pretty violently.
About 15 minutes later this happened again but at highway speeds (65mph) while cruising. Again, violent jerk and a thump when the trans caught the gear.
After all this I have no CEL. I know if I bring the truck to the dealer they are going to give me the old, "we cant reproduce the problem." Once the trans starts to slip like this the damage has already been done and its just a matter of time before I am stranded on the the side of the road.
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My '08 2.7 has difficulty starting in the morning. It makes the normal cranking noises but won't fire up immediately. I typically let it try to catch for 5-10 seconds, pause, and try again. Then I wait a minute, try again, and everything starts fine. Then it'll start normally the rest of the day.
Pardon my ignorance, but isn't there some sort of compartment that holds fuel into the engine with a check valve that keeps it from releasing back into the tank? Could it be that this valve is leaking?
Or does it sound like I need a whole new fuel pump? I tried to find schematics, but had no luck. I tired hmaservice.com, but I'm not willing to install the Adobe SVG app (obsolete and security risk) to view the documents.
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I noticed my Hyundai steering wheel was off centre about 20 degrees to the left so I took it in for an alignment. The toe was out and the inside left front tire was worn. The alignment is now spot on and I rotated the tires putting the slightly worn to the rear. When I accelerate now the steering wheel turns to the right. If I try to straighten the steering wheel while accelerating the vehicle veers sharply to the left. Odd is while accelerating it drives straight even-though the wheel is approximately 20 deg to the right now. When I let go of the gas and maintain constant speed the wheel straightens out by itself. When I first let go of the gas the vehicle will jerk to the right even though the wheel is straightening.
After this driving is ok - no pulling and drives straight. Only during harder acceleration does the wheel turn. I've had the Sante Fe since new and this is really off now. Has 170K km (100K mi). I know it is torgue steer due to some worn part or bushing but have not been able to diagnose easily. I replaced the lower tie-rod ends. Steering feels tighter but the bad torgue steer is still there. I am inclined to replace the lower control arm vertical and horizontal bushings. Ball joints seem ok when testing with pry-bar. I brought it back to the alignment shop and they verified the alignment was ok, everything was tight and could not identify any obvious issues with the suspension or steering components.
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Today, while driving on the highway, my heater just quit working. My car is equipped with the automatic climate controls and so I switched it to manual mode to see if the heat would come back. The heat does not seem to be mixing at all with the air.
One weird thing is that if I set the temperature to 90 degrees then the A/C mode will turn off and blow pure hot air. However, if I go to 89 degrees then the heat will stop and the A/C will turn on again. Turning off the A/C manually does not bring the heat back.
What could be wrong? I might just try unplugging and reconnecting the controls since I was messing with the radio a couple of days ago.
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