Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: 2001 - Hesitates While Reversing - Buck And Jerk While Maintaining Speed?
Aug 24, 2011
New here. I have a 2001 F150 which i love but lately has been an issue. I started it up a few weeks ago after it set over night. i threw it in to reverse and notice it hesitating while reversing and it has small trouble accelerating but does buck and jerk while trying to maintain speed. So I took it to my well trusted mechanic and he ran compression test and ran the highly prolific OTC scanner on it and nothing. I have changed my mass flow sensor and I dont show any misfires or any codes pending. I did replace a busted catalytic convertor a couple months back. Im running out of places to turn.
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I have an '01 Blazer that's had a strange vibration for some time now. Here are the particulars:
It's a low frequency rumbling It happens only between 45 and 60 mph It tends to come and go It usually starts after about 5 minutes of driving first thing in the day It generally goes away after awhile and may not happen the rest of the day It happens only when I'm accelerating or maintaining speed on an incline It happens when it's hot, cold, wet or dry
What I've done lately: replaced all the brake pads replaced one rear rotor and caliper slide pins (one pin was frozen and the rotor was badly worn Checked the U-joints, which are sound
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Ford Taurus 99 3.0 dohc. 122000 miles. No engine light.
When driving at 65 mph only while accelerating there is a jerk/buck almost like it tries to go faster but it gets stopped violently. I Checked spark plugs, wires, etc. The plugs were twice the gap so I just replaced them with wires and coil pack since they were original.
Still have the problem...and now I am testing several things. Tps seems OK. Voltage does not jump but it doesn't go higher than 4 volts even if its rated for almost five. I checked on a cheap scan tool voltage for o2 sensors. Both upstream seem to be normal. Down stream seem low and a bit jumpier than I would expect. And I am hoping its not the cat.
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I just changed my 4.6L. Now my tranny is starting to serge and buck it won't go in rev. But when I put it in D it started to clunk and buck. RPM would go up speed went down.
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I have a 2011 Hyundai Sonata limited with 68,000 miles on it. Once the car has been warmed up for awhile and I shift into drive after a stop, the transmission will jerk/buck fairly hard. It only does it while being put into drive and I haven't had any other issues while driving.
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2001 S-Crew, 4RW70, 5.4L, 189,000 miles. This started two years ago and first became apparent when I made a hard/panic stop. In fact, the first time it did it I was going to go through a traffic light and hit the brakes at the last second so I didn't actually run the red light. The truck shook like it missed for a second. That was unlikely as the coils and plugs were relatively new.
Here's what it does. When sitting still, in gear and you let off the brake but do not touch the accelerator, the truck will start to move as expected. It immediately shudders as it passes through 3-5 mph and then stops. It shifts through all the gears flawlessly, has no sign of the dreaded torque converter issue. It also does it as you come to a stop- as you come to a full stop and the trans shifts into 1st it shudders just as you come to a halt.
It started doing two years ago and never progressed. It's been the same until just recently when the weather got warm again. It's gotten a bunch worse in the last week and now the truck actually feels like it is idling rough sitting at a stop. (It's not- it's running fine.) But it feels like clutch chatter in a manual. Fluid changes have been routinely done every 30,000-40,000 miles, trans fluid is clear and not burnt, temps are normal.
As I said, it behaves perfectly the rest of the time and even tows my 20' 4,000 lb. boat just fine. Just that initial moment of take-off and at the stop. If I hit the gas when taking off I never feel it. Likewise, if you shift into neutral and coast to a stop it doesn't do it.
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2001 F150 4x4 harsh shaking. When driving at consistent speeds the truck begins to shutter and shake, begins as a light shake and becomes extremely harsh fast. This is not like a vibration that can be felt, but a really harsh shaking of the entire truck.
The truck continues to shake after taking foot off gas and braking. It will shake harshly even when braking and slowed down to 5mph, but instantly goes away once at a complete stop. Accelerate immediately after coming to a complete stop and it completely goes away and drives normal for a day.
Check Engine light has not come on. Tachometer stays consistent RPM. Shift into neutral does not stop shaking. Only coming to a complete stop ether in drive or neutral does the shaking stop. It happens driving at consistent speeds going 35mph & 65mph, etc. Any thoughts on what the issue could be?
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I have a 2001 f150 and when i go around 55 mph it starts to jerk/shake. and sometimes it randomly idles high like the rpm will go up a bit and go down. I also noticed the exhaust manifolds leak sometimes and I don't know if that's what is making it shake. from what i was told it could be the coil packs, spark plugs, or fuel filter but my check engine light is not on!
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2012 6.7l CC SB SRW 4x4.
Truck has 9700 miles on it, bought it in December of 2012. Twice in the last week, when at about 60 mph on a flat road, maintaining speed with virtually no wind, there is a slow, gradual shudder from the rear wheels. Both times the truck has been on cruise control and if I add power, the truck does not accelerate and the shudder continues to increase. If pull power either by brake or canceling cruise, it stops and the truck performs as expected.
I have yet to have the time to reproduce this. My only hope is if the dealer is already aware. I plan on trying to reproduce it at some point with hopes of having something tangible for the dealer.
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I was driving home from school last week and noticed my cruise control would stay set for 5 minutes or so, then slowly (over several minutes) lose speed. I've noticed it happen before, but very infrequently and usually if I stopped to use the restroom, when I started the truck back up it was fine. This time it continued to happen.
As I was getting nearer to home, I noticed that while I had the cruise set, I would hear a high squeaking noise in the dash almost dead center under the radio. Then , when I would tap the brakes, there would be a rattle. This would only happen with the cruise set.
Noise in dash - YouTube
Not sure how well the squeak can be heard, but the rattle is definitely audible. What the cause might be? Electrical, mechanical, are the cruise and the noise even related? Other than that, the truck seems to be running alright.
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I have noticed over the past month that as I am maintaining speed, I will have a vibration or shutter. It sounds and feels like you are running over the cuts in the road on the shoulder. I can accelerate and make it stop but as soon as I want to maintain speed it will happen again. It does not feel like there is anything going on in the transmission. I have searched the forums and have found some similar problems but not exactly. Where should I look first? U-Joint, Drivesahft?
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My wife and I own an 2003 2.7L Santa Fe 2WD with ~176K miles, for the past couple months we have been having several problems with this car, the biggest problem being that it will buck and jump while driving, and is now beginning to stall out. The stalling issue happens while driving at low speeds, while stopped in traffic, or while idling. The engine will rev slightly higher then stall out but will usually start right up afterwards. Only once that I know of, my wife has told me that it would not start right away.
I have read that the cause could be the CPS or fuel pressure regulator. Is there anyway, other than just swapping parts, to narrow down the culprit to the correct fix? The other problem we are having is the hard start after fueling up. I tested the Purge Valve by blowing into the hose, and determined it to be bad and will replacing it soon.
A little history on the car: I replaced the fuel pump and strainer last year, and a couple years we had 2 of the 3 catalytic converters fall apart and clogged the exhaust, so I knocked them out and have been driving with only one intact converter (rear exhaust manifold) since then. I know that isn't good for the O2 sensors, but we cannot afford to replace them at $300+ a piece.
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I have a 2005 hyundia elantra, i just recently noticed mainly while I was driving on the freeway or at higher speeds when I let my foot off the pedal my vehicle would slightly jerk and quickly decrease speed for a second, I then noticed my engine light was on. I stopped at a free computer test auto shop (o' reiley's ) and the test stated trouble code p1505 code definition - idle charge actuator signal - low of coil 1.
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Now that I use my truck as a daily driver I am noticing a vibration under acceleration at 30-35 and constant vibration at 45-50 accelerating or maintaining speed. I have replaced all three u-joints as well as new ribbed highway tires all around and still have the vibration. It seems worse in OD. I have done a little research and am either going to shim center support/machine a new one or have a one piece shaft made and need info on how to successfully gotten rid of this vibe on their truck mainly the amount of shimming required and the final driveline angle. It seems that most posts regarding this issue lean towards the fact that the 45-50mph vibe is normal for my year super duty and that's probably right but I want to remedy problem not "live with it!" (10 mile 45mph stretch to work @ 4AM, vibe bugs the heck out of me!)
Truck is 2000 f250 SC 2wd 4r100 3.73 gear currently 51000 miles.
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2003 F150 XLT 7700 4x4 5.4 Triton. While accelerating normally from a stop the transmission? shifts into 2nd with a heavy jerk. All other gears normal. It doesn't do this under hard acceleration or under very gentle and slow throttle application. Is this a COP issue, a transmission issue or just a driving style thing?
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03 supercrew 5.4. I've been having problems climbing hills. I'm on a trip and the truck surged fron do then to drive and stopped. Let it sit for 30 mins or so and it was good. Drove another 500 miles ans started again going up some hills. The first time it was 110 out and the 2nd it was 90. I'm pretty sure it's a cop but of course no cel. It does not seem to of over heated either. Can the cops overheat? Do you recommend a diagnostic, will this show up if no cel has show?
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Engine light is on, Auto Zone has given me a code of P1491 it mentioned open or short circuit condition, poor electrical connection, failed EGR valve. There are times when I push on the gas or brake the car hesitates and gives a little jerk.
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2012 GTI 6 Speed
Both needles bounce while maintaining a constant speed, example going 80mph in 6th, RPM moves +/-100ish RPM and speed is 1-2 MPH. The car doesn't actually move, just the gauges. Engine doesn't sound like its miss firing MPG was 30 going 80 so it seems to run just fine. Going through the gears playing around its smooth and normal.
I'm on a road trip so very limited on anything to diagnose, just looking for some insight.
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My 02 F150 4.6 has 84K miles on it, and started stumbling/hesitating during accellartion about three weeks ago. Before this problem started (about 2,000 miles ago), I installed a new fuel filter and air filter. Since I noticed the problem, I installed new plugs. The problem didn't go away, so today I checked the fuel pressure. At idle the pressure is 32psi with the vacuum line left on the fuel pressure regulator (30-45 is normal as per Chilton's), and 42 with the vacuum line off (40-50 is normal as per Chilton's). I also had someone else rev the engine so I could observe, and found that the fuel pressure went as low as 28 when the engine speed was quickly increased. The standing fuel line pressure is 30 (30 is normal as per Chilton's) Does this sound like a fuel pump problem, or is there something else that I'm missing.
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I have a 2001 f350 4x4 edge programmer 330k miles. I bought it not running right and thought it would be a easy fix. I'm fairly knowledgeable with the 7.3. Original symptoms where it would run for 5-10 minutes lose power and quit. No restart until it sat for a few hours. P1211 was code, so I figure it's a high pressure oil problem. The truck has a new icp, Ipr, fuel pump, a receipt from dealer where they replaced 1 injectors o ring. I figure the o rings where bad. I replaced all of them.
1 injector was pretty bad the o ring was kinda tore up and disfigured, and 1 had new o rings. Why they would just replace 1 I'll never know. Well the problem still exists, it starts fine sounds good. It will idle 20-30 minutes then get sluggish if I give it any fuel. It's a lot better than before I can floor it and it will rev up and after a few revs it gets better again. If I unplug the icp the idle will go up and down and almost die. Trying to start warm it will just barely run at 4-500 rpm then quit unless I can get it to rev. Once it revs up it seems ok. Does that sound like a hpop problem or am I even on. The right path?
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I have a 2000 Toyota Sienna. At first I noticed that the dashboard light showing the left turn signal was on would light up when I put on the headlights. A few days later, I discovered that the left turn signal stops working when I apply the break. Also, when I'm using cruise control and use my left turn signal, the cruise control stops maintaining speed.
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