Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: Hesitates / Surges When Climbing Hills
Jul 7, 2013
03 supercrew 5.4. I've been having problems climbing hills. I'm on a trip and the truck surged fron do then to drive and stopped. Let it sit for 30 mins or so and it was good. Drove another 500 miles ans started again going up some hills. The first time it was 110 out and the 2nd it was 90. I'm pretty sure it's a cop but of course no cel. It does not seem to of over heated either. Can the cops overheat? Do you recommend a diagnostic, will this show up if no cel has show?
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1997 Hyundai Lantra LS 1.8 5-speed. I live in a really flat area, but we're surrounded by hills and mountains. Whenever I have to go into the mountains I start to get blue smoke from the exhaust after a few minutes of climbing. The longer or steeper the hill, the more smoke I get. Obviously I'm burning oil, but I'm not sure what would cause the problem only when the engine is being taxed.
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I've been driving my 99 ranger 2.5 now for 2 weeks now. Overall I am very impressed and happy with it. Everything seems to be near perfect and in top shape on this truck and I feel like it'll have no problem paying me back.
I've recently noticed, however, that whenever I start up a hill with the climate control on, it shifts from whatever I set it to, to the defrost vents. It returns to the vents I set it to after I crest the hill, and doesn't change vents if I don't drive over hills. I live in a hilly area so that's not convenient. And with summer around the corner, I want this solved.
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I have a 2000 Ford Explorer with 188,000 miles on it. I bought it used with 110K miles and put a new tranny in at that time. Now, I am having problems. I don't know if it's the tranny or the engine. It looses power when climbing hills. It takes off really slow with no power and finally gets up to speed it switches gears the whole time smoothly but the engine just can't take a load.
The check engine light came on and put out 10 codes:
P1451 EVAP Control System Canister Vent
P1747 Electronic Solenoid A-Short Circuit
P0743-Torque Converter Clutch Circuit Electrical
P0750-Shift Solenoid "A"
P0755-Shift Solenoid "B"
P0760-Shift Solenoid "C"
P0765-Shift Solenoid "D"
P0135-O2 Sensor Heater Circuit
P0155-O2 Sensor Heater Circuit
P1409-EGR Vacuum Regulator Circuit Malfunction
Those are the codes and I don't know how one has anything to do with the other. I checked the dip stick on the tranny and it's clean. Juicy red and not shavings.
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Our 07 Mazda5 (80k) once in a while will start and run very roughly, and pressing the gas to the floor only gets it to 3,000 rpms.It has diminished power for climbing hills when this occurs. Everytime this happens if we shut the car off and let it sit (between 10 minutes - a couple hours) it starts and runs like a top. We have added drygas 2 of the times, but the last time it happened was on the same tank of gas that we added the drygas to. Check engine light comes on, but will go off after a day or so.
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I am having an engine temp issue when climbing steep hills. The gauge goes from normal to the red line but not into the red. The VDC OFF light is on but the CEL is not one. Once I reach the top of the hill the engine begins to cool off and returns to normal. Yesterday I had the radiator flushed and the thermostat changed. Am I looking at a water pump or head gaskets?
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Our 2002 Hyundai Elantra is having issues. It shifts fine, no need to double-clutch. It stays in gear. Doesn't grind or anything crazy like that. It does seem like it isn't getting power to the drivetrain, and is having trouble climbing hills. This all came on very suddenly. Hubby thinks it's the clutch -- I think it may be the bushings. Though now, I'm wondering if it's something else? Since it's not having trouble shifting, should we be looking at the fuel system? Sensors? Engine seals?
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Truck runs cool when driving around town about 177. Get on the highway and the temp goes to about 195, go up a mountain pass she climbs to about 210 and I feel that If I dont back off the gas the truck will overheat because the temp just keeps climbing. Go down the highway again on a flat stretch of highway and it drops to 195, get into town temp drops to 177 and even lower when i just let the truck idle.
Truck has a brand new 195 thermostat, fan clutch is only a month old, water pump is about 2 years old, this truck has had head gasket issues in the past but every year I put in the bars stuff and have not had a problem with it since, I started doing the bars stuff about 4 years ago. This is the stuff you flush the system first with not the pour in stuff. 1997 f150 4.6l
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I have a 2002 Nissan Frontier with a non supercharged 3.3L v6. The truck is a crew cab, long bed and 4x4. I have had this truck since I bought it used in 2004 with 26k miles. The truck now has 196k miles and I have done a little modifying to make it a bit more off road capable.
I have done all the work to the truck myself, until last fall when I finally broke down and took it to a dealer, who was not able to find my problem, but I will get to that...First of all, the truck has steel bumpers, a winch, a tool box, onboard air system and large tires, all of which make the little 3.3L work hard. However, for three years since I quit making modifications, the truck ran perfectly cool and the temp needle never once went above the normal operating position, even through thick sand at the beach, mountain trails and towing heavy trailers, until last summer.
Late last summer, on 90+ degree days, I noticed the temp needle would start riding above normal when I had the AC on. It didnt matter if I was on the highway, the city streets or idling in the driveway. When I turned off the AC the needle went back to normal. This started happening occasionally at first (once every 2 weeks) then towards fall it started happening more frequently, almost every 90 degree day. Soon after I noticed the problem, it would happen even with the AC off, but not get quite so hot.
After a few weeks of this, I started chasing the problem. I replaced the radiator cap, the thermostat (tested the old one and tested the new one before installing,) I took the radiator to a rad shop and had it boiled and flow tested, I replaced both coolant temp sensors, and then finally the water pump. When none of those repairs made a difference I built new radiator fan shrouds and that made no difference. At this point I was starting to get discouraged so I borrowed a scan tool from a friend and drove around for a few weeks with it plugged in. I was reading live temperature readings of the coolant and verified that the gauge was working correctly.
The truck ran about 200 degrees with the AC off most of the time, then, when I turned the AC on, no matter if I was sitting in park or driving on the highway, the temp would steadily climb until it got to 222 degrees and I would shut off the truck, at that point the needle was near the danger zone and according to several nissan dealership, the highest normal operating temp is 204, but it should stay around 195. At 205 degrees, the needle would start to move above the normal position, so the gauge seems to be fine. As summer turned into fall, the truck started running cooler as the days began to drop into the 70's. I finally got fed up with chasing my tail and took the truck to a dealer with my main concern being a blown head gasket or cracked head.
The dealership inspected the head and tested the coolant for hydrocarbons and said that the head and gasket are not the issue. They advised that the only other thing it could be is my fan clutch. After that dealership visit, the days were cool so I drove the truck all winter without changing the fan clutch. Then, 2 weeks ago, on a 70 degree day, I hooked up my truck to an empty trailer (maybe 1000lbs) and towed it 15 miles. When towing up hill with the AC on, the temp needle started moving. I immediately went to napa and replaced my fan clutch. Confident that was the issue, I drove the truck to the mountains for a camping trip last weekend. While climbing the hills at 40mph and about 2500 rpm, the temp needle climbed to the near danger zone.
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My 1999 5.4l runs great then after driving about 20 minutes, surges & stalls if you try to accelerate. Then the idle surges from 600 to 1500 (back and forth). Connected a fuel pressure gauge, and it shows 30 then drops to near 0 then bounces back to 30 then near 0, then back to 30 etc. No codes are reporting. What to check? Let it cool down, process repeats. Has new fuel pump & filter.
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Truck started just fine this morning, was driving for about 15 minutes and it started to lose power going up a gradual incline. I didn't even think of it really and so I just pushed the pedal in a bit and no increase in power, in fact it bogged down. I let up and went back to the gas and same thing. This was barely pressing the pedal down. I got to the top of the incline and started back down a bit and gained speed (dropped from 55-60 to 40 at the crest) up to 55, hit level ground and started to lose power again, and it felt for the life of me like the truck was fighting for every ounce of power it could get. Everytime I would step on it it would bog down again. I nursed it to an appointment I had, and when I got done with that I started back home. Same thing. It would accelerate from a stop up to 30 (I've always been a laid back accelerater) and when I would read 35-45 it would start to dog again. I got it back home.
2nd issue: On the way home I had to stop at a highway crossing on a slight inline. There the truck started to shudder a bit. and if I would just touch the gas pedal it would bog down. I played with it a bit and got it to rev a bit. put it in reverse got away from the intersection and let it idle a bit when It died. started right back up, no problem. would play with the accelerator and same thing. I finally got it to rev a bit and 2 footed it back home slipping from neutral to drive.
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For example. If you are going 30 mph the engine surges. It surges when the throttle is in the same tps location.
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2001 F150! It does this weird little surge, burping and farting away...but only in ambient heat. The engine never gets hot, it never over heats. What have we done? A full tuneup with new plugs and boots, oil change, new air filter, gas filter. It did it again...took it back in and had the fuel pressure checked, fuel injectors are fine...it can't be the fuel pump, it runs great unless it is hot weather. It has twice blown the P0171 system lean bank 1 code and has gone away after the tuneup and again after the new o2 sensor. It runs great, except in hot weather, starts surging and losing power...
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So I know there has been lots of posts on surging issues and how to troubleshoot. My truck is a 97 f150 4x4 xlt 4.6l v8. I have noticing surging and dropping in my RPMs lately. No CEL. I have kept a journal when I notice when it happens. I only have issues when I am driving around 40-50 mph and if I go over bumps/pot holes/rough spots in roads or when I'm braking over bumps/pot holes/rough spots, my truck surges/RPMs drop CEL flashes on and off only during these instances. Makes me think something could be loose or something causing this. It has stalled at times when having to brake fast (yellow light, etc.). Where to look first? 1997 F150 4x4 4.6 V8...
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I am new to FTE and have a question about my 99 4.2l. After it warms up, i can shut it off and about 30 mins later try to start it again and it will idle very rough and sometimes stall. I also noticed that it surges sometimes with just off idle throttle when its cold. I am not getting any codes thrown, here's what I've done so far: cleaned the maf and throttle body, and it didnt work at all. I did convert my cht over to ect by using the plugged coolant outlet on the lower right side of the intake manifold and extending the connector wires which actually solved the problem a little bit but it still does it from time to time.
More info about the cht to ect conversion, but after reading that ford did away with them in later models i wanted to do the same while at the same time making it so much easier to swap it out if ever needed. No more getting under the truck. And where im at cht's are kind of hard to come by without having to order them Anyway, it worked flawlessly! I only had to extend the wires by about 8", wrapped them and ran it along side the injectors for a clean factory look. Ill try to post pics soon...
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'1999 F150, 5.4L, 85K miles ....
Fuel pump failed last year, had it replaced. Ran fine for a week or 2, then one day went into limp-home mode. Mech replace fuel pump relay, again ran fine for a month or so. Now when the ambient temp gets above 80F or so (yeah, it has already this year - I'm in Central TX), engine at full op temp, I'm experiencing some sort of heat-soak issue. Engine runs fine when cold, and at normal op temps on the road, but if it is parked for 15 - 20 minutes then restarted, the idle goes all funky - nearly dies, surges, etc. for a minute or 2, and then it seems ok.
I would go back to the same mech, but he had to close his shop due to health issues, so I'd like to see if I can resolve this. So, it is definitely heat-triggered, and "seems" like a fuel issue, but of course it could be some electrical contact having difficulty above a certain temp.
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2006 Chevy Express 3500 ... Vehicle surges, hesitates, stalls, backfires, and is hard to start after stalling.No codes are thrown, and have had the fuel system checked out without results. 159.000 miles. last mechanic said it was not a spark plug issue. Been an ongoing problem for several months and getting worse all the time.
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I've been having an issue with my Elantra GT where the car appears to be shifting poorly. The issue is very intermittent and usually only occurs just after starting to drive for about 4 to 5 minutes. But it never occurs consistently during every time I start driving the car. It is an Auto transmission but it feels as if a poor downshift is being back (car hesitates, then surges forward). From my research the transmission in the GT appears to be fairly reliable.
Background
2013 Elantra GT
KMs: 98500 km (high mileage commuter to work and back)
Note: Installed K&N Typhoon around 95,000 km, issue persisted before and after.
Initially started to feel the issue around 80,000 km. At this point I took it to the dealer and had the transmission flushed. The issue went away until about the 87,000 to 90,000 km mark and then started to return. Went back to the dealer and they said they performed an updated and couldn't replicate the issue during test drives. Currently my car is at 98,500 and this morning when driving to work the issue was particularly severe and the check engine light came on.
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My 02 F150 4.6 has 84K miles on it, and started stumbling/hesitating during accellartion about three weeks ago. Before this problem started (about 2,000 miles ago), I installed a new fuel filter and air filter. Since I noticed the problem, I installed new plugs. The problem didn't go away, so today I checked the fuel pressure. At idle the pressure is 32psi with the vacuum line left on the fuel pressure regulator (30-45 is normal as per Chilton's), and 42 with the vacuum line off (40-50 is normal as per Chilton's). I also had someone else rev the engine so I could observe, and found that the fuel pressure went as low as 28 when the engine speed was quickly increased. The standing fuel line pressure is 30 (30 is normal as per Chilton's) Does this sound like a fuel pump problem, or is there something else that I'm missing.
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New here. I have a 2001 F150 which i love but lately has been an issue. I started it up a few weeks ago after it set over night. i threw it in to reverse and notice it hesitating while reversing and it has small trouble accelerating but does buck and jerk while trying to maintain speed. So I took it to my well trusted mechanic and he ran compression test and ran the highly prolific OTC scanner on it and nothing. I have changed my mass flow sensor and I dont show any misfires or any codes pending. I did replace a busted catalytic convertor a couple months back. Im running out of places to turn.
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Decided to try a new wheel to see if I can stop the surge during hill climbing with our 5er. Old wheel looked great with no dusting or nicks. New wheel sure has a whirl when it spools up, but sounds cool. Haven't pulled trailer since swap yet. Truck still only has 85k on the clock.
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