1997 Ford F-150 4X4 ignition Actuator Rod. Looking for instructions on how to replace a broken Actuator Rod? I know the rod is broken because the upper part moves and the lower part connected to the switch does not move.
View 4 RepliesWhenever my A/C is turned on, it blows nice cold air. As long as the blower is on "1", "2", and sometimes ", it blows cold air. If I turn it to "4" I can hear a small "thud" behind the dash. It sounds like the blend door is shutting. All my functions work like they should. I think the actuator is goin out and isn't pushing the door all the way closed, and when I turn it to "4" it pushes it te other way.
View 5 RepliesI have a 2003 F150 supercrew 4x4 and I'm on my 3rd - 4wd vacuum actuator this winter so far. Somehow water is getting into the actuator itself mounted on the axle and then when it gets cold enough it freezes up and won't work until the heat from the engine thaws it out and then the 4x4 will engage.
Every time I've changed it I have found the part to have about a quarter cup of water in it. and can't figure out where the water may be entering these things. There also was no moisture in the vacuum lines when I blew them out.
I've been using the Dorman brand replacements from O'Reilly, they have a lifetime quarantee but I'm sick of swapping them out every month...
So I tried to replace my thermostat and housing and the housing bolt snapped off. Ok so I tried to extract that bolt off and the extractor bolt snapped off inside. I am guessing it might just be easiest to replace the water pump now? I am pretty much at the end of my mechanical rope which is short anyhow.
View 6 RepliesI have the P1518 code for Intake Manifold Runner Control. I can not seem to find if have the actuator itself only the electronic control which, I take connects to the actuator. Is the electronic portion the only thing that needs to be changed and clean the actuator butterfly with the manifold off, or does the actuator need to be found and replaced?
View 3 RepliesBeside the normal tools you will need a mirror, flashlight, very long needlenose pliers, and tin snips. There are 2 screws holding the driver door panel on, one is in the courtesy light at the bottom and the other is inside the switch compartment. You must also twist the light socket out, pop the cover off above the switches, pry the switch pod up at the FRONT and slide forward, and unplug the switches.
Now pull straight up on the panel and remove it after taking the light out at the bottom;
Tape the membrane up out of your way
You will need mirrors like these and very long needlenose.
Remove all the yellow plastic screws holding this aqua connector and it's wires and tuck it into the corner of the door.
Now you have a clear view of the actuator;
Try to pop this yellow plastic clip loose with your fingers and if not drill a hole above the oval hole and use a screwdriver;
Take the 3 screws out at the latch;
Push the plastic screws in holding the black cable and look through the oval hole to locate the green clip holding the rod to the door latch handle.
Cut the oval hole bigger so you can access the next steps;
Rotate the whole unit around until you can pop the green clip loose with a screwdriver by prying or pulling on the small side of the green clip and then locate the rod next to it (not mentioned in other posts), and disconnect it by using your very long needle nose to squeeze one side and a long screwdriver to pry the rod out;
Rotate the entire unit out around the window track, remove the wire harness, unplug the two other harnesses, and insert screwdriver under actuator before sliding it off.
Now you are ready to do the tin foil fix or just replace the actuator.
I purchased a 6.7 Diesel 2014 F250 Super Duty Crew Cab about 3 months ago. Yesterday I started my truck using the remote starter from inside my house. Seconds after I heard a loud noise. Looked outside, saw nothing and thought nothing of it till I went to open my door and realized that the driver door window shattered! I live in a quiet area, it wasn't a rock thrown at my truck or anything like that, it just Blew!!!!
I'm wondering if the truck might have some sort of pressure or torque if you wish on that window to make it just pop! My mirrors were folded in however I can't see that playing a role......
I'm looking to replace my drivers side door lock actuator. Looking for detailed photos explaining the process?
View 16 RepliesWent to start 'er up, key spun forwards, power came on but no start, no click, nada. Turn key back and power stayed on, back forward and no resistance whatsoever power stayed on. Took screwdriver, jumped starter relay and viola away we go. Get home, get cylinder out of hole and the tip is broken off down in the column. BTW, had to disconnect batteries to shut it off. I drilled hole in the tip still in the column, insert screw and no come out. Must need to be turned somehow first I'm thinking.
View 14 RepliesI got a new to me 1998 F150 a week or so ago but it got parked quickly when I realize the gas tank strap was broken. I took it to a dealer today and they replaced the strap.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2007 Prius and recently both my driver side front door and driver side rear door lock actuator failed. I browsed and found part number to replace the driver side front door lock assembly. I wasn't very confident in my ability to replace the assembly, but I decided to give it a shot, so I ordered the part. The part arrived today and my wife and I just finished successfully replacing the assembly. It was a little challenging, but now that we know how to do it we could probably do it again in half the time.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2001 f350 this morning I went to start the truck the key turn but I heard a click sound all the lights and everything came on but the truck won't start just silence I could turn the key back in the off position and put the key out but the truck is still on radios on it's like the truck is still in the run position or on position there is a lot of play between off and run but like I said the truck will not start, could be not sure if it's the ignition switch or actuator rod..
View 2 RepliesSo Iv a couple weeks ago I bought a 1998 f150 and today I was gonna do the fuel filter and saw the line goin to the engine was broken and they put a rubber hose in line. The hose is only about 6inchs and I work at ford so I got the price on the whole fuel line running up to the engine. I was just wondering if any repairs that work for metal fuel lines.
View 4 RepliesSo I went to the movies the other night and come back out to see that my truck was broken into. Nothing was taken, so what were they doing? Any ways they broke the keyhole on the drivers side. It has been pushed all the way into the door. Assuming I have to replace this, how much or what will be involved to do so?
View 6 RepliesI have a broken headlight adjuster assembly, it's a steel bolt with a Plastic nut on it, the Star piece behind the nut is broken. What is the source for this part ?? A Ford part number????
View 4 RepliesWe have a 1997 f150 with the 4.6 in it originally. The 4.6 was pulled and a 2001 5.4 engine was swapped. I was called to see why it could not run. I did some preliminary tests and suspected the PATS system.
I cannot get the fuel pump to run by jumping the relay and I am assuming all the wiring is proper from the swap.
The 2001 5.4 engine ecu has been transferred over. I run the obd tests and get a bunch of codes but none point to the pats system. The theft light does not prove out or does not flash. I can get it to turn on via my obd scan tool. I have an elm tool.
I do know the 1997 cluster was not changed. The ignition from the 2001 was swapped and have only 1 matching key with it.
When I jumped the fuel pump relay, I produced the code p0232 which tells me the computer saw current in the pump circuit when the PCM has it disabled. Should a swap of this kind also include the pats components ? I also cannot get the fuel pump to run by jumping the relay.
I have the codes :
P01703
P0232
P01747
P0750
P0755
p1451
P1409
P1633
I own a 2000 F150 4.2L (I think off the top of my head) v6 XL model. For the past couple of years I've had an issue with overheating. So far I've had the following replaced:
Radiator
Thermostat
Radiator Cap
Water Pump
The intake manifold has been repaired, that was the first item to have some work done to it. The shop I took it to said the coolant hose that runs into the manifold was corroded at the entrance to the manifold. They stated there was no way to actually replace the hose, but they gave me two options:
1. replace the entire manifold or
2. cap the existing entrance port, drill a hole into the manifold next to the port, and run a new hose.
I chose the cheaper option which I suspect is part of the problem. Now to the problem.
I can drive around town all day long no problems even in 100+ degree Oklahoma summer heat. I left it idling on the side of a street for 2 hours during summer and no problems. The moment I get the truck to 55mph it starts to overheat. Not just overheat, but peg completely out in just over a mile after hitting 55mph.
Once I drop the truck down to about 40mph the temp starts to lower, but will fluctuate between normal and 3/4 to max.
What I need to look at? I've been told head gaskets, but there's no leaks and no water in the oil. I've been told to replace the engine, which if I could afford that I could afford a down payment on a new truck. It's a bit frustrating at best.
I have a 1999 ford f150 4.6 engine and it has an exhaust leak but wondering what is the procedure to remove a broken bolt and the rest of the bolts on the manifold
View 2 RepliesI noticed a few weeks ago when I was in the bed of my truck that the black plastic trim piece around the rear window appears to be broken. it's on the left side near the top. when I look down there it looks like the brackets are broken on one side. I've never noticed any water leak back there. I'd like to definitely get it fixed, but I don't think the dealer would have a listing for it anymore if it's not crazy expensive. I looked at LMC truck and there doesn't seem to be what I need on there. It's a 2002 F150 Lariat Supercrew non-sliding window.
View 7 RepliesI accidentally broke the control lever where the cruize control attaches. I've looked all over but I can't find the lever. Where I could buy just the lever? New throttle body is more than I want to spend.
View 1 RepliesIs it suggested for transmission cooler to replace the small stock one? I'm going to get towing stuff soon and just want to make sure I'm not smoking my trans. There's a few I've seen....
View 1 Replies