I have a 2001 f150 and when i go around 55 mph it starts to jerk/shake. and sometimes it randomly idles high like the rpm will go up a bit and go down. I also noticed the exhaust manifolds leak sometimes and I don't know if that's what is making it shake. from what i was told it could be the coil packs, spark plugs, or fuel filter but my check engine light is not on!
View 7 RepliesMy trucks been doing something weird. When accelerating around 45-55 mph, a couple seconds after it shifts to 3rd, it does a weird type off shake/shudder. Feels like I hit a small bump in the road. Also when coming out of a cruise to accelerate, it will Make a very violent clunk and then speed up. I'm thinking it's a problem with my torque converter but my mechanic says transmission and my buddy says rear end lol. I dropped the pan and there was some shavings but nothing huge and it was the first time it was ever dropped. After 90k miles.
View 14 Replies2003 F150 XLT 7700 4x4 5.4 Triton. While accelerating normally from a stop the transmission? shifts into 2nd with a heavy jerk. All other gears normal. It doesn't do this under hard acceleration or under very gentle and slow throttle application. Is this a COP issue, a transmission issue or just a driving style thing?
View 7 RepliesI purchased a 2003 F-150 Screw a few months back. Within a week I noticed a noise that sounded like a bad ujoint. To it to a shop and they confirmed it. They told me they replaced both. I only drive about 4 miles to work around 40 mph. Friday I had to go out of town and this was the trucks 1st road trip. I noticed that around 55 the truck feels fine. At 65 there is a shake / vibration. At 75 it is very noticeable. At 1st I though front end, but after a few hour I noticed the feeling can be felt in the seat of my pants type of thing. Or my foot on the kicker panel. Truck has 27K on it.
View 4 RepliesNew here. I have a 2001 F150 which i love but lately has been an issue. I started it up a few weeks ago after it set over night. i threw it in to reverse and notice it hesitating while reversing and it has small trouble accelerating but does buck and jerk while trying to maintain speed. So I took it to my well trusted mechanic and he ran compression test and ran the highly prolific OTC scanner on it and nothing. I have changed my mass flow sensor and I dont show any misfires or any codes pending. I did replace a busted catalytic convertor a couple months back. Im running out of places to turn.
View 6 RepliesMy 02 F150 4x4 at times gets a shake through the steering when hitting road cracks, pothole fills, etc. Would installing a steering damper system work or am I missing something to check in the front end. Ball joints are good, all steering linkage good, new shocks all around, control arm bushings look good and don't seem to shift when prying with a bar. Also changed all sway bar bushings and links. Maybe the control arms just have to be changed with 103,000 miles on it even if they appear OK? What about using an aftermarket steering damper on a stock F150? My long gone 82 GMC 4x4 had one from factory but it was also a solid axle setup.
View 4 RepliesI bought a 1997 f150 with 160l miles on it. It is a 4x4 with the 5.4 v automatic. While I'm drive and in 4th and 5th gear, the tranny shakes the whole truck and then shifts hard! I check the fluid and it's still good and red but looks like there is to much. I'm planning on removing some and adding some lucus additive in it. What could cause this???
View 8 RepliesI have a 2003 ranger with 2.3. I drive it daily but it has started to sputter and jerk. The truck has 94000 on it and I bought it new. It sat for over a year but has been driven every day for the last year. It started a couple months ago but would just do it for a second, now I cant drive it on the highway. I think it might be injectors but how do I know for sure?
View 12 Replies1997 Chevrolet Silverado 4x4 z71 transmission problems. 5 months ago I had it serviced and A/B shift solenoids changed along with filter and fluid. Now check engine is back on with P1860 code truck also has started shifting more firmly into second and at 65mph it gives a hard jerk.
View 8 RepliesThis mazda is relatively quiet when on park and neutral and can feel more shake (feel from steering) while shifting to drive mode while idle/before redlight. it can feel more shake while on speed over 70 mph. it feel ok on speed lower than 70 mph. Just wonder if the engine/trans mount is the root cause. The trans is on drive side and engine is on passenger side. engine inside mount has been replaced and does not solve the problem much.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2003 Ranger 4x4 with the 5speed automatic. It has 215,000 miles on it and I don't drive it regularly anymore. Lately, I've noticed that it will shake after start up for 10-30 seconds. This only happens after it has sit for a few days or a week. After it warms up, I can drive it and stop and start it again and it has works as usual.
Is there some way the convertor is leaking out fluid and it shakes until the convertor is full again? Or is something else the problem. I've changed the fluid two or three times during the life of the vehicle.
I have a early 99 7.3l that seem to cut out and shudder while accelerating at low rpm's below 2000 once I am above 2000 rpm it seems to go away similar to a dirty carburetor thinking injector problem...
View 2 RepliesI recently bought an 03 F-250 6.0 Lariat crew cab FX4. It has an EGR delete, ARP studs, and the updated oil cooler. It has 138,xxx on the clock.
Randomly, only when it is at normal operating temperature it will have a slight shake to it at idle. when i try to take off from this shaky idle it feels like it is "missing" i guess you could say. it clears up about 1/8 a mile down the road every time. And i will go ahead and say this does not happen everytime it idles. Only maybe once or twice in a 30 minute trip.
What might be going on? I have not added a coolant filter yet, and it does not have synthetic oil in yet either (just bought it) I plan to use full synthetic Rotella 5w40 very soon. I think this might be a stiction problem? but i read it is uncommon to have stiction when warmed up. I do not have anything yet to pull codes or read the FICM yet. both batteries are good.
Its going into overdrive to early causing it to shake at around 40mph but when I get to 50mph it go away or under 35mph it not there either what could that be??? Just got torque converter and trans done and checked it wasn't that.
View 4 RepliesI recently, within last 2 weeks, started to have what feels like a "jerk" when my automatic Durango shifts. The "jerk" occurs when the car is cold (sporadic) and after the car is hot. When the car is hot it's a lot more noticeable and frequent. The durango has over 120K miles and the last transmission fluid flush it had, and the only one done, was about 99K.
I took it to my mechanic, he didn't do the transmission flush, and after a whole day of tests and diagnostics he says that the car has all the right timings and the only thing he could recommend is a transmission flush. He thinks the viscosity or correct viscosity could be causing this. My mechanic is fair and one of the better ones I've dealt with. In fact me didn't charge me at all for the work done.
I have a 03 jetta 1.8t and for as long as i can remember my rpms would always fluctuate whenever ever i was idling and then there would be sometimes where i would be accelerating and i would have no power and then all of a sudden it would kick in kinda jerky like. About a week ago tho for some reason my car would just all of a sudden die when i would come to a complete stop and it did it about 5 times that day but when it died it would start right back up fine. I've been having this problem for quit awhile.
I have gotten told maybe coilpacks, n75 valve, o2 sensor, MAF i ended up buying a can of sensor cleaner and cleaned out sensor but that doesn't look like it did the trick. i have also noticed when i drive her pretty hard sometimes the rpms will fluctuate a lot more frequently than normal there also times where when ever i start in 1st gear it doesn't feel like i have all the power have than usual and I've noticed it only feel like that in 1st and second gear sometimes.
I have an 03 vw Jetta 1.8t with around 100,000 miles and I recently ran into a problem with the car jolting, or slipping when I get on it hard. And also when I'm sitting at a stop light it will jerk forward like it wants to go. I've tried a few things like cv axels and some other things but I'm just hoping it's not the tranny.
View 9 RepliesHere is my new to me 03 Jetta 1.8T Wagon. This all started yesterday driving down the highway at about 65, I drove over a bump and there was what felt like a jerk. I lost the radio right away and when stepping on the accelerator it didn't seem to go over 3500rpm. I got a few miles into town taking it easy and it died as I pulled up to a stop sign. I was able to get a jump and get it running again.
This was the first jump of the day...When we popped the hood to jump it I noticed that the red wire coming off the positive battery terminal to the power block was frayed and corroded, so I cut the bad end off and stripped the wire to get a good connection. Left the car on a battery tender just to make sure the battery was charged and came back after a few hours and it started right up. Problem solved right?! Wrong...
Probably 10 miles down the road the same thing happens, a jerk or clunk sound, lost power and the call stalled out. Called family that was close by and tried to jump it again 'cause that worked the first time... Got a few miles down the road and it happened again!
Here's a picture of the gauge cluster and all the lights that lit up.
Long story short the car had basically no lights, power, for the windows/radio/turn signals/headlights etc... but was putting along at about 5 mph. I was out in the country and about 5 miles from home so I was just focused on getting it in my garage. It died again and a jump wouldn't even get it going the next time. I did some reading on my phone and it seems like the power block can be problematic, I took a picture of that because there is some obvious melted plastic on the large black wire.
I have a friend with a vag com, and he was able to come out and read the faults and then clear them and the car started right up just fine off a jump pack. We did get it home, but today I'm getting the same issues. I am trying to trace that black wire to its origin to see if there is corrosion or a loose connection there but I have no clue where else to start....
I start a new job on the 21st of July and this was meant to be my commuter as my truck gets terrible mileage...
Three mechanics have given us three different opinions about what is wrong with our 2003 Nissan Sentra. I'd like to hear from the Car Talk community.The problem started when our car began to shake when we drove above 40 miles per hour. We got the radiator replaced. However, the car still would not always start. We took it to the Nissan dealership. The mechanic there said it needed a new fuel pump.
We took it to mechanic #2 for a lower-cost fuel pump replacement. However, the car has started every time for them. So they cannot be confident that there is something wrong with the fuel pump. The fuel pressure does drop off after turning the key off. This mechanic said our main problem is that there is antifreeze in cylinders No. 2 and 3 of the engine (likely from when our radiator broke). There is either a crack in the cylinders or the head gasket has failed. They are estimating $1,200 to $1,600 to fix this. They said if we don't take care of this, the antifreeze will continue to circulate and damage the engine further.
The Nissan dealership says if there were antifreeze in the engine, the check engine light would have come on. Also, they say they would have noticed if there were antifreeze in the cylinders. Their opinion is the fuel pump is only thing that needs to be fixed.
We then called mechanic #3 to get another opinion. This mechanic specializes in Hondas/Toyotas/Nissans. He hasn't looked at the car yet, but he thinks that the motor could be damaged since the car was shaking when the radiator broke. He says he thinks it is unlikely that the fuel pump needs replacing, and he thinks the check engine light would not detect the antifreeze in the engine.
Fuel pump, antifreeze in cylinders, or motor? Or all three? What do you think?The car has about 85,000 miles on it.
I have a 2003 Toyota Camry with 45,000 miles, and my Camry engine is starting to shake when I put it in drive. My "Check Engine" light starts to flash. I haven't had any other problems, so I was surprised when this started to happen.
View 4 Repliesi have a 03sc430 with 144,000 on the clock and the rear of the car shakes around 60-70 mph ive had all tires road forced balanced nothing wrong with tires rides fine until i get to 60 mph i heard a click noise once when the car was parked in a driveway on an angle.
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