Golf/GTI VI :: RPM And Speedo Needles Bounce While Maintaining A Constant Speed
Oct 10, 2014
2012 GTI 6 Speed
Both needles bounce while maintaining a constant speed, example going 80mph in 6th, RPM moves +/-100ish RPM and speed is 1-2 MPH. The car doesn't actually move, just the gauges. Engine doesn't sound like its miss firing MPG was 30 going 80 so it seems to run just fine. Going through the gears playing around its smooth and normal.
I'm on a road trip so very limited on anything to diagnose, just looking for some insight.
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I went to get in car today, and the driver screen, needles, and dash lighting was flicking or pulsing.. like a wave rolling through the lcd. its got 1k miles on it, jsw tdi.
i did open the trunk, without unlocking from fob, just trunk button, then it auto locked again when i shut it. have never done that before, so maybe this causes it? i let it sit awhile, and all back to normal.
on a side note, got my 20% tint on all around today and looking good need a drop then wheels.
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I am having an issue with my speedo and the fuel gauge on my 2002.5 24v vr6. First it started with a speedo that would bounce and dance around. it went away then came back and so on for awhile. Then i notice the fuel gauge would go up or down and would flash that i need to fill as I would go around turns. Also the odometer doesnt work either. I know that the vss could be the cause.
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98 accord v6, when we first got it about a year ago the temp gauge was a little erratic. Sometimes it would stay all the way down (cold) after driving for awhile. You can take your finger and thump the plastic and it would jump up to normal. At first it was only temp, but now all gauges including gas level are not working. Odometer still works right but the speedo goes to about 45 and stays there. Thumping still makes the needles bounce around.
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I have an '01 Blazer that's had a strange vibration for some time now. Here are the particulars:
It's a low frequency rumbling It happens only between 45 and 60 mph It tends to come and go It usually starts after about 5 minutes of driving first thing in the day It generally goes away after awhile and may not happen the rest of the day It happens only when I'm accelerating or maintaining speed on an incline It happens when it's hot, cold, wet or dry
What I've done lately: replaced all the brake pads replaced one rear rotor and caliper slide pins (one pin was frozen and the rotor was badly worn Checked the U-joints, which are sound
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2012 6.7l CC SB SRW 4x4.
Truck has 9700 miles on it, bought it in December of 2012. Twice in the last week, when at about 60 mph on a flat road, maintaining speed with virtually no wind, there is a slow, gradual shudder from the rear wheels. Both times the truck has been on cruise control and if I add power, the truck does not accelerate and the shudder continues to increase. If pull power either by brake or canceling cruise, it stops and the truck performs as expected.
I have yet to have the time to reproduce this. My only hope is if the dealer is already aware. I plan on trying to reproduce it at some point with hopes of having something tangible for the dealer.
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I was driving home from school last week and noticed my cruise control would stay set for 5 minutes or so, then slowly (over several minutes) lose speed. I've noticed it happen before, but very infrequently and usually if I stopped to use the restroom, when I started the truck back up it was fine. This time it continued to happen.
As I was getting nearer to home, I noticed that while I had the cruise set, I would hear a high squeaking noise in the dash almost dead center under the radio. Then , when I would tap the brakes, there would be a rattle. This would only happen with the cruise set.
Noise in dash - YouTube
Not sure how well the squeak can be heard, but the rattle is definitely audible. What the cause might be? Electrical, mechanical, are the cruise and the noise even related? Other than that, the truck seems to be running alright.
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I have noticed over the past month that as I am maintaining speed, I will have a vibration or shutter. It sounds and feels like you are running over the cuts in the road on the shoulder. I can accelerate and make it stop but as soon as I want to maintain speed it will happen again. It does not feel like there is anything going on in the transmission. I have searched the forums and have found some similar problems but not exactly. Where should I look first? U-Joint, Drivesahft?
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I have a 2000 Toyota Sienna. At first I noticed that the dashboard light showing the left turn signal was on would light up when I put on the headlights. A few days later, I discovered that the left turn signal stops working when I apply the break. Also, when I'm using cruise control and use my left turn signal, the cruise control stops maintaining speed.
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New here. I have a 2001 F150 which i love but lately has been an issue. I started it up a few weeks ago after it set over night. i threw it in to reverse and notice it hesitating while reversing and it has small trouble accelerating but does buck and jerk while trying to maintain speed. So I took it to my well trusted mechanic and he ran compression test and ran the highly prolific OTC scanner on it and nothing. I have changed my mass flow sensor and I dont show any misfires or any codes pending. I did replace a busted catalytic convertor a couple months back. Im running out of places to turn.
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Now that I use my truck as a daily driver I am noticing a vibration under acceleration at 30-35 and constant vibration at 45-50 accelerating or maintaining speed. I have replaced all three u-joints as well as new ribbed highway tires all around and still have the vibration. It seems worse in OD. I have done a little research and am either going to shim center support/machine a new one or have a one piece shaft made and need info on how to successfully gotten rid of this vibe on their truck mainly the amount of shimming required and the final driveline angle. It seems that most posts regarding this issue lean towards the fact that the 45-50mph vibe is normal for my year super duty and that's probably right but I want to remedy problem not "live with it!" (10 mile 45mph stretch to work @ 4AM, vibe bugs the heck out of me!)
Truck is 2000 f250 SC 2wd 4r100 3.73 gear currently 51000 miles.
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I have an '08 Accord Cpe with a V6 and 5-speed auto. transmission. When driving on a level stretch of road trying to hold the speed at 40mph the engine speed will bounce up and down between 1400 and 1700 RPM. The engine is warm. The transmission feels like it is trying to up-shift and make the car go faster thus nearly impossible to hold the speed at 40mph. If I put the transmission in 3rd gear so it can't shift up there isn't this problem. I have also noticed a lugging or hesitating when trying to accelerate when the engine is cold. I wonder if these are related issues?
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I have a 1995 3000gt sl. When im on the freeway running at 80 mph and maintaining that speed it starts to overheat.I can reduce my speed and it starts to cool down I can also turn heater on high and that cools it down I cant hit the exit ramp and by the time I get stopped at the end of ramp its cooled back down.I can start it and sit with it running and it never gets hot.If I stay below 55 I never have any overheating its only when I increase and maintain 75 or faster I have a problem. Also when it was hot outside I turned my air on max cool one day and it got hot real fast.So to fix that I just didn't run my air any more. then a few months went by and this started to happen.50mph and slower its fine.But at freeway speed limit it starts running hot. Only with increased speed to the engine does it start getting hot.
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97 ranger 2.3l 5spd ... I keep getting p0500 code. the speedometer and odometer work fine. I understand they get they're reading from the OSS on the transmission. Now I also have the vss in the axle housing which I believe is what gives the ultimate speed reading to the pcm that way there is no need to ever adjust for axle ratio.
When using the torque app with my obd reader my OBD MPH guage does nothing until I get to about 55 then it bounces around randomly between 20 and 55 and once I hit 60 mph it reads correctly. I have tried 3 different vss sensors checked wire continuity from sensor to firewall examined the teeth/sprocket that gives the vss it's reading and it all checks out...
My questions are:
- What volts or ohms are supposed to come out of the plug end so I can test if the signal to the sensor is working
- Looking for wiring schematics for this sensor to pcm...my schematic only has the oss.
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I tried the test mode (hold trip reset and turn ignition to run) this revealed that the needle for the speedometer does sweep from zero to max and back, could it still be the cluster? Is there something I am missing? FWIW the odometer lights up but does not work and all other gauges seem to be functioning correctly.
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On highway, at higher speeds (50-70), I notice that the vehicle's acceleration will pause and the rpms will bounce a bit. Best description I can give is that it feels as if someone were constantly pinching and releasing the gas line. Short revvv...revvv...revvv. The vehicle doesn't lose power. I get where I am going. And it only occurs up at these higher speeds.
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I have a mk4 jetta that I bought a couple of months ago it is a 1.8T 5speed and the last 2 days of driving it 3rd and 4th gear maintain in place like they should but when I try to give it gas the rpms skyrocket and the car does not move, it is like as if it is in neutral while still in gear....What the problem is?
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I coded the cluster to have the needles staging when you turn on the car but noticed that they don't always do it... Why?
Golf Comfortline 1.8T
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How do I get my gauge needles to run a cycle on start up? It is even possible?
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Hearing a clicking noise as the needles sleep back after their start up dance. Dealer claiming it is normal ..
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Hearing a definite (and quite annoying) clicking sound as the needles sweep back from the start up. Dealer says it is normal. How difficult is it to turn it off?
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