Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: Oily Behind The Freeze Plugs
Aug 6, 2016
So I am working on my 5.4 I pulled and discovered that is is very oily behind the freeze plugs. The motor is on a stand and has been upside down a few times. There was still a little oil in it as I can see a decent puddle under it where I didn't tighten the drain plug entirely. Why would there be oil built up there? I have the two from the back of the heads out and the two on either side closest to the rear of the block. What kind of issue am I looking at? Here is the build thread that I am doing about the truck and this motor.
DH-Rear of Driver Head
PH-Rear of Passenger Head
PRBS-Passenger Rear Block Side
PMBS-Passenger Middle Block Side
DRBS-Driver Rear Block Side
DMBS-Driver Middle Block Side
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Mine has a 4.0 V6, the freeze plugs are leaking coolant, the guy at the shop said it will require pulling the engine to replace them. Is there an easy ( less expensive ) fix ? I was told I could use block sealer, is that an option? She has appox.160,000 miles...
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M y 90 aero 3.0 heads are leaking front and back freeze plugs. I think back ones are pretty accessible from inside. How hard to change it . I changed block plugs. What size are head plugs?.
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I have a 2002 f250 super duty 4 dr w/ full lenth bed. has v10. had oil cooler problem, motor oil in coolant. fixed that, then rad started leeking, replaced that. now blowing freeze plugs on block. replaced i on drivers side rear, now popped one on pass side. whats going on? i know oil pressure is more than water, did the oil cooler leak losen the freeze plugs? What size freeze plugs they are? no parts house around here knows.
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while trying to diagnose a check engine light. 2003 4.2 2WD Manual F-150. 135,000 miles.
Some background:
-I have changed the lower O2's fairly recently, but not the uppers
-Never changed MAF
-I checked for vacuum leaks in the last 18 months, none found
I pulled some freeze frame data after my hour long ride to work today, and this is what I have. Where I should go from here?? Truck seems to be running fine, but just "weak" when it comes to acceleration. There is smooth ideal and cruising. I am getting 20.2 mpg, mostly highway miles.
P0171
Fuelsys1 CL
Fuelsys2 --
Load Pct 87.5
ECT 188F
SHRTFT1 5.5%
LongFT1 28.9%
SHRTFT2 1.6%
LongFT2 28.1%
RPM 2115
VSS 50 mph
If there is other data you might need, I can pull it. I think I had a 0.01 lb/s reading on MAF when I did a separate test. That was likely at idle though.
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OK, well i have an old toyota pick up, One of the spark plugs ( the third cylinder) has some oily residue on it, indicating a problem with the piston. How bad could this be? Is it worth it to try and have fixed? I also am rebuilding my carb right now, so i am wondering if i is even worth continuing if the engine is messed up.
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Nissan altima gle (2000) and for the past 3 weeks it has not gone over 55. The car was running ok before but was idling rough. A mechanic replaced the intake manifold gasket, the MAF sensor and the fan sensor. I decided to change my spark plugs when I noticed the idling was getting worse. The spark plugs had oil on them and now a month after the new ones are burned (like ashy tip, black thread) and dripping oil again. I think is the oil not letting my car accelerate in the highway. I considered changing the valve gasket, cables and cap for the spark plug. A mechanic told me not to bother because the motor is a lost. Is he right?
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I've tried everything I can think of and it still runs sluggish.
1. Had dealer change plugs
2. Changed Cop's
3. Cleaned MAF sensor
The 5.4L has slight miss and doesn't respond well at all when trying to pass or going uphills.
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Yesterday I decided to tune up my 2003 5.4 for the 1st time at 82k miles. I replaced all 8 coils with MSD coils & motorcraft plugs. After doing so I went to turn over the ignition & got 1 single click, motor wouldn't even turn over. Battery is 3 months. Truck ran just fine prior to tune up other than the slight misfire I was starting to get.
When I was working on the passenger side I did disconnect the big bracket that had the multiple wire harness on the fire wall underneath the starter solenoid to gain access to the rear plug/coil. Where to start troubleshooting? I checked the fuses under the hood & dash but nothing looked blown.
On a side note I remember when I was putting everything away I tried to lock the truck with the Ford factory transmitter & it wouldn't lock?! I had to open the door & press the power lock button to lock the doors.
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When doing my last spark plug change I noticed that the electrical plugs to the fuel injectors seemed really loose. The plastic tabs on the harness plugs don't even lock onto the injector plug. Its actually amazing that they don't vibrate loose or stay electrically connected. The plugs are not cracked or damaged that I can see. Is this a problem? I feel that I should replace the plugs with something that has more of a positive "grip" to the FI plug....
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I have an 1999 f150 4.2l only 82,000 original miles.i have had truck since new .i just replaced the spark plugs for the first time.i used autolite plat. I also changed fuel filter the truck started to run like crap now shaking and sorta like missing.i pulled the plugs again rechecked the gp reinstalled them installed new wires still runs like crap.went out bought new motorcraft plat. plugs gapped at .054 still runs like crap..so i checked the gap on original plus that have been i the truck since new the gap on them are .074-.075. should i try and gapp the new ones to this the truck ran like a dream with the original plugs at this gap????
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I have a 2002 f150 with the 5.4. Its got a rough idle and a bit hesitant on acceleration. Im wanting to replace the coils and plugs but what brand of coils should I use?
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I'm driving a 97 Accord SE and it's suffering from a few issues that have me worried to say the least. For one, when I filled the radiator with water I noticed that it was cloudy/oily. Something was definitely in there with the water.
Two, I foolishly drove it thinking it would be fine. After 50 feet or so however problems started happening. I couldn't accelerate past 20mph. If I tried by putting my foot down on the gas nothing would happen but the RPMs going up. Each time I started the car I could go a little ways before pushing on the gas did nothing. Then I would have to restart the car in order to get anywhere with it.
Some background, I got my oil changed today after going about 1000 miles over when it should have been changed. Also, when it was scanned in the past the error code 0420 showed up. That has something to do with either the catalytic converter running rich or the O2 sensors above and below it might be broken.
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I've had DTC P0171 & P0174 (lean in bank 1 and lean in bank 2) for a few weeks now (check engine light cued me on it). Autozone scanned it for me. It's on a 2003 F250 SD 4x4 5.4L.
My first step was to clean the MAFS. Light came back on in about 30-40 miles. I then replaced the MAFS. 30-40 miles and the light came back on.
My first thought was disconnecting the battery wasn't resetting the comp and thats why the light was comming back on.
I went and picked up an Actron cheapy OBD II Scanner today at lunch. Cleared the codes with the scanner and drove back to work.
Checked the codes when I got back (no light on but was curious) and it shows P0171 & P0174 pending.
I've checked and the dipstick is seated properly. The hoses on the air intake appear to seated properly as well. The top hose is a pretty loose fit but it was seated all the way down. The top hose was oily. Not sure if this is normal or not. Could the loose fitting oily hose be the culprit?
Also, what is the lower hose? It comes off the back of the air intake and goes to the driver side valve cover. I know it's not the PCV hose as that is on the passenger side valve cover....right?
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My wife's 03 wagon has developed this weird problem. I keep the car pretty clean, always clean the inside windows a couple of times a month. We always defrost with the A/C on, no recirc.
We had the car in the body shop for some front end damage. Ever since then the front and side windows seem to have this oily residue on them. The stuff will not come off. Tried Invisible Glass, my usual cleaner. Really awful to see at night.
If the heater core was leaking under the carpet, could this cause it? or if the sunroof drains were clogged? I also changed the cabin filter with an aftermarket one from a vortex vendor.
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It seems that whenever it drops below 20 degrees, my windshield washer fluid lines freeze up on my '03, even though the blue stuff is proported to go down to minus 20 (the jug in my garage is still nice and liquid, even at these colder temps).
Is this a fixable problem? Should I switch over to a different type of juice? I don't remember this happening as frequently in previous years as it has this year.
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I am changing my own spark plugs for the first time. I have a spark plug wrench, dielectric grease, anti-seize compound etc.
I have a Haynes manual for my 2002 Toyota Corolla. The book was written before Irridium plugs were used. Should I tighten the spark plugs to the same torque specifications as regular plugs? The book says 158 inch pounds. How do I know I have tightened them to the right amount?
How do I avoid cross threading the spark plugs? What happens if you cross thread the spark plugs (assuming the car seems to be running fine)? Would I need a new engine or expensive repair when it is time to replace the spark plugs again?
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1997 Nissan altima se 5 speed... I changed valve cover gasket after the spark plugs where filled with oil Put to much silicon on gasket then fixed the problem it doesn't leak any more. But the car keeps burning out spark plugs it will start right up with new plugs but after running for about 5 minutes they burn out turn black.
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I have a 1999 Ford e350 7.3 powerstroke with 140000KMs on it.
The truck cranks really well but it just wont fire off, not even with a shot of starting fluid.
I recently changed all 8 glow plugs, fuel filter, fuel, oil and I keep it plugged in, my last mechanic told me the engine is toast and it cant be fixed.
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I replaced the glow plugs and gpr and the truck won't start. I'm also having to replace the water fuel separator. What is going on? 1999 F250 7.3l ....
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OK changing plugs and boots on 2003 f 350 5.4 (I have a bad miss and mis-fire code) First time messing with these things. When taking out the coil over plugs it looks like somebody put die-elect grease up underneath the boot at the top where the spring and the metal prong touches together. I thought I just needed only to grease the plug on the sides to keep the boot from sort of melting onto the plug. And some boots had maybe a drop of water in them is this common or any concern? Might be condensation and water does conduct elec, so not that concerned, but these C-O-P's are new to me and thought I'd ask. I've searched here and read posts about changing of the plugs and C-O-P's but don't remember any water boot coming up.
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